What are you guys towing?

[drvred]

How you like the wolf pup? I was looking at one this past week. The wifeand I went out looking a travel trailers and one of the models we both like was a wolf pup.

It's OK. I got the 16 HE because of the relatively low tongue weight (420), no slideout and a couch.
We didn't realize until afterwards that it had no drawers anywhere.
The dealership screwed up the setup on the E2 hitch, and it was terrifying the first tow, it was trying to lift the rear wheels on the truck.
But after straightening that out, it pulls like it's not there at 60-65.

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[TechnicallyReal]

It's OK. I got the 16 HE because of the relatively low tongue weight (420), no slideout and a couch.
We didn't realize until afterwards that it had no drawers anywhere.
The dealership screwed up the setup on the E2 hitch, and it was terrifying the first tow, it was trying to lift the rear wheels on the truck.
But after straightening that out, it pulls like it's not there at 60-65.

2 things that we all learn too late:

1. The dealer never seems to setup the hitch correctly.
2. Even if they do setup the hitch correctly, the trailer is either unrealistically empty or fully loaded with water. The truck is also usually unrealistically empty. The dealer's setup won't be how it should be for an actual trip with all of your passengers and stuff loaded up.

Always better once adjusted properly at home

 

[20XLRangerFraptor]

It's OK. I got the 16 HE because of the relatively low tongue weight (420), no slideout and a couch.
We didn't realize until afterwards that it had no drawers anywhere.
The dealership screwed up the setup on the E2 hitch, and it was terrifying the first tow, it was trying to lift the rear wheels on the truck.
But after straightening that out, it pulls like it's not there at 60-65.

good to hear. We are still looking. Might pick something up soon.

 

[ctechbob]

It's OK. I got the 16 HE because of the relatively low tongue weight (420), no slideout and a couch.
We didn't realize until afterwards that it had no drawers anywhere.
The dealership screwed up the setup on the E2 hitch, and it was terrifying the first tow, it was trying to lift the rear wheels on the truck.
But after straightening that out, it pulls like it's not there at 60-65.

Yep, I would say that is pretty common with dealer setups. Mine was massively overdistributed. Ended up pulling a washer out and adjusting the brackets.

I can't tell from the picture, does yours have the little 50 Watt solar package?

 

[drvred]

Yep, I would say that is pretty common with dealer setups. Mine was massively overdistributed. Ended up pulling a washer out and adjusting the brackets.

I can't tell from the picture, does yours have the little 50 Watt solar package?

Yes it does, it keep the battery topped off at home.
I pulled 2 washers, and evened up the brackets.

 

[ctechbob]

Yes it does, it keep the battery topped off at home.
I pulled 2 washers, and evened up the brackets.

You might want to check the wiring of it. There is a good chance it is wired wrong if it uses the Waaree controller. Mine was and several others have been as well.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f218/solar-overcharging-248075.html

Last couple posts in that thread are mine.

 

[drvred]

You might want to check the wiring of it. There is a good chance it is wired wrong if it uses the Waaree controller. Mine was and several others have been as well.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f218/solar-overcharging-248075.html

Last couple posts in that thread are mine.

I am showing 13.1 ish in the afternoon on solar.

 

[ctechbob]

I am showing 13.1 ish in the afternoon on solar.

Is that with anything on though? If the fridge is running or there is any other draw it will keep the voltage down enough that it won't overcharge.

 

[EJH]

Yep, I would say that is pretty common with dealer setups. Mine was massively overdistributed. Ended up pulling a washer out and adjusting the brackets.

I can't tell from the picture, does yours have the little 50 Watt solar package?

+1
My RV dealer over distributed my E2 hitch also, along with setting it way nose high. I removed a washer and dropped the hitch two holes on the shank. Not sure how most dealers can be so crap at setting up a WDH as they should do it enough...

 

[ProtonDecay]

As most of you probably know, you can stop at one of those CAT Scale setups at many interstate truck stops and get a fairly accurate weight for up to three axles. For my single axle trailer, that means front of truck, rear of truck and trailer. The first weigh costs about $12.

Once you have that you can disconnect the WDH bars and weigh again for $3 (reweigh fee). And if you want to be complete, you can then park the trailer and just weigh the truck (for another $3)

From there you can quickly figure out (with more reweighs to be sure) the exact amount of tension to put on the WDH bars for optimal towing. The WDH vendor (mine is Equal-i-zer) provides this info.

On another note, I have found a good TPMS to be invaluable. I am using this one:

https://www.etrailer.com/TPMS-Senso...gfgMULyCej2cZZC15m8ThH9rCNKYOn7hoCVhQQAvD_BwE

Plus two additional sensors for the trailer tires. In addition to pressure, the sensors also measure the temperature at the sensor. This save my bacon when we were coming down a long steep grade (108 from the summit down to Dardanelle in CA). Luckily, the TPMS threw an overtemp on the front tires before we lost our brakes! Turns out what I "thought" was enough trailer brake was not nearly enough, and the truck was doing too much of the work. We pulled over to let things cool down (by the time the interior of the tires had gotten to 150 degrees the rotors were well over the 600 degrees F that DOT 3 is rated for. One rotor measured 850 degrees F. Yiikes!)

Anyway, long story short, if you have a big enough trailer to need a WDH you might also benefit from a TPMS.

 

[ProtonDecay]

As most of you probably know, you can stop at one of those CAT Scale setups at many interstate truck stops and get a fairly accurate weight for up to three axles. For my single axle trailer, that means front of truck, rear of truck and trailer. The first weigh costs about $12.

Once you have that you can disconnect the WDH bars and weigh again for $3 (reweigh fee). And if you want to be complete, you can then park the trailer and just weigh the truck (for another $3)

From there you can quickly figure out (with more reweighs to be sure) the exact amount of tension to put on the WDH bars for optimal towing. The WDH vendor (mine is Equal-i-zer) provides this info.

On another note, I have found a good TPMS to be invaluable. I am using this one:

https://www.etrailer.com/TPMS-Sensor/JR-Products/372FX4K.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google | Shop - Low Volume - 1000&adgroupid=140227600687&campaignid=10274415741&creative=597205810020&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9032152&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=CjwKCAjwt7SWBhAnEiwAx8ZLagQYc443T45xWhh0I734ZQgfgMULyCej2cZZC15m8ThH9rCNKYOn7hoCVhQQAvD_BwE

Plus two additional sensors for the trailer tires. In addition to pressure, the sensors also measure the temperature at the sensor. This save my bacon when we were coming down a long steep grade (108 from the summit down to Dardanelle in CA). Luckily, the TPMS threw an overtemp on the front tires before we lost our brakes! Turns out what I "thought" was enough trailer brake was not nearly enough, and the truck was doing too much of the work. We pulled over to let things cool down (by the time the interior of the tires had gotten to 150 degrees the rotors were well over the 600 degrees F that DOT 3 is rated for. One rotor measured 850 degrees F. Yiikes!)

Anyway, long story short, if you have a big enough trailer to need a WDH you might also benefit from a TPMS.

Here are two screen shots of the TPMS display. The first is coming down from Ebbets Pass on Highway 4 - a steep grade with numerous 6% and a few 8% sections. The second is down at the bottom after things returned to normal. We keep an eye on this going down grades in order to know if we are going too fast or about to have a problem.

When the tires are showing 130 the rotors are much hotter, around 500 F. DOT 3 is good to 600 F and then starts to fade if the temps go higher. If the temps had gone much higher we would have pulled over and let things cool down, but this was near the bottom of the steep sections and we still had good brake performance.

You can see the graphic showing the temps is a little off - I haven't figured out how to get the app to let me have the truck and trailer on the same page with appropriate graphics, so am using a 3 axle trailer template. Other than that very happy with the Pressure Pro.

It isn't ideal, but absent getting sensors for the rotors themselves it serves as an adequate p

 

[JimG_AZ]

+1
My RV dealer over distributed my E2 hitch also, along with setting it way nose high. I removed a washer and dropped the hitch two holes on the shank. Not sure how most dealers can be so crap at setting up a WDH as they should do it enough...

Excellent question. This amazes me too. Most dealers seem to have no clue on the quality of weight distributing hitch setups. It amazes me how many people buy expensive trailers and have a garbage low end weight distributing hitch with the add-on friction sway. Also, this goes well beyond hitches. Most seem to have no clue on how to properly size a trailer to a tow vehicle. Most have no clue about vehicle GCWR and GVWR. No idea on tire capacity and axle capacity.

 

[TechnicallyReal]

I installed SumoSprings recently and wanted to share some pics. They're not the best pics since they're not from the exact same angle (the first one isn't even from the same trip) but the effects can be seen (especially if you can flip through them in slideshow).

1 is without SumoSprings. No weight-distribution (chains loose).
2 is after installing SumoSprings. No weight-distribution (chains loose).
3 is after installing SumoSprings. Weight-distribution is active (chains tight).

Unfortunately I don't have photo without SumoSprings and with weight-distribution at the same angle to compare.. but I do have this:

The difference that SumoSprings make when not using weight-distribution is quite substantial.

• Without SumoSprings the rear of the truck sags 1/4" lower than the front (I have eibach shocks in the rear so it would likely sag even more with the stock shocks).
• With SumoSprings the rear remains 1/2" higher than the front. Ride quality is much improved and there's less bouncing and floating in the rear.

The difference that SumoSprings make when combined with weight-distribution is less substantial but still very noticeable and appreciated.

• Without SumoSprings there is a lot of dependence and stress on the WD hitch/chains/bars/whatever to hold the rear of the truck up so that it's not sagging. I had my hitch set so that the rear was about 1" higher than the front, FYI.
• With SumoSprings the rear holds itself up and weight seems more easily distributed to the front of the truck. The rear ends up being 3/4" higher than WD without the SumoSprings, and it's much easier to hook and unhook the hitch/chains/bars/whatever.

This is with about ~650 lbs on the hitch.

Pretty happy with this upgrade. It wasn't easy though, since removing the stock bump stops turned into a huge project in itself (bolts snapped, bolt extractor broke off, etc etc).

 

[Grumpaw]

Excellent question. This amazes me too. Most dealers seem to have no clue on the quality of weight distributing hitch setups. It amazes me how many people buy expensive trailers and have a garbage low end weight distributing hitch with the add-on friction sway. Also, this goes well beyond hitches. Most seem to have no clue on how to properly size a trailer to a tow vehicle. Most have no clue about vehicle GCWR and GVWR. No idea on tire capacity and axle capacity.

Been dealing with rv dealers and their business's for around 50 years, so I am a bit familiar with the problems.
First and most important, maybe only a small % of rv salesman own, or have owned an rv. The majority are simply salesman with very basic knowledge of what they sell. Most are faced with showing and selling several brands, and within those brands, a lot of models. Very few take the time to learn even the most rudimentary facts about what they sell. They aren't knowledgeable about the systems, operation of, and safe handling of an rv.
I can walk into any rv on any dealer lot, and I probably know more about it, its build, its systems, than the salesman does.
They are simply there to get you into that "new rv smell". They know once you buy and your out the door, you and your new rv become the service's problem.
Most service techs do not own an rv...there simply mechanics and have to be versed on everything from a slide motor, to an ac, to a hole in the poopie tank. 90% of what they fix are the same systems you find in a home....but in a home, you have problems with a fridg, ac, plumbing, you call the appropriate repair service. RV tech has to do it all.
Not shifting blame away from the dealer, sales, repair...they are what they are.
Unless you get real lucky with your dealership, and have someone there who is versed in setting up a wd hitch, properly, your pretty much on your own.
Luckly, it's isn't rocket science...many info video's on setting up one properly. The most important need to know items are the trailers weight as it ready to go, and its tongue weight. With those you can buy the proper hitch, bars. Almost all wd hitches are set up the same way.

 

[Grumpaw]

I installed SumoSprings recently and wanted to share some pics. They're not the best pics since they're not from the exact same angle (the first one isn't even from the same trip) but the effects can be seen (especially if you can flip through them in slideshow).

1 is without SumoSprings. No weight-distribution (chains loose).
2 is after installing SumoSprings. No weight-distribution (chains loose).
3 is after installing SumoSprings. Weight-distribution is active (chains tight).

Unfortunately I don't have photo without SumoSprings and with weight-distribution at the same angle to compare.. but I do have this:

The difference that SumoSprings make when not using weight-distribution is quite substantial.

• Without SumoSprings the rear of the truck sags 1/4" lower than the front (I have eibach shocks in the rear so it would likely sag even more with the stock shocks).
• With SumoSprings the rear remains 1/2" higher than the front. Ride quality is much improved and there's less bouncing and floating in the rear.

The difference that SumoSprings make when combined with weight-distribution is less substantial but still very noticeable and appreciated.

• Without SumoSprings there is a lot of dependence and stress on the WD hitch/chains/bars/whatever to hold the rear of the truck up so that it's not sagging. I had my hitch set so that the rear was about 1" higher than the front, FYI.
• With SumoSprings the rear holds itself up and weight seems more easily distributed to the front of the truck. The rear ends up being 3/4" higher than WD without the SumoSprings, and it's much easier to hook and unhook the hitch/chains/bars/whatever.

This is with about ~650 lbs on the hitch.

Pretty happy with this upgrade. It wasn't easy though, since removing the stock bump stops turned into a huge project in itself (bolts snapped, bolt extractor broke off, etc etc).

Ryan...maybe I'm mis-reading your post. Are you saying that with the Sumo's , when hitched up, the rear is compressed to the point that there is no "spring" left and it's riding on the Sumo's ???

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