Oil Catch Can. Yes or No?

[Floyd]

How can installing for example the jlt 3.0 harm a engine?

Probably can't, but hypothetically if it were allowed to overfill or if it caused a vent restriction, it could cause excess crankcase pressure resulting in such problems as oil leaks.

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[grizzly]

You guys still discussing this huh?

I think CC's are great.............If you are the company selling them. They have made a lot of money.

Truthfully all they are really doing is catching the condensation, that is it. If you use one in a humid enviroment you get a lot of dirty water. If you use one in a dry climate you get very little dirty water.

Carry on.

 

[McLeadslinger]

I’ve used catch cans on almost every boosted vehicle and also high revving NA applicationI’ve owned and I plan on buying one for the Ranger. This includes my focus RS which basically has the same motor as the Ranger.

 

[Josebd]

Ok,I ordered the jlt 3.0

 

[puckdodger]

Truthfully all they are really doing is catching the condensation, that is it. If you use one in a humid enviroment you get a lot of dirty water. If you use one in a dry climate you get very little dirty water.

If it is actually water being caught, then why is it flammable when you throw it on a fire?

 

[Floyd]

If it is actually water being caught, then why is it flammable when you throw it on a fire?

Try throwing washer fluid on a fire.... its mostly water.
I'm not commenting on the content of the catchcan... just your question.

 

[JesseS]

I was going to use one, and purchased the excellent dual-vacuum UPR catch can system with extension. But, it turns out in california it's illegal to install, and the vehicle won't pass smog.

So, I was never able to install it. If anyone wants to buy it for less than new cost -- it's unused/brand new in original unopened packaging-- let me know. At some point I'll also post in a For Sale thread...

That is easy to get around if you really want to, just purchase another stock hose (uncut) and replace the modified one every 2 years for the smog check, then swap back, 10 minutes work. You don't even need to remove the can as if its not connected to the PCV system the Tech can't fail you for it.

 

[Jacob]

If it is actually water being caught, then why is it flammable when you throw it on a fire?

He’s actually correct. In winter my can catches a lot of water mixed in with the carbon build up. Summer I could go 3k miles and it only has a little bit of fluid. Winter requires a dumping every 1k miles. My bottle is almost filled after two years of the can. I’ll post a pic of it so you can see the actual carbon and petrol fluid separated from the water.

 

[Racket]

He’s actually correct. In winter my can catches a lot of water mixed in with the carbon build up. Summer I could go 3k miles and it only has a little bit of fluid. Winter requires a dumping every 1k miles. My bottle is almost filled after two years of the can. I’ll post a pic of it so you can see the actual carbon and petrol fluid separated from the water.

And that 'water' isn't going to be pure H2O.

The catch can is kind of like a bong for the emissions system ?

Edit: found this article on closed vs. vented, single vs. dual catch cans on forced systems: https://www.corral.net/threads/closed-pcv-system-dual-valve-catch-can.2497403/

"For a forced induction application, two suction sources are needed for both no load/idle and load/boost, which leads to a dual outlet catch can. If a single inlet/outlet catch can is utilized, there will be only part-time evacuation of the crankcase (only during no load/idle). A dual outlet system will mimic that of a vacuum pump, but will not draw as much in.

Load/Boost/WOT

This is where a dual port system is beneficial. In this condition, the air in the intake manifold will be pressurized. If the OEM PCV system is left untouched, the pressurized air in the intake will make its way into the crankcase. The primary suction source check valve will close and the secondary suction source/catch can exit port #2 will open. The Supercharger impeller will create suction for the catch can to evacuate the crankcase."

I presume @Doc 's crankcase breather accomplishes that quickly and efficiently from a performance view. The dual vacuum UPR isn't as quick but if you're under boost a lot (towing comes to mind) or if you've modded the hell out of your motor it might validate the $400+ investment.

 

[Msfitoy]

A tailgate damper is way more useful... ?

 

[Dgc333]

Several comments about the PCV system and catch cans;
1. The PCV valve acts as a calibrated leak when the engine is off boost. As intake manifold vacuum varies a check ball moves back and forth to keep the flow rate of fumes from the crank case relatively constant. Years ago you would check the PCV valve by shaking it and if you could hear the ball moving back and forth it was good.
2. With a turbo (or supercharged engine) the PCV has a second function. When the intake has positive pressure the valve now becomes a check valve and prevents flow into the crank case which would pressurize the crank case.
3. Off boost as the fumes in the crank case are being drawn through the PCV valve to the intake a vacuum would be created in the crank case. To prevent this there is a vent to allow air back into the crank case. In the old days this would have been a breather on a valve cover. These days the make up air is via a hose that attaches to the intake between the air filter and the turbo inlet (it is refered to the clean side verse the line between the PCV and intake manifold being refered to as the dirty side) and the valve cover. This ensures that only filtered air is allowed back into the engine.
4. The clean side line line also serves a second function. All engines have some level of combustion by products that leak past the rings this is refered to as blowby. The blowby tries to pressurize the crank case and this is prevented by allowing it to be t out through the clean side line. Because the clean side line is attached to the intake it gets recirculated back into the engine.
5. A catch can is normally installed in the dirty line between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. Since a turbo engine spends most of its time off boost this gives you the biggest bang for your buck. Some folks will also install a catch can on the clean side to capture the oily fumes that are vented out the clean side under boost. FP sells catch cans for both sides to fit the Mustang 2.3 Ecoboost.
6. A dual valve catch can uses the low pressure area right infront of the turbo along with some clever use of check valves to pull fumes through the dirty side even under boost. The clean side lines stays in place. Ideally under boost with a dual valve can no fumes would be traveling out of the clean side line.

 

[Jrel209]

I have looked into the pro's and con's and have decided not to install one. I will however use CRC GDI intake valve and turbo cleaner right before every oil change (5K Miles). this should prevent any coke buildup on the backs of the valves without possibly messing with the emissions, warranty, or violating any CARB regulations (but no snog test for the first 5 years on new vehicles).

Have you had a chance to use the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner yet? Is this product tested and verified to not cause issues and help with the carbon buildup? I just found it earlier today browsing youtube and took a shot searching for it on here and found your post, so thought i'd ask.

 

[Doc]

“Just Say No”
to Catch Cans …

 

[JesseS]

Have you had a chance to use the CRC GDI intake valve cleaner yet? Is this product tested and verified to not cause issues and help with the carbon buildup? I just found it earlier today browsing youtube and took a shot searching for it on here and found your post, so thought i'd ask.

I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but installed a capped 'T' in the Vac line for an injection point. All of my research points to it helping prevent coking. I will do it right before oil changes, you need to have the engine at operating temp and hold 2K RPM while injecting. The wife can do that as it only takes 1 minute to empty the can, then shut it off to cook for 30 minutes, then go around the block a few times in sport mode

 

[Jrel209]

I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but installed a capped 'T' in the Vac line for an injection point. All of my research points to it helping prevent coking. I will do it right before oil changes, you need to have the engine at operating temp and hold 2K RPM while injecting. The wife can do that as it only takes 1 minute to empty the can, then shut it off to cook for 30 minutes, then go around the block a few times in sport mode

Hey whenever u get a chance to perform the procedure are you able to take pics of the injection point. I think i may do this every other oil change, so approx every 10k miles. So far a lot of research says it helps, just no real scientific experiments done with a control haha. But i mean for about $20 a can... its worth a shot imo.

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