Transfer Case Fluid Change - Completed!

[DRVMN]

I just changed the transfer case fluid on my 2021 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4. 55,390 miles. The drain and fill bolts required a 10 mm hex head/Allen socket to remove. Both bolts were easy to remove without any issues, and yes - I started by removing the fill bolt first in the event the drain bolt would not loosen. I live in Minnesota, where our roads are heavily salted in the winter, but no signs of corrosion on either bolt. The fluid was dark, as expected, but no signs of any problems - did not smell burned, no visible chunks of metal or debris in the fluid, and nothing out of the ordinary on the drain bolt magnet. I did purchase new crush washers and they were around $13 each. Not trying to start a debate on whether they should be changed or not - it was my choice, and $26 isn’t going to break my bank account. I’ve owned a few Honda vehicles and they always had crush washers for drain plug washers, so it’s something I replace out of habit and good practice. I used Ford Motorcraft Mercon LV Automatic Transmission Fluid (Not Motorcraft ULV Transmission Fluid, which is used for the automatic transmission). Check your Owner's Manual because there is a difference! (Not trying to start a debate on which brand transmission fluid is the best to use . . . I use OEM and have never had an issue). Both bolts were torqued to 18 ft.-lbs. Purchase two quarts of transmission fluid. The Owner's Manual calls for 1.2 liters. I used one quart, plus approximately 10 ounces, and at that point, fluid started to slowly trickle out of the filler hole. I used a hand pump and it took about 10 minutes of my time to pump fluid back into the transfer case.

Crush washer/seal part number - Ford: AB3Z-7482-A.

On a side note - I used some of the extra transmission fluid to change the fluid on my tailgate damper. Now it operates smoother than ever. That is peace of mind that money cannot buy!!! Imagine how will I will sleep tonight! May change the hood support strut oil too, but one job at a time.

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[5thranger]

Better take care of that damper, new ones are going to get expensive now that the CEO is building a McMansion.

 

[Ranger Mel]

The Ford tech I talked to said if you use the UUULV fluid in the dampers they will read your mind and open/close as you look at them. No need to pop the hood or unlock the tailgate. Amazing stuff I tell ya!

 

[JohnnyO]

Done mine twice now. I used Redline D6 ATF, it meets the Ford Spec in the owner's manual. You don't have to make the plugs real right, just 18 ft. lb.

 

[Cmar]

Did mine at ~100,000 Km ~ 60,000 miles. I did it mainly because my front driveshaft seal was weeping, a common fault on Px1 (2011-2015) Aus spec Rangers. For later (2016-2022 Px2, 3) models Ford redesigned the seal / flange assembly. The new assembly is backwards compatible with the earlier model, in fact is the only repair part available now, but as changing it is a PITA not to mention expensive, I decided to try Valvoline Max Life fluid first as it claims to help with weepy seals. Well it did actually work, took a few weeks but eventually stopped completely. So I'll try to change it ever 50,000 Km from now on along with the auto fluid.

 

[VESH]

Make sure you have a pump ready to put the fluid in. A funnel won’t cut it

 

[Cmar]

Make sure you have a pump ready to put the fluid in. A funnel won’t cut it

True that! I used a repurposed garden sprayer (a little 1 litre one) remove the jet and put on a pvc tube. Put the oil in and pump it up! Works a treat.

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