Stripped Transmission Pan Hole

[JoeyRig]

Call the company. At the very least to inform them of their screw up. In my opinion, they should pay to have this professionally repaired and refund the cost of the product.

I shot them an email and attached the pictures of the Ford manual, the included instructions and their websites instructions. Just to give them a heads up. Refund would be nice but in my opinion not required. I had access to the manuals and should have known better anyway.

Anyway, woke up early with a cup of coffee and a gorgeous sunrise. Went to Ford and ordered new bolts and studs and a new gasket just to be safe.

Gonna go look at the threads here soon.

Thank you everyone for the help and I'll keep yall updated.

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[gwhalin]

I have the pan sitting in my garage to install when weather is a bit warmer. Just checked printed instructions and mine are also wrong. Interesting that the online version is correct but they didn’t bother to let people know the included paper instructions are way wrong. Sorry this happened to you but glad I came across this thread prior to doing the install.

 

[Fitzmotor]

Time Sert everytime, far better than a Helicoil in my opinion, I've installed both, quick fix to your problem, get a 6mm kit, follow the instructions.

 

[DHMag]

in aluminum, id use a key-sert (also called keensert)

 

[SigOris]

in aluminum, id use a key-sert (also called keensert)

Most of the radar systems I worked on used these ?

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

Ok, don't laugh. But before you go too extreme, grab some zip ties. Assume you are like most guys and have a number of sizes already in your tool box. If not, head to Home Depot. And take your bolt with you.

Find a zip tie that is about 1/2 the width of the hole. Cut off the starter/pointed end of the zip tie so that it is roughly the depth of the bolt hole. Insert that piece into the hole. Insert your new original sized bolt, making sure that the zip tie stays upright so it is between the threads and the side of the bolt hole. Gently tighten.

I'll bet you a beer, heck and beer and wings, it will hold. Especially at the low torque values we are talking. Sounds nuts. But it works.

This reminds me of a technique my ex-father-in-law showed me. It was definitely before Tik Tok and likely even before zip ties. He was working on a Harley with a hopelessly stripped item. He took a few strands of wire from a small brass-wire cleaning brush and placed them in the threaded hole, followed by the bolt. I was skeptical but it worked.

Lesson: Never doubt a crusty old biker-dude/heavy equipment operator/mechanic who has his name tattooed across his knuckles, unless you want that name written backwards on your forehead.

 

[Friday yet?]

woke up early with a cup of coffee and a gorgeous sunrise

Can't beat that!

 

[JoeyRig]

Well, chased the threads with a rethreading tap and there are definitely SOME threads but the bolt is uncomfortably loose in the hole. I'm at a crossroads. Fresh bolts won't arrive until Monday to actually give it a proper test. Still feel uneasy trying it out and am just leaning towards doing the job "right" and going with an insert.

Time Sert everytime, far better than a Helicoil in my opinion, I've installed both, quick fix to your problem, get a 6mm kit, follow the instructions.

Time Sert was going to be my original plan as I like how they expand to lock into place.

in aluminum, id use a key-sert (also called keensert)

However, I just looked at key-serts and they're available at Mcmaster-Carr. Like the idea of the keys locking them in also.

Probably going to do some more research on the both of em before I make a decision..I have until Monday regardless.

Thank you again everyone.

 

[JoeyRig]

I have the pan sitting in my garage to install when weather is a bit warmer. Just checked printed instructions and mine are also wrong. Interesting that the online version is correct but they didn’t bother to let people know the included paper instructions are way wrong. Sorry this happened to you but glad I came across this thread prior to doing the install.

I followed @Old Red Replacement guide to the install and he even thought that 18-22 ft-lbs was overkill. I should've listened.


Either way, I'm glad that you will be able to avoid this!

 

[9zero1790]

Ok, don't laugh. But before you go too extreme, grab some zip ties. Assume you are like most guys and have a number of sizes already in your tool box. If not, head to Home Depot. And take your bolt with you.

Find a zip tie that is about 1/2 the width of the hole. Cut off the starter/pointed end of the zip tie so that it is roughly the depth of the bolt hole. Insert that piece into the hole. Insert your new original sized bolt, making sure that the zip tie stays upright so it is between the threads and the side of the bolt hole. Gently tighten.

I'll bet you a beer, heck and beer and wings, it will hold. Especially at the low torque values we are talking. Sounds nuts. But it works.

i also thought hmm low torque and it goes all the way out just zip and forget lol.

 

[Trigganometry]

Well, chased the threads with a rethreading tap and there are definitely SOME threads but the bolt is uncomfortably loose in the hole. I'm at a crossroads. Fresh bolts won't arrive until Monday to actually give it a proper test. Still feel uneasy trying it out and am just leaning towards doing the job "right" and going with an insert.



Time Sert was going to be my original plan as I like how they expand to lock into place.



However, I just looked at key-serts and they're available at Mcmaster-Carr. Like the idea of the keys locking them in also.

Probably going to do some more research on the both of em before I make a decision..I have until Monday regardless.

Thank you again everyone.

Hell-coils you have to open up the hole and then retap it. If the original threads are gaffed bad enough you could just rethread with the heli-coil tap and then put the insert in. For me, if it were my issue it’s not worth taking a shortcut! That could lead to bigger problems without you knowing that you were leaking fluid and the tranny implodes because of it. Do it right the first time and walk away knowing it won’t be an issue.

Depending on where you are I do have the heli-coil kit!

 

[AdamHarris]

My PPE Pan arrived today and yep my instructions are incorrectly printed as well.

 

[Dereku]

This reminds me of a technique my ex-father-in-law showed me. It was definitely before Tik Tok and likely even before zip ties. He was working on a Harley with a hopelessly stripped item. He took a few strands of wire from a small brass-wire cleaning brush and placed them in the threaded hole, followed by the bolt. I was skeptical but it worked.

Lesson: Never doubt a crusty old biker-dude/heavy equipment operator/mechanic who has his name tattooed across his knuckles, unless you want that name written backwards on your forehead.

I use toothpicks all the time when working with wood. I bet half of the doors in my house have at least one as a shim on tje hinges or stuffed in a hole that was stripped out so the screw could grab. Im intrigued to try this on a metal application now.

 

[DukeCanBuildit]

I use toothpicks all the time when working with wood. I bet half of the doors in my house have at least one as a shim on tje hinges or stuffed in a hole that was stripped out so the screw could grab. Im intrigued to try this on a metal application now.

Here’s a tip to take the “toothpicks in the door hinge hole” trick to a new level….

Drill 3/8” holes into the door jamb where the stripped screw holes are.
Squirt some wood glue in there - spread it around with an awl or screwdriver.
Spread some wood glue on the end of 3/8” wood dowel.
Insert the dowel as far as it will go.
Cut dowel off flush to the jamb with an oscillating tool or other fine saw.
Repeat for the remaining holes.
Let the glue dry for several hours.
Drill 1/8” pilot holes in the centre of the dowel ends.
Mount the door, using door hinge screws.

? ? ?‍

 

[AzScorpion]

Here’s a tip to take the “toothpicks in the door hinge hole” trick to a new level….

Drill 3/8” holes into the door jamb where the stripped screw holes are.
Squirt some wood glue in there - spread it around with an awl or screwdriver.
Spread some wood glue on the end of 3/8” wood dowel.
Insert the dowel as far as it will go.
Cut dowel off flush to the jamb with an oscillating tool or other fine saw.
Repeat for the remaining holes.
Let the glue dry for several hours.
Drill 1/8” pilot holes in the centre of the dowel ends.
Mount the door, using door hinge screws.

? ? ?‍

That's the best way to do it and a more permanent fix. We use to have so many stripped holes when we took the doors off for painting. I always had a box of toothpicks and some wood glue which a quick fix for us as we had limited time. I swear thee guys never set the drill speed and use the clutch they just let it go full bore.

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