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Exactly... NOTE: I just installed them last evening... Couple things: 1. They supply extra bolts... but the Torx head OEM ones seem to work fine. 2. They are left and right side specific, which is not surprising and required 3. Do the bolt closest to the bumper first... leave the rear 2 alone...

The latest rage accessory... the tailgate tie downs... Hope they don't interfer with the tailgate dampers... that would be a tragedy...

If you still got it, I'll take it... PP F&F $25 + shipping... give me a total number... Ship to Zip code 55417 Let me know, thanks!

Plan B... Get a 2000-ish F-150 for $2K to $4K, spend $40K to trick it out the way you want, and still be cheaper than a new anything else... no electronics, except the good stuff... EFI, and you can add the stereo of your desires. No more nanny stuff...

Yes, there is a fair amount of room for a full size spare... I have a 275/55R20 in there no problem for summer and a 275/65R18 for winter, again no problem.

What I did not see in the article was if Ford could turn the Start Inhibit on by themselves or just the owner and those with authorized access (family, company employees of a shared vehicle, etc.) could turn it on (after they subscribed to the service which is optional). If the Flock Cameras...

Agreed, but if you can get to the end of it, hooking a shop vac to it will take care of most blockage or at least have a spot to push a (fill in the blank) up the tube to dislodge what's causing the blockage... hopefully.

You sure???

Ford Recalls Over 500,000 Broncos For Potential Engine Fire

Perhaps in the Mountains, but brake riding is not that common either except for old guys (and I'm an old guy) and ladies. Back in the '70 & '80s with single disk rotors vs ventilated rotors, more actual warping may have occurred. And back then the pad materials were way more likely to leave...

As a former automotive mechanic, I most certainly have delt with "warped" rotors and have turned many a set. But they are and always have been the exception, not the rule.

Physical warping of metal rotors is exceedingly rare. Instead, the pulsating pedal feeling is almost always caused by an uneven buildup of friction material—known as pad deposits or pad imprinting—baking onto the rotor surface. Nuts & Bolts: Warped Rotor Myth

Good point..... oddly, I think more about using the phone up there to use as the nav screen and not use Android Auto (don't like that it takes over the screen, so getting to phone or audio functions is more of a pain), making the wireless charge work well. LOL, I on last extended drive I...

IMO: A couple things... 1. There is no access to the USB ports for Android Auto or Apple CarPlay... I know there are wireless options but just one more gadget to get. 2. I would prefer on of these for the upper tray... few seem to make them for this location. Please take that as a suggestion...

PS: The original link is broken so can't even see what this thread is going about (the discussion is clear enough)... but would be fun to see the item and a photo or two of them installed... so, if got'em, post'em... thanks.

LOL... I think Ford is as well...

True... but a couple have... including myself... Pedder BBK has worked great... https://www.ranger5g.com/forum/threads/pedders-big-brake-kit-installed.9460/post-623143

The one thing they did not cover, which I had heard about in the days of yore, is a pre-pressurizing system where a couple quarts of oil are held in a tank at 80-90 psi and released just before the starter is engaged.... and refilled and repressurized while you drive. Would that make any...

Food for thought.... just found it interesting... The Science Behind Million Mile Engines!

From what I see, a proper COP cap/seal is already, mostly, built in... if it actually works. However, the plug valley (and then the plug well) is so deep, I'm wondering if it fills up and overwhelms the seal... would have hoped the valley would have a drain but I don't know...