Switch to activate perimeter alarm if Tailgate is opened

[airline tech]

To be all inclusive of all options for tie ins,
As each (Door Ajar) indication operates the same with separate power feeds.
The grounds for the other doors however have several splices in the circuit so no direct tie in unless you go directly to the individual door, which requires pulling the door panel.
I personally think the Hood Switch is the best spot with a slightly longer wire run than going to one of the doors.
Plus , if you choose to go with only the tailgate ajar and the tailgate is down , you are going to have a Door Ajar message showing when it is down,
Not sure I would want that message on a rear door with young children in the back seat.

I want to also point out, that depending on how well the Reed Switch works on the handle, we may be able to also tie in another switch for the Tonneau Cover or Tool Box Lids.

On paper it should work, but we know the Ranger is a Finicky truck when it comes to adding anything outside of factory .

I have ordered a couple sets of Reeds and some 2 Wire and Single Wire connectors to get started.
The first and most important is going to be placement of the Reed at the handle to actually trigger

Sponsored

 

[subquark]

Keep it analog and physical with the next best thing to the Trunk Monkey:

can also trip CS gas ... just sayin' ...

 

[airline tech]

Semi update:

When looking at options to help identify the specific ground wire I was focused on only using a multimeter, which would require separating out the wires to find it.

Then I thought, a low amp clamp would help. Being that I have come across times in the past I have had a need for one. I always found an alternative.
So I decided to add one to my vast collection, awaiting delivery.

Have you ever had a tool, bought for a specific job that you forgot you had?
Or ever think hey I could also use this for (x)
Well I have a Tone Generator that was bought for the sole purpose of my CAT 6 install during a remodel project.
This can be used to pinpoint the wire, as long as I disconnect the connector so I am only feeding the ground.
So, with that I can at least find my ground and will post pic of which wire it is.
However not sure all will be exact placement in the lug. It will depend on who crimped the wires together, was it a standard procedure across all harnesses and all the exact same.

will update when I locate it

 

[Fawnbuster]

Keep it analog and physical with the next best thing to the Trunk Monkey:

can also trip CS gas ... just sayin' ...

Weeeeeee!

I've seen plastic claymores as receiver hitch plugs

 

[got3fords]

This is off-topic a bit, but since you asked about this and how they get to the tail lights (one thing to be said about my thriftiness in getting an XL - non-LED taillights!), you might also consider a tailgate lock.

I know that's not the main thing they steal, but it does have some value and can be easily removed. I do like to leave mine open on some days (like to dry out the BedRug or while slowly filling up the bed with yard cleanup over the weekend) so I installed a tailgate lock (but the hose clamp method is probably 95% as good and what I'd do if I did it again).

Ford Tailgate Lock By McGard $33.31
https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/vkb3z-18168-a.html
forum posts: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...e-mail-today-for-your-ranger.1866/post-617693
(install) https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ranger-today.3511/post-625657

hose clamp method - you should be able to face the screw down and tighten it from under the truck, making it a pia to remove ...

I thought you didn't need to actually remove the tailgate to remove the lights?

 

[subquark]

I thought you didn't need to actually remove the tailgate to remove the lights?

You are correct, only need to open the tailgate to get to the two screws on each tail light. I just added the lock because I leave the gate open often. And, since I have an XL, I don't have LEDs or BLIS in my tail lights - maybe a tweaker would think mine sucks and move on. =p

But I'm still going to change the screws. I was looking for the drilled spanner (snake bite) driver style but have a hard time finding button heads. Maybe a square drive head would be as good. So many people have tamperless torx bits, so I'm extra paranoid about using them (although I do like the idea of JB Welding the heads).

I just looked it up and a replacement pair of taillights for Soupie is only $273, so maybe I worry too much! =D

 

[pbethel]

Keep it analog and physical with the next best thing to the Trunk Monkey:

can also trip CS gas ... just sayin' ...

Loaded with 12 gauge flare round.

 

[airline tech]

First Test - Reed Switch and operation notes

Bought a couple sets of Reed Switches from Amazon, both 1-inch and 2-inch length's
I found the 1-inch length to be weak magnet wise, so the 2-inch length appears to be the better option.

I did a simple test for operation and spacing, this design can be wired NO = Normally Open or NC = Normally Closed

From the search I did for these most have a sensing distance of 15-25mm (1/2 -1.0)

So, I mounted for testing and played with it, it will register from contacting to roughly 3/4 in spacing between the (2) (Actual Test)

So, i decided 1/2in gap would be best for spacing and since we are going to be sensing a rotating lever, I noted how far it had to move before it opened or closed the circuit.

Depending on what direction you move it (up or down) (The right-hand magnet) This will be mounted on the moving lever.
Is roughly 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch of movement required to open and close the circuit.
so, this will simulate being installed and pulling the handle.
This helps in factoring in where to actually mount it and have it operate normally.

We have (2) Options on how to wire it.
As another member pointed out, NC and NO is widely confused, and you have to pay attention to the detail of the description of it when purchasing.
The set I bought can be wired either way (NO or NC)

Option 1:
Wired NC - (Normally Closed) Circuit Complete - With Magnet Near
So, we can mount the Reed to set in a similar position when the handle is in the normal position.
Ref my Tailgate Handle - Operation Video in a previous post.
We are going to possibly have to somewhat circumvent its actually intended operation as we are dealing with a rotating lever.
So, we may have to get this to sense Up and Down movement vs (< >} side to side


Wired NC - Normally Closed (Magnet Near)

Wire NC - Away, this will be the circuit disconnect point about 1/2 in of movement from lever rotation is all it takes.
So, when the handle lever rotates the circuit opens and trips the Hood Ajar

Option 2 - Wired NO (Normally Open)
Normally Open Away - Circuit Complete (Magnet Away)

Now wired this way, we can mount the Reed Sensor (Wired Half) Askew of the Magnet Side (Right Sensor) when Tailgate is in a normal closed position, circuit is complete.

Wire NO - Normally Open (Near)
And when the Tailgate handle rotates when pulled to open it, The Wired side and the magnet will align and trip the Hood Ajar - Open the Circuit
So, for this to work, when you install the switch be sure to pull the Tailgate Handle out to ensure the 2 halves align with the handle out (as it would be pulled to open the tailgate)

There is a benefit of Option #2
If someone takes a magnet to the tailgate in an attempt to bypass the switch, they will actually trip the Hood Ajar as they will be creating the magnetic field to open the circuit.


Although the Reeds I bought should work I would like to find a set specifically rated for outdoor use.
Yes, the tailgate is weather protected from the elements, but the temperature factor may be an issue.


Here is what these are: via Amazon.

LBY 3 Sets Magnetic Reed Switch, Normally Open Closed Switch, Contact Reed Switch Personal Gap Alarm, DC 5V 12V 24V Light,with Screws, Plastic ABS Shell, White

 

[airline tech]

Those tamper screws on the inside panel of the tailgate do nothing for them stabbing a screw driving in next to the tailgate handle.

For those looking for the simplest switch add, you'll need to add a switch at the tailgate that has a closed circuit while the tailgate is closed and wiring that in series with the hood switch, then if either switch opens the BCM thinks the hood opened. I would not put the added switch on the ground side, as mentioned you have to trace that out, but even if you ID the bolt/screw it is grounded though, it could also be the ground for other systems. To me the safest option, though not the easiest, is to work at the BCM, you know which pin to work with there and if you are good with wiring, you can get an extra pin for the plug, extract the hood signal pin and put in into a new plug from there you coul have the other connection of the plug go to that extra pin you got and plug that into the BCM plug. Then on your added connector just plug in to a connector that routes to that new switch at the tailgate. than you never have to cut the OE harness and wiring.

I still prefer my idea of using Pi or such that monitors the CAN network for arm/disarm state and only activates the relay to trigger hood open signal to the BCM if the tail gate signal changes from closed to open while the system is armed.

Ok, I took a deeper look at this option but the way I read it at first was it was just a tap into power.

So, I think this is what you are referring to as depinning the BCM connector.

De-Pin (Pin #14) at BCM and relocate it to a (Added 2-Wire Connector) Female Half
The other wire of that Female Half - Repin to BCM Pin #14

The Male Half of the connector - Will Feed the Reed Switch (Input)
The Reed Will Feeback to the 2-Wire Connector (Output)

Rough Drawing:
Dashed Line - De-Pinned (Pin #14) Relocated to 2-Wire Connector
Solid Line - Re-Pinned (New Wire) to Pin #14


I have to say that yes this will work, but it is still a delicate area for some who are not familiar with de-pinning a connector.
If it gets damaged it is a costly fix.

Edit:

So, for this option, we can get a Terminal Kit (5-Terminals with wire)
De-Pin and cut off connector, Wire this connection directly to our added 2-wire connector (Butt-Spliced together.

The other unused wire on that connector we (Butt Splice) the new Terminal Pin from the kit and place it back into the BCM connector.

Then the other half (Female) of the 2-wire connector, we loop back to the Reed Switch (Input) and the Return (From the Reed Switch) will connect to the other wire on that connector.


Terminal - Ford (DU2Z-14474-AA)
du2z14474aa

• MSRP:$25.42
• Discount:$8.64 (34% off)
• Sale Price:$16.78

This Kit: Is a replacement for P/N of OE Pin - P/N 9U5T-14474-DA.

AGAIN:
This is an alternate option, but be CAREFULL on removing and reinstalling the pin

 

[airline tech]

Being that the most important factor in adding a - Handle Sense

I popped open the panel and played with ideas.

We Need To:

Fabricate a mounting bracket and or plate for the wired half.
Using the existing handle attach screw (Recessed-Screw)
Don't know how tight we could get it as it would pivot if not fully secured.

Secure the wired half to the bracket / plate with screws.

Another option is to mount the wired half in the position, using the close out panel as a mounting surface and then shim it down to match the lever half so they are even.
The wired half would be secured from the top of the sensor to the bottom of the close out panel.

The lever (white label) will rotate up (As viewed in pic) to the wired half. (With Tailgate up it will be rotating down)

The Lever (Mount) - The side of the lever is very thin and not a solid place to mount fully secure.
so if we move it to the top of the lever (Flat Surface)
Then the wired half would have to be mounted at the same height as the lever half.

I tried various mounting options, and this is the best one so far.
We need this to be a secure mount to eliminate possible errors in switch activation, and this mounting spot appears to be the best, we will have to ensure the wires are routed away from the latch open rods.

I am wired for NC in the pic - The handle is at rest (Normal Position) - So right now the circuit is open, if I pull the handle out the circuit closes.

So, for this to work we need to wire the switch as (Normally Open)

Using that logic - The circuit would be closed in this pic - (No Hood Ajar) Msg
When the handle is pulled it brings the lever side of the reed up to open the circuit and display the Hood Ajar msg and trigger the alarm (If Armed)

Grd Point:
I also took another look at the Ground Point diagram and noted 2 of the 3 wires going to that point are (20 Gauge) and one is (16 Gauge), the Hood Ajar has a 20 Gauge Ground Wire
So, we are down to one of 2 wires that is the ground we want.
The other 20 Gauge wire is coming from the Brake Fluid Level Switch

 

[airline tech]

Some Updates:

Waiting on a better-quality Reed Switch to arrive and then need to tackle a proper mount for it.

Checked voltage reading at the Hood Switch - Curious since it is a BCM voltage supply it appears to be a 5-Volt circuit instead of 12-Volts.

Toned the ground circuit from the Hood Switch to the Ground Point and verified the proper 20 Gauge wire (from the hood switch to the Grd Point (G114)
If you look at the Ground Point and follow the 2 (20 Gauge) wires back into the wire harness you will notice that (1) wire runs (Left-Towards the Hood Switch) and (1) wire runs (Right - Towards the Driver's Fender) this ground wire goes to the Brake Fluid Level Switch

So, this pinpoints it down.

Now just have to figure out a proper mount for the Reed.

I have everything supply wise except for the hopefully better-quality Reed Switch

Plans:

1. Cut the Ground Wire at G114 and Install a QD connector -(Single Wire) at this connector Pigtail a short piece of wire with a (Lug) connector that can hook back up at the Grd Point if needed to bring it back to OEM wire run.
We will leave it tucked disconnected back into the wire harness for the Tailgate Handle, Ground Extension.
The Single Wire (QD) connector allows you to disconnect the wire run (New Ground-Point) and then use the Pigtail to restore back to OEM routing.

2. Run a single wire from this point back to the Rear Bumper, near the current QD for the existing wire harness going into the Tailgate.

At this point we will install a (2-Wire) QD (Quick Disconnect)
(1) wire feeding in (Input) - Red on the new connector from the Grd Point in step 2
(1) wire (Output) - Black to a good ground point on the nearby frame

The other half of the connector will feed the Reed Switch inside the Tailgate

Tailgate Removed - Jumper Plug

We will install a secondary 2-wire connector going to the Ground Point at the nearby frame.
Both of these wires will be twisted together and going to ground.

So, when you need to remove the Tailgate, you take the wired connector coming from the Hood Switch and Connect it to the Jumper Plug

These are 2-Piece Connectors (Male & Female) (QD's)
The Jumper Plug (Connector) will be protected from weather as we will leave the other half connected (wires going nowhere) just to serve as a protective cover for the terminals, so remove this half and then connect the wire harness from the Hood Switch.

I think wiring in a few options for by-passing the Reed Switch is a good idea as I am not sure about long term reliability of the Reed Switch and giving false Hood Ajar indications and false trigger on the alarm.

1. Option 1: By-Pass, By-pass the whole circuit from Grd Point G114 at the engine bay and just disconnect the connector and place the Lug back on the Ground Point G114

2. Option 2: By-Pass, By-pass only the Tailgate wire harness by using the Jumper Plug

So, if a problem arises you have 2 Options for a temporary by-pass to the circuit until you ger a replacement Reed Switch and the Hood Ajar indication / alarm is still intact.



I will take pictures when I start the install.

 

[airline tech]

Found a better-quality Reed Switch,
Tested with a meter and this one has a better Open / Close (Sensing Trigger)
(IE) Faster and More accurate

Philmore
N.O./N.C. Magnetic Reed Switch

Part No: 30-10071

Waiting for the Temp's to climb as the same for most on this forum, below Zero Temps for the next week or so and then dive into mounting options.
I spend 40 hours a week in this for work, that's enough.

 

[airline tech]

Had a bit of free time to open it up and play with some mounting ideas.
Using Velcro and scrap wood.

Mounting Option 1:
Secure it to the Cover (with adhesive) or velcro (Wired Half)
Then secure the other half to the top of the lever

Mounting Option 2:

Secure wired half - to wood blocks or wood blocks and some fabricated metal
secure the wood block with Adhesive or Velcro

Secure other half to the side of the lever with Adhesive or Velcro

I will eventually find time to actually complete this project, I am leaning towards the wood block mounting idea, only modify it to get a better proximity alignment.

 

[got3fords]

Had a bit of free time to open it up and play with some mounting ideas.
Using Velcro and scrap wood.

Mounting Option 1:
Secure it to the Cover (with adhesive) or velcro (Wired Half)
Then secure the other half to the top of the lever

Mounting Option 2:

Secure wired half - to wood blocks or wood blocks and some fabricated metal
secure the wood block with Adhesive or Velcro

Secure other half to the side of the lever with Adhesive or Vel

I will eventually find time to actually complete this project, I am leaning towards the wood block mounting idea, only modify it to get a better proximity alignment.

Damn, you make me feel guilty for sitting on my ass having a beer.

 

[HeatXfer]

I just ran into this thread after finding the tail light theft threads: I had no idea until this week tail light theft was a thing. So now I'm paranoid. This of course got me thinking about tailgate locks and such, and voila! I found this thread.

It's great how this community is so open and willing to share some really great ideas! Thank you
Bsthroop and airline tech sharing your ideas and solutions. If it doesn't rain tomorrow I'll be running a ground wire from my hood sensor switch to the tailgate in perpetration for a reed switch.

Thanks again!

Sponsored