What ball mounts are you guys running?

Noseoil

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I use a 5 1/2" drop to pull our teardrop trailer. In all cases with a pick-up truck & trailer, the most important thing is that both the truck & the trailer are as level as possible when the load is ready to leave the yard & are matched to run as well as possible. This gives the maximum control for braking & handling, it won't fix everything, but it helps to have proper control of the load under all conditions (wet, dry, curves, grades, rain, snow, etc.). I see too many rigs which are set up wrong to begin with, it creates a potential hazard for other drivers on the road & the potential damage isn't worth it, when simple stuff can be addressed to prevent trouble.

Last week on my way home I saw a new UTV on the side of the road on an embankment with broken suspension on the front end & a flat tire on the passenger side rear. I stopped & asked the driver if he needed help, but it was stuck in the soft stuff & needed a winch to drag it out. When I asked what happened, he said the pin wasn't in place on the hitch, the flatbed trailer had come loose on a bump at 65 mph & the trailer was held by the chains alone. Fortunately there was no oncoming traffic or it would have been much worse when the UTV flipped off the trailer, crossed the oncoming traffic lane, jumped the guard rail & landed in a bad spot. Big $$$ for repairs on a brand new machine!

The simple stuff is always important when towing, check the chains, hitch, ball, wire harness, break-away wire, latch pin, lights, it's all needing a look each time the trailer is hooked up & ready for a trip. We've been lucky towing, but we're careful when hooking up & check things each time. Our teardrop only weighs in at 1700#, but it has brakes & everything a larger trailer has for safety...

Camper-2s.jpg
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JohnnyO

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I have a Reese with a 2” drop from my old truck. Haven’t tried hooking my jet ski up to the Ranger yet (it’s broke) but I might need more drop to keep it level.
 

Trigganometry

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Hi Folks,

No opinion on this other than to understand how they tested the Aluminum drop to obtain these ratings. What material did they use? Heat Treated? How did they conclude 10,000 Lbs rating...If they use the standard testing protocols, then go for it.. Personally, for my towing I would stick with Reese or other name brand products at this juncture. Aluminum just does not have the cyclic fatigue of its steel counterparts, but may be good for towing pop up trailers. Tow my Ranger behind my diesel pusher motor home with this bracket....absolutely not even if it is rated to do so... What is next...composite drops? Carbon fiber is stronger than steel, eh? As one of my engineers, dearly departed now, said...There are two types of plastic in this world...Broken and About to be Broken...

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired
Phil they say it’s 6061 T6 billet aluminum and knowing my materials that claim is probably underrated. Not difficult to check with some high tonnage pull testers. Now what I would like to see if available is their test data and where they failed.
 

Big Blue

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I use a 5 1/2" drop to pull our teardrop trailer. In all cases with a pick-up truck & trailer, the most important thing is that both the truck & the trailer are as level as possible when the load is ready to leave the yard & are matched to run as well as possible. This gives the maximum control for braking & handling, it won't fix everything, but it helps to have proper control of the load under all conditions (wet, dry, curves, grades, rain, snow, etc.). I see too many rigs which are set up wrong to begin with, it creates a potential hazard for other drivers on the road & the potential damage isn't worth it, when simple stuff can be addressed to prevent trouble.

The simple stuff is always important when towing, check the chains, hitch, ball, wire harness, break-away wire, latch pin, lights, it's all needing a look each time the trailer is hooked up & ready for a trip. We've been lucky towing, but we're careful when hooking up & check things each time. Our teardrop only weighs in at 1700#, but it has brakes & everything a larger trailer has for safety...

Camper-2s.jpg
I agree, setup is the most important part of towing. Trailer and truck level, right tongue weight, etc. I have a WDH hitch for my TT so that is all steel from the hitch manufacturer. I have a couple hitch bars with different drops if I need to tow something else so I can level up the trailer.

When I hitch up my TT always go through a check list hitch pin locked, hitch locked, distribution bars in place and properly clipped, bar retainers in place and clipped, safety chains latched with brake cable. lights plugged in, jack all the way up. Then I do a walkaround of the trailer and truck, check light function, mirrors on and adjusted, doors closed and locked, steps up, jacks up, wheel chucks out. Then a second check of the hitch. Then we are ready to hit the road.

Nice looking setup by the way.
 

Blue Streak

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I agree, setup is the most important part of towing. Trailer and truck level, right tongue weight, etc. I have a WDH hitch for my TT so that is all steel from the hitch manufacturer. I have a couple hitch bars with different drops if I need to tow something else so I can level up the trailer.

When I hitch up my TT always go through a check list hitch pin locked, hitch locked, distribution bars in place and properly clipped, bar retainers in place and clipped, safety chains latched with brake cable. lights plugged in, jack all the way up. Then I do a walkaround of the trailer and truck, check light function, mirrors on and adjusted, doors closed and locked, steps up, jacks up, wheel chucks out. Then a second check of the hitch. Then we are ready to hit the road.

Nice looking setup by the way.
I like you do pretty much the same routine. With all the check's & double check's I have to start out a day early. :like:
 


Big Blue

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I like you do pretty much the same routine. With all the check's & double check's I have to start out a day early. :like:
Then you still end up waiting in line at the dump station. :crackup:
 

Snorebaby

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I have a 6" drop hitch. 6x12 enclosed dual axle trailer is pretty level when loaded with my Goldwing. We use a 2 inch drop on the wife's F150. We always check lights/hitch/chains/locks...etc. first thing before heading out and periodically during the day. It only takes a minute. I will also check the bike every stop for gas or food.
 

Cabose-1

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Ordering this one today. Should give me all the adjustability i need.

Screenshot_20210831-104042_Amazon Shopping.jpg


Screenshot_20210831-110923_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
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TheDo114

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I went with the REESE Towpower Rotating, Adjustable Height Triple Ball Mount. It's around 450$ Canadian and gives me the option of all 3 ball sizes and a step.

It's also height adjustable from 5-1/2" rise to 5" drop. I often switch between all 3 sizes so this works really well for me.

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Cabose-1

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Are you going with the 4.5 or the 7 inch drop?
I probably only need the 4. The 7 maybe with a f150 or f250. For the future. Still debating. They cost the same. The 7 just seems a little too much right now. But ill think ill take the 4, ill have the ranger for a good long while.
 
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mark_anderson_us

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I have had a lot of receivers over the years and got fed up and bought this one and should have bought it a long time ago and saved some money

mine is a 6" drop

yes it is a lot of money

dave

https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Weigh-Safe/WS4-2.html
Bought one of these recently. Garbage. Scale is weigh off. Reads about 280 CAT says 340. There is slop everywhere ball insert, height adjustable, receiver. Toes horribly. $25 haul toes WAY better. Waiting for RMA no
 

KA5CVH

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Does anyone else tack weld the nut to the draw bar? I saw a security demonstration put on by a PD where they were talking about trailer thefts. You can put any draw bar and tongue lock you want on your trailer but all you have to do is just take the chains off put a wrench on the nut on the bottom of the ball. Move it over to another draw bar and just tow the trailer away.
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