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Reason for lackluster AC

rydfree

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No, a fully functioning automotive AC system should cool -30F below exterior ambient temp, anything less is not functioning properly.

As a note, you're always trying to "cool" the outside air because you need to draw heat out of the condenser which is why you measure off of ambient and not "feed temp" of the system.
Ok.

I always try to remove the heat from the inside air , not cool the outside air.
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Gizmokid2005

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Ok.

I always try to remove the heat from the inside air , not cool the outside air.
Note my explanation of that. You're trying to cool the outside air (which is the refrigerant) by passing it through the condenser, which needs to fight the ambient air temp, which is why ambient temp - 30F is the target for AC performance in a vehicle. To my knowledge that has been the standard for decades now.
 

usbjbma

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Well I took a look at the condenser or what I believe to be the condenser. How bad is it? Can’t believe Ford just left a gaping hole in the bumper for debris to come whack it. Pictures don’t do it justice as it looks better than it is on the pictures
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Yep, same here. I bought a ‘20 model in May with less than 30K miles and immediately felt unimpressed by the A/C. I took temp readings which checked out…it’s cold enough, there’s something else I guess that feels off based on my experience with my other vehicles and 30+ years of driving. Looks like I’m not alone. Was in my cousin’s ‘23 Explorer with the same interface system and it the A/C performance was impressive.
 

rydfree

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Note my explanation of that. You're trying to cool the outside air (which is the refrigerant) by passing it through the condenser, which needs to fight the ambient air temp, which is why ambient temp - 30F is the target for AC performance in a vehicle. To my knowledge that has been the standard for decades now.
I've always thought of it a bit differently I suppose. The liquid refrigerant flashes to a gas inside the (Evaporator) coil and draws heat from the interior into the refrigerant which is then sent to the compressor to turn into a liquid again and then flows through the (condensor) coil to release that heat to the outside. The cooler the air inside that it has to remove heat from the better.
 

canyonslicker

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Ok I’ve bought a few ford trucks new. They all leaked Freon and needed recharge and/or seal replacement. 15 years later I got a 21 Ranger so far so good with many road trips through the hot desert. Now my wife’s Maverick hybrid has an awesome AC.
Just top it off with one that has dye in it. It’ll show you where it’s leaking grossly if it is. Humidity plays a big role in cooling not just temperature..
 


Gizmokid2005

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I've always thought of it a bit differently I suppose. The liquid refrigerant flashes to a gas inside the (Evaporator) coil and draws heat from the interior into the refrigerant which is then sent to the compressor to turn into a liquid again and then flows through the (condensor) coil to release that heat to the outside. The cooler the air inside that it has to remove heat from the better.
You're also not wrong though. But the key is that there's still an upper limit to how cold the AC can get your air even on recirc due to the exchange of heat in the engine bay.
 
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Recirculation stays on unless I am defrosting the windshield as I have no interest in the outside smells and cabin air filter was recently replaced with no change (didn't expect any, just wanted to change it). Temp does go to hot and back to cold just fine, just need to remain in the highest fan speed and temp setting to remain comfortable.
 

Cabose-1

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I would say lack luster ac too, but when its 105 outside and i am in traffic and no air is running through the condenser, and the sun is beating down and no window tint........................yeah, cant wait for winter, break out my jacket and scarf and beenie when it turns 70 degrees
 

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I would say lack luster ac too, but when its 105 outside and i am in traffic and no air is running through the condenser, and the sun is beating down and no window tint........................yeah, cant wait for winter, break out my jacket and scarf and beenie when it turns 70 degrees
Lol when it gets in the 60°s here I have the AC turned on already!! I dont want to imagine it above 80° if I can avoid it!!
 

Cabose-1

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Lol when it gets in the 60°s here I have the AC turned on already!! I dont want to imagine it above 80° if I can avoid it!!
I grew up in ft collins. But have been in the south for well over 20 years now. I used to wear shorts with clear skys and 33 degrees. Now i am 50 and can mow my yard outside in the summer middle of august. Lol. Took my wife there a few summers ago in august and we had to wear sweaters at night. Sure do miss the mountains and the beauty of the mountains
 

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Temp does go to hot and back to cold just fine, just need to remain in the highest fan speed and temp setting to remain comfortable.
Same. How do I add freon? Don't you add it one of those cold side or hot side ports?
 

Gizmokid2005

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Same. How do I add freon? Don't you add it one of those cold side or hot side ports?
At $45+/can for R1234yf - you're way better off going to a professional to check it out. You can cause way more damage overcharging it, grenading a compressor for instance. And with as expensive as the refrigerant is, if you're low already, you have a massive leak you need to get looked at or you'll be doing it again in no time. None of the 5th gen Rangers should need refrigerant yet unless there's system damage.
 

Superdannyboy

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At $45+/can for R1234yf - you're way better off going to a professional to check it out. You can cause way more damage overcharging it, grenading a compressor for instance. And with as expensive as the refrigerant is, if you're low already, you have a massive leak you need to get looked at or you'll be doing it again in no time. None of the 5th gen Rangers should need refrigerant yet unless there's system damage.
I hadn't driven my truck all summer. I have a new little Kia Rio to drive to work and I put nano ceramic tint on it, 5% rear windows and 25% front windows. Doesn't take too long to start getting cold in there.

Got in my truck and felt the difference but maybe it's just the heat. I have to keep it at full blast and at 65 to not sweat lol

I'm in Texas so a southern state.
 

Gizmokid2005

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I hadn't driven my truck all summer. I have a new little Kia Rio to drive to work and I put nano ceramic tint on it, 5% rear windows and 25% front windows. Doesn't take too long to start getting cold in there.

Got in my truck and felt the difference but maybe it's just the heat. I have to keep it at full blast and at 65 to not sweat lol

I'm in Texas so a southern state.
Yeah, that's still not right. I was in SoCal and now in Atlanta, and I *rarely* need to use max AC settings to get it to cool down. Largely I leave it in auto and set at 70F and it does a great job.

The easiest and quickest way to check is just get a probe thermometer (even a meat thermometer will work) and see what temp you get out of the center vent in your truck after it's started cooling. If it's not <50F, you've got a problem with the system. Mine cools pretty consistently <45F regardless of the outside temps, unless I'm offroading in the dust int he middle of the day heat.
 

Shawn_Mc

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Most ot the time the issue with the AC is not being able to move the heat in the amount of time the ride takes. If the ride is 45-60 min, and you're recirc-ing the air and moving at 45+, sure, it'll get nice and chilly inside. but if it's 90+, you've got a 15 minute drive, the car is 130+ inside..the AC is almost pointless.

The moving the heat OUT of the cabin via the refrigerant is the theory taught in AC schools. At least that what I was taught. And that's why the size of the Evaporator matters. The bigger the evaporator, the more heat it can move to the condenser, the condenser then moves it to the ambient air. The evaporator and condensers are sized in combo. You cant absorb 250 btu and expell it through a condenser only capable of transfering 180 btu. Well, I guess you can try...
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