Remote Oil Filter Kit for Ranger5G?

harringtondav

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I just completed the first oil change on my Ranger. ....first class mess it was.

I'm OK with removing the skid plate for sump drain access, LF tire and the bottom of the rubber shield for filter access.

But the filter dribbles everywhere. I saw this coming before I loosened it, so I had cardboard and a second catch pan placed under the filter. Nope. I could hear it dribbling for several seconds before the oil spilled behind the wheel hub. The truck suspension will dribble oil for days. ...more cardboard.

If I knew what I was in for I'd have asked about a remote oil filter kit first, and had it ready.

So, has anyone out there installed one? If so which product? And where is the filter finally located?
Thanks,
Dave
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harringtondav

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You donā€™t have to remove the skid plate to drain the oil.
You donā€™t need to remove the left front wheel. A few clips and youā€™re staring at the oil filter.
Loosen the filter and it drains down a built in trough and into the pan you should have put there.
No need for a remote filter.
I removed the skid plate because it was directly under the sump plug. ...I'll admit the first 4-5 drained quarts shot far enough to the right to miss the plate, but the remaining vertical dribble would have pooled up in the skid plate and made a mess.

I'm with you on the oil filter trough. ...now that I know where to place the pan.

But I'm at a loss about the few clips you mention. I removed four plastic trim rivets to raise the rubber flap left of the filter. I recall previous posts that tire removal isn't necessary. I'm a small guy, able to snake into tight spaces. So next time I'll have to see if I can snake over that tire to get to things.
 

Blue Streak

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Check out this thread,
Has anyone done a complete 2019 Ranger oil/filter change by themselves yet?

lots of advice. I have also done my own without spilling a drop.
 

Obijack

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Negative ghost rider, the pattern is full.
 

RedlandRanger

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But I'm at a loss about the few clips you mention. I removed four plastic trim rivets to raise the rubber flap left of the filter.
I wonder if this is your problem - you took off the LOWER plastic rivets? I've only needed to take off the UPPER 3 rivets and the rubber shield just folds down. Turn the wheels to the right (if you aren't rotating your tires) and the filter is very easily accessible.
 


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harringtondav

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I wonder if this is your problem - you took off the LOWER plastic rivets? I've only needed to take off the UPPER 3 rivets and the rubber shield just folds down. Turn the wheels to the right (if you aren't rotating your tires) and the filter is very easily accessible.
Good to know. ...I hope I remember. I can see where dropping the top of the shield will give better access over the tire...especially when rotated to optimum.

Thanks Redland Ranger.
 

RedlandRanger

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Good to know. ...I hope I remember. I can see where dropping the top of the shield will give better access over the tire...especially when rotated to optimum.

Thanks Redland Ranger.
With the top 3 rivets removed and the rubber shield folded down, it is a straight on access. I was really worried it was going to be a big deal when it was announced (it was said you had to remove the wheel), but it turns out it is one of the easiest oil filters to get to that I've worked on. Easy to see, easy to access, easy to remove. And you definitely DON'T need to remove the wheel to gain access to it.
 
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harringtondav

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With the top 3 rivets removed and the rubber shield folded down, it is a straight on access. I was really worried it was going to be a big deal when it was announced (it was said you had to remove the wheel), but it turns out it is one of the easiest oil filters to get to that I've worked on. Easy to see, easy to access, easy to remove. And you definitely DON'T need to remove the wheel to gain access to it.
Thanks. I love DIY forums. ...I belong to a few more. On some I can actually help others.

So do you have a skid plate? ....per above I can't see anything but a mess w/o removing it.
 

RedlandRanger

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Thanks. I love DIY forums. ...I belong to a few more. On some I can actually help others.

So do you have a skid plate? ....per above I can't see anything but a mess w/o removing it.
I do - and I remove it - but it is just the small skid plate (not the large frontal plate) - 4 bolts and it is off - and you don't even need to actually remove 2 of them (just loosen them) - they are slotted. It takes me WAY longer to remove the fiber "airflow doohickey pan" (I have no idea what you call it) under our C-Max - and most new sedans have something similar now. Doing 4 bolts for a skid plate is a piece of cake.
 

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I installed a funmoto oil drain valve on with the nipple so I can attach a hose. Now I just pull the hose down from the skid plate an slide my hand in an open the valve. I want to figure out something to replace the pushpins on the oil filter cover. https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f137n.html
 

KJRR

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Obijack

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I use my Ford pass points for oil changes. Let the dealer deal with it (pun intended). I do enough wrench turning on the motorcycles.
 
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harringtondav

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I do - and I remove it - but it is just the small skid plate (not the large frontal plate) - 4 bolts and it is off - and you don't even need to actually remove 2 of them (just loosen them) - they are slotted. It takes me WAY longer to remove the fiber "airflow doohickey pan" (I have no idea what you call it) under our C-Max - and most new sedans have something similar now. Doing 4 bolts for a skid plate is a piece of cake.
Yea, learning curve. I buzzed off all four to find I only needed to remove two.
We had a Sebring with the same fiber PIA cover. I cut a slot into it with a hole saw for the drain plug, and alum. duct taped over the slot. The filter was accessible and mounted vertical, so little spillage.
The Cherokee and Dart have simple drop down covers. Dart also has a top drop in cartridge oil filter on top. Nice, but I need my 27 mm socket to remove it.

My Ranger started yapping at me about changing the oil at 5K mi., so I did. I changed with full syn and a Wix filter. ...next time I'll reset the alert and go 7-9K mi like I've always done with syn with no issues.
 

Rp930

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Correction: memory fade. I did remove the small skid plate. 2 bolts and loosen 2.
 

RedlandRanger

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Yea, learning curve. I buzzed off all four to find I only needed to remove two.
We had a Sebring with the same fiber PIA cover. I cut a slot into it with a hole saw for the drain plug, and alum. duct taped over the slot. The filter was accessible and mounted vertical, so little spillage.
The Cherokee and Dart have simple drop down covers. Dart also has a top drop in cartridge oil filter on top. Nice, but I need my 27 mm socket to remove it.

My Ranger started yapping at me about changing the oil at 5K mi., so I did. I changed with full syn and a Wix filter. ...next time I'll reset the alert and go 7-9K mi like I've always done with syn with no issues.
The easiest one oil filter I ever did was one of our Saturns. It was a cartridge filter on the top of engine, right out in clear view. The next easiest is probably the Accord I got from my mom - it has the filter on the passenger side - access from the wheel well (similar to the Ranger except you don't have to move any rubber shield, just turn the tires).

There has been a lot of talk about what oil to use in our Rangers. I'm totally sold on full synthetic and I've used Mobil 1 for my first two changes in the Ranger, however next change will be with Kirkland Synthetic. If It is good enough for Phil (our retired Ford engineer), it is good enough for me, and I got a whole bunch of it on a black Friday sale. I think I got it for something like $16 a jug (for 5 quarts). I got a bunch of Motorcraft filters from Rockauto for like $3.50 a filter, so I'm set for a while. Those oil changes will only cost me about $20! Pretty happy about that.
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