Battery change ???s

[Tom_C]

I just this morning got the message from the ford app that my remote functions were disabled to save the battery. My battery is right around 4 years old, and I hit my 3 year anniversary in March. I guess it's time to replace my battery.

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[Nellieg]

Maybe, you can also try to desulfate and recover battery... I hit that point originally then tried some of the battery recovery techniques in here.

 

[subquark]

Everyone talking about poopie battery life led me to get a real battery meter, well, an economical one.

And this is on my battery that's "fully" charged by the CTEK (in fact, and maybe this is bad, but it's connected as I tested it!).

This doesn't look so good to me but I don't know what it really means. I selected AGM and set 760 CCA ...

 

[Frenchy]

Everyone talking about poopie battery life led me to get a real battery meter, well, an economical one.

And this is on my battery that's "fully" charged by the CTEK (in fact, and maybe this is bad, but it's connected as I tested it!).

This doesn't look so good to me but I don't know what it really means. I selected AGM and set 760 CCA ...

Some good information if you as me. More or less tells you that you need to look at another battery. Your call on where you go to get the new one, but I certainly recommend spending the money on a good one

 

[subquark]

Some good information if you as me. More or less tells you that you need to look at another battery. Your call on where you go to get the new one, but I certainly recommend spending the money on a good one

After posting, I saw that it says REPLACE in a red banner up top, derr ... =D

Thanks Frenchy for cluing me in, so it really is bad, bummer. =(

Is that covered with warranty? 2022 with 6K miles, plus an ESP (8/80K).

I've never had car warranty stuff done and am used to buying batteries, etc.

Guess this explains those "shutting stuff down to conserve battery" messages.

And, @AzScorpion, I thought 303 would spare me from this? What about the regen charging from the damper? It's slow enough to power my entire little town! =p

 

[Frenchy]

After posting, I saw that it says REPLACE in a red banner up top, derr ... =D

Thanks Frenchy for cluing me in, so it really is bad, bummer. =(

Is that covered with warranty? 2022 with 6K miles, plus an ESP (8/80K).

I've never had car warranty stuff done and am used to buying batteries, etc.

Guess this explains those "shutting stuff down to conserve battery" messages.

And, @AzScorpion, I thought 303 would spare me from this? What about the regen charging from the damper? It's slow enough to power my entire little town! =p

Factory warranty wise it would be covered under the 3/36.

For your factory extended warranty it should cover that most likely but you might have a deductible to pay depending. I would double check the contract with it.

 

[airline tech]

Bear in mind that the Top-Don type testers use resistance as a factor for the test.
You can get varying results, where you hook up is the key
I suspect you just need to get a better connection. (Top-Done) connectors.
Since it is almost imposible to get a direct connection to the Battery Posts (when installed)
Use the small stud (next to the post (+) and then connect directly to the (-) posts

As a reference - I connect the (+) to the stud by the green arrow as the clamps for the Top-Don will not fit into the recessed space of the battery terminal

This is not a precise test, but it is the best testing hookup locations we have, to provide semi accurate results without pulling the cables and direct testing the battery posts.

 

[Nellieg]

You might want to desulfate your battery...might be able to get it in better shape. Desulfate/ recovery mode a few times with the BMS disconnected. Others have brought the battery back from the dead or you can buy a fresh battery... Your call if you want to deal with it or not

 

[Chris M]

After posting, I saw that it says REPLACE in a red banner up top, derr ... =D

Thanks Frenchy for cluing me in, so it really is bad, bummer. =(

Is that covered with warranty? 2022 with 6K miles, plus an ESP (8/80K).

I've never had car warranty stuff done and am used to buying batteries, etc.

Guess this explains those "shutting stuff down to conserve battery" messages.

And, @AzScorpion, I thought 303 would spare me from this? What about the regen charging from the damper? It's slow enough to power my entire little town! =p

I had a battery go bad while the truck was under warranty and the dealer replaced it. That said, it went bad bad. I don't know what they'll do if yours is only kinda bad.

 

[airline tech]

However, if you have a verified good connection, for testing purposes, then the results you have of IR - 4.98 is high, needs to be in the low to mid 3's (average) for a good battery, 3.2 to 3.6 range when using the Top-Don tester.
The IR and CCA - readings are related to each other, the lower the IR the higher the CCA will be.

 

[subquark]

I had a battery go bad while the truck was under warranty and the dealer replaced it. That said, it went bad bad. I don't know what they'll do if yours is only kinda bad.

Hmm, that makes sense and I appreciate your perspective. I suppose I've got nothing to lose asking them to look at it.

I'd probably prefer to get a higher quality battery on my own dime, but at the same time, I don't want to feel like a chump and second guess my own decision.

Some folks here have gotten decent mileage out of their batteries. I'd like to think that my steady use of the CTEK would keep it in good shape, but there are bad batteries out there ...

 

[subquark]

However, if you have a verified good connection, for testing purposes, then the results you have of IR - 4.98 is high, needs to be in the low to mid 3's (average) for a good battery, 3.2 to 3.6 range when using the Top-Don tester.
The IR and CCA - readings are related to each other, the lower the IR the higher the CCA will be.

Thanks for the specs, I don't have a frame of reference for this.

I'm so old school in my mechanical stuff and this is new to me (and interesting).

I appreciate you giving me this concrete info to help me learn and understand it better.

I'll do more testing with it off the CTEK and after sitting a few hours. And I'll make sure I have good connections. I was able to directly clamp the ground but was on a bolt for the hot.

I'll also do the crank test. I've never used a dedicated battery tester, only a Fluke multimeter. Hmm, I take that back, I think I used a really old meter like this:

Thanks again!

 

[subquark]

Thanks everybody on the awesome info, really helps me understand what it all means.

That resistance one is toast - as high as 5!

I made an appontment for the dealer to test with their big tester. We'll see how that goes on Tuesday.

My battery is probably as good as it can ever get, the CTEK mxs5.0 desulphates and I use it quite a bit (more than once a week on average).

If they heehaw around with warranty, I'll probably scour the forum for the batteries you all like best. Back in my heyday it was a big Diehard - for a while, I ran dual Diehards in that FJ40.

Today I have that same piece of mind with a battery jumper (or, at least, I hope so!). =p

Thanks again and I'll report back with what the dealer says (plus bring the TopDong to test after they tell me whatever). =D

at least it's charging (this is after only one start, after the pic below)

this reading is just a few minutes before the top one (before doing charging test)

 

[AzScorpion]

I had a battery go bad while the truck was under warranty and the dealer replaced it. That said, it went bad bad. I don't know what they'll do if yours is only kinda bad.

Hmm, that makes sense and I appreciate your perspective. I suppose I've got nothing to lose asking them to look at it.

I'd probably prefer to get a higher quality battery on my own dime, but at the same time, I don't want to feel like a chump and second guess my own decision.

Some folks here have gotten decent mileage out of their batteries. I'd like to think that my steady use of the CTEK would keep it in good shape, but there are bad batteries out there ...

My '19 Ranger battery had 3 dead cells in less than 12 months. It could've (probably was) been from the heat in AZ and back then I wasn't using a Ctek maintainer which I bought right after that happened. Never had an issue with the new one the dealer installed and was still going strong 3 years later. I'd just let the dealer replace it and keep an eye on it but I'm cheap frugal and don't like spending my money unless I have to. ?

I (like you David) had always bought Die Hard batteries back in the day. Then I had one go bad within a week (dead cells) and then another only last a few months. I gave up on them and started using Interstate batteries and had good luck with them.

 

[subquark]

My '19 Ranger battery had 3 dead cells in less than 12 months. It could've (probably was) been from the heat in AZ and back then I wasn't using a Ctek maintainer which I bought right after that happened. Never had an issue with the new one the dealer installed and was still going strong 3 years later. I'd just let the dealer replace it and keep an eye on it but I'm cheap frugal and don't like spending my money unless I have to. ?

I (like you David) had always bought Die Hard batteries back in the day. Then I had one go bad within a week (dead cells) and then another only last a few months. I gave up on them and started using Interstate batteries and had good luck with them.

Thanks Dave for giving me some confidence in the Motorcraft battery, if they replace it.

If TopDon is right, 500 cranking amps isn't much for next winter.

Like you, @Chris M , I'm leary of getting good service, but Ive only done 2 oil changes with them, maybe they'll be that rare unicorn of good service!

speaking of Ford unicorns

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