What ball mounts are you guys running?

[FULLSCALE]

This rig is very easy to swap out ball sizes and adjust for height. A little pricey, but everything was keyed alike and super user friendly. It's a good unit.

You definitely get what you pay for it... and once you have it you can keep it for the next truck!

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[HenryMac]

This rig is very easy to swap out ball sizes and adjust for height. A little pricey, but everything was keyed alike and super user friendly. It's a good unit.

About $250.... seems like a fair price too. Thanks for letting us know.

https://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/Weigh-Safe/WS6-25.html

 

[Lunchbox88]

This rig is very easy to swap out ball sizes and adjust for height. A little pricey, but everything was keyed alike and super user friendly. It's a good unit.

Seems like another good option, especially if you are towing different trailers.

 

[k1w1t1m]

You might check out a Maxxhaul adjustable hitch from Walmart. Good for 5000 lbs and only $35.

 

[jss81258]

Phil, I have a question.

First, I have a Weigh-Safe aluminum ball mount. They advertise V5 and J684 certified, and with a 2-5/16" ball, rate it at 12500 lbs. The aluminum is 6061 T6 so while not the strongest aluminum, it should be suitable. The ball is stated as being stainless steel but I haven't seen an alloy mentioned. I would guess some 400 series or another.

To be clear, I have no intention of towing even to the 7500 lbs the Ranger is rated for. My plan is to use my Reese WD hitch with sway control for anything with brakes. I plan on moving my empty car hauler with it, towing light enclosed trailers, and towing my light utility trailer with my welder mounted on it. In other words, I'll have a huge safety factor with the aluminum ball mount.

So my question is, in the real world, when does cyclic fatigue become an issue? I understand that the real issue is at catastrophic failure, but how long will that take? And how does that compare to mild steel?

We see engine blocks, heads, pistons, rods, transmission cases, truck frames, differential housings, wheels, and on and on made from aluminum. They even make trailer frames from aluminum. Seems like if was an issue, then it wouldn't be used.

FYI, this isn't the first time I've heard an engineer say the resistance to cyclic fatigue is lower with aluminum than mild steel. But I've never been able to have it quantified.

Looking forward to your reply, and thanks!!

Hi Folks,

No opinion on this other than to understand how they tested the Aluminum drop to obtain these ratings. What material did they use? Heat Treated? How did they conclude 10,000 Lbs rating...If they use the standard testing protocols, then go for it.. Personally, for my towing I would stick with Reese or other name brand products at this juncture. Aluminum just does not have the cyclic fatigue of its steel counterparts, but may be good for towing pop up trailers. Tow my Ranger behind my diesel pusher motor home with this bracket....absolutely not even if it is rated to do so... What is next...composite drops? Carbon fiber is stronger than steel, eh? As one of my engineers, dearly departed now, said...There are two types of plastic in this world...Broken and About to be Broken...

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Phil, I have a question.

First, I have a Weigh-Safe aluminum ball mount. They advertise V5 and J684 certified, and with a 2-5/16" ball, rate it at 12500 lbs. The aluminum is 6061 T6 so while not the strongest aluminum, it should be suitable. The ball is stated as being stainless steel but I haven't seen an alloy mentioned. I would guess some 400 series or another.

To be clear, I have no intention of towing even to the 7500 lbs the Ranger is rated for. My plan is to use my Reese WD hitch with sway control for anything with brakes. I plan on moving my empty car hauler with it, towing light enclosed trailers, and towing my light utility trailer with my welder mounted on it. In other words, I'll have a huge safety factor with the aluminum ball mount.

So my question is, in the real world, when does cyclic fatigue become an issue? I understand that the real issue is at catastrophic failure, but how long will that take? And how does that compare to mild steel?

We see engine blocks, heads, pistons, rods, transmission cases, truck frames, differential housings, wheels, and on and on made from aluminum. They even make trailer frames from aluminum. Seems like if was an issue, then it wouldn't be used.

FYI, this isn't the first time I've heard an engineer say the resistance to cyclic fatigue is lower with aluminum than mild steel. But I've never been able to have it quantified.

Looking forward to your reply, and thanks!!

Hi James,

I would defer to the manufacture's stated capabilities. The only real problem I see might raise its ugly head is the dissimilar metals between the hitch and the ball.... Aluminum against steel. Not immediately but galvanic corrosion is certainly possible which weakens the ball to hitch connection. My advice is go ahead and use this but keep a careful eye and if you see any white crust around the ball/hitch...dismantle, clean and put a antioxidant coating on the hitch hole to the ball thread.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[jss81258]

Thanks, Phil! I am aware of galvanic corrosion, or dissimilar metal corrosion. I actually wipe the parts off after use and store in the swing a way tool box in the bed. The assembly is disassembled and certain parts end up either in the upper tray or wrapped in bubble wrap.

I think I'd be more concerned with corrosion between the receiver and shank where it's steel against aluminum. The stainless steel ball against the aluminum slider shouldn't corrode much anyway. Those parts are also disassembled after use (a single captured pin holds the two together).

I don't actually disassemble for the corrosion, but rather because it all fits in the box easier, and I like my shins.

Appreciate the reminder though, and will look for the antioxidant. I hadn't thought of that.

And, I still don't have the cyclic fatigue issue quantified!! Oh well........


James

Hi James,

I would defer to the manufacture's stated capabilities. The only real problem I see might raise its ugly head is the dissimilar metals between the hitch and the ball.... Aluminum against steel. Not immediately but galvanic corrosion is certainly possible which weakens the ball to hitch connection. My advice is go ahead and use this but keep a careful eye and if you see any white crust around the ball/hitch...dismantle, clean and put a antioxidant coating on the hitch hole to the ball thread.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Thanks, Phil! I am aware of galvanic corrosion, or dissimilar metal corrosion. I actually wipe the parts off after use and store in the swing a way tool box in the bed. The assembly is disassembled and certain parts end up either in the upper tray or wrapped in bubble wrap.

I think I'd be more concerned with corrosion between the receiver and shank where it's steel against aluminum. The stainless steel ball against the aluminum slider shouldn't corrode much anyway. Those parts are also disassembled after use (a single captured pin holds the two together).

I don't actually disassemble for the corrosion, but rather because it all fits in the box easier, and I like my shins.

Appreciate the reminder though, and will look for the antioxidant. I hadn't thought of that.

And, I still don't have the cyclic fatigue issue quantified!! Oh well........


James

Hi James,

Sorry....missed the cyclic fatigue.... I do not have the SN curve for the materials, but it is understood that aluminum has a much lower fatigue life than steel, but in the thickness of the aluminum it is likelywell beyond customer usage. The problem is you can't see fatigue easily if at all. The safe bet would be to just replace the the piece at a point in time. Now when is that time... I have no idea but it is usage dependent. Sorry...can't help much here....Materials is not in my skill set. I did have a Materials area as part of my department, and I relied heavily on them and their expertise.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co. Retired

 

[jss81258]

Hi James,

Sorry....missed the cyclic fatigue.... I do not have the SN curve for the materials, but it is understood that aluminum has a much lower fatigue life than steel, but in the thickness of the aluminum it is likelywell beyond customer usage. The problem is you can't see fatigue easily if at all. The safe bet would be to just replace the the piece at a point in time. Now when is that time... I have no idea but it is usage dependent. Sorry...can't help much here....Materials is not in my skill set. I did have a Materials area as part of my department, and I relied heavily on them and their expertise.

Best,
Phil Schilke
Ranger Vehicle Engineering
Ford Motor Co.

Phil,

Thanks for your insight.

The engineer mentioned always said he wouldn't own a vehicle with aluminum wheels because of cyclic fatigue. Yet I see everything from small cars to road tractors with them. And, I only remember seeing wheels fail due to mechanical damage (hit a curb, get in a wreck etc). I will say that most of the time, the aluminum wheels break where steel would bend. So there is that.

When I bought the Weigh Safe ball mount, my intent was to check it when I check my trailers, usually once a year. Figured I'd penetrant test. That should reveal the start of fatigue.

Thanks again.

James

 

[LRB45]

Cry once ($), tow everything...

I went the "hit the order button and cry" route as well for mine. I decided on a Rhinohitch though along with the convert-a-ball set. Since my truck is lifted I went with the 10" drop so I should not have any issues on any trailer I need to pull

Definitely not a cheap route but with the amount of adjustment and weight ratings it was worth it to me. Plus I think they look badass. The intent is to have it powder coated to match the truck better just haven't taken the time to take to the shop to be done

 

[Texasota]

In my quest for a ball mount made in USA I settled on this one and picked it up at my local U-Haul store:

https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplie.../Ball-Mount-(7-3-4-drop-11-1-2-length)/?id=96

This ball mount has a 7.75" drop, is rated for 5000 pounds max trailer weight and 500 pounds max tongue weight. The price was very reasonable and I am impressed with the build quality. From my measurements the 7.75" drop should be spot on for my boat and 2020 Ranger. This is my second U-Haul ball mount. I wonder who makes them for U-Haul....

I have learned that I need two ball mounts for my Ranger. The one I described above works perfectly for day trips when my Ranger’s bed is empty. But, when we go on an extended boat camping trip the bed is loaded with cooler, food locker, and all of our camping gear. In this situation the 7.75” drop is to much.

I bought another U-Haul ball mount with a 5.75” drop which works well for this situation. This is the first truck I have owned where I needed two ball mounts. My wall rack I built is now full. I did learn that U-Haul’s ball mounts are manufactured by Curt.

 

[Snorebaby]

Hmmmm....I like that idea of a rack. Hadn't even thought of that!

I have a 2 5/16" ball for my trailer and need a 2" ball for my brother's trailer and my cousin's trailer to use the Ranger to haul with. I also have a shackle hitch for the Ranger and it fits well under the back seat.

My wife's F-150 uses a 2 5/16" for our trailer but she also has a 3way hitch that works for the other trailers too. I can't use the 3way hitch as the ass of the Ranger sits too high.

 

[rangerfever2]

Why don't you just settle with OEM parts from the Levittown page itself https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-trailer-hitch-ball-mount-2-quot-drop-bl3z19a282b

This is just my suggestion and I bet you will be more happy with the quality.

 

[DrizzyDrake]

Have this thing. $25 7500lbs 3 ½ drop. Worked great. Was fairly level. If you have a lift, you need more. Otherwise this is good.

 

[cnj]

I don't personally believe in aluminum for this purpose. Not saying it's not safe, I just prefer steel. Here is what I'll be using: Adjustable Ball Mount Drop - 10 Inch Trailer Hitch Ball Mount | etrailer.com
I also have this for loads over 5K: Adjustable Ball Mount Drop - 10-1/8 Inch Trailer Hitch Ball Mount | etrailer.com

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