Differentials and Transfer Case Fluid Change

Trigganometry

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I'd be more mindful of transmission fluid change along with the differential before the rear end became a concern. All these recommended mileage changes are listed somewhere. Going to be up there in miles before needed though. That is unless these is an issue.
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HenryMac

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There is another thing happening in the mesh zone during operation. There is a hydroscopic layer of fluid between the theoretical contact points. Thin as it may be it keeps wear and friction at bay. It happens naturally and even with extreme pressures will remain. When fluid gets aerated it disturbs this from happening. If surfaces don't line up correctly as you pointed out this also is detrimental breaking down the intended operation.

I learned this all from an old timer years ago. He was a genius in fluid dynamics and hydraulics. They use to design massive machine bearings that were solid cones that ran on a hydroscopic layer of hydraulic fluid at 7 psi. Those were built 65 years ago and still in operation today on centerless grinders.
What you are talking about is bearing journals like at the crankshaft bearings, rod journals, etc.

What you are saying is not true at all on a ring and pinion. There is significant wear as the gears mesh and break in.

That's why the magnetic drain plug looks like it has hair on it.... metal particles.
 

I_smell_like_diesel

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As a Mechanic, I only change differential lube based on a visual inspection. Shavings are usually left over from manufacturing, especially at such low millage. You such be more concerned if there are broken off chunks of metal. Metal "pulp" or "sludge" on the magnet is normal wear. I've rebuild Dana 80's and Sterling 10.5's that were in pretty poor shape.... especially when folks weren't their cluch packs out and start eating up spider gears. Catch it soon enough.... all is forgiven with a set of seals, bearings, hard/soft parts, and a skilled mechanic.
 

hans1312

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Honda motorcycles with hypoid final drive made in Marysville, OH factory added Moly to the gear oil. DIY owners were mystified by the black gear oil when drained. I added a dab of Moly grease for most all of my final drive oil changes.
 

Engmus

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Thread Revival.

So I did my 19's Rear, PTU and Front fluids at about 1000 miles, I just hit around 30k, and figured I'd do them again to be safe, its not expensive and its good preventative.

I'm glad I did (at least for the rear, the PTU and Front were likely just fine).

The rear (which when I did it at 1k miles, had much the same as everyone else with some slimey metal and small chunks) came out again with small chunks.

These were not metal bits that I could rub between my fingers like a film, but small metallic pieces.

Is this normal ? It seems like it isn't normal, a picture is worth a thousand words and I wish I grabbed some but I was tight on time. I don't have any abnormal conditions or sounds while driving. I don't tow, haul (often) or race my truck despite the modifications in my signature, its a commute vehicle for me.

Much appreciated for any information.
 


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Thread Revival.

So I did my 19's Rear, PTU and Front fluids at about 1000 miles, I just hit around 30k, and figured I'd do them again to be safe, its not expensive and its good preventative.

I'm glad I did (at least for the rear, the PTU and Front were likely just fine).

The rear (which when I did it at 1k miles, had much the same as everyone else with some slimey metal and small chunks) came out again with small chunks.

These were not metal bits that I could rub between my fingers like a film, but small metallic pieces.

Is this normal ? It seems like it isn't normal, a picture is worth a thousand words and I wish I grabbed some but I was tight on time. I don't have any abnormal conditions or sounds while driving. I don't tow, haul (often) or race my truck despite the modifications in my signature, its a commute vehicle for me.

Much appreciated for any information.
Sounds the same as mine. I’m now at 44K and still running strong so it should be okay to find a few small ones in the first few changes
 

Langwilliams

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I changed my rear diff fluid today. I went with Harvest King 80w90 synthetic gear oil. The oil was dirty an the magnet on the drain plug was covered in metal paste. Lowering the spare would have made access to put the lube bottle into the drain hole but I just put some plastic tubing on the spout an squeezed away. I have 24K on the ranger now. I didn't do the front or transfer case since I've only use four wheel drive a handful of times for probably less than 10 miles.

dif plug.jpg
 

Sashimi_Moto

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I changed my rear diff fluid today. I went with Harvest King 80w90 synthetic gear oil. The oil was dirty an the magnet on the drain plug was covered in metal paste. Lowering the spare would have made access to put the lube bottle into the drain hole but I just put some plastic tubing on the spout an squeezed away. I have 24K on the ranger now. I didn't do the front or transfer case since I've only use four wheel drive a handful of times for probably less than 10 miles.
Do your front transfer case. It's easy, everything in there is always spinning and since it's not a lot of fluid it should be changed pretty often.
 

JohnnyO

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Redline says the 75w-90 is a direct replacement for any diff requiring 80w-90.
Owner's manual calls for 80w-90 conventional gear lube meeting Ford Spec xxxxx.
I researched it a while ago and Redline 75w-90 was the only synthetic gear lube I found that met the Ford Spec in the manual.
 

JohnnyO

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There is less wear as things break in.
On the Sport Trac I had before I changed the rear axle and transfer case lube at 30k and they both drained out like tar. At 60k they were a little better. At 90k they both drained out clean. At 120k and 150k both were still clean so I let it go until 200k.
I had the Valvoline Quicky Lube do the front axle every 50k. On older Rangers/Explorers/Sport Tracs there is no drain plug on the front diff and it's basically impossible to do it yourself with the diff in the truck since there is no room between the diff cover and crossmember. $59.99 well-spent.
 

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I changed my front and rear differentials, transfer case and transmission fluids.

Rear differential was dirty with the typical metal flakes. Front was clean. Transfer case was little dirty with some metal. Transmission was about 1.5-2qts low from the factory.
Easy maintenance to do and let’s me sleep a little better. ?
 

tit64

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I changed my front and rear differentials, transfer case and transmission fluids.

Rear differential was dirty with the typical metal flakes. Front was clean. Transfer case was little dirty with some metal. Transmission was about 1.5-2qts low from the factory.
Easy maintenance to do and let’s me sleep a little better. ?
Hello,
What is the shop manual procedure for the transmission oil change , is the filter fixed on pan like newer Rams , which oil is recommended please .

Thanks
Terry
 

landiscarrier

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Hello,
What is the shop manual procedure for the transmission oil change , is the filter fixed on pan like newer Rams , which oil is recommended please .

Thanks
Terry
You have to use the Mercon ULV or equal. We have a fluid pump so we inserted the hose in the fill plug and proceeded to “suck out” about 5.5 quarts of fluid. We then dropped the pan. Made it much easier with most of the fluid out of the pan. The filter in held onto the trans by 2 bolts and a rubber flange that you have to reuse. Bolted it back up and added fluid to the correct level on the dipstick.

technically it’s not a full fluid change since you’re really only changing about 1/2 of the capacity of the trans.
 

tit64

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You have to use the Mercon ULV or equal. We have a fluid pump so we inserted the hose in the fill plug and proceeded to “suck out” about 5.5 quarts of fluid. We then dropped the pan. Made it much easier with most of the fluid out of the pan. The filter in held onto the trans by 2 bolts and a rubber flange that you have to reuse. Bolted it back up and added fluid to the correct level on the dipstick.

technically it’s not a full fluid change since you’re really only changing about 1/2 of the capacity of the trans.
Hello,
Is it a small dipstick like the one on the F-150 ?

Which temperature do you need to reach to read the level ?

The pump is the best way to get most of the trans fluid pumped to avoid a mess for sure , you are right , I'd like to know if there is a method to get the cooler and that torque converter flushed out too ?

Thanks for getting back Landis
 

Langwilliams

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Is it a small dipstick like the one on the F-150 ?
Yes it is. Right behind the exhaust so using it at operating temp is sketchy. I watched a video where they talked about the numbers on the dipstick an they said to take the cold reading an add one number to it for the hot level since it expands about 1 number. While not an exact reading it won't get you burned. It's too cold out now to mess around but I might take a cold reading then a hot reading sometime to see if this works on the ranger pan.
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