AGM battery reliability

[Rp930]

yes truce, I try to avoid personal conflicts on here - live in fear of the fate of the banana man. But if you've read the posts of some others on here they also believe that the soc of 70% is intended primarily to get better fuel efficiency by limiting alternator load - Ford is not the only mfg that is doing this.

I get it. Maybe it’s because I had to shovel snow this morning.

Anyway if my Diehard doesn’t outlast the original I’ll buy you a beer. Have a great New Year.

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[dtech]

I get it. Maybe it’s because I had to shovel snow this morning.

Anyway if my Diehard doesn’t outlast the original I’ll buy you a beer. Have a great New Year.

Same to you, I see Denver got a pretty good amount. BTW I am aware of your point regards overcharging of an AGM battery - they do charge differently from a wet cell lead acid and overcharging just like undercharging can have adverse effects. I tend not to use a lot of power hungry accessories, as it so happens the home I bought has a heated garage where the Ranger is parked, so if the battery isn't drawn down much the slightly higher voltage shouldn't be much of a factor, the bms just layers ontop of the traditional alternator/voltage regulator which can charge as high as 15 volts but usually around 14 or less , in any event once the AGM battery gives it up the replacement will be a wet cell lead acid .

 

[Dr3wDrop]

Quick update. Ford Tech couldn’t reproduce the door locks going haywire or the sonar noise. I asked if they load tested the battery like I asked and they said no. Apparently, they are going to stress test the battery now for warranty which takes 4-6 hours? Guess I gotta wait until tomorrow.

 

[Muffin1]

I reconnected The BMS at the neg terminal and then did the Battery reset using Forscan, i disabled ASS too. I have it on the tender not driving it till next week.
I have a battery jumper i usually keep in my other car put in in the Ranger for a just in case situation. I had also tested the battery last week with this and it reported as a good battery although i don't remember off hand what all the measured #'s were and don't have it with me at this moment, I'm going to recheck it next week when i get back home, a new battery may be on the horizon but just want to make sure, not to fond of throwing $200 away on a guess.
Thanks to all for the tips and advice.

TOPDON AB101 Car Battery Tester 12V Car Battery Load Tester on Cranking Charging Systems, 100-2000 CCA Automotive Alternator Analyzer for Cars/SUVs/Light Trucks with Flooded AGM Gel Types

 

[Dereku]

Or it could just be poor quality batteries. Or made to a cheap specification. There is no proof changing the charge will will increase battery life.

AGMs do prefer to be at full charge or near full. First thing on google. I didn't look too deep because I have seen this before.

 

[Muffin1]

Yeah I have (had) the same notion too. The only thing I've ever put on maintainers where my motorcycle batteries when storing them for the winter. I've always had 2 vehicles one for work and another for fun. There were times I wouldn't drive my Vette for weeks even longer and never had any problems with the battery. But now there's so much tech on board draining them it's a good idea to hook them up especially if you're not driving it long distances or letting it sit more than a few days.

You mention having a Vette? I've had a couple in that past, now have a '15 Camaro and the battery in that is in the tire well in the trunk under the spare and totally insulated from any heat (engine or ambient).
It's the original AC Delco date stamped 8/15 so it's 7 1/2 years old and still starting, other Camaro owners have mentioned to me as much as 8 or 10 years on theirs, and i do keep it on a tender when not used long term like winter snow and salted roads. So i believe that location helps with the extra years of life.

 

[Muffin1]

AGMs do prefer to be at full charge or near full. First thing on google. I didn't look too deep because I have seen this before.

interesting that's good info to know.

 

[HowIconic!]

I agree that they all are doing the same things,
My complaint is the absolute lack of support I get from my Ford Service Dept.
The local dealers seem incompetent and I can no longer get any help from corporate.

Being a fleet mechanic I have always had cooperation from dealers and companies.
Now , I get the impression that I am just a big fat pigeon when I walk in the door who must pay hundreds just to have them scratch their heads and make condescending remarks.
At these rates I expect competence, not confusion and obfuscation.


BTW. A battery is a wear item like tires and brakes, this one is likely just dying early.
Fortunately this truck remains flawless and reliable.

Once I get past the learning curve on this Ranger, I won't want another adventure into the unknown without a competent and cooperative guide.
I'll likely just keep what I have and stop buying new altogether.


An example...
My TC has an intermittent purge valve malfunction on the evap system.
It is still covered by the emissions warranty so I went to my dealer to have it replaced.
They demanded $167 deposit just to diagnose the problem and promised a partial refund only if Ford would cover the cost when they submitted the charge.
The TC has only 37000 miles on it, the part costs $27, and it takes about 10 minutes to replace.
This style purge valve has been a problem since it was introduced in 2009, so maybe they should have a clue

Floyd, I too was a fleet technician and State Lemon Law Investigator. I had 26 ASE Certifications and the manufacturers reps I dealt with during my Investigations respected my opinions during Lemon Law cases. My 2020 XLT is flawless but the battery issue. Granted I don’t drive as many hours like I used to. But now I get the “To conserve Battery Life“/message almost every time I drive it. Finally took it in to the dealer. I had my proof of messages. Numerousscreen shots of my Ford Pass messages. Left it for service. I even got a message telling me when the tech brought it in the shop this morning. They said there was a low voltage code in the system. They charged the battery and said it was good. Retested and said it passed. Picked it up and Start/Stop still inop. Just don’t have much faith in this system anymore. I even bought the Ford (CTEK) charger so when I get the text messages I throw the charger on it. Having to “wonder” if it will start when I go some where is getting stupid ridiculous. I carry a jump starter behind the seat is something I have never had to do with any other vehicle I have owned.

 

[AzScorpion]

Floyd, I too was a fleet technician and State Lemon Law Investigator. I had 26 ASE Certifications and the manufacturers reps I dealt with during my Investigations respected my opinions during Lemon Law cases. My 2020 XLT is flawless but the battery issue. Granted I don’t drive as many hours like I used to. But now I get the “To conserve Battery Life“/message almost every time I drive it. Finally took it in to the dealer. I had my proof of messages. Numerousscreen shots of my Ford Pass messages. Left it for service. I even got a message telling me when the tech brought it in the shop this morning. They said there was a low voltage code in the system. They charged the battery and said it was good. Retested and said it passed. Picked it up and Start/Stop still inop. Just don’t have much faith in this system anymore. I even bought the Ford (CTEK) charger so when I get the text messages I throw the charger on it. Having to “wonder” if it will start when I go some where is getting stupid ridiculous. I carry a jump starter behind the seat is something I have never had to do with any other vehicle I have owned.

I bought a jumper pack last year too just to have for peace of mind. Plus I always have it hooked up to the maintainer when parked for more than a day or two. I swear I feel like I'm taking care of an elderly patient hooked up to like support with a set of paddles waiting to revive them.

 

[Langwilliams]

I have a little jump box too. I bought it to charge my phone in the postal truck since they took the 12v outlets out of them. I haven't charged it in a few months though.

 

[rmr76]

I have a 2019 that I got on 8/11/2019. About a year and a half in, the Auto Start/Stop wouldn't work due to charging as my commute is only 16 miles round trip. It would often work again if I took a much longer drive (50+ miles). I have it turned off now with ForScan, but I'm still on that original battery, and I occasionally charge it here in the garage if I'm not going anywhere for a couple days, such as this week since I'm off from work. Also, this past year I had to leave it at airport parking for 3 weeks at a time for a couple of business trips. Although I got the weak battery warning, the truck started no problem. In fact, to this day despite a variety of times of the weak battery warning, the truck has always started no problem and I never needed my jumper pack (despite leaving it with the truck during those business trips just in case). So yes, although the BMS seems to undercharge the battery, it hasn't left me stranded yet. I don't have a fear that if it starts no problem in the morning that I'll need a jump to get home from work. So yes, it's not ideal and sure pay attention to it some, but I wouldn't sweat it.

 

[airline tech]

Floyd, I too was a fleet technician and State Lemon Law Investigator. I had 26 ASE Certifications and the manufacturers reps I dealt with during my Investigations respected my opinions during Lemon Law cases. My 2020 XLT is flawless but the battery issue. Granted I don’t drive as many hours like I used to. But now I get the “To conserve Battery Life“/message almost every time I drive it. Finally took it in to the dealer. I had my proof of messages. Numerousscreen shots of my Ford Pass messages. Left it for service. I even got a message telling me when the tech brought it in the shop this morning. They said there was a low voltage code in the system. They charged the battery and said it was good. Retested and said it passed. Picked it up and Start/Stop still inop. Just don’t have much faith in this system anymore. I even bought the Ford (CTEK) charger so when I get the text messages I throw the charger on it. Having to “wonder” if it will start when I go some where is getting stupid ridiculous. I carry a jump starter behind the seat is something I have never had to do with any, other vehicle I have owned.

Howicionic:

I am in process of putting together a detailed report on the BMS,
Now that the battery is fully charged, per the manuals and documentation I have found it takes 6 to 8 hours (At rest & untouched) time for the BMS system to refresh, once it sees a new refreshed SOC above 11.3 volts, the A/Start should now enable.
Please post your results after next drive, to see if this is a fix (recharge)
I am trying to determine if all the issues owners are having with A/Start (Charging) issues is:

A. Bad Battery, once replaced by dealer - If they are following procedures - Perform BMS Reset
and then owners report - Fixing the Problem

B. Which one of the above is actually fixing it? The Battery? - The BMS Reset? - or Both?

C. Is the Bad Battery being caused by the Aging Battery Charging Algorithm?
or just a simple battery that has failed to hold a charge?

 

[airline tech]

AGMs do prefer to be at full charge or near full. First thing on google. I didn't look too deep because I have seen this before.

This right here is why it confuses people, this charging cycle is for Deep Cycle AGM batteries, not Starting Battery -AGM.
It is referencing - a external battery charge voltage. Very conflicting and confusing.
If you scroll down to the bottom of that guide - It states -Deep Cycle
I am putting together a detailed thread on the BMS system, I have more testing to complete

 

[airline tech]

I reconnected The BMS at the neg terminal and then did the Battery reset using Forscan, i disabled ASS too. I have it on the tender not driving it till next week.
I have a battery jumper i usually keep in my other car put in in the Ranger for a just in case situation. I had also tested the battery last week with this and it reported as a good battery although i don't remember off hand what all the measured #'s were and don't have it with me at this moment, I'm going to recheck it next week when i get back home, a new battery may be on the horizon but just want to make sure, not to fond of throwing $200 away on a guess.
Thanks to all for the tips and advice.

TOPDON AB101 Car Battery Tester 12V Car Battery Load Tester on Cranking Charging Systems, 100-2000 CCA Automotive Alternator Analyzer for Cars/SUVs/Light Trucks with Flooded AGM Gel Types

Being that you performed the BMS reset without changing the battery, I am curious of your outcome and if it fixes the issues you were having.
I am trying to determine if a simple reset of the BMS system will fix the issues owners are having vs replacing the battery and performing the BMS reset (Together)

 

[Dereku]

This right here is why it confuses people, this charging cycle is for Deep Cycle AGM batteries, not Starting Battery -AGM.
It is referencing - a external battery charge voltage. Very conflicting and confusing.
If you scroll down to the bottom of that guide - It states -Deep Cycle
I am putting together a detailed thread on the BMS system, I have more testing to complete

Like I said I really did not click on it. Here is a linl of one I did click on. Technically applies to all automotive batteries.

https://lifelinebatteries.com/blog/3-tips-that-will-increase-your-agm-battery-lifespan/

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