#1 Spark Plug Broke I am in hot water now!

[fob63]

Damn!

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[DonS]

 

[airline tech]

Another (Idea) as I have used a (Torx Bit) in the past for moments like this - find the right size and tap it into the boss - (the edges of the bit) will grab the boss.
I think i would take one of the old plugs and split it apart - so you have a good testing boss before actually hitting the one that is stuck in the head.
My rough guess is a T-45 to T-55 (Socket Bit) - these will be easier to find than a (easy out) combination of tools as I think you will find - it wont take much pressure to get it out as the limitation was the separation of the boss and the plug

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Another (Idea) as I have used a (Torx Bit) in the past for moments like this - find the right size and tap it into the boss - (the edges of the bit) will grab the boss.
I think i would take one of the old plugs and split it apart - so you have a good testing boss before actually hitting the one that is stuck in the head.
My rough guess is a T-45 to T-55 (Socket Bit) - these will be easier to find than a (easy out) combination of tools as I think you will find - it wont take much pressure to get it out as the limitation was the separation of the boss and the plug

I was wondering if it was the case that it’s not so badly corroded that it’s crazy tough to remove from the head, that it might even be in there no tighter than the others, and the plug fails.

Plus one on the easy out or the Torx bit. Maybe even an Internal Pipe Wrench if there is one small enough to get in there.

 

[nate237]

I was literally driving home from work today thinking, “At 60K I’m gonna change the plugs.” Now? Not a snowballs chance in hell!

Wish you the best with it OP. This really sucks. Just totally uncalled for.

I did mine at 83k and it was fine. If you can get a good look down the holes and check for water and corrosion, it will help. I bought an engine cover right after I got the truck so I had no corrosion issues. If you look and see water and rust, yeah, I'd let someone else do it.

 

[Jimmy07]

Thinking of doing it myself, when I read here that dealer wanted $800. Now maybe not.

 

[Mr.Mel]

So yes I had seen the Bulletin on water intrusion in I am guessing 2021 and did buy and install the engine cover but still water in #1. I had not seen the pipe insulation trick but will get that installed for sure and will also do some water tests to see where it is going. There is only a thin ring of the threads left inside the hole and I assume the one side of the spark plug electrode. All given in a way it seems best to pull the head as can you be sure any partial pices of the porcelin or something may have dropped into the cylinder. The bottom of the rubber spark plug boot was even discolored red from the rust. Alert to you all and be proactive in gettting this addressed t onot have this happen to you.
Really not sure what would happen if I had a shop do this change for me and it broke? Would they pay for full repairs or so oh well I am on the hook for cost to fix it?
Aprpeciate everyones sympathy and no need to send cards or donations LOL I will let you know how this pans out next week and no I am not blaming this on my Catch Can or Tailgate Damper!

 

[AzScorpion]

So yes I had seen the Bulletin on water intrusion in I am guessing 2021 and did buy and install the engine cover but still water in #1. I had not seen the pipe insulation trick but will get that installed for sure and will also do some water tests to see where it is going. There is only a thin ring of the threads left inside the hole and I assume the one side of the spark plug electrode. All given in a way it seems best to pull the head as can you be sure any partial pices of the porcelin or something may have dropped into the cylinder. The bottom of the rubber spark plug boot was even discolored red from the rust. Alert to you all and be proactive in gettting this addressed t onot have this happen to you.
Really not sure what would happen if I had a shop do this change for me and it broke? Would they pay for full repairs or so oh well I am on the hook for cost to fix it?
Aprpeciate everyones sympathy and no need to send cards or donations LOL I will let you know how this pans out next week and no I am not blaming this on my Catch Can or Tailgate Damper!

Hope things work out for you and no one would believe you if you did.

Everyone knows you'd have been too weak to break the plug from having a damper.

 

[DonS]

I bought my 2020 ford used in 2023 with 22,??? Miles on it. When it hit 26,??? The # plug blew out, they said it was from water intrusion . I did luck out and ford replaced the entire long block under warranty . That is the reason i have the engine cover and pipe insulation both.

 

[Muscleford]

I bought my 2020 ford used in 2023 with 22,??? Miles on it. When it hit 26,??? The # plug blew out, they said it was from water intrusion . I did luck out and ford replaced the entire long block under warranty . That is the reason i have the engine cover and pipe insulation both.

That pipe insulation does not interfere with the hood closing or cause any damage to the hood?

 

[DonS]

Has not yet, has been on there almost 3 years now.

 

[got3fords]

I bought my 2020 ford used in 2023 with 22,??? Miles on it. When it hit 26,??? The # plug blew out, they said it was from water intrusion . I did luck out and ford replaced the entire long block under warranty . That is the reason i have the engine cover and pipe insulation both.

It actually blew out of the engine? How does water intrusion cause that?

 

[Jason B]

It actually blew out of the engine? How does water intrusion cause that?

rusted out the plug base, I assume.

 

[Grandaccess]

I would try a #4 or #5 - Straight Fluke Easy Out - Which ever one of the (2) will grab the thread boss without expanding it - (Increasing friction) in the thread hole.
This is pretty much the (Only Option) now besides head replacement

You can find either:
Long - Straight Fluke (Extractors) + T-Handle
Or
Standard Length (Extractor) + Tap Socket + 3/8 Extension + 3/8 Ratchet

I would recommend the (Straight Fluke) over the spiral extractors for this - as you need to prevent expanding (Wedging) the remaining boss into the threads making it even more of a challenge.

Note:
I know what it takes to get it out, but would have to do some digging on the proper tool setup, with this being in a recessed well. - Which one would be the (Best Option - For Success)
I think that they make a special tool set for this as well.
I am confident that you can get it out - without head replacement, as long as you continue the baby steps and not be aggressive with it.

That was the first thing I thought, since the whole plug part came out an easyout would go right in no mess?
run the new plug in with an impact and red locktight and trade it in on a 6G?

 

[PltFX4]

Once out, time to put new in... so what is the best strategy??
Use Nickel-based or graphite base anticize?? (if so reduce dry torque number by 20%)
Skip anticize??

PS: Have you implemented Ford Technical Service Bulletin TSB 23-2011?? to help prevent future issues?? (assuming the fix actually works)

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