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A hard fast rule I've lived by for most of my life is to never discuss religion or politics. I'm amending the rule to include engine oil.

Are you using a coolant system pressure tester? If not borrow or rent one from a parts store with a closed system reservoir adapter. I can't find the test pressure spec in my service information CD, but 21 psi is normal for this type of system. I had a leak on a previous vehicle. The system held...

Looks like I'm an outlier here. I consider vehicles a functional, necessary evil. ....but I'm a tight a*s. I ordered in six of the eight new vehicles I've purchased. Lowest trim level and options that provided the functionality needed. That has always been a grind. Dealer's lots are full of top...

This is probably too simple. I recently replaced my battery which required removing several cables on the B+ terminal plate. Everything was fine for several months until I hit a few hard bumps during a trip. The truck stopped, restarted and flashed several failure messages. Panic. When I got...

I installed the PPE standard capacity pan and an OEM filter and gasket. The PPE pan and cooling fins are more substantial than shown on your Amazon pan. While I was at it I installed a Fitzstick top side dipstick. I paid the PPE premium price for a good pan.

Just a heads up. I recently replaced my battery. I searched for AGM batteries for a 2019 Ranger. Two choices came up. I went with the higher CCA and reserve. I didn't know the group size for OEM. The battery size I got fit into the tray fine and worked w/o issues. But the insulating blanket for...

I buy aftermarket WIX spin on filters. Easy access and annual changes. But for the 10R80 I went OEM. PITA to change, long service interval and mostly the transmission valve body's sensitivity to debris in the fluid. I'll save my pennies elsewhere.

I agree. Our Ranger tows our 4000# boat/trailer nicely. Other than the fuel gauge, I don't know its back there.

My UPR connections for my 2019 had the same issue. Connections were to a factory oil separator on the rear/left of the engine. Totally blind, and my meat hooks must be as large as yours. I bailed after a few hours. Then I looked at the UPR instructions for 2020 and later models where their hoses...

I'm surprised you're not getting a MIL and code. I installed a UPR catch can and immediately got the MIL and code for voltage irregularity or something else at the EGR pressure sensor. Turns out I had a loose hose connector in the system. Easily fixed and the code didn't return. If your cracked...

True enough. I hate to admit it, but my brother is a litigation lawyer. He mostly represents insurance companies trying to pass on their costs for fire loss claims. 40% cut to his firm for a win. I told him if he just stayed out of it and just let the insurance companies eat their claims vs...

GM is at risk for a multi billion dollar settlement for design and manufacturing defects in their 6.2L V8 L87 engines. The story isn't too different from Ford's 10R80 problems. I wonder if 10R80 customer complaints will result in a similar action...

I hauled a lot of lumber etc. with the Durango and a '95 Caravan using canoe racks and ratchet straps. I had the Caravan nearly on its jounce bumpers a few times hauling laminate flooring, yard pavers, concrete sacks, blocks and such. I've loaded the Ranger many times since we've owned it, but...

I'll celebrate. Our Ranger is the first p/u we've owned. Our '98 Durango handled boat towing and gear handling well enough. But hauling yard waste was a royal pain, even with all seats folded away. My wife was finally fed up and said, loudly "I want a truck!". I looked to the sky and made a...

Side note to my previous comment. I Googled the group size for the Ranger OEM battery before buying the new battery. Two sizes came back. I bought the AGM size that had the same CCA and reserve as the OEM. I have the CD factory manual and reviewed the R&R process. It showed a simple removal of...

I recently changed my OEM battery because it was 6+ years old, and I wanted to change it on my terms. I'd been occasionally seeing messages about battery saver, standby or something similar for over two yrs, but the engine cranked fine at -15F. After 6+ yrs the original battery didn't owe me...

Strange. I was a bit sloppy installing mine. I used my adjustable torque cordless drill/driver. First pass at at the lowest torque, second at a higher torque that 'felt' like spec. No leaks. No sealants. The gasket has two rubber grommets to align and hold position. Likely you got this correct...

This is the most important point in my mind. I did a ULV and filter change last yr around 32K miles, along with the PPE pan and Fitzstick and a dose of Lubegard. I started boat towing with a '95 Caravan 3.3L auto with 3K# on the hitch. I accelerated with 'up pedal' shifting, allowing the torque...

I give the cold start and more frequent fluid changes some credence. By the time I start the truck, get strapped in and turn off auto start/stop I never have an issue with a hard P-R shift to back out of the garage. By the time I creep down our 30' driveway I have at least a minute on the clock...

We just got through a very cold snap. -15F. I also experienced a very hard 2-3 shift. The only shift issue in six years. For the rest of the cold snap I crept up on the acceleration until I got a good 2-3 shift, then all good after.