Did my own oil change with an unexpected find

[Bludrok]

If your going to change your own oil, do yourself a favor and get yours
Elf A drain valve. Valvomax or Fumato, and never worry about stripping the drain plug again. A lot less messy too.

I second this. Note that you need an extension like this one to be able to get the Fumoto to screw on.

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[Joyride]

I second this. Note that you need an extension like this one to be able to get the Fumoto to screw on.

I see there's multiple Fumoto valve options...which one you guys suggest?

 

[McDeuce]

Yes

Probably used a crescent wrench or pliers ??, or God knows what ..

 

[THLONE]

So, the drain bolt was stripped but the mechanic used it anyway. Yes after a few oil changes the clips will need to be replaced. Note to backyard mechanics: have an extra drain plug, extra clips, proper tools, a dipstick that rises and an Elf.

 

[HenryMac]

Dealerships and oil change places often strip the oil pan bolt. Because the oil pan on newer cars are often made of aluminum, the manufacturers size the head just a little bit smaller than spec. The intention is that the bolt's head strips before the aluminum thread does. If the mechanic uses a 12-point socket, then there is a high likelyhood of stripping the head on the bolt.

This sounds like an urban legend?

I've changed oil on every vehicle we've owned since 1977. Chevrolet, GMC, Pontiac, Chrysler, Jeep, Ford, Honda, Toyota, John Deere, Briggs and Stratton..... I've never experienced an oil drain plug that the head was undersized.

More likely somebodies using standard wrenches on metric fasteners... like a 1/2" on a 12mm.

I also don't remember any aluminum drain pan bolts? That seems like a problem looking for a place to happen.

So, the drain bolt was stripped but the mechanic used it anyway. Yes after a few oil changes the clips will need to be replaced. Note to backyard mechanics: have an extra drain plug, extra clips, proper tools, a dipstick that rises and an Elf.

The bolt head was rounded over. Threads were not stripped. That's why he had to use a nut extractor.

 

[HenryMac]

So, the drain bolt was stripped but the mechanic used it anyway. Yes after a few oil changes the clips will need to be replaced. Note to backyard mechanics: have an extra drain plug, extra clips, proper tools, a dipstick that rises and an Elf.

The bolt head was rounded over. Threads were not stripped. That's why he had to use a nut extractor.

 

[LoneRNGR]

I've never experienced an oil drain plug that the head was undersized.

This is easy to verify. Put your wrench or socket on there and see if it has a little bit of play.

 

[LoneRNGR]

I also don't remember any aluminum drain pan bolts? That seems like a problem looking for a place to happen.

The oil pan is aluminum. The bolt is steel. Seems like it’s galvanized, but I’m not certain.

 

[Canadian Ranger]

Speaking of fluid changes, am I the only one irritated that there's no drain plug in the transmission pan?
I occasionally do an online search for an aftermarket one with a drain plug.

 

[Bludrok]

I see there's multiple Fumoto valve options...which one you guys suggest?

F-137 or F-107 (I dunno what the differences are). The threads are M12-1.75. I prefer the one with a nipple, because you can attach a 3/8" ID hose for super clean and easy oil changes.

Don't forget the extension I previously mentioned.

 

[JimJa]

@CanadianRanger. Re. Oil. I use AmSoil and have for a number of years. My worry is not the engine, it will last longer than I'll be alive. My worry is the turbo. At idle it spins at 50K at WOT its close to 200K. Then there is start/stop. The turbo spinning at over 100K and when stopped the engine shuts down, i.e., no lube and no water cooling. Common sense tells me that is not good for long turbo life. So I want full synthetic. This is particularly true in climates with wide temperature variations - hot and cold. In temperate climates I wouldn't worry much about it. AmSoil and Pennzoil Ultra are two full synthetics, there are others but those are two that come to mind. BUT, Ford dealers buy oil in bulk and will tell you it's synthetic. It truth there is a better than even chance its a blend. Ford makes a full synthetic but you have to ask for it. Oil itself doesn't wear out, it's the additive package that is the consumable. Synthetic base stock is much more stable and requires significantly less additives. It also - this is my concern - gets to where it's suppose to be sooner and sticks around after shutdown longer, in hot and cold climates. A lot also depends upon how long you keep your vehicles. If you trade every couple of years, don't worry about it. Buy the cheap stuff. Increase quality the longer you keep your vehicles.

@CanadianRanger. Transmission drain. Most dealers these days disconnect a transmission line and just pump in new fluid until it comes out the other end of the line clear. I'm okay with that others may want to drop the pan and that's okay too.

Drain plug. Note the picture in a previous post. Note where the gasket resides. The plug doesn't need to be given "Farmer's torque" (Farmer's Torque = tighten until it twists off and back off 1/2 turn). A little more than snug is fine.

 

[D Fresh]

@CanadianRanger. Re. Oil. I use AmSoil and have for a number of years. My worry is not the engine, it will last longer than I'll be alive. My worry is the turbo. At idle it spins at 50K at WOT its close to 200K. Then there is start/stop. The turbo spinning at over 100K and when stopped the engine shuts down, i.e., no lube and no water cooling. Common sense tells me that is not good for long turbo life. So I want full synthetic. This is particularly true in climates with wide temperature variations - hot and cold. In temperate climates I wouldn't worry much about it. AmSoil and Pennzoil Ultra are two full synthetics, there are others but those are two that come to mind. BUT, Ford dealers buy oil in bulk and will tell you it's synthetic. It truth there is a better than even chance its a blend. Ford makes a full synthetic but you have to ask for it. Oil itself doesn't wear out, it's the additive package that is the consumable. Synthetic base stock is much more stable and requires significantly less additives. It also - this is my concern - gets to where it's suppose to be sooner and sticks around after shutdown longer, in hot and cold climates. A lot also depends upon how long you keep your vehicles. If you trade every couple of years, don't worry about it.

This is not 1982. You don't need a turbo timer.

And nobody cares to buy your snake oil.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Just did my own oil change after taking to the dealer for oil changes the past 3 times, the process was easier than expected but the oil pan bolt was already stripped and the oil filter cover clips were broke, never again will I bring it to the dealer, I also removed 7 quarts of oil!
Im not sure how much of that is fuel but i doubt it was a full quart, I switched to Amsoil with 6.1 quarts, I will change at 5k and see how many quarts I pull out then.

Hi DR,

If I recall correctly, the bolt head on the oil pan plug is 15mm...I bet the "tech" used a us wrench which will not fit well on 15mm

 

[JohnnyO]

My wife got a new Chrysler minivan a few years ago and the first three oil changes were free at the dealer. Okay, fine. The first time I went to change the oil I could not get the drain plug off. This included putting a floor jack under the wrench. I rounded the corners a bit so I stopped before I made it worse. Bought a new drain plug and took it to the shop that my then-employer used for their vehicles. When I picked it up the guy at the shop said, ""Yeah, you weren't going to get that plug off."

 

[Rangerwig]

Just did my own oil change after taking to the dealer for oil changes the past 3 times, the process was easier than expected but the oil pan bolt was already stripped and the oil filter cover clips were broke, never again will I bring it to the dealer, I also removed 7 quarts of oil!
Im not sure how much of that is fuel but i doubt it was a full quart, I switched to Amsoil with 6.1 quarts, I will change at 5k and see how many quarts I pull out then.

I just changed mine at 4500 miles mobil 1 with mobil one filter total cost 35.00 and satisfaction that it was done right!

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