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Msfitoy

Msfitoy

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Ive been looking at those to make my version of the RTR snout lights, but in amber. Probably is it won't look right with those led strips. I need basically neon tubing, but everyone makes versions that either;

A. Are switchbacks (white drl, with amber sequential) (I want amber drl only)

B. Are neon tubing in the 16+ range meant for homes.

If you have any ideas where I can find amber neon tubing that I can use let me know!
I can't think of any tube lights that are bright enough for automotive applications...if I find them I'll pass it on...
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KJRR

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Just when you think there is no way Sid could add more lights...
That's pretty slick. I may borrow this idea!

I can't think of any tube lights that are bright enough for automotive applications...if I find them I'll pass it on...
If anyone know lights... ;)
 

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Ive been looking at those to make my version of the RTR snout lights, but in amber. Probably is it won't look right with those led strips. I need basically neon tubing, but everyone makes versions that either;

A. Are switchbacks (white drl, with amber sequential) (I want amber drl only)

B. Are neon tubing in the 16+ range meant for homes.

If you have any ideas where I can find amber neon tubing that I can use let me know!
Check out cob strips. There are different densities. As bright, or brighter than your average LED strip lights. You don’t see the individual diodes.
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Since XLT gets the cheap mirror without a turn repeater...here's a solution I assembled today...?

Nilite 3.5" LED Amber strips fits nicely into the channel inside the trim...there's a hidden 10mm flat surface...application of adhesion promoter and the included 3M VHB tape, this will not go anywhere...almost like it was made for this idea...I'm intending this to be a dedicated turn/hazard lamp so to the blind spot vehicle, this will be a vivid surprise/warning...

IMG_7550.JPG


Test power and fit prior to permanent adhesive bond...

IMG_7549.JPG


Flip the turn signal and...ooo happy therapy...mmmm...Dopamine...?

IMG_7551.JPG

IMG_7552.JPG

IMG_7553.JPG


Can't wait to see them in action tonight...I'll add MOV later...
I gotta give it to you bud, you come up with some neat shit.. Great job!
 

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Since XLT gets the cheap mirror without a turn repeater...here's a solution I assembled today...?

Nilite 3.5" LED Amber strips fits nicely into the channel inside the trim...there's a hidden 10mm flat surface...application of adhesion promoter and the included 3M VHB tape, this will not go anywhere...

Flip the turn signal and...ooo happy therapy...mmmm...Dopamine...?


IMG_7552.JPG



Can't wait to see them in action tonight...I'll add MOV later...
003DD5E1-1CA9-4C68-9819-B337843EE2F2.gif
 
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Msfitoy

Msfitoy

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Congrats!!! Your next lights projects has to be now to replace the turn signals in the headlights. Now, they look out of sync due to the delays in the bulbs.
Funny you mentioned that...I did just that right after this video...I had installed Diode Dynamic's amber LED blinkers a while back but took them out because they caused the internal clicking noise to double in speed when signalling...strangely, it does not change the rate when using hazard...not sure why because it's blinking at normal rate externally either signalling or using hazard...

Has anyone else have this problem and share how you fixed the internal hyper blinking?
 
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they caused the internal clicking noise to double in speed when signalling...
That may be because the relay senses a burned bulb, as the LED ones draw little current compared to incandescent bulbs. The same relay is also used for hazards, but then there is more draw due to all lights are flashing. One thing you could do is to change the relay or to wire some small resistors in series with the bulbs. It's solvable, yet not that straight forward: use a 12-14V power source, connect it to the bulb, one end through an amper-meter. This way you measure the draw continuously and you can read it. Measure an incandescent bulb, and an LED one. The calculate the resistor.
 
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That may be because the relay senses a burned bulb, as the LED ones draw little current compared to incandescent bulbs. The same relay is also used for hazards, but then there is more draw due to all lights are flashing. One thing you could do is to change the relay or to wire some small resistors in series with the bulbs. It's solvable, yet not that straight forward: use a 12-14V power source, connect it to the bulb, one end through an amper-meter. This way you measure the draw continuously and you can read it. Measure an incandescent bulb, and an LED one. The calculate the resistor.
I think a resistor is the quickest solution...although I could dig back into Forscan but I recall that was a tricky operation lol...
 

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Good luck with that! You may be right. I do not believe there is an actual relay in modern cars anymore as it's probably controlled by a transistor in a chip. So, if you find a way to specify in the software that you have leds instead of the bulbs in order to avoid the resistors, the better - less stress on the alternator with the whole constellation you've got there :p.
 

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I think a resistor is the quickest solution...although I could dig back into Forscan but I recall that was a tricky operation lol...
Sid, getting rid of the cluster hyperblink in FORScan is dead simple. The FORScan wiki thread has it in there. I actually added an update in the table back when I switched to Diode Dynamics led front turn signals. I can't stand the slow and fading in/out flash of incandescent bulbs. They looked even more out of place on the Lariat. I had LED's ordered and ready to replace all the incandescent bulbs on my truck before it was delivered. That's another slick lighting project you've done there - nice work!
 

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Sid, getting rid of the cluster hyperblink in FORScan is dead simple. The FORScan wiki thread has it in there. I actually added an update in the table back when I switched to Diode Dynamics led front turn signals. I can't stand the slow and fading in/out flash of incandescent bulbs. They looked even more out of place on the Lariat. I had LED's ordered and ready to replace all the incandescent bulbs on my truck before it was delivered. That's another slick lighting project you've done there - nice work!
One thing to remember with this FORScan hyperblink fix, if you ever have a bulb go out, you won't know from the dash as this fix actually disables the check itself. Whether or not that's important is up to you, but something to be aware of. It was also one of the reasons I never did a drop in LED swap for the front signals.
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