Pics of 285/70/17 tires

[MTBranger]

Could one of you guys that is running 33's without any rub do a measurement from center of fender to center of wheel for me?

I got mine mounted and I'm just barely rubbing the felt liner and mud flaps in the back of the well with the bars out. Going to raise my Fox coils up more but didn't want to guess at how much more I needed.

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[Frenchy]

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Could one of you guys that is running 33's without any rub do a measurement from center of fender to center of wheel for me?

I got mine mounted and I'm just barely rubbing the felt liner and mud flaps in the back of the well with the bars out. Going to raise my Fox coils up more but didn't want to guess at how much more I needed.

Wheels there will do it!!! I'm not sure what your offset is but it is doing the job for sure!! I myself am running factory wheels with no spacers and only touch the sway bar at full lock!!!

 

[Z_randall]

Hello all, I just ordered some method 704 17/8.5 and 0 mm of offset. I am looking to run a 285/70/17 KO2. I have a 2.5 inch rough country leveling kit on the front. Does anyone know how much rubbing I may encounter? Will I possibly need to remove the crash bar or replace them with the aftermarket ones?

 

[NvrFinished]

Hello all, I just ordered some method 704 17/8.5 and 0 mm of offset. I am looking to run a 285/70/17 KO2. I have a 2.5 inch rough country leveling kit on the front. Does anyone know how much rubbing I may encounter? Will I possibly need to remove the crash bar or replace them with the aftermarket ones?

With that offset, you are definitely going to need aftermarket crash bars running that size tire.

 

[Z_randall]

With that offset, you are definitely going to need aftermarket crash bars running that size tire.

Do you have a recommendation on which one to go go with?

 

[NvrFinished]

Do you have a recommendation on which one to go go with?

From all the reports here, only the stock wheel (+55 offset) with 285/70R17's will clear with the stock crash bars with a 2.5" lift. Even then, some tires won't clear the knuckle and people ran a 1/4" spacer to clear. BFG's have been confirmed to clear the knuckle.

Wheels with a +20 to +30 offset are known to work well with aftermarket crash bars. Many with 0 offset wheels had to remove their crash bars completely.

I would suggest reading through the Tire Size Fitment Master thread to get a better idea of what works with the various offsets and tire sizes.

 

[BladeRanger]

Hello all, I just ordered some method 704 17/8.5 and 0 mm of offset. I am looking to run a 285/70/17 KO2. I have a 2.5 inch rough country leveling kit on the front. Does anyone know how much rubbing I may encounter? Will I possibly need to remove the crash bar or replace them with the aftermarket ones?

Here's mine, I have a 295 /70R17 with 0 offset, the bars are deleted and the plastics block behind the front tires is gone as well, I cut the felt liner but you don't have too, some of the guys here can chime in. The plastic block has 4 screw at 13mm. I had a bit of rubbing on the fender flare and I'm going to shave that off a bit

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Hello all, I just ordered some method 704 17/8.5 and 0 mm of offset. I am looking to run a 285/70/17 KO2. I have a 2.5 inch rough country leveling kit on the front. Does anyone know how much rubbing I may encounter? Will I possibly need to remove the crash bar or replace them with the aftermarket ones?

I’ll say it again. You’ll rub like a Thai masseuse. Crash bars and plastic rear crash block removal are likely necessary. At the least, you’ll probably need aftermarket bars, such as ReadyLIFT, BDS, Fabtech, etc. Taller, wider tires and a bit, or a lot, of poke look great, but it doesn’t come without complications. Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

 

[Z_randall]

I’ll say it again. You’ll rub like a Thai masseuse. Crash bars and plastic rear crash block removal are likely neCesar. At the least, you’ll probably need aftermarket bars, such as ReadyLIFT, BDS, Fabtech, etc. Taller, wider tires and a bit, or a lot, of poke look great, but it doesn’t come without complications. Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

Did you take off your crash bars or go with aftermarket ones?

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Did you take off your crash bars or go with aftermarket ones?

I have ReadyLIFT aftermarket bars.

 

[Z_randall]

I have ReadyLIFT aftermarket bars.

Is there any reason you picked that one over the BDS one?

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Is there any reason you picked that one over the BDS one?

It took some research and I really only had pictures from the forum and the Internet to go by. Price was not a factor in my decision.

To me, the BDS appeared to be simply a smaller crash bar that was designed so it could be “angled out of the way”.

The Fabtechs looked very strong but didn’t appear to give the same degree of clearance on the rear bars as the others.

The ReadyLIFT beams appeared to be purposefully designed to accommodate the tire and had an extra “rib” to add strength. It just seemed better thought out.

Your choice will be yours to make but I hope this helps.

 

[Z_randall]

It took some research and I really only had pictures from the forum and the Internet to go by. Price was not a factor in my decision.

To me, the BDS appeared to be simply a smaller crash bar that was designed so it could be “angled out of the way”.

The Fabtechs looked very strong but didn’t appear to give the same degree of clearance on the rear bars as the others.

The ReadyLIFT beams appeared to be purposefully designed to accommodate the tire and had an extra “rib” to add strength. It just seemed better thought out.

Your choice will be yours to make but I hope this helps.

Thank you I appreciate it!

 

[Z_randall]

It took some research and I really only had pictures from the forum and the Internet to go by. Price was not a factor in my decision.

To me, the BDS appeared to be simply a smaller crash bar that was designed so it could be “angled out of the way”.

The Fabtechs looked very strong but didn’t appear to give the same degree of clearance on the rear bars as the others.

The ReadyLIFT beams appeared to be purposefully designed to accommodate the tire and had an extra “rib” to add strength. It just seemed better thought out.

Your choice will be yours to make but I hope this helps.

One more question for you, any advice on the removal of the stock ones?

 

[bfastr]

I just installed the Readylift beams myself, today. they are awesome.
The printed instructions walk you thru the rear beam removal.
For the front, remove the lower valance. 5 bolts on bottom, and a bunch of clips, also some pull pin clips under the upper opening thing. just pull it off the front, then you will see three nuts ( on each side) holding the bumper on. loosen them all. but only remove two on each end, then run the last one out to the end and you have plenty of room to pull the bumper forward and the front bars will slide right out without the bumper falling off.

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