What oil will you be running after your 1st oil change?

t4thfavor

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For me it isn't about what my time is worth, it is whether or not the job will be done right. I've seen so many bad oil changes done - There are only a few places I'd trust to do it the right way, with quality oil and filter. Doing it myself gives me a chance to look at my truck and examine things. It is easy enough, especially on the truck. I don't even have to jack it up! Besides, I kind of like doing it.....:like:
That's definitely part of it. I guess things are different in NJ, I live in Michigan, and you can't take your truck in for anything that doesn't take half a day... Couple that with the amount of miles I drive, and it's not possible for me to do a dealer oil change schedule...
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RedlandRanger

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First oil change is free.

The Works at a Ford dealership is $49.99 which includes Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil which is recomended by Ford for the 2019 Ranger.

I was at the dealer for 30 minutes and I didn't have to find somewhere to dump the used oil.
We can recycle used oil curbside - very convenient.
 

I_smell_like_diesel

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I stock up on oil and filters when they go on sale. I stocked up on my choice of (5) 5 quart jugs of synthetic oil and (4) Motorcraft FL-910's.

Oil was on sale for about $24 per jug plus $10 mail in rebate for up to 4 jugs (-$40)
FL-910's about $5 each

Ends up being about $25 for a full synthetic oil change.... much cheaper than the dealer or quickie place.

Log date/miles/service description/invoices numbers on a spreadsheet, on my laptop, for warranty purposes and save paper invoices.
 

Noseoil

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On one of the previous posts I saw the "Shell Rotella" mentioned. My advice is don't do it! Look it up on this site to see what you're doing inside the motor.

Here's a pretty comprehensive list of motor oils, test data & observations by a guy who tests oil with real-world experience & machinery. If you have a day or two I highly recommend reading this information. If not, look at the list he has compiled.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
 

Sarge104

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On one of the previous posts I saw the "Shell Rotella" mentioned. My advice is don't do it! Look it up on this site to see what you're doing inside the motor.

Here's a pretty comprehensive list of motor oils, test data & observations by a guy who tests oil with real-world experience & machinery. If you have a day or two I highly recommend reading this information. If not, look at the list he has compiled.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/
That blog provided a good bit of reading for this slow work day...lol!

*From the 540 blog/what I tell my customers*
"API SN “Plus” and/or GM dexos1-“Gen 2” certified motor oils are formulated to help minimize the amount of oil rich vapors and oil droplets that are drawn into the intake air, that would be present to form those baked on deposits, and/or potentially contribute to Low-Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI) in small Turbocharged Gasoline Direct Injection (TGDI) engines."
 


Rp930

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I’m confident in Mobil 1 Annual Protection. And it’s meets spec.
 

Toytec

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So I'm watching one of those Scotty videos today and he's mentioning a new oil spec coming out in May 2020. It's called gf6, and looks like it's designed for exactly what's in the Ranger. Along with all modern engines. This is the first I've heard of it. Anyone else?
 

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I’m confident in Mobil 1 Annual Protection. And it’s meets spec.
Agreed. I've done a lot of reading (maybe too much) in regard to turbo motors. It seems full synthetic is what is best.

My only question, being an old school - flat tappet cam - pushrod V-8 motor guy, on a brand new 2.3 Ecoboost motor, does it need the dino blend during a specific "break in period"?

Or can we just switch to Mobil 1 at the first 3,000 mile oil change?

Great thread by the way. Any thoughts or comments are appreciated.
 

Washashore

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So I'm watching one of those Scotty videos today and he's mentioning a new oil spec coming out in May 2020. It's called gf6, and looks like it's designed for exactly what's in the Ranger. Along with all modern engines. This is the first I've heard of it. Anyone else?
Link to Chevron's site with ILSAC GF-6 details.
https://www.chevronlubricants.com/e...92_gf6_e_c&mtid=744skq56394&slid=&product_id=

It also notes there will be a corresponding API SP spec that will replace SN/SN+
 

pa-fatboy

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Before retirement, I worked as a fleet mechanic for Mobil Oil,
We had access to a corporate lubrication department which provided us with expert advice on every lubricant .
For my personal vehicles I have run Motorcraft oil and have never had a part which ran in oil show any wear. Of course oil change intervals have increased as oil has improved and as fuel management has improved.
I will use Motorcraft parasynthetic 5W30 in my new Ranger .
It meets the highest standard in the industry.
I have been cautious about extending oil change intervals so I'll probably be conservative and change oil every 4000 miles. I may even hand my used oil down to be used in some older cars as I have in the past.
Hello Floyd, I beleive you make some very good points. Your comments reminded me of a NY City Taxi Car engine oil test that Consumer Reports published. I found the artical here: http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/xs11-info/articles/51-consumer-reportstruth-motor-oils-july-1996.html

In the article, CR explains what oils were tested, how they validated results and what they looked for. Since I read this report in 1996 I have still purchased Harley Davidson Synthetic and Mobil 1 synthetic for my rides. Even though I do not need to spend the extra money. The only vehicle I think requires special oil with high iron content is my 1966 Mustang.

In part, CR concluded with: None of the tested oils proved better than the others in our tests. There may be small differences that our tests didn't reveal, but unless you typically drive under more severe conditions than a New York cab does, you won't go wrong if you shop strictly by price or availability. Buy the viscosity grade recommended in your owner's manual, and look for the starburst emblem. Even the expensive synthetics (typically, $3 or $4 a quart) worked no better than conventional motor oils in our taxi tests, but they're worth considering for extreme driving conditions high ambient temperatures and high engine load or very cold temperatures.

Read the article, I did and it changed my thinking of what engine oil is really doing and what is important. Advertising has programmed our brains.

Peace All!
 

pa-fatboy

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I always run Amsoil in the Pony, but then I've had it over 140 mph a few times. Since the Ranger will not race or haul much, will probably go with Mobil1
Same here. I am a junky at the pocono raceway. I've been able to reach 145 mph on the front straightaway. I run Mobil 1 full synthetic in my 2016 Pony.
 

pa-fatboy

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!0W - 30 used to be 10 weight oil that is modified so it only thins out to the same as 30 weight when hot. Oil is getting like tire sizes, your guess is as good as mine what all the numbers mean. Since ford has to fix my engine for 3years I assume that they know what oil is good for engines. Now days most engines dont fail because of oil problems. All of the controls and stuff hanging on your engine will cost you more to fix than the actual engine.

That assumes that you drive like a nice person. If you are an nascar wanabe and are desperate to beat everyone to the next light then you going to pay more to fix everything on your truck. Better oil wont help you.
But, someone like that wouldn't buy a Ranger just yet... If Ford would drop a coyote 5.0 into a Ranger, THEN you would attract the NASCAR/Drag Strip wanna be's. I do wish my Ranger had more power. It's good, but, Meh..
 

pa-fatboy

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Agree.. FRAM is trash, they have a great marketing campaign/budget. I also like WIX, NAPA silver/gold, M1, hastings if you can find them are still a solid choice.
I have always changed my own oil. I would buy oil and air filters in bulk (like 5 at a time). I have FRAM filters (the orange ones) from the 80's and 90's in my workshop. I can not unload the Ford Escort and Subaru DL filters to ANYONE!. It may be interesting to buy a new one and cut them all down the middle just to see.

I think I could saw them in half pretty easy..
 

RedlandRanger

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Hello Floyd, I beleive you make some very good points. Your comments reminded me of a NY City Taxi Car engine oil test that Consumer Reports published. I found the artical here: http://www.xs11.com/xs11-info/xs11-info/articles/51-consumer-reportstruth-motor-oils-july-1996.html

In the article, CR explains what oils were tested, how they validated results and what they looked for. Since I read this report in 1996 I have still purchased Harley Davidson Synthetic and Mobil 1 synthetic for my rides. Even though I do not need to spend the extra money. The only vehicle I think requires special oil with high iron content is my 1966 Mustang.

In part, CR concluded with: None of the tested oils proved better than the others in our tests. There may be small differences that our tests didn't reveal, but unless you typically drive under more severe conditions than a New York cab does, you won't go wrong if you shop strictly by price or availability. Buy the viscosity grade recommended in your owner's manual, and look for the starburst emblem. Even the expensive synthetics (typically, $3 or $4 a quart) worked no better than conventional motor oils in our taxi tests, but they're worth considering for extreme driving conditions high ambient temperatures and high engine load or very cold temperatures.

Read the article, I did and it changed my thinking of what engine oil is really doing and what is important. Advertising has programmed our brains.

Peace All!
I wouldn't trust consumer reports to do in depth reporting on something as technical as oil. Just like engines, oil is CONSIDERABLY different than it was in 1996 (that was 23 years ago). There are lots of good sites talking about how different brands of oil hold up. I've personally witnessed the huge benefits full synthetic made in my 1973 Capri - what it did for oil pressure alone is worth the added expense. Extended oil change intervals, coupled with the high tech engines of today require high tech oils.

I suppose if you subscribe to the "change your oil every 3000 miles" it might not make a ton of difference what you use - but even then, I wouldn't trust generic no name oil in my $40,000 truck.
 
 



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