Oil/Oil Filter

[JoeyRig]

Oh yeah. Extremly dark. Especially how the 10r80e has a harsh learning cycle for the first couple thousand miles, and the spark plugs were toast.

Oh SPARK plugs...right over my head. That makes sense.

Thanks for confirming my intent to change the trans fluid very early

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[Mustang2Ranger]

OP - I changed my oil after the break in period (1k) to remove any residual assembly junk, and switch from the blend to full synthetic

Now I change it when the oil meter gets to about 40% based on my driving style

To your original question, I stick with Motorcraft Full Synthetic 5W-30 and a FL910S

I can get it at a decent price, Blackstone reports have been coming back good so far, and it provides the protection the turbo needs, says it on the bottle

I always ran Motorcraft Full Synthetic in my Mustang too

And as everyone else said, you will get many differing opinions posting here

 

[halligan1201]

Honestly didn't find too much on the forums in the way of what to use for an oil change, just how to do it.

I'm also not really too worried about "the flaming" as my question (as bad or repetitive it is) is still getting answered.

Either way I appreciate everyone's input. Didn't imagine this would be a huge controversy.

Don't take it personally. The search feature isn't great; searching Google for "topic + Ranger5G" usually gets better results. And some of the members who have been on here since the start are burned out and bored so they like to give a hard time sometimes.

 

[JoeyRig]

Don't take it personally. The search feature isn't great; searching Google for "topic + Ranger5G" usually gets better results. And some of the members who have been on here since the start are burned out and bored so they like to give a hard time sometimes.

Yeah, I now see the google option here on the forums too.

OP - I changed my oil after the break in period (1k) to remove any residual assembly junk, and switch from the blend to full synthetic

Now I change it when the oil meter gets to about 40% based on my driving style

To your original question, I stick with Motorcraft Full Synthetic 5W-30 and a FL910S

I can get it at a decent price, Blackstone reports have been coming back good so far, and it provides the protection the turbo needs, says it on the bottle

I always ran Motorcraft Full Synthetic in my Mustang too

And as everyone else said, you will get many differing opinions posting here

So little AAR for my oil change.

I chickened out and went with the 910-s and the blend, didn't have time to research anything else thoroughly enough for my liking. I'll probably switch over to the Motorcraft Full Synthetic on the next oil change and stick with the 910-s.

I used ramps, and installed the valvomax drain plug. Dropped skid plate, pulled fill cap, pulled OEM drain plug, let it drain to drips, then removed filter and drained until drips. Was nervous about getting to the filter or making a mess but it was super easy to reach with a ling extension and filter socket. Also the little trough that redirects drips worked flawlessly. No mess!

Didn't even need to remove or crank the wheel, kept it straight. On my '22 I have 10mm bolts where it seems others have plastic cips. I must have had a Monday vehicle because the filter and drain plug were not gorilla tight.

I put 6 quarts in and the dip showed just OVER the hash marks, but not near the second bubble. Think I'm good to go or should I drain a little? Thank you!

 

[HDEO]

It wil help with a few things.

1: I will help with MPG(even though I have yet to notice)
2:it has a higher heat protection(great for turbocharged applications)
3:it is easier on the engine for cold start

There is probably more but I can't remember right off

These are all correct. Full Synthetic oil is generally an oil blended with API Group III or IV base stocks. These have a higher viscosity index than the Group II stock used in most conventional oil formulations. The higher VI gives the better fuel economy and cold temperature performance as well as better response to oxidation inhibitors. In general the additive system for these premium products is also formulated for better oxidation control and detergency. Whether this additional performance is needed by our trucks running a generally mild consumer driving cycle is debatable but in my opinion it’s overkill. The additional cost to me isn’t justified but it might be to you.

 

[JoeyRig]

I keep seeing people comment about changing their oil to remove all the crap from when the engine was built. this isn't the 1940's anymore. the machining and build process is a lot more refined now.

besides your filter does all the work keeping the oil clean.

just change your filter if you think you got the white elephant that wasn't built well.

Yeah I know that machining and all that is good nowadays but even the dealer said do an oil change at 3k after break in. Couldve been trying to just scam me into an oil change but it would've been free anyway so I'm not sure what they stand to gain.

These are all correct. Full Synthetic oil is generally an oil blended with API Group III or IV base stocks. These have a higher viscosity index than the Group II stock used in most conventional oil formulations. The higher VI gives the better fuel economy and cold temperature performance as well as better response to oxidation inhibitors. In general the additive system for these premium products is also formulated for better oxidation control and detergency. Whether this additional performance is needed by our trucks running a generally mild consumer driving cycle is debatable but in my opinion it’s overkill. The additional cost to me isn’t justified but it might be to you.

I figure that I put about 100 miles a day on the truck to and from work, which is a mix of long flat highways, and hilly twisty turny backroads. I don't think I have a lead foot but, coupled with the occasional day of hauling, I'm wondering if am a little more than a mild consumer.

Also, I absolutely love this truck, and held off from getting a truck until Ford dropped a "midsize." I have no interest in the big F150s or the expensive, guzzling super duties, and the fact they are already making the Ranger bigger for 6th gen, and recycling the fronts looks from every other Ford truck, makes me want this truck to last as long as I can.

Thank you!

 

[HDEO]

Yeah I know that machining and all that is good nowadays but even the dealer said do an oil change at 3k after break in. Couldve been trying to just scam me into an oil change but it would've been free anyway so I'm not sure what they stand to gain.



I figure that I put about 100 miles a day on the truck to and from work, which is a mix of long flat highways, and hilly twisty turny backroads. I don't think I have a lead foot but, coupled with the occasional day of hauling, I'm wondering if am a little more than a mild consumer.

Also, I absolutely love this truck, and held off from getting a truck until Ford dropped a "midsize." I have no interest in the big F150s or the expensive, guzzling super duties, and the fact they are already making the Ranger bigger for 6th gen, and recycling the fronts looks from every other Ford truck, makes me want this truck to last as long as I can.

Thank you!

More severe duty will be associated with lower fuel economy. Towing for example causes the engine to operate much closer to full power than normal commute driving. Surprisingly, long periods of idle can be very severe for the engine oil. And of course high ambient and operating temperatures will lead to more oxidation of the oil. A common rule of thumb is that every 5 degrees hotter the oil is, the oxidation rate doubles. I would characterize highway commuting as relatively mild service. Heavy towing on mountainous roads in high ambient temperatures would be severe service.

 

[RedDakooter05]

I'm using amazon brand oil and "Finer Luber" oil filter in my F150.



Either Motorcraft or NAPA brand oil depending which is cheaper at time of change. Always Full synth unless it's over 100k, then I look to synth blend.
Filter: Motorcraft or again, Napa Gold or wix.

 

[Desert_5G]

I will give you the best advice from a non bias perspective. Go on YouTube and search for oil filter comparision. There are several that cut them open and actually compare what goes into manufacturing them. And then from there you can form your own opinion on what you want. IMO I went with the NAPA Platinum oil filer.

 

[quangdog]

Eh, I'll beat the dead horse as well: My first oil change was at 2250 miles, and I used OEM filter and oil. Next one was at 5000 miles, and I switched to Mobil-1 Extended Performance filter and 5W-30 full synthetic oil, and will use that every 5000 miles for the life of the truck.

If you are planning to do your own oil changes, I recommend getting an oil drain valve (I like Fumoto, but there are several options) - it makes the process much faster and cleaner. Here's a little write-up I did on my drain valve: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/fumoto-oil-drain-valve.3031/page-2#post-144936

Since it has also been briefly discussed: at 2500 miles I also changed the front and rear diff oil as well as the transfer case fluid. I have not touched the transmission fluid. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 80w90 Synthetic oil in the diffs, and Motocraft Mercon LV in the transfer case. The rear diff fluid from the factory was already pretty dark, and there was a small amount of metal on the magnet. The front diff fluid looked much better (I only had maybe 100 miles of 4WD on it by then, though). Transfer case fluid also looked good.

Here is the drain plug from my rear diff, at 2500 miles. It's magnetic, and all that build up is metal shavings from the gears wearing in:

Here is the factory fluid I drained from my rear diff at 2500 miles:

At any rate: I'm not sure it really matters *what brand* of oil and filter you use. Change it on time, and you'll be fine. Enjoy your truck!

 

[JoeyRig]

Eh, I'll beat the dead horse as well: My first oil change was at 2250 miles, and I used OEM filter and oil. Next one was at 5000 miles, and I switched to Mobil-1 Extended Performance filter and 5W-30 full synthetic oil, and will use that every 5000 miles for the life of the truck.

If you are planning to do your own oil changes, I recommend getting an oil drain valve (I like Fumoto, but there are several options) - it makes the process much faster and cleaner. Here's a little write-up I did on my drain valve: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/fumoto-oil-drain-valve.3031/page-2#post-144936

Since it has also been briefly discussed: at 2500 miles I also changed the front and rear diff oil as well as the transfer case fluid. I have not touched the transmission fluid. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 80w90 Synthetic oil in the diffs, and Motocraft Mercon LV in the transfer case. The rear diff fluid from the factory was already pretty dark, and there was a small amount of metal on the magnet. The front diff fluid looked much better (I only had maybe 100 miles of 4WD on it by then, though). Transfer case fluid also looked good.

Here is the drain plug from my rear diff, at 2500 miles. It's magnetic, and all that build up is metal shavings from the gears wearing in:

Here is the factory fluid I drained from my rear diff at 2500 miles:

At any rate: I'm not sure it really matters *what brand* of oil and filter you use. Change it on time, and you'll be fine. Enjoy your truck!

So I've gotten a lot of recommendations for MOBIL1, that might be what I do moving forward.

I also plan the 5000 mi oil changes but I'll have to see if that becomes prohibitively expensive.

I went with a ValvoMax drain plug, and honestly after using it to drain a little extra oil after pulling the filter I can safely say I'm in love.

After hearing reports of gunk in the diffs, I was going to change those out too. I'll probably do some more research on what fluids.

If you don't mind me asking, why haven't you touched the trans yet? That's probably #2 on my priority list after the oil change.

 

[quangdog]

If you don't mind me asking, why haven't you touched the trans yet? That's probably #2 on my priority list after the oil change.

Mostly because of the difficulty in getting to the fill /dipstick port. I've tried to check the level myself, and since you have to check it when the engine and trans are both hot, I could not physically maneuver a wrench in the space without searing my arm - even when wearing a very long welding glove. Obviously I could drain/fill it cold, but I'd want to be able to check the level to make sure it is filled correctly after, and I like my arm to stay un-charred.

I think I saw somewhere else in this thread that you already ordered the fill tube extension thing for this truck... I've seen those, but as I recall they run several hundred dollars... and it's not worth that much to me.

Also, I believe Ford says the trans fluid never needs to be changed - though I could be wrong about that. I'm not looking at the service manuals at the moment.

 

[Dgc333]

At any rate: I'm not sure it really matters *what brand* of oil and filter you use. Change it on time, and you'll be fine. Enjoy your truck!

I have been doing my own oil changes for over 50 years and have been using synthetic oil in all my turbo vehicles since 1985. I purchase whatever brand is on sale and most often that is Mobil 1. The last time I purchased oil Valvoline was on sale and that is what is currently in the Ranger. I have no way of objectively telling if one oil is better than another so I don't fret over brand.

 

[THLONE]

Yep, it is the same story every time you read these threads. Seat of the pants by guess by golly. The worst is it is "cheep insurance." It is not cheep and not insurance. Have you ever noticed that most people who recommend more oil changes are making money on them. And the rest are just by guess by golly opinions with no basis in science.

 

[Old Red Replacement]

Hi everyone:

Here is my story FYI, DIY as Amsoil preferred customer, oil comes UPS in two days.

First oil changed@ 1038 mi
Changed rear, front and transfer case @ 3064 miles
rear oil was black, metal filings on drain plug.

FoMoCo battery and monitoring system , replaced because Showed low voltage sitting one year old

Run 93 octane with 4 oz PI to each 10 gal added.

use city/hwy 19 mpg, 12.5 towing camper.

Plain Jane stock and loving it.

No issues, good luck with yours.

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