Stripped Transmission Pan Hole

[JoeyRig]

Today disaster struck.

While installing a PPE pan, I was torquing down the pan bolts and one snapped right in half. The instructions called for 18-22 ft-lbs and I thought that was high so I did 15 and it still snapped.

Was able to remove the stuck broken bolt but the threads are knackered. I kind of got it to thread in but I don't feel comfortable with it.

Any reccomendations on how to fix this?

I was going to go with Helicoils but I've had them back right out with the bolt and have to reinstall them. Looked at "Time-Sert" kits but they seem to have some bad reviews.

I also wonder if I could drill out the holes and just thread them M7 or M8.

Taking a break from this whole debacle and am just trying to brainstorm a solution, and ask the think-tank that is this forum their opinions.

Thank you!

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[BS67]

I'd find out the thread and take a thread cleaner or cutter and see if I could clean up the threads and use a new bolt.

 

[Dereku]

i second cleaning it up as well. If it doesn't work helicoil or large bolt would be my next step. Either way you have to enlarge the hole. Make sure there is enough material around it. Otherwise there is a jb weld and oil method. Coat the bolt in oil so it doesn't stick to the jb and that will make new threads. Its sounds ghetto and well it is but it works if used right.

 

[JoeyRig]

I'd find out the thread and take a thread cleaner or cutter and see if I could clean up the threads and use a new bolt.

I was hoping it would be that easy but after trying to thread in a different bolt, I unthreaded it and most of the threads came with it.

 

[chrisakz]

I’ve always had good experiences with helicoils we use them all the time at work. A dab of loctite when installing the helicoil should keep it from backing out with the bolt

 

[JoeyRig]

i second cleaning it up as well. If it doesn't work helicoil or large bolt would be my next step. Either way you have to enlarge the hole. Make sure there is enough material around it. Otherwise there is a jb weld and oil method. Coat the bolt in oil so it doesn't stick to the jb and that will make new threads. Its sounds ghetto and well it is but it works if used right.

There looks to be enough meat there for a slightly larger hole.

 

[BS67]

I would still give it a try to clean up the threads and a new bolt. Nothing to lose. Try the simple things first.....doesn't work?........go forward with another plan.

 

[LB'sTremor]

you sure that wasn't inch pounds they wanted?

LB

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Hi JR,

Being a dog point bolt, it is supposed to pilot into the hole without cross threading, but the bolt appear to be cross threaded, probably during initial assembly. So not the first time I have seen this sort of unfortunate event. The threads of the bolt became galled with aluminum before being tightened completely. What we did in field repairs was to insert a sharp tap of the correct size which is likely 6mm x 1.0 and then insert a new bolt but thread it in until hand tight then apply a bit of torque and see if it holds...if so, let it go as the bolts on each side will likely take up the slack. If the flange is such that you can drill through it, then you may be able to nut and bolt it...use a smaller diameter and some flat washers under the head of the bolt and cobble a contoured piece on the other side with the nut. Helicoils have also worked for me with a clean hole and some red loctite.

Good luck.

Best,
Phil

 

[Shoran12]

So if you can chase the threads or go up a size great but my recommendation would be a heli-coil. I’d do this before going up a size bolt because the torque spec may be off but often times the torque spec on something that holds a gasket won’t be what what a standard torque setting on a bolt would be. I’ve seen it both ways however. I’ve seen guys use them for head gaskets. I’ve used them tons of time for stripped out bolts throughout a lumber mill and if you take your time they work great. You’ll be able to use the same size bolt and just drill out the hole using the provided bit and thread in the heli-coil, break off the tab and you’re all set. I’d first chase the threads and then if that didn’t work would go to the heli-coil.

 

[Shoran12]

Hi JR,

Being a dog point bolt, it is supposed to pilot into the hole without cross threading, but the bolt appear to be cross threaded, probably during initial assembly. So not the first time I have seen this sort of unfortunate event. The threads of the bolt became galled with aluminum before being tightened completely. What we did in field repairs was to insert a sharp tap of the correct size which is likely 6mm x 1.0 and then insert a new bolt but thread it in until hand tight then apply a bit of torque and see if it holds...if so, let it go as the bolts on each side will likely take up the slack. If the flange is such that you can drill through it, then you may be able to nut and bolt it...use a smaller diameter and some flat washers under the head of the bolt and cobble a contoured piece on the other side with the nut. Helicoils have also worked for me with a clean hole and some red loctite.

Good luck.

Best,
Phil

+1 on heli-coil as a secondary plan. I just mentioned heli-coils as well. If the threads can’t be chased then a heli-coil would be the next best option. I’ve used heli-coils countless times around a lumber mill on all sized bolts without any issues. Just have to take your time and blow out the hole really well with air before threading in the fastener. They really can be lifesavers.

 

[RangerBill]

Today disaster struck.

While installing a PPE pan, I was torquing down the pan bolts and one snapped right in half. The instructions called for 18-22 ft-lbs and I thought that was high so I did 15 and it still snapped.

Was able to remove the stuck broken bolt but the threads are knackered. I kind of got it to thread in but I don't feel comfortable with it.

Any reccomendations on how to fix this?

I was going to go with Helicoils but I've had them back right out with the bolt and have to reinstall them. Looked at "Time-Sert" kits but they seem to have some bad reviews.

I also wonder if I could drill out the holes and just thread them M7 or M8.

Taking a break from this whole debacle and am just trying to brainstorm a solution, and ask the think-tank that is this forum their opinions.

Thank you!

Shop manual states:

NOTE: Install the bolts and studbolts in the correct locations noted during removal.

Install the transmission fluid pan and loosely install the bolts and studbolts.

1. Tighten the studbolts in a crisscross pattern.
   Torque : 106 lb.in (12 Nm)
2. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern.
   Torque : 89 lb.in (10 Nm)

18-22 ft/lbs is too much torque.

 

[P. A. Schilke]

Shop manual states:

NOTE: Install the bolts and studbolts in the correct locations noted during removal.

Install the transmission fluid pan and loosely install the bolts and studbolts.

1. Tighten the studbolts in a crisscross pattern.
   Torque : 106 lb.in (12 Nm)
2. Tighten the bolts in a crisscross pattern.
   Torque : 89 lb.in (10 Nm)

15-22 ft/lbs is too much torque.

Hi Bill,

Yikes....8.8 ft-lbs... for studs and 7.4 ft-lbs for bolts. Way over torqued! Thank you for the shop info!

Best,
Phil

 

[gwhalin]

These are instructions from PPE.

 

[Dereku]

Looks like you torqued to the pan plug spec. Happens to the best of us. Keep us updated with the fix.

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