Ford EcoBoost Carbon Buildup Issue Solved Via Walnut Blasting

db_tanker

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The V-6 Ecoboosts are dual injected to avoid this.

Unless that F-150 had a DI only four cyl ecoboost it's apples to oranges.

Only for the 2nd gen - 2018 and later.
 

db_tanker

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As far as maintenance on the catch can do you get much in there?
I generally have to do a dump approximately every 3-4 weeks. I try to do it at the end/beginning of each month.

As for volume...generally its about 1/2 full with it mostly being like water with a small amount of fuel and such. That may be because of my location - Houston - being so damn humid around here.

D
 

Progeny2021

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My '97 cobra had this plate between the intake and the heads with butterfly valves blocking the the short runners so it would use only the long runners in low rpm to promote low end torque. Those valves would gunk with carbon an everyone would suck half a can of seafoam into the intake via a vacum line, let it sit/soak for a while an drive the he!! out of it to burn off the carbon. I did this once an it smoked like a train for ten minutes burning off the seafoam an what ever else. I removed the valves when I put a supercharger on that came with a plate minus the valves the one I removed looked pretty good. It may have been carbon free before but it looked like it was doing something
My 2005 GT with the new (for 2005) 3v 4.6L had VVT and Variable Tuned Intake Runners - a brand new motor for that year. Powertrain was trouble free. Sold in 2020 with 36k miles - I'm missing it for sure. Still had the original 2 piece spark plugs. Changed the cabin filter only once. A shame I don't have a climate controlled barn that I could fill with every vehicle I've ever owned.... :)

IMG_0462.JPG
 


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Regular oil changes with good oil and the good ol Italian tune-up regularly help stave off this issue for a while. I never had a problem with it and never once blasted my valves on my 175k mile MZR. YMMV.
I had an Edge with the 2.0 Ecopoop, which I traded for my Ranger, it had 125K on it and I never had an issue with the engine!
 

egilbe

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Please keep us informed as to price, local options and local availability. Hoping someone competent performs the work as you don't want any walnut medium to enter the combustion chamber during cleaning.
I worked for an automotive parts supplier famous for its belts and hoses. One small operation made trunk trim parts from plastic fiber, usually recycled polyester and polypropylene fibers blended together. the poly pro had a lower melting point than the polyester so when it was heated to the point where the poly pro started to melt, it could be molded and formed and was a semi-rigid part. One of our big ovens that made the fiber sheets had a huge steel perforated drum that the material would roll over to get heat bonded before it was cut into sheets. One of the maintenance duties was to periodically sandblast the drum to remove the built up semi melted plastic fiber. We used to use sandblast beads, but at some point they switched to walnut pellets because it was more eco-friendly.

The drum was heated from the bottom. When it was sandblast beads, we would shovel it out of the burner area when we had time, during periodic maintance intervals. Sometimes, we could go three or four maintenance cycles before the shoveling was required.

Well, after a walnut blast, the walnut shells were left in the bottom of the burner area and oven was fired up and they started to process the bonded sheets. After a few hours, the oven got hot enough where the walnut pellets cought on fire and burned up that oven. Oops! Oh yeah, the plastic fiber when blended together like that, when it caught on fire, was the 2nd hottest burning petroleum fire, next to coal. I witnessed a few catastrophic fires there. multimillion dollar machines going up in flames. Needless to say, the fire department was on speed dial.
 

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While an "Italian Tune Up" might help a little (probably not but it'll be fun anyways :wink:) it's not going to prevent carbon build up on the valves with a DI motor. You need Port Injection to wash the back side off which we don't have.
I would not try to purposely do an Italian Tune up on it. That method is to try and get the build up to break free and go out the exhaust, but on our turbo engines there is an obstacle, and it could be damaged.
 

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You can read on the internet and find someone having problems with anything. I think if you change your oil at 3 to 5K using good oil, use better gas and add a fuel system cleaner when you do the change your not going to have issues. I will not be planning in my head I need walnut blasted. Only mod I did was a catch can. Youtubers will say anything to get views. Watch to much there and you will sell every car you buy think it will explode at 40K.

I do a 3K Mobile 1 full synthetic oil and filter change and run 93 octane gas. Gas not from the corner store 5 miles in the woods. Add Lucas fuel system cleaner to the tank when doing the oil change. I don't suspect I will be walnutting my truck any time soon. Especially before 100K.

I just hit 10K miles and plan the use a GDI cleaner through the intake past the turbo. Better to prevent than wait until so bad you can't clean it.

I've seen poorly maintained non GDI engines have the same issues with carbon.

I never let the quick lube places touch my truck or any car!
 
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AzScorpion

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You can read on the internet and find someone having problems with anything.

Only mod I did was a catch can.
Yet you just contradicted yourself by saying this. With the 100's of thousand of these motors out there IF a catch can was needed I'm sure the Ford engineers would know better than these aftermarket companies. But hey, Youtubers will say anything for views. :wink:


I think if you change your oil at 3 to 5K using good oil, use better gas and add a fuel system cleaner when you do the change your not going to have issues. I will not be planning in my head I need walnut blasted. Youtubers will say anything to get views. Watch to much there and you will sell every car you buy think it will explode at 40K.
Maybe not at exactly 40,000 miles but they will need to be done. DI's, our especially have no way to clean the back side off. So yes carbon will get gunked up on there and no amount of oil changes or top tier gas will prevent this.
 

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I worked for a guy in a real service station back in 74-75 and he would pour water down the carb while the engine was running, amazing how much better the motors ran after that treatment. He claimed it cleaned the carbon of the pistons and valves.
Can confirm this works. I did it several times in my S/C Regal and GTP because the rotors in the supercharger were coated in Teflon or something.


Just hope the rough idle starts when it isn't the middle of summer.
That's the only time I would tackle a job like this, but I don't live in Texas. While you are doing yours in January, I'm under 3 feet of snow.?
 

dmm3369

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Yet you just contradicted yourself by saying this. With the 100's of thousand of these motors out there IF a catch can was needed I'm sure the Ford engineers would know better than these aftermarket companies. But hey, Youtubers will say anything for views. :wink:



Maybe not at exactly 40,000 miles but they will need to be done. DI's, our especially have no way to clean the back side off. So yes carbon will get gunked up on there and no amount of oil changes or top tier gas will prevent this.
With all due respect then we have all purchased a pile of junk! If you actually have to do this at 40K intervals its just no good.
 
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AzScorpion

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With all due respect then we have all purchased a pile of junk! If you actually have to do this at 40K intervals its just no good.
Nowhere does it say it has to or should be done at 40,000 miles. In the video at the 1:00 mark he says the customer brought this in and wanted it done. Some may go 60K-80K+ before having misfires but it's still a good idea to do some preventative maintenance before you start having these symptoms.

Kind of like changing your air filter. You don't wait until the filter is clogged up and engine is starving for air, you regularly check it and change it. Here with all the dust we have in the air I change mine every 10,000 miles but others in different areas go double that. Seeing as it's not as easy to just pop the intake and inspect the valves I would assume having this done somewhere around 50K-70K miles would be a good idea to do. Especially if you're one who tends to keep your vehicles a long time.
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