Battery Replacement

Msfitoy

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My original battery last showed 13+ volts while running/charging...the new replacement is around 12.7 while running...sound about right to you guys?
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airline tech

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My original battery last showed 13+ volts while running/charging...the new replacement is around 12.7 while running...sound about right to you guys?

Well, this may have answered my unknown for my BMS testing (Post)

If we back up to this from my original post, I believe you have just answered the unknown question.:champagne:

Now for the unknown facts, it works in one of two ways, and I cannot say which one of the two is correct.

My thought is option 1 is correct, as it makes the most sense.

Option 1: As the battery ages the internal resistance increases, and the system counteracts that resistance by increasing the charging voltage to overcome it, so overtime the system is fighting hard to charge the battery but it still is monitoring the battery temp while charging thus backing off charge voltage as the battery will get hotter due to the increased internal resistance. So if this option is true, when you replace the battery without performing the BMS reset, then you will be overcharging the battery because the Algorithm has been set to charge it that way.

Option 2: As the battery ages its internal resistance increases, and the system reacts by lowering the charging system voltage to reduce the increased heat generated by that resistance, this option would show itself more in an aging battery as the system is programmed by the Algorithm to lower the charging voltage and then the battery will not be able to charge to 100% SOC. So, if this option is true, when you replace the battery without performing the BMS reset you will be undercharging the new battery because the Algorithm has been set to charge it that way.

So, one of two options is correct, I just don’t know which one, but I do know that the algorithm is in the system and it is important to do the reset to properly charge the new battery or you will possibly have charging issues sooner than expected, I am most certain this step is missed a lot and most likely will account for the early battery failures owners are experiencing after replacement. (See more info below, about BMS Resets)


So, the good is we know what the aging battery charging does as it ages, as it will be option #1.
but the bad news (depending) on which side of the fence you are on, regarding the battery charging issues the Ranger has, you are now back to factory programmed charging.

And the only way to change that is to make changes to the system like other owners have with the Tender , Disable BMS, Desulfation Charger, upping the SOC above 75% etc

I am still at factory settings for all, no issues yet for charging system, and I am on the fence on doing any changes, the Desulf does interest me though as well as upping the SOC but using a Tender or Charger is manual labor you have to commit to on a regular basis.
If I were to make a change it would be something to do (1) time and be done (easy peasy)
 

Gizmokid2005

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My original battery last showed 13+ volts while running/charging...the new replacement is around 12.7 while running...sound about right to you guys?
Yes, voltage drops as the battery charges. The higher the internal charge the lower the input voltage will be. Seeing 12.7v on a full battery is normal.
 

alcohenusa

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well, this all makes me wonder if I have a few accessories, like a winch and some lights, if I need a deluxe one like the Optima Yellow Top, or if a standard one like a Duralast Platinum will do it.

My truck was new in 2/19, and has the original battery. As the weather cools and leaves start to change, I'll be up in the mountain wilderness joy riding and camping a bit, and it's an awful lonely place to get stuck, so I think I'm going to go ahead and change it out.
You may also consider investing in something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB40-Ul...mzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840

I do not have this specific one, and there are many choices. I keep mine fully charged and always have it in whichever vehicle we take on a road trip or may leave parked at the airport, etc. Daily, it lives in whichever vehicle has the oldest battery.
 

Rp930

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I learned something interesting when I replaced my battery. I replaced it and performed the battery reset. After the replacement I began having similar symptoms; start stop not working, after parking radio shutting off quickly, etc.

I decided to charge the battery overnight, used the Ford (CTEK)charger. When it was finished I performed the battery reset again. After that it has kept the battery fully charged as designed. My assumption is the battery manager kept the voltage at whatever it saw the new battery as.

Long story short, charge the new battery BEFORE installing and perform the battery reset after installation. Battery reset procedure:
https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...a&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web
 


Gizmokid2005

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I learned something interesting when I replaced my battery. I replaced it and performed the battery reset. After the replacement I began having similar symptoms; start stop not working, after parking radio shutting off quickly, etc.

I decided to charge the battery overnight, used the Ford (CTEK)charger. When it was finished I performed the battery reset again. After that it has kept the battery fully charged as designed. My assumption is the battery manager kept the voltage at whatever it saw the new battery as.

Long story short, charge the new battery BEFORE installing and perform the battery reset after installation. Battery reset procedure:
https://www.fordservicecontent.com/...a&div=f&vFilteringEnabled=False&buildtype=web
I'm willing to bet that the battery reset just didn't work. Leaving the battery alone overnight (8-10 hours) performs calibration/reset of the BMS on its own.
 

Rp930

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I'm willing to bet that the battery reset just didn't work. Leaving the battery alone overnight (8-10 hours) performs calibration/reset of the BMS on its own.
I was under the impression the vehicle had to be locked for that to happen. It’s garaged. I think the calibration with a fully charged battery is what made the difference.
 

Gizmokid2005

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I was under the impression the vehicle had to be locked for that to happen. It’s garaged. I think the calibration with a fully charged battery is what made the difference.
Nope, just key off with doors closed, doesn't need to be locked.

1693500245287.png

Page 264 of the 4th edition manual.
 

Rp930

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Nope, just key off with doors closed, doesn't need to be locked.

1693500245287.png

Page 264 of the 4th edition manual.
In that case it had plenty of opportunities to reset. I didnt try charging the battery and then resetting for a month or so. Been fine ever since.

Anyway I just got out of the habit of fully charging a battery before installation. Its part of the job.
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