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Question about rear shock replacement

brroberts

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Yep on the ratchet strap question and answer. I too did it just as described. In the “old” days we used a small rope/ line and a screw driver or something to tension the loop and compress the shock. Many of them you can compress by hand, some you can’t, and sometimes it’s just easier to have some compression help. The 4600’s compress fairly easy by hand, but I just didn’t feel like dealing with it when there was a small ratchet strap laying in the back of the truck.
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Love my Eibachs. Did the whole thing in my garage. I was able to push the rear up an in myself, but it was an effort. Pushed them to where they sat where they should be, but not perfect. Then used a punch to square up the holes and put the bolt through. Front was fine... on one half. I followed the stage 3 fox install, which kept the axle nut on. I would suggest to take the time to remove the axle nut. I dislocated the cv axle on the drivers side removing the shock. Had to buy a new one... and make a three hour round trip to get it. Passenger side went great. Just a tad too aggressive on the other side I guess.
 

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Yep on the ratchet strap question and answer. I too did it just as described. In the “old” days we used a small rope/ line and a screw driver or something to tension the loop and compress the shock. ...
And when dinosaurs still roamed the land... the 1960s and70s..... we didn't have gas filled shocks and you just set the length you wanted and they stayed there.
 

Colo_Ranger

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Installing the Eibach rears this weekend and have some questions....

1 Does orientation matter? I've seen videos showing both ways.
I don't think it does, but I oriented mine where Eibach was facing the correct way. I can't imagine a company would place their logo upside down...

2 Is dust boot necessary? Most videos they don't use it.
It will increase the longevity of your shocks. As dirt and grime build up on the shaft, it will start to pit and damage the seal. This is how you get leaking shocks (at least, one of the ways). It may not look as cool, but it will last longer.

3 What is the torque for the bolts?
I like to use the German torque spec of Goodentaught. I searched, but didn't find it.
 


janitorjim

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And when dinosaurs still roamed the land... the 1960s and70s..... we didn't have gas filled shocks and you just set the length you wanted and they stayed there.
up hill both ways in the snow when it was 100 degs in the shade
grumpy-ew.gif
 

landiscarrier

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Did you do it or take it to the dealer?
Nope. Did it all in my driveway then took it to the dealer to have an alignment done. It's really not that difficult of a job. In my opinion.
 
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got3fords

got3fords

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Nope. Did it all in my driveway then took it to the dealer to have an alignment done. It's really not that difficult of a job. In my opinion.
Cool! How long did it take?
 

Colo_Ranger

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Cool! How long did it take?
Where do you live? If you're in the Denver Metro, I would be happy to help. My rears took about 45 minutes and I was being a wussy little whiny baby during it. Ok, not really, but I was trying to avoid muscling it in.
 

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I have read many posts of people getting an improved ride and handling with aftermarket shocks. Is the improvement as noticeable on non-FX4 trucks? Is it worth it?
2019 super cab STX. I judt installed Rancho shocks on the back. Under $150 for both delivered.

Yes it is worth it. I was very shocked how easy the OEM were to compress by hand.

New rear shocks and just installed Cooper Discoverer AT3's, replacing OEM Bridgestones. Like a different truck
 

dondonbabyraptor

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ok maybe a stupid question but I hear about the ratchet strap to compress. Is this after you have the top bolted in and if so are you placing the hook of the ratchet in the bottom bolt hole of the shock then the other hook on the leaf spring (or frame) and then ratchet it down?
I have a very detailed guide on rear shocks replacement.. fox rears are stiffer. I am 27 years old, in shape but not body building muscular and was able to position my shoulder right underneath the point of pressure to get max leverage in muscles after bolting in the top. A second hand to slip the bolt in is pretty necessary though. But requires less tools, just a little physics leverage, normal strength and a second pair of hands. Let me see if I can find my thread and edit this post. If you have the basic tools to take out the two bolts and a torque wrench you’ll be good to go and save yourself $70-150. Plus it’s fun and easy.

EDIT: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/fox-2-0-rear-shock-install-notes.14443/
 

Dr. Zaius

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Concerning shock orientation, with a gas charged shock it's not supposed to matter.

When I did my Bilsteins I put the boot toward the bottom.

I didn't want mud/dirt to accumulate on top of the shock body under the boot and possibly cause the seal around the shock piston to fail due to contaminants. With the boot at the bottom all that stuff hopefully falls to the bottom of the boot.
 

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So looked around and found the pdfs of the 2019 shop manuals here . Knew I had seen this before, very handy.

Torque is 52 ft lb.

The oem shock has the piston up so that's how I installed. I pulled the Eibach stickers off and turned them right side up.

I installed the top end of the shock and then found places to hook my ratchet strap to the truck near the top end and centered the strap on the bottom of the shock and compressed. Installed bottom bolt and nut and removed ratchet strap. Torque bolts, done.

The instructions said to use new bolts and nuts, however...

1. Wanted to do this today
2. Believed the original bolts and nuts would be fine
3. The Ford bolts are on backorder
 
 








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