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Remote Oil Filter Kit for Ranger5G?

JHC14

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I installed a funmoto oil drain valve on with the nipple so I can attach a hose. Now I just pull the hose down from the skid plate an slide my hand in an open the valve. I want to figure out something to replace the pushpins on the oil filter cover. https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f137n.html
Does this work well? How long is the attached hose?
sounds like this would be much easier than playing “catch the oil fountain“ when taking out the drain plug.
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Does this work well? How long is the attached hose?
sounds like this would be much easier than playing “catch the oil fountain“ when taking out the drain plug.
Just use my handy dandy oil diverters. Never dripped a drop, and after 5 oil changes have not yet to replace any push pins with proper removal.

DSCN8187.webp


DSCN8189.webp


DSCN8188.webp
 
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harringtondav

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Does this work well? How long is the attached hose?
sounds like this would be much easier than playing “catch the oil fountain“ when taking out the drain plug.
I installed a similar device on my 4.3 GM boat engine. A pipe thread hose fitting replaced the sump plug, and a high temp hose with a compression cap went into the fitting.

It worked well, but the hose provided would be too long for the Ranger....unless you coiled it and wire tied it to the skid plate or had a hose shop shorten the hose.

Also I can't vouch if the 1/2" sump threads match up with the Ranger's.

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dtech

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There has been a lot of talk about what oil to use in our Rangers. I'm totally sold on full synthetic and I've used Mobil 1 for my first two changes in the Ranger, however next change will be with Kirkland Synthetic. If It is good enough for Phil (our retired Ford engineer), it is good enough for me, and I got a whole bunch of it on a black Friday sale. I think I got it for something like $16 a jug (for 5 quarts). I got a bunch of Motorcraft filters from Rockauto for like $3.50 a filter, so I'm set for a while. Those oil changes will only cost me about $20! Pretty happy about that.
[/QUOTE]
IIRC a test was done on Costco, Wally Mart and Amazon synthetics and they appeared to be nearly identical, highly likely from the the same source producer, those products aren't significantly higher in price than mineral oils. Received an ad from an oil change place and they advertised $20 for "conventional" oil and $49 for full synthetic , surprised they still are able to maintain that price structure.
Youtube has videos on Ranger oil change which I found to be helpful in avoiding a mess.
 
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JHC14

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Just use my handy dandy oil diverters. Never dripped a drop, and after 5 oil changes have not yet to replace any push pins with proper removal.



DSCN8189.JPG
Thats a great idea...
You can mass produce and market this oil diverter. Sell a million for $15.99 and be able to pay someone to do it for you.
 


JHC14

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There has been a lot of talk about what oil to use in our Rangers. I'm totally sold on full synthetic and I've used Mobil 1 for my first two changes in the Ranger, however next change will be with Kirkland Synthetic. If It is good enough for Phil (our retired Ford engineer), it is good enough for me, and I got a whole bunch of it on a black Friday sale. I think I got it for something like $16 a jug (for 5 quarts). I got a bunch of Motorcraft filters from Rockauto for like $3.50 a filter, so I'm set for a while. Those oil changes will only cost me about $20! Pretty happy about that.
IIRC a test was done on Costco, Wally Mart and Amazon synthetics and they appeared to be nearly identical, highly likely from the the same source producer, those products aren't significantly higher in price than mineral oils. Received an ad from an oil change place and they advertised $20 for "conventional" oil and $49 for full synthetic , surprised they still are able to maintain that price structure.
Youtube has videos on Ranger oil change which I found to be helpful in avoiding a mess.
[/QUOTE]
Local Ford dealership wants $49 to change oil. Price doing it myself was $42+. Other dropping It off and pick up...can’t see why not to pay $7 for them to do it. Although they did forget to put the shroud back on last time. They are replacing it tomorrow.
 

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Local Ford dealership wants $49 to change oil. Price doing it myself was $42+. Other dropping It off and pick up...can’t see why not to pay $7 for them to do it. Although they did forget to put the shroud back on last time. They are replacing it tomorrow.
This is EXACTLY why I do them myself. Typically the people at dealerships who do oil changes are the newest, most inexperienced people and I flat out don't trust them. When I do it myself, I can be assured of a few things:
  • It was actually done, and done correctly (there are numerous documented cases where although someone paid for an oil change either the oil or the filter, or both were not changed).
  • I know what oil and filter were used (not some cheap junk).
  • It gives me the ability to check over the truck for other items.
As I said in my prior post, I got full synthetic oil from Costco for about $16 and filters for less than 4. So I'm at about $20 for an oil change (plus my time).
 
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harringtondav

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There has been a lot of talk about what oil to use in our Rangers. I'm totally sold on full synthetic and I've used Mobil 1 for my first two changes in the Ranger, however next change will be with Kirkland Synthetic. If It is good enough for Phil (our retired Ford engineer), it is good enough for me, and I got a whole bunch of it on a black Friday sale. I think I got it for something like $16 a jug (for 5 quarts). I got a bunch of Motorcraft filters from Rockauto for like $3.50 a filter, so I'm set for a while. Those oil changes will only cost me about $20! Pretty happy about that.
IIRC a test was done on Costco, Wally Mart and Amazon synthetics and they appeared to be nearly identical, highly likely from the the same source producer, those products aren't significantly higher in price than mineral oils. Received an ad from an oil change place and they advertised $20 for "conventional" oil and $49 for full synthetic , surprised they still are able to maintain that price structure.
Youtube has videos on Ranger oil change which I found to be helpful in avoiding a mess.
[/QUOTE]
I'm also sold on syns vs. dyno. I've used only syns for over 20 yrs in numerous vehicles, a couple lasting 21 yrs. These died from skin cancer. But the engines were great. I had to pull rocker covers on both to reseal. The innards were whistle clean.
 

slowmachine

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This is EXACTLY why I do them myself. Typically the people at dealerships who do oil changes are the newest, most inexperienced people and I flat out don't trust them.
To make things even worse, some dealerships contract oil changes out to a third party, who is provided with a workspace in the dealer service department. These people are no better than the stellar performers at Jiffy Lube and similar establishments.
 

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Does this work well? How long is the attached hose?
sounds like this would be much easier than playing “catch the oil fountain“ when taking out the drain plug.
I installed one without the nipple first an still had to remove the skid plate to not make a mess. I put a piece of hose on it that was extra long then installed the plate an cut the hose so it hung about 4" lower than the plate an tucked it back up.

I've been using Rotella gas truck 5w30 oil. I used a quart of walmart 5w30 for the sixth quart but I read store brand syth oils have recycled oil used to make them. I don't know if it's true or not.
 

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I don't trust anyone else to change my oil...if you love your truck...learn to do it yourself...
 
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harringtondav

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Same here. I'm getting older and stiffer, ...and can afford to farm out oil changes, etc. But I'm a skeptical DIY lifer. I even rotate my own tires when I have free rotation available. (bouncing on a breaker bar cheater once was one time too many. My torque wrench assures I'll be able to change the tire on the shoulder, if necessary). Vehicle on the stands once a year takes care of the important maintenance.

You rationale sums up mine.
 

Langwilliams

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I checked my oil once after driving it 5 hours to my brothers house, had the oil changed the day before at the dealership an it was a quart low. II've never checked it after a dealership change figuring it was done right an they set the fill amount. He decided to check it. After that I always checked it.

A full synthetic change at the dealership is $79 so that's another reason to it myself. With a wix, mobil 1 or K&N oil filter it's still under $40 to do it myself.
 
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harringtondav

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I posted elsewhere asking about the oil pan thread size. M12x1.75 was the answer.
I ordered a marine engine oil drain kit shown below and in the pic. DIY boaters push the hose through the bilge drain in the transom
MPI Easy Drain Oil Kit p/n 308-380. My Ranger is yapping at me about an oil change, and I wanted to install this at the same time. ...the hose is a bit too long at 42", so I'll have the local hyd hose shop shorten it to a reasonable length.

IMG_20211126_144912312.jpg
 

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To make things even worse, some dealerships contract oil changes out to a third party, who is provided with a workspace in the dealer service department. These people are no better than the stellar performers at Jiffy Lube and similar establishments.
Man don't get me started on those people, my wife took her car through there one time and they put the wrong filter on, she got 50' and it blew off along with 5 qts of oil all over the place. She called me and I spoke with the manager, they pushed the car back over the pit, cleaned it, installed the correct filter and filled it back up. I did talk him out of a free oil/filter change.
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