Oil Change - DIY

Delirious

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You need to make sure and select the L4 2.3 engine not the L5 3.2 engine. That one uses the M14-1.5 valve. Our 2.3 uses the M12-1.75 valve.
So I just did an Internet search on the L4 2.3 vs L5 2.3 engines to see a difference. I couldn't find it. However I did find the new Mazda keeps popping up. And I imagine I have the L4 and Jen also since you guys all agree on the size. Can you make short work of explaining the difference or post a link that does?
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Grumpaw

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So I just did an Internet search on the L4 2.3 vs L5 2.3 engines to see a difference. I couldn't find it. However I did find the new Mazda keeps popping up. And I imagine I have the L4 and Jen also since you guys all agree on the size. Can you make short work of explaining the difference or post a link that does?
The L5 is a 3.2 Ford Power Stroke Diesel that is used in the Transit series van and a few other models.
It takes the M14-1.5 valve size.
I think what Big Blue was referring to is the fact that is is very easy to transpose the numbers 2.3 to 3.2 by mistake. There is no L5 2.3 engine.
You have the L4 series 2.3 and it does take the M12-1.75.
 

KJ Mick

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Pulling those pins to change the filter sucks. I might try some strong magnets epoxied to the liner.

Good call on the adapter Trigg. I forgot about that

I did just that (last oil change). I only needed three of those jokers pulled to get my business done. I was tired of messing with them.

I used the super strong neodymium magnets on the frame of the truck, and then I "sandwiched" the liner between those, and some round, black magnets.

800-miles later... haven't moved a bit, holding like a champ ??

PicsArt_08-20-02.59.08.jpg
 

quangdog

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I installed a Fumoto valve, and love it. There are pros and cons to both the Fumoto and the ValvoMax:

With the ValvoMax, you can better control the flow of oil, but you must have their extension drain tube thing to drain your oil. If you bring it into the dealer or an oil change place, chances are good they won't be able to drain the oil (unless you also bring the drain tube) and they may even just remove the adapter and put a regular drain plug back in (and charge you for it!).

With the Fumoto, it can be drained by anyone without any extra attachments (the drain tube is convenient, but not strictly necessary) but it requires an extra adapter on the Ranger to get it to clear everything correctly.

For what it's worth, I leave my drain hose for the Fumoto in a drawer in my tool chest in the garage, and only attach it when I do the oil change. This is my first oil drain plug adapter valve thing, and I really like how easy/clean it makes oil changes. If I were shopping again, I think I'd go with the Fumoto, simply because anyone can use it to drain the oil, without any extra attachments/adapters/screw on bits that they may not have.
 


Mojo Jojo

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Do all my oil changes myself. On the 4x4, the factory skid plate needs to be removed to access the drain plug, but it's just 4 bolts and it pops right out. Some folks have added a fumoto valve or similar to avoid this step. The filter is accessed through the driver-side wheel well, and requires removing some of the pins holding the flap in place behind the wheel. This is a little annoying, but quick and not difficult. Contrary to some early reports, removing the wheel is completely unnecessary.
 

onthejob

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Can anyone confirm the oil filter cap wrench for the OEM Motorcraft oil filter FL910S? I've seen 14 flutes and 15 flutes and also 73mm and 75.5 or 76mm
 

onthejob

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Can anyone confirm the oil filter cap wrench for the OEM Motorcraft oil filter FL910S? I've seen 14 flutes and 15 flutes and also 73mm and 75.5 or 76mm
14 flutes. Probably 73mm but 74mm appears to work no problems.
 

Ranger Roger

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I just did my first oil change a few days ago and removing the oil filter was very painful. It was on TIGHT and there's not really any room in there to use a strap wrench or a band wrench (all I had at the time). I ended up struggling with the band wrench for over 15 minutes before getting the filter loose enough to twist off by hand. I ended up buying a 76mm 14 flute cap wrench for next time. Fits the Mobil 1 M1-102 filters I use.

Removing the flap to get to the filter was no big deal. Those clips are easy to remove if you have the right tools. Instead of forcing them out, use the clip-removal tool (or something like that) only to apply modest outward pressure on the clip while using a Philips head screwdriver to loosen the screw in the center. The outward pressure prevents the screw from spinning in place. Some of them will simply unscrew without the clip-removal tool at all.

Removing the skid plate was no big deal either. Not much to say there.

I found quite a bit of surface rust while I was under there, so I used a wire brush on it and sprayed Rust Converter over it. Hopefully by doing that every time I work on the truck, it'll become somewhat rustproofy over time. The worst of it was on the edges of these guys (not my pic):
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Did my first oil change at 5200 miles. Warning came on a few hundred miles ago. Oil filter not very tight as expected. Installed Valvomax. Cut off the bottom of a gallon washer fluid jug and used it to direct oil into large drain pan. No metal shavings or fuel smell in oil. Used ramps. Only minimal oil came out of filter and down chute. Worked well. Turned tire to access Flap in wheel well. Connectors with Philips screwdriver were easy to strip. Used pry removal tool also but still a pain. Only reinstalled 2 of 4. Don’t really need 4.

Wondering if subsequent mileage warnings will be at 5000 mile increments. Need a tool to remove Bosch filter. Have 3 metal or plastic ones but none fit end.
 

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CarbonTremor

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Just finished my first oil change at 5,018 miles. Actually was easier than anticipated, the oil filter change really was no big deal and not overly difficult to access. Used fram ultra filter & pennzoil platinum full synthetic. Seems like at least 6.2 quarts came out with filter.
 

CarbonTremor

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Also, I do mostly easy highway miles & was pretty surprised how black & strong smelling the oil was.
 

jjk2020

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I did just that (last oil change). I only needed three of those jokers pulled to get my business done. I was tired of messing with them.

I used the super strong neodymium magnets on the frame of the truck, and then I "sandwiched" the liner between those, and some round, black magnets.

800-miles later... haven't moved a bit, holding like a champ ??

PicsArt_08-20-02.59.08.jpg
Did you use 3 or 6 maginets (3 on frame, 3 on flap)? What size are they?
 

SVTPaul

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Is anyone able to comment on whether the stock drain plug has a magnet and, if so, have you cleaned any debris or any of that sludgy paste of fine metal particles from it at oil changes? I don't think you see as many magnets on engine oil plugs these days, although that probably has more to do with the extra 25 cents it might cost. My truck is coming up on its first oil change and I'm thinking about getting the Valvomax. Would just like to know if I would be deleting a drain plug magnet in the process.
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