Help, Quick Question: torque spec wheel lug nuts

Zvedza

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i swapped all of my 2 piece lugs with mcguards stuff.

the oem lugs on the 04 are holding up well, but the two pieces on the ranger and raptor swelled.
I know this is a hot debate but i always back off 5 to 10ft-lbs (like said above) and put some light anti seize on the wheel mounting surface and lugs.
20 somewhat years of doin that now.
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i swapped all of my 2 piece lugs with mcguards stuff.

the oem lugs on the 04 are holding up well, but the two pieces on the ranger and raptor swelled.
I know this is a hot debate but i always back off 5 to 10ft-lbs (like said above) and put some light anti seize on the wheel mounting surface and lugs.
20 somewhat years of doin that now.
I'll never put anti-seize on the nuts that are held on with fiction, you reduce that friction, and you increase the chance of one backing off even if torqued to spec. Only nuts I'll ever anti-seize have to have a cotter pin or similar locking mechanism.
 

Zvedza

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I'll never put anti-seize on the nuts that are held on with fiction, you reduce that friction, and you increase the chance of one backing off even if torqued to spec. Only nuts I'll ever anti-seize have to have a cotter pin or similar locking mechanism.
never had an issue, keeps the studs from rusting and well, seizing.
At the drag strip, offroading, or towing.
Its not a perfect 100% void gap with the stud and nut, air and sometimes water gets in, thats how you can get corrosion, anti seize will literally just fill that gap.
If youre not comfortably throwin it on then dont, but i dont like rusted studs cause i try to keep my vehicles for a long time.
 

ControlNode

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"Know better" and "not comfortable", are two different things. I have several 30+ year old cars, normally by the time the studs are getting enough rust/corrosion to be concerned with, the hubs are starting to get play anyway so new studs while replacing the bearings or they are included with the new hub assembly. I've always used closed nuts on them and if I have to do roadside work where the nuts are installed while wet, next chance I get at home I pull them off and clean in the nuts and studs, dry everything off and reassemble. I have used anti-seize on the wheel/hub connection, but my manuals state to apply it there, while also stating to not get any on the studs.
 

Msfitoy

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That short wrench is pretty bad. I always carry the necessary backup tools…

IMG_3194.jpeg
Yep...I have splined lugs so that attachment is taped to a 1/2" socket...I carry my long breaker and a torque wrench all the time...
 


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I was born in Germany, so I always use their Gudenteit method. Leading arm straight, rear arm bent, back upright. My star wrench is named Dieter.
 
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Friday yet?

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Yep...I have splined lugs so that attachment is taped to a 1/2" socket...I carry my long breaker and a torque wrench all the time...
Don't carry my torque wrench, but breaker bar and socket are with my truck at all times. Have carried my breaker bar and appropriate socketS (Carry one to fit my wife's car too as I am her "AAA." :like: ) for years.

Has only happened once in our years together. But wife's car got a flat, she immediately called "her personal AAA rep." I received said call, dropped everything like a hot rock, drove across town at an above average rate of speed, and ensured that the lady was back on the road with minimal delay. ( Can't remember now but I most likely apologized for the mean ol' nail getting in the way of her car tire.) Took the tire to be patched. Then reinstalled it when she got home that evening. Good ol' personal AAA service. :clap: She calls. I haul ass.

Also carry a plug kit. But only carry a compressor on longer trips. Locally I'd just install the spare and then deal with the flat at home.
 

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Yep...I have splined lugs so that attachment is taped to a 1/2" socket...I carry my long breaker and a torque wrench all the time...
Gotta keep those things together - good job Sid! In the picture above, that black Arnette sunglasses case by the 1/2” impact tool has my wheel set’s splined socket and the necessary impact socket that slides over it.
 

Friday yet?

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In a calibration lab we would exercise the wrenches clicker 10 times before testing the torque values. You can set it at half value like 50 ftlb and click away, then set to 90 or 100. It does make a difference in accuracy and consistency.
 

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Before the incredible battery impact guns we have now, I always carried a 24" breaker and proper torque wrench. Now for day to day driving I only carry my impact gun/socket (Factory kit in case that fails, or Ford roadside if both fail). My Dewalt impact gun on medium setting and a light touch, runs about 90-95 ft lbs, and is more than adequate to get me back home, or a garage for emergency repair.

Extended trips I carry the 24" breaker bar and torque wrench, plug kit, compressor, etc.
 

Zvedza

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Before the incredible battery impact guns we have now, I always carried a 24" breaker and proper torque wrench. Now for day to day driving I only carry my impact gun/socket (Factory kit in case that fails, or Ford roadside if both fail). My Dewalt impact gun on medium setting and a light touch, runs about 90-95 ft lbs, and is more than adequate to get me back home, or a garage for emergency repair.

Extended trips I carry the 24" breaker bar and torque wrench, plug kit, compressor, etc.
just nabbed a 1200ft-lb electric impact gun, amazing what these things can do.
Doesnt make as cool of a sound as my air impact one, but nice i can bring it along for offroading.
Just finished swapping out the whole interior at a junkyard and having one of those guys on hand takin out these 3" bolts holding the seats was a breeze.

What compressor you got? I have one of those el cheapo ones for in a pinch stuff, but annoying for me to stop by a station to air back up the tires.
 

puckdodger

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I don't change my flat tires, don't even carry my spare 95% of the time. I carry a plug kit and 12V pump. My record time getting back on the road is 13 minutes and I don't even break a sweat.
Plus I've saved countless others stranded with flats too.
Fellas, please, as one Canadian who feels the need to offer a thank-you to another Canadian for helping many other Canadians in their times of need, let's go for a rip and I'll buy you both a Double Double and a 20 pack of TimBits!!!🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦


In a calibration lab we would exercise the wrenches clicker 10 times before testing the torque values. You can set it at half value like 50 ftlb and click away, then set to 90 or 100. It does make a difference in accuracy and consistency.
One thing that has always been in the back of my mind is: How would a home grease monkey like me ensure his wrenches are in correct calibration? *activates boomer mode* "Well, back in my day, any and all torque wrenches we used on the assembly lines were all validated on a regular schedule....".

Even though I am careful with my tools they can get dropped or just need calibration. Since I cant just go my local GM plant and get the guy to look at it there, where would I start to look?
 

Canadian Ranger

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Fellas, please, as one Canadian who feels the need to offer a thank-you to another Canadian for helping many other Canadians in their times of need, let's go for a rip and I'll buy you both a Double Double and a 20 pack of TimBits!!!🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦




One thing that has always been in the back of my mind is: How would a home grease monkey like me ensure his wrenches are in correct calibration? *activates boomer mode* "Well, back in my day, any and all torque wrenches we used on the assembly lines were all validated on a regular schedule....".

Even though I am careful with my tools they can get dropped or just need calibration. Since I cant just go my local GM plant and get the guy to look at it there, where would I start to look?
You're very welcome, and you're timing on a Timmy's couldn't have been better as I just finished my morning's Timmy's.....

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