That's also a European trailer with REALLY wonky weights. They build their trailers to have very minimal tongue weight, sacrificing stability for the ability to tow with sedans and the like. You can spot them a mile away by where the wheels on the trailer are mounted. Towards the middle =...
Lol, total accident. The Grey Wolf just had the feature set I was after. Everyone and their brother builds this floorplan.
I certainly like it just a tiny bit more that it matches the truck.
This, and I don't care what anyone says about Australian standards being higher etc, I'm not putting that metal fabbed tank in a truck that is going to see lots of highway duty.
It isn't crash tested. FWIW I tried to look into what these 'higher standards' were and came up largely empty...
Traveling with a wife/girlfriend/dog will fix it too. There's no way one of the 3 of us doesn't have to stop for one reason or another after a whole tank of fuel (~2hrs-ish).
'I Need to pee' - Stop for gas
*whine* *WHINE* *BARK* - Stop for gas
'What's for lunch?' - Stop for gas
etc
Uhh, no.
Can't see any officer giving a toss about that..
I've never heard of an RV'er being pulled over for that in my 48 years.
My scale numbers are posted here if anyone is curious:
https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/grey-wolf-26djse-and-a-ranger.25650/#post-587978
I wouldn't go any longer than what I already tow, although very slightly heavier wouldn't be a problem. @Grumpaw is about the same length as me, but heavier.
My opinion is that we are both at the max length for the truck.
26DJSE - 26' box 29' tip to tail
No sense in paying the extra for the Bilstein 5100's if you're not going to mess with leveling. Per Bilstein the 4600's and 5100's are valved the same.
I vote Bilstein
This, fluid was way too high.
I had the same thing happen to me, I was slightly too high, towing back from Florida. Shift flare from 9-10, pulled up torque and the trans temps had spiked to 250*. Slowed way down, temps came down. Stopped for gas, fluid all over the place.
Checked the fluid...
It's all physics my man. Given two equally efficient drivetrains, which is pretty much the era we're living in (with direct injection, 8-10 speed transmissions, ULV oils, special bearing and piston coatings, etc) at the moment, there is next to no difference in fuel usage between a V8 and a...
I agree with @Big Blue and @Grumpaw, check the hitch setup.
The E2's require tension to be on them in order for the anti-sway to work. they rely on the friction of the spring bars on the L brackets. You didn't put any lube on there did you?
Make sure that you are transferring at least 1/2...
It is inside the shock accordion.
If you hit something hard enough to slam the upper ball joint into the fender liner, I suggest looking around for some other damage.
The bump stop should prevent it, but these trucks aren't desert runners, a hard enough impact will squash that bumpstop.
You can't fight physics. It is always going to take a certain amount of fuel to drag a payload at a certain speed and distance. Powertrains these days are getting to the point where they are almost equal in regards to efficiency, especially with 8-10 speed gearboxes.
A V8 isn't a miracle...
Never used one, always just replaced the fluid on a regular basis. I'd imagine it could be some decent input for making a decision on yes/no to replace.
I just do it during a tire rotation when I have the wheels off, doesn't take me too long.
Not sure what that has to do with this tuning discussion, other than Lots of those shops not only sold hard parts for emissions defeat but also tuning that was smokey to go along with it. It was only a matter of time before they got smacked down.
The problem with adding roll stiffness to the rear of your truck is that unloaded, the truck will tend more towards oversteer. Whether the stability control can catch and correct for that I don't know, but be aware that there is no free lunch with adding stiffness to the rear and nothing to the...
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VAL888460
Good price for a good fluid. At $6.49 it is competitive with Motorcraft.
Good time to stock up for the DIY'ers.
You'd want it to be nose-down if at all possible, but it isn't super critical with a single-axle trailer. Just take care to load the heavier items ahead of the axle and try not to put a ton of weight behind it.
As far as taking up slack in the chains, just twist them up a little and they will...