Oil Viscosity

[ctechbob]

No. Higher viscosity oil might be to thick to get through the little nooks and crannies of the engine and actually cause higher wear. Try 5w-40 if you want but I wouldn't go thicker than 5w on the bottom end.

That's not how that works. I guarantee you even a 20W50 is going to get everywhere that a 0W20 would. Not that you would want to use a 20W50 (Or a 0W20).

Engineers pick the oil based on pressure, flow, and the ability to last through the recommended oil change (IE not shear out of grade), with a large dose of EPA Ratings mixed in. Along with 'will this engine survive until the warranty is out with this recommendation?'

You could run a much thicker oil if you wanted, chances are, the engine would last just as long as a 5W30, but things will suffer. Fuel mileage and potential startup wear for starters. Also, should something break, Ford will likely point the finger at the oil, it would give them a convenient 'out' to not pay for the repair, although they would have to prove the oil caused the failure (not very likely).

The fact of the matter is, except in edge cases (higher power output, racing, etc), a good 5W30 will go the distance, even if it tends to shear slightly out of grade.

Now, for those of us that want the engine to last longer, shorter OCI's, better filters, different oils, etc, can probably tack some life onto the end.

Personally, I worry more about intake valve deposits and soot loading in the oil causing timing chain wear. So I've settled on a 5k OCI with a middle of the road synthetic oil.

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[MikeyB]

That's not how that works. I guarantee you even a 20W50 is going to get everywhere that a 0W20 would. Not that you would want to use a 20W50 (Or a 0W20).

Engineers pick the oil based on pressure, flow, and the ability to last through the recommended oil change (IE not shear out of grade), with a large dose of EPA Ratings mixed in. Along with 'will this engine survive until the warranty is out with this recommendation?'

You could run a much thicker oil if you wanted, chances are, the engine would last just as long as a 5W30, but things will suffer. Fuel mileage and potential startup wear for starters. Also, should something break, Ford will likely point the finger at the oil, it would give them a convenient 'out' to not pay for the repair, although they would have to prove the oil caused the failure (not very likely).

The fact of the matter is, except in edge cases (higher power output, racing, etc), a good 5W30 will go the distance, even if it tends to shear slightly out of grade.

Now, for those of us that want the engine to last longer, shorter OCI's, better filters, different oils, etc, can probably tack some life onto the end.

Personally, I worry more about intake valve deposits and soot loading in the oil causing timing chain wear. So I've settled on a 5k OCI with a middle of the road synthetic oil.

Shawn I disagree with using the 20/50
The 5W would definitely flow faster/better on a cold start-Where the greatest potential for damage could occur. The 20/50 would be thicker in the flow. You even stated it in your comments.
Not trying to start an argument, just adding to the conversation.
Back in the late70's-early 80's I worked in a shop where my bosses used 20/50 on everything for oil changes. Times, engines, oils are Much different today.
If anything I would go to 0W30 and I would'nt even do that.

Motor oil discussions can be interesting and fun and I try to avoid them, but just wanted to add my 2C this time around.
To the OP I would suggest: Stick with a 5W30 that meets specs, change frequently and stay away from sending your oil to have it checked.
Promise your 2.3 will be ever grateful, and you'll be happy knowing you're doing your part

 

[Friday yet?]

[QUOTE

Stick with a 5W30 that meets specs, change frequently and stay away from sending your oil to have it checked.
[/QUOTE]

THIS

 

[ctechbob]

Shawn I disagree with using the 20/50
The 5W would definitely flow faster/better on a cold start-Where the greatest potential for damage could occur. The 20/50 would be thicker in the flow. You even stated it in your comments.
Not trying to start an argument, just adding to the conversation.
Back in the late70's-early 80's I worked in a shop where my bosses used 20/50 on everything for oil changes. Times, engines, oils are Much different today.
If anything I would go to 0W30 and I would'nt even do that.

Motor oil discussions can be interesting and fun and I try to avoid them, but just wanted to add my 2C this time around.
To the OP I would suggest: Stick with a 5W30 that meets specs, change frequently and stay away from sending your oil to have it checked.
Promise your 2.3 will be ever grateful, and you'll be happy knowing you're doing your part

I wasn't saying to use 20W50, it was directed at the comment that a thicker oil won't get into the 'nooks and crannies' that a lighter one will. It will get there, it won't magically be too thick to not flow through the bearings. It would take it longer to get there, for sure, but it is going to get there. You wouldn't end up with dry bearings through the engine.

Never suggested to use something that thick. I think there's very few use-cases for that particular oil these days, even in a race engine of any kind.

 

[R_Willis]

Not an oil engineer, but stayed at a Holiday Inn Express once....

I have used Mobil 1 in all my vehicles including multiple Corvettes I did track days with. I have never had any engine issues (leaking plastic oil cooler in 3.2L Pentastar Jeep doesnt count).

Very confident in Mobil 1.

I would stick to Ford's recommended specs IMHO.

I used to have all my Vette's oil samples done by Blackstone.

 

[brroberts]

Thanks guys. I do agree a 5w30 is probably best given Ford’s recommendations. I’ve never done oil analysis until this truck, but thought it would be interesting to follow, so I’ll probably continue that for my own info and learning.

I’m leaning toward trying the Motocraft full synthetic for a few changes to see where it lands. I’m happy with the filters, and only 1 of the 5 reports shows much in the way of fuel, and that was still within spec.

It’s interesting to “follow the oil.” The two 5K changes include lots of towing on trips. The two 3K changes are just driving between trips so the truck doesn’t just sit in between. The 2K change was the initial ‘new’ change.

 

[Wytchdctr]

I'm sticking with what the factory put it in. Weight, oil, and filter. I was once a Mobil 1 only guy, but as another stated I've seen some funky stuff on Blackstone reports.

I'm just ignoring the 10k and changing it at 5k because I drive like an idiot from time to time. I'm sure for regular driving 10k is fine.

 

[bostonburner]

I've been running royal purple in all of my vehicles over the last ten years. Used to run mobile 1 in my cars but they all burned oil until I switched to RP, Ive also noticed the engine feels smoother and my mileage doesn't change as much between oil changes.

 

[Wytchdctr]

I've been running royal purple in all of my vehicles over the last ten years. Used to run mobile 1 in my cars but they all burned oil until I switched to RP, Ive also noticed the engine feels smoother and my mileage doesn't change as much between oil changes.

RP destroyed a GL4 needing transmission of mine. Claiming it was GL4 compliant.

I never forgave them for that (Then switched to redline for my manuals and was amazed by what that did)

Does this have shit to do with engine oil? None. Just expressing my continued pissiness towards them for killing that trans bearings. From like 14 years ago....

And I had a hook up with a whole seller at the time so I got it all cheap until that happened. That place is now two hours away if they are even open anymore.

 

[Joeiconic]

Lots of folks get more concerned over those Blackstone reports than the lab results from their doctor. It seems that they generate a lot of repeat business by creating concern for the owner over the minor variations that exist from report to report and that are entirely random. Forget Blackstone, run OEM oil and filter, change it every 5k, and you’ll be fine.

 

[Wytchdctr]

Lots of folks get more concerned over those Blackstone reports than the lab results from their doctor. It seems that they generate a lot of repeat business by creating concern for the owner over the minor variations that exist from report to report and that are entirely random. Forget Blackstone, run OEM oil and filter, change it every 5k, and you’ll be fine.

I'm not testing the Ranger. Just changing at 5k with factory stuff and sending it. Let's see if this can beat my last Hyundai on mileage, with a tune. I am at 16k miles now. 180k to beat. I ran my Korean built 2.0 lasted a bit longer after I noticed oil coating a spark plug before the compression ring gave up as well... (That kept me out of a Maverick and into a Ranger so it's failure wasn't all that bad timing wise...) But I'll sing the praises of Ford if this one lastest that long with very little work needed.

I am not a huge badge fan. Driveway has a Ford, Kia, and 2 GMs in it. The GMs will both be gone soon. One to someone in need of a not pile of shit car (screw dodge and dodge alone) and the other because I don't need it anymore.

 

[brroberts]

I want the truck to last as long as possible. I find the reports interesting, and want to give the truck good care. I don’t feel like Mobile 1 will kill my truck; it meets Ford’s specs. If I can do better at reasonable cost, I’d like to do so. As stated, I will probably try the Motocraft to see how it does, and I like reading the reports. If you don’t want oil analysis, and I’ve never used it before, feel free not to use it. I don’t use it on my 2016 Corolla with Mobile 1 or my 1998 C2500 with conventional Valvoline. Both are doing great.

 

[btsmith52]

Talking about motor oil is like talking about religion and politics. There's usually a lot of talk with very little science behind it. If you are not happy with Mobil 1 or Penzoil or Royal Purple or Amsoil . . . . . . Pick up some Supertech or Amazon Basics oil in the recommended viscosity, change your oil as recommended, and save a lot of money. Your truck will run well for a very long time.

 

[Langwilliams]

I'd say doing 5K changes is far more important than the brand you choose.

 

[Old NaCl]

Years ago mobil 1 paid to have our fleet Chevy 2 of them with 300k on them torn down and mic,ed. Some parts mic,ed as new. This was with 10k oil changes with a filter swap at 5k according to Andy.

They were cars used in the northeast Chevy version of the crow Vic.

I'd stick with a 30w max , 0 or 5 w and change when the OLM says so.

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