Stripped Transmission Pan Hole

[NotBudule]

Cadillac had a "Main Bearing Bolt Repair kit" back in the mid 80's when they first came out with the HT 4100 aluminum block, steel everything else debacle, anywho the "kit" was some helicoils and thread locker and a new bolt ?...

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[P. A. Schilke]

So I've done a little digging on threaded inserts and I'm torn between the keyed inserts and timeserts. If this was my old busted 2003 F150 Triton I would probably just dp the ziptie trick and be happy, but I want to be a little more cautious with my Ranger.

Keyed Inserts:

PROS:
-Available from Mcmaster, all I'd need is a setting tool. Have a bit set with proper sized bits (8.8) and the tap size (M10 × 1.25)
-Seem to be the ideal permanent solution for Aluminum
- Keys keep insert in place and prevent backing out

CONS:
-Need the room for a large new insert. Theres about 1/8 of an inch of meat, but I'd only expand the radius by ~5/64

Timeserts:

PROS:
- Couldn't find data on how much room I need but supposedly less because the inner and outer threads are nestled
- Shouldered for easy depth control
- Expands into threads to prevent backing out

CONS:
- Need to find a quick shipping source for them
- Need to buy whole kit ($)
- Online reviews are either a love hate and people claim that they rip out easy

Or I take the seemingly overwhelming advice and just run Helicoils but I'd need to get over my own issue with them which is they always seem to spin out with the bolt.

At an impasse here and can't make a decision. Want to make good and sure that I only have to drill holes in my near new transmission once!

Thank you.

Hi Joey,

I do not think this is a big deal to invest in the Timesert which are very costly. Try to tap out the hole and and as recommended, use a bottom tap too and you may get the fastener tight enough to just move on to more fun things like driving your Ranger than spending so much time admiring the undersides of the truck! The tap method will not hurt you any more than you are already and then you can go to Plan B if this does not work...

best,
Phil

 

[Dean Schaffran]

Sorry for the late input, and just to confuse things a bit more:
You >might< try going with a 1/4-20 UNC ( 'merca) Thread-forming screw (or tap) in that shelled M6x1.00 threaded hole--the major dia is larger (about .010~.015") and the "tap drill" would be a little off (old hole maybe 0.230~0.235, should be like 0.224) but you might end up with a 50%+ thread. Use a lot of oil. You >might try a 1/4-28 UNF but I'm not a fan of TF on that fine a pitch. Worst case you still have to drill & thread-insert. Best case, happy day.
^from Machinery's Handbook^

 

[P-38Ranger]

Maybe I missed it, but did you use, or was it specified to use, anti sieze? Damn aluminum will get you everytime. I my experience a bolt that is being torqued will NEVER break like that unless the threads have galled. From the descriptions, a lot of them galled!
Years ago on my 1980’s ish Range I was swapping the thermostats and watching the children play, and started tightening the bolt into the aluminum head, and barely used force and it snappedd just like this. Trip to the dealer, because no one else had a EDM machine in their garage, and they fixed it.

 

[DHMag]

Keyed Inserts:

PROS:
-Available from Mcmaster, all I'd need is a setting tool. Have a bit set with proper sized bits (8.8) and the tap size (M10 × 1.25)
-Seem to be the ideal permanent solution for Aluminum
- Keys keep insert in place and prevent backing out

CONS:
-Need the room for a large new insert. Theres about 1/8 of an inch of meat, but I'd only expand the radius by ~5/64

I would not worry about the repair hole size because the insert is steel. It should actually be stronger after its done. McMC also sells the setting tools but you can get by with a hammer and pin punch, just ensure youre square on the key before whacking it with your little pecker. Also, make sure it is flush or just shy of the flange surface before setting the keys.

 

[JoeyRig]

Hi Joey,

I do not think this is a big deal to invest in the Timesert which are very costly. Try to tap out the hole and and as recommended, use a bottom tap too and you may get the fastener tight enough to just move on to more fun things like driving your Ranger than spending so much time admiring the undersides of the truck! The tap method will not hurt you any more than you are already and then you can go to Plan B if this does not work...

best,
Phil

Phil,

I am eternally grateful for this advice. The last sentence there really drove it home in a "what do I have to lose" way. Sprayed out the hole with an air nozzle, and went for broke. New bolt threaded in like a dream, and took the 89 in lbs like it was nothing.

Ford only sells the studs in packs of four so I ran an extra one through all 18 holes just to be sure and sprayed each one out as well.

I must admit that life got in the way at that point, so I havent filled her back up yet, but I don't see any reason why it would leak.

Again, thank you for the advice, you saved me a good amount of money and heartbrake if I bungled the inserts.

 

[5thranger]

Here’s a tip to take the “toothpicks in the door hinge hole” trick to a new level….

Drill 3/8” holes into the door jamb where the stripped screw holes are.
Squirt some wood glue in there - spread it around with an awl or screwdriver.
Spread some wood glue on the end of 3/8” wood dowel.
Insert the dowel as far as it will go.
Cut dowel off flush to the jamb with an oscillating tool or other fine saw.
Repeat for the remaining holes.
Let the glue dry for several hours.
Drill 1/8” pilot holes in the centre of the dowel ends.
Mount the door, using door hinge screws.

? ? ?‍

Great solution, also add a damper to restrict travel.

 

[AzureRanger]

Phil,

I am eternally grateful for this advice. The last sentence there really drove it home in a "what do I have to lose" way. Sprayed out the hole with an air nozzle, and went for broke. New bolt threaded in like a dream, and took the 89 in lbs like it was nothing.

Ford only sells the studs in packs of four so I ran an extra one through all 18 holes just to be sure and sprayed each one out as well.

I must admit that life got in the way at that point, so I havent filled her back up yet, but I don't see any reason why it would leak.

Again, thank you for the advice, you saved me a good amount of money and heartbrake if I bungled the inserts.

Great news on the fix! It's awesome the way all of you came together to find a solution. And, kudos to you Joey for taking a step back and carefully weighing all the options. I'm curious if the vendor ever thanked you for pointing out the issue with their printed instructions?

 

[JoeyRig]

Great news on the fix! It's awesome the way all of you came together to find a solution. And, kudos to you Joey for taking a step back and carefully weighing all the options. I'm curious if the vendor ever thanked you for pointing out the issue with their printed instructions?

They did, they said they QA/QC'd all their current stock, and the instructions were all good. I didn't order the pan direct from them so they think I had an old stock that was misprinted and it has obviously since been addressed.

They apologized for the inconvenience and offered me discounts on future purchases, so I've been cruising their website just to see what they have to offer.

For anyone else interested in this pan swap be advised if you let the transmission drain for about 5 days you're going to need about 11 quarts to get fluid to the right amount to drive it.

Later today I'm going to hook up my laptop with forscan to verify the transmission temp and ensure I'm at the correct level.

EDIT: Thank you again for everyone who had helped me! @AzureRanger if I had just listened to Phil in the first place it would have saved me an anxious weekend, but I'm bullheaded!

 

[JoeyRig]

Alright everyone,

So I originally changed the fluid and pan to get rid of the clunky shifting. After taking her out for a spin (and having the clunking noticebaly absent) I checked the fluid and it was high, at about 3 and a half on the dipstick. Pulled out a bit more, went for another spin (and having the clunking return) the fluid was right at about 4 and a quarter.

Would leaving the fluid high at about 3.5 cause any lasting damage or problems? Just so I can get rid of that damned clunking?

Thanks again for the help yall!

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