Switch to activate perimeter alarm if Tailgate is opened

Fawnbuster

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I think I found the answer to our problems !

Pick up truck trunk monkey!


 

Racket

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So.. if a complete solution comes together shall we call it the Bed Monkey? Tail Monkey? Gate Monkey?
 

Fawnbuster

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Hmm, surveillance monkey assist?

Automatic primate escape device APED
 


subquark

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Yes. Have tamper proof screws on the tail lights as well as the inside access panel to the tailgate to keep from getting tailgate open after tonneau is cut open. Still want something to make em think when pulling the tailgate handle
This is off-topic a bit, but since you asked about this and how they get to the tail lights (one thing to be said about my thriftiness in getting an XL - non-LED taillights!), you might also consider a tailgate lock.

I know that's not the main thing they steal, but it does have some value and can be easily removed. I do like to leave mine open on some days (like to dry out the BedRug or while slowly filling up the bed with yard cleanup over the weekend) so I installed a tailgate lock (but the hose clamp method is probably 95% as good and what I'd do if I did it again).

1704212577715.jpeg


Ford Tailgate Lock By McGard $33.31
https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/vkb3z-18168-a.html
forum posts: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...e-mail-today-for-your-ranger.1866/post-617693
(install) https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ranger-today.3511/post-625657

hose clamp method - you should be able to face the screw down and tighten it from under the truck, making it a pia to remove ...
1704212983358.jpeg


1704212245190.gif
 

Fawnbuster

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This is off-topic a bit, but since you asked about this and how they get to the tail lights (one thing to be said about my thriftiness in getting an XL - non-LED taillights!), you might also consider a tailgate lock.

I know that's not the main thing they steal, but it does have some value and can be easily removed. I do like to leave mine open on some days (like to dry out the BedRug or while slowly filling up the bed with yard cleanup over the weekend) so I installed a tailgate lock (but the hose clamp method is probably 95% as good and what I'd do if I did it again).

1704212577715.jpeg


Ford Tailgate Lock By McGard $33.31
https://www.levittownfordparts.com/sku/vkb3z-18168-a.html
forum posts: https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/thre...e-mail-today-for-your-ranger.1866/post-617693
(install) https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-ranger-today.3511/post-625657

hose clamp method - you should be able to face the screw down and tighten it from under the truck, making it a pia to remove ...
1704212983358.jpeg


1704212245190.gif
I like the hose clamp idea, never even thought of it. I've inadvertently lifted 1 end or the other of the gate out of the hinge a few times. Any idea what size it is?

I may look into buying 4 security screws to replace my oem screws thar hold the tail light I
 

kendive

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Punching through with a screwdriver, opening the tailgate- removing both taillight assemblies, all in under 2 minutes or so
You can't ever stop stuff like that. I hate it for the people dealing with this. We are in a pretty good area. My truck is either mostly in the Garage or on a Military base. It stay pretty safe.

:)
 

subquark

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I like the hose clamp idea, never even thought of it. I've inadvertently lifted 1 end or the other of the gate out of the hinge a few times. Any idea what size it is?

I may look into buying 4 security screws to replace my oem screws thar hold the tail light I
LOL, now that I have it locked, I can't measure it. But looking online, it looks like Tacos use an SAE #20 clamp (clamp for diameters of 3/4" to 1 3/4").

But, to be safe, maybe pop yours out (I used a sawhorse with a tarp or towel to rest my tailgate on without needing to disconnect the harness) and measure it. I'm pretty certain you should be able to reach the worm screw from under the bumper with a long screwdriver. I was able to fit a 3/8" ratchet under the tailgate but above the bumper when the gate was like half opened, so maybe a small ratcheting flathead like this could work too.

I also saw that some people smear JB Weld onto the worm screw making it a pretty difficult thing to defeat (or remove if you ever wanted to).

The JB Weld idea was also brought up by someone here saying to fill in your taillight screw heads too. So change to tamper-resistant Torx and cover with JB Weld.

20240102_134600.jpg
 

ControlNode

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Yes. Have tamper proof screws on the tail lights as well as the inside access panel to the tailgate to keep from getting tailgate open after tonneau is cut open. Still want something to make em think when pulling the tailgate handle
Those tamper screws on the inside panel of the tailgate do nothing for them stabbing a screw driving in next to the tailgate handle.

For those looking for the simplest switch add, you'll need to add a switch at the tailgate that has a closed circuit while the tailgate is closed and wiring that in series with the hood switch, then if either switch opens the BCM thinks the hood opened. I would not put the added switch on the ground side, as mentioned you have to trace that out, but even if you ID the bolt/screw it is grounded though, it could also be the ground for other systems. To me the safest option, though not the easiest, is to work at the BCM, you know which pin to work with there and if you are good with wiring, you can get an extra pin for the plug, extract the hood signal pin and put in into a new plug from there you coul have the other connection of the plug go to that extra pin you got and plug that into the BCM plug. Then on your added connector just plug in to a connector that routes to that new switch at the tailgate. than you never have to cut the OE harness and wiring.

I still prefer my idea of using Pi or such that monitors the CAN network for arm/disarm state and only activates the relay to trigger hood open signal to the BCM if the tail gate signal changes from closed to open while the system is armed.
 

airline tech

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Once its isolated out - It's a direct feed for ground, with zero splices into it, I looked at that in my
research for a solution.

G114 Diagram.jpg


The issue with a CAN network type of sense is:

Ref my video of operation of the Tailgate handle
The only (Sense) at the handle is (Power Lock's)
So, any tie into the CAN network is only going to see (Locked / Unlocked) status.
They have already punched through the tailgate to get it to unlock and trip the Alarm, in this setup. (And it will have to monitor that specific actuator) for movement.
If you have it opened up and manually move the actuator, the rest of the truck stays locked, if you move it from locked to unlock)

So, we have to add in a proximity sense of some kind, so it can see the handle movement, or the Tailgate being opened.
Now we can add the same type of sense on the (Lock / Unlock actuator but that defeats what we are attempting to accomplish - Fully Protect the Truck - Tailgate, Bed and all contents)


Edit:

The Tap in at the BCM won't work - Because the circuit will still see a ground from the Hood Switch and never see the Tailgate (Open Circuit)
This is the same as - Tapping into the (Power Feed) at the Hood Switch only moving the location of the Tap.
Plus, we need to make this as (Easy as Possible) for those that are not fully comfortable touching the wiring.
Depinning a connector without damage takes experience and this is a multipin connector.
Hood Ajar (Pin #14) - C-2280C (40 Pin Connector)
 
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Fawnbuster

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LOL, now that I have it locked, I can't measure it. But looking online, it looks like Tacos use an SAE #20 clamp (clamp for diameters of 3/4" to 1 3/4").

But, to be safe, maybe pop yours out (I used a sawhorse with a tarp or towel to rest my tailgate on without needing to disconnect the harness) and measure it. I'm pretty certain you should be able to reach the worm screw from under the bumper with a long screwdriver. I was able to fit a 3/8" ratchet under the tailgate but above the bumper when the gate was like half opened, so maybe a small ratcheting flathead like this could work too.

I also saw that some people smear JB Weld onto the worm screw making it a pretty difficult thing to defeat (or remove if you ever wanted to).

The JB Weld idea was also brought up by someone here saying to fill in your taillight screw heads too. So change to tamper-resistant Torx and cover with JB Weld.

20240102_134600.jpg
Well look at you with a screwdriver I don't have! Off to Lowes then lol.

It's gonna be a minute before I can crawl underneath to tighten that, I am a month postop on another full knee replacement.

If I get on the concrete floor I will be doing stupid human tricks to get back up LOL
 
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Racket

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Yeah just stick with the simians and some type of deterrent action. Does it need to be pointed out that nothing stops a determined tweaker except judicious force, what alarms and security screws are intended to do is inhibit them - it's part of a strategy - like parking in area that is easily monitored - to deter (if possible) criminals.

$50 McGuard tailgate hinge bracket, $25 in security screws and whatever this could potentially cost in custom hidden mechanisms, switches and wire is all part of hoping a thief moves to another target.
 

subquark

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Well lok at you with a screwdriver I don't have! Off to Lowes then lol.

It's gonna be a minute before I can crawl underneath to tighten that, I am a month postop on another full knee replacement.

If I get on the concrete floor I will be doing stupid human tricks to get back up LOL
Good luck with the new knee!

I have a tough time getting down and always need knee pads, or a mat, my knees can't handle it much. And getting all the way down on my side or back is a sad sight indeed!

That screwdriver is a Christmas gift and it's called a Wera Tool Check. I think Lowes may carry it or something similar (Wiha?).

It's German and seems pretty nice so far, certainly small but it has a 10mm socket and some Torx ($83). If it wasn't a gift, I probably wouldn't have gotten it - it's a bit of a luxury thing for me but it'll live in the Ranger's center console. =)

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056490-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B00I8MYMT2

Here's an actual pic of me needing help getting back up! =D

1704255203662.png
 

Fawnbuster

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Good luck with the new knee!

I have a tough time getting down and always need knee pads, or a mat, my knees can't handle it much. And getting all the way down on my side or back is a sad sight indeed!

That screwdriver is a Christmas gift and it's called a Wera Tool Check. I think Lowes may carry it or something similar (Wiha?).

It's German and seems pretty nice so far, certainly small but it has a 10mm socket and some Torx ($83). If it wasn't a gift, I probably wouldn't have gotten it - it's a bit of a luxury thing for me but it'll live in the Ranger's center console. =)

https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056490-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B00I8MYMT2

Here's an actual pic of me needing help getting back up! =D

1704255203662.png
Thanks, and I feel your pain!
Sponsored

 
 



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