Switch to activate perimeter alarm if Tailgate is opened

[WOADKIL]

One issue here:

“3. Wiring is simple, the Hood Ajar Switch is just 2-wires, Power & Ground
The Hood Ajar Switch is a (NC) Normally Closed switch, so when the hood is opened the Ground is broken, which triggers the IPC message and if armed the Alarm.
It uses body ground, and its power source comes from the BCM.

So, for a wire run, it will only need (1) wire to tap into the Hood Ajar switch and (1) wire to a body ground anywhere along the frame.
I am sure this is how @ Bsthroop wired his setup”

If it is a NC system, and you are tapping into it, you need the new switch to create a loop. Running two wires will be necessary.
The rationale for this being:
The hood switch will continue to send a ground if it remains closed.


Having installed somewhere in the thousands of security or remote starter systems over the duration of my career, I have added my share of sensors and solenoids.
I believe a mag switch is the best option. For this. A good one is relatively inexpensive. Finding one that is rated for AND can stand up to the elements yet small enough is the trick.

I would avoid the popper installation. It takes a lot of force to open the latches. When installing aftermarket systems, you are left with few good options to connect to. The mechanical interface you create is nothing compared to what the OE will do. A failed door popper is less of an issue because you have door #2. If your tailgate popper fails, you have to get into the bed and then inside the tailgate.
The popper is possible. Probably relatively easy. I would caution against the reliability.

Ford Superduty Power Tailgate

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[airline tech]

Played with Forscan today, to see if I could possibly get some kind of indication or power feed from the BCM for Tailgate Ajar - With using the F-150 Spreadsheet as a guide. --No Luck

Hex Lines as follows (Tried)
726-25-01 - Deck Lid Configure - Liftgate / Trunk / None - Will not let you Change the Write

Rewrote these (2) Hex Lines with no help.
Note: Door 5 = Hood and Door 6 = Tailgate / Hatch / Trunk
726-66-02- Door Ajar Switch (6) Configure - NO or NC, normally open or closed.
726-67-02 - Door Ajar Switch (6) Configure - Present or Not Present

So, this rule's out any Forscan change to trigger an extra indication or message - it is not programed for it like the F-150 is.

So, we are down to how to wire in a switch to the Tailgate handle movement.
As noted, and pointed out my first look at this would not work as the circuit would see a constant ground.

So, a second look and thought process.

And just spit balling some ideas.

Option 1 - disconnect the hood switch and use the circuit solely for the tailgate handle or tailgate ajar (whichever you choose)
So run 1-wire from the power feed at the now disconnected Hood Switch back to the Tailgate switch and use a nearby body ground for the switch.
The Hood Ajar will now be triggered by the Tailgate.

Option 2 - Tee into the power feed for the Hood Switch, so cut the wire and run 2 wire runs back to the Tailgate switch - Input = input power from the BCM --- Output = Feedback Voltage back to the Hood Switch
The ground will come from the existing hood switch ground.
This way when either Hood switch or Tailgate switch opens it will kill the power feed (open circuit)
and trigger the hood ajar or alarm if armed

Option 3:

Cut the Ground wire at the Hood Switch ground point (G-114) and run 1 wire back to the Tailgate switch.
Input = Ground from the Hood Switch --Output = Nearby Body Ground
So, when both switches are closed, the circuit is complete.
The Hood switch is now grounded through the Tailgate switch ground.
If either the Hood is opened or the Tailgate handle is moved, the ground will be removed, and the Hood Ajar light will trigger, or alarm will sound if it is armed.

Option 2 and 3 - are basically a power and ground interrupt switch.
I like option 3 best as it makes it more clean without cutting into an expensive wire harness


Option 3 - Ground Wire - Tie In
I know that the body ground is to G-114, just by the battery.
So easy access there are (3ea) visible wires at that point with a total 5 (2 spliced into it) not visible. One of the 3 wires is a direct connection to the Hood Switch
So, you have 3 wires going into (1) terminal lug to body ground.

Now to find which one of the 3 - is the direct feed.
So, open up the wire harness and trace to the ground point.
or
Cut the Lug off and separate each wire out - then meter test to find the wire.
Once found - Replace the terminal lug with just 2 of the 3 wires in it.
and use the Hood Ajar Ground for the wire run back to the tailgate.

This is the cleanest option and can be reversed easily and the only wire cutting is at the end of the wire.

G-114 Location - If you look down in front of the battery (behind the Driver's Headlight)
you will see a shelf with 2 ground point connections.
The ground point nearest the driver's fender (APPEARS) to be G-114
Needs confirmation by cutting the Lug and Meter Test

EDIT: A plus on this: If the wire is cut - The alarm will trigger

Again, just looking at options.
It CAN be Done.

HAPPY NEW YEAR - Everyone

 

[Fawnbuster]

I'd like to see a way to have an alarm go off if someone 'tests' the tailgate handle when the truck is armed. Whether it's an add-on or standalone. Or a function of the Perimeter Plus alarm module add on from Ford. (Can someone test that?)

It's a shame that a mild stun like a shock collar couldn't be used ? of course with my luck I'd grab the gate latch and light myself up. ???

 

[airline tech]

Just to clarify, my test results will add the functionality of a tailgate handle check - as an alarm trigger when the doors are locked and it will only trigger a Hood Ajar message when you pull the handle to open the tailgate, once the handle is released to normal position the Hood Ajar message will go away.
The alarm trigger will function as if someone gained entry at the hood or doors and alarm will require a silence (deactivation) signal from the FOB.
The alarm will sound for 30 seconds, go to stand-by and then sound for 30 seconds.
It will continue to sound for 10 cycles (Total)

So, all that is left to do:
1. Find a mounting spot - at the handle
2. Find a Reed Switch ( proper size) - that will trip ( open / closed) - at the mounting location
(Spacing between the Reed’s)
3. Find the specific ground wire in the G-114 location
4. Determine a good wire routing from the G-114 back to the tailgate

 

[pbethel]

It's a shame that a mild stun like a shock collar couldn't be used ? of course with my luck I'd grab the gate latch and light myself up. ???

Yes. Yes I would.

 

[Grumpaw]

Just keep this in your bed...no wiring or modification needed.
Just half a dozen banana's thrown into the bed daily.....
In addition to the 12 gauge, chimps are well known to sling their poop !!!

 

[Bsthroop]

Just to clarify, my test results will add the functionality of a tailgate handle check - as an alarm trigger when the doors are locked and it will only trigger a Hood Ajar message when you pull the handle to open the tailgate, once the handle is released to normal position the Hood Ajar message will go away.
The alarm trigger will function as if someone gained entry at the hood or doors and alarm will require a silence (deactivation) signal from the FOB.
The alarm will sound for 30 seconds, go to stand-by and then sound for 30 seconds.
It will continue to sound for 10 cycles (Total)

So, all that is left to do:
1. Find a mounting spot - at the handle
2. Find a Reed Switch ( proper size) - that will trip ( open / closed) - at the mounting location
(Spacing between the Reed’s)
3. Find the specific ground wire in the G-114 location
4. Determine a good wire routing from the G-114 back to the tailgate

I did loop the wire from the hood latch so I will be doing the same this week with finding a mounting point for the microswitch and adding wire to join the new switch in series.

 

[Fawnbuster]

Just keep this in your bed...no wiring or modification needed.
Just half a dozen banana's thrown into the bed daily.....
In addition to the 12 gauge, chimps are well known to sling their poop !!!

Grumpa they need to bring back the trunk monkey!

 

[Racket]

Just to clarify, my test results will add the functionality of a tailgate handle check - as an alarm trigger when the doors are locked and it will only trigger a Hood Ajar message when you pull the handle to open the tailgate, once the handle is released to normal position the Hood Ajar message will go away.
The alarm trigger will function as if someone gained entry at the hood or doors and alarm will require a silence (deactivation) signal from the FOB.
The alarm will sound for 30 seconds, go to stand-by and then sound for 30 seconds.
It will continue to sound for 10 cycles (Total)

So, all that is left to do:
1. Find a mounting spot - at the handle
2. Find a Reed Switch ( proper size) - that will trip ( open / closed) - at the mounting location
(Spacing between the Reed’s)
3. Find the specific ground wire in the G-114 location
4. Determine a good wire routing from the G-114 back to the tailgate

Oh boy, now R5G is going to produce another geegaw I won't be able to live without ?.

 

[Danager]

For those not as familiar with magnetic switches - when choosing a magnetic switch, the n/o and n/c is “reversed”.
For this application, you want a n/o switch. The circuit closes (connects) when the magnet is in close proximity.

Supplies:
- magnetic reed switch - n/o, exterior/weather resistant.
- 8+ solderseal connectors.
- 2 pair of weather-tight connectors (if you plan to remove the tailgate). You need the second one as you would have to plug in a jumper to keep the circuit closed with the tailgate removed.
- 50’ of primary wire. OFC (oxygen-free copper), avoid the CCA (copper-clad aluminum). 16awg = more than you need, but a good universal size.
- 25’ of wire loom. I prefer fabric tape.
- cable ties/zip-ties. Various lengths.
- epoxy

 

[2021Ranger]

Looks like some of you have a handle on this and know what you’re doing. For us that have the skill to do the mod but don’t have the skill on what are the right parts to get and what to wire where, can there be a parts list and maybe a few pic’s of what to cut/splice where and how to run the wire or wires From those that know what there doing? Thanks and hope I speak for others besides me..

 

[airline tech]

Looks like some of you have a handle on this and know what you’re doing. For us that have the skill to do the mod but don’t have the skill on what are the right parts to get and what to wire where, can there be a parts list and maybe a few pic’s of what to cut/splice where and how to run the wire or wires From those that know what there doing? Thanks and hope I speak for others besides me..

Only true hard part is determining which of the (3) ground wires run to the Hood Ajar
As all 3 will be the same color and the only way to isolate it - is to pull apart the harness and trace - only about 3-4 feet of run but still disturbance of wire harness
Or
Cut the Ground Lug - Off
Disconnect the Hood Ajar Switch
And use a Multimeter- Set to Ohms
POS Lead - To Harness - Grd Pin #1
Neg Lead - To each of the 3 - Grd wires that were cut
2 of the wires will show OL
1 of the wires will show (.01 to .02) Ohms this is the wire we need to connect and extend back to the tailgate

I ordered a pair of Reeds, cheap set - to play with mounting options -
The challenge is distance placement, to trigger connect / disconnect
Ref my video of operation, not really any sweet spots to mount
Best spot is possibly mounting on the back side of cover panel , but have to extend a block closer to the actuator lever for Reed Spacing

 

[airline tech]

For those not as familiar with magnetic switches - when choosing a magnetic switch, the n/o and n/c is “reversed”.
For this application, you want a n/o switch. The circuit closes (connects) when the magnet is in close proximity.

Supplies:
- magnetic reed switch - n/o, exterior/weather resistant.
- 8+ solderseal connectors.
- 2 pair of weather-tight connectors (if you plan to remove the tailgate). You need the second one as you would have to plug in a jumper to keep the circuit closed with the tailgate removed.
- 50’ of primary wire. OFC (oxygen-free copper), avoid the CCA (copper-clad aluminum). 16awg = more than you need, but a good universal size.
- 25’ of wire loom. I prefer fabric tape.
- cable ties/zip-ties. Various lengths.
- epoxy

"2 pair of weather-tight connectors (if you plan to remove the tailgate). You need the second one as you would have to plug in a jumper to keep the circuit closed with the tailgate removed."

You bring up a good point, but possibly an alternative would be to daisy chain a short wire with a lug at the ground point tie in.
This would put the ground back on the Hood Switch
Leave that lug disconnected and tie back into the harness, so it would not touch metal.
I don't know how often a owner would need to remove the tailgate for hauling etc
So, it boils down to user preference of how (speed wise) they want to make it.
At least in the engine bay, the lug would stay clean.

FYI: The Hood Ajar switch - is wired with 20 Gauge Wire

 

[dynodrumer]

Just thinking, Has anyone ever tried tamper proof screws on the taillight mounting screws. Might deter the thieves.

 

[Scottlane1171]

Yes. Have tamper proof screws on the tail lights as well as the inside access panel to the tailgate to keep from getting tailgate open after tonneau is cut open. Still want something to make em think when pulling the tailgate handle

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