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2019 Heater Box failed. Getting rid of this truck.

jblc

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THere was some discussion about whether the '21 is susceptible or not.
So, related to that, on ignition (XLT) to the On position (ie engine not on, but power on), i often hear the blend door cycling about 8 times in a row.
Is that normal, or a sign of some failure?
~2k miles only on my '21.
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MagneticRanger

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THere was some discussion about whether the '21 is susceptible or not.
So, related to that, on ignition (XLT) to the On position (ie engine not on, but power on), i often hear the blend door cycling about 8 times in a row.
Is that normal, or a sign of some failure?
~2k miles only on my '21.
Without knowing for sure it is a blend door making that sound it would only be speculation that it was.

I never had a cycling problem...I replicated my problem by manually turning the HVAC system on and off which produced the snapping/popping noise. This is only done with the engine running as I don't believe the AC or Heater operate with engine off I believe. Although in the On position you may be able to cycle through vent positions eg defrost, body and feet/floor but that is an entirely different thing altogether.

When I get to work and turn my '21 off (put key to ACC) to listen to the radio a few min before going in I hear a bunch of sporadic clicking noises that sound like relays continuing on while I sit there....I have no idea what they are ....I read somewhere it could be sound of a high pressure fuel rail/pump....no idea I just ignore it really.
 

SGT_Rock6

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So about a week ago, my heater/AC stopped working. When turning the blower off, there would be a whirling/clanking behind the dash. Sounded like bouncing a ball in a tiny box. No matter the setting, it would only blow lukewarm air out of the vent. I figured it was the blend door actuator and took it to the dealer for an estimate. Since I’m at 40k miles, I’m just out of warranty and paid $199 for a diagnostic.

No loaners or shuttle ride back home at the dealer, so I was another $50 uber added to the bill. A few hours later, got a call saying that the Heater Box was breaking and would soon be completely broken. Repair included pulling the dash, pulling the old heater box, putting a new one in, putting the dash back in, and fully changing any AC refrigerant. Said it would be $3700 minimum for the repair.

So heater goes out and I’m out:
$3700
$199
$100 in rides to the dealer

And all in a truck with bucking/surging when cold, an existing dash rattle whenever you hit the throttle, and the terrible slip yoke clunk. Sold my 1999 ranger for this one thinking Ford got their ducks in a row in the last 20 years, but I’m really not convinced.
I would be ALL OVER the area factory rep that authorizes coverage for something like this. The dealer service manager should be talking with them te: covering some or all of this, as it is just outside of warranty, and is a major cost failure.
I just sold my 2020 (33k miles) just to capitalize on the value. I really liked it, but was downright “scared” re: reliability. I might buy another one when the computer chips come in and the prices come down.
Good luck.
 
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dtech

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popping noises are not good, as the sound may be the servo motor gear disengaging from the blend door gear - my experience with these systems come from Saabs, but they likely have similarities, the Valeo box used by Saab employed stop arms that limited the travel of the blend door - this was calibrated by feedback to the control unit, so when the blend door hit the stop arm the range of motion was stored in memory of the control unit. When the blend door was defective you'd hear popping noises, in the Saab there was a recalibration feature, I would have to run it frequently when the blend door stuck open in the summer and hot air blew instead of ac.

Would be interested in hearing from Phil what type of reliability testing these units were subjected to.
 

NickTheEnforcer

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FYI: Looking to get rid of my Ranger and VROOM gave me the best online number last week. Definitely moving forward. Once I cash-out my Flood Ford purchased warranty I'm gonna have nearly $10k on hand after I pay off the remaining on the loan. :)
 


harringtondav

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Interesting problem. Last summer (2nd summer for my 2019) I turned the blower up to max on a very hot A/C day. I noticed the fan made an unusual rumbling noise at the higher two speeds. No abnormal noise on heat or vent.

...little good comes from a new noise. I did purchase a Flood Ford 7/75 ESP for under $1200 and am glad I did. I have 5/60 remaining and will try my best to make this and any other problem fail in the remaining warranty.
 

harringtondav

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I wondered if the intake swallowed a part of a leaf or other trash. I got as far as knowing where the cabin filter hsg is located, but wasn't in the mood to dig any deeper on a 90+degree day.
If the noise returns I'll dig into it, or have the dealer do it.

Years ago I disassembled the entire dash on a Dodge Caravan to cobble a repair on the blend door acuator linkage. ...those days are over for me.
 

mtsoxfan

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yeah, for squeeks and giggles i went to vroom and my 2019 lariat ranger 24k miles is worth $37500. to get almost the same 2021 is $42500 + tax+++ i paid $40k out the door in 2019.
not worth it to me.
 
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Metalshift

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The clicking noise is the worm gear in the blend door actuator skipping over a tooth because it cant locate its stop parameters during its calibration sweep. It is a problem in the actuator contacts that provide an inaccurate or non existant voltage signal. This confuses or calibrates the stops incorrectly so the actuator tries to push the door beyond its stops, thus breaking the plastic gears, cam, lever or skipping teeth. It is just a crappy design and the continual full sweep test it does upon start up and upon temp control changes is just plain stupid. Built to fail as it could be designed much simpler.
 
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wanted33

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See what the dealer will give you for it on trade-in. Used prices are stupid crazy these days, and you may get into a new truck for not much more money than the repair. Just a thought.
 

dtech

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The clicking noise is the worm gear in the blend door actuator skipping over a tooth because it cant locate its stop parameters during its calibration sweep. It is a problem in the actuator contacts that provide an inaccurate or non existant voltage signal. This confuses or calibrates the stops incorrectly so the actuator tries to push the door beyond its stops, thus breaking the plastic gears, cam, lever or skipping teeth. It is just a crappy design and the continual full sweep test it does upon start up and upon temp control changes is just plain stupid. Built to fail as it could be designed much simpler.
if it calibrates at each startup - that would likely exacerbate any problems with the blend door, for what a dual zone temp acc unit it provides - I'd just as have a manual single zone system that is less trouble prone.
 

jblc

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if it calibrates at each startup - that would likely exacerbate any problems with the blend door, for what a dual zone temp acc unit it provides - I'd just as have a manual single zone system that is less trouble prone.
Hmmm, maybe that's the 8x cycling I hear when the vehicle ignition is turned to On (per one of my earlier posts) -- it could be excessive calibration cycles.
 

kieefer

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Dirt can build up on HVAC fan cage blades creating imbalance resulting in rumbling/vibrations which may also shorten motor life.

Remove fan, clean blades, solved.
Look forward to your How-To video.
 

Muffin1

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MY window sticker has a blend date of 8/3/19 so a matter of days after this cut off, so i guess i cleared it IDK, and you would hope the heater box from there on is a new upgraded piece so '20's and newer aren't showing this problem.

Anyway I Found this specific writeup didn't see it posted before;

SSM 49264: 2019-2020 Ranger -
Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash - Built On Or Before 30-Jul-2020 Some 2019-2020 Ranger vehicles built on or before 30-Jul-2020 may experience poor and/or no temperature change when the temperature is adjusted in the climate control system. There may also be a clicking/snapping noise from behind the instrument panel. Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B1082 and/or B1081 may also be retrieved from the front controls interface module (FCIM). This may be due to an issue with the blend door and its controls.
To avoid repeat repairs, it is recommended to replace the climate control housing assembly (service base part# 18478). Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 412-00. Vehicles: 2019-2020 Ranger P375N USA (FG) Symptom Code: 111000 BODY PANELS/UNIBODY B1081 B1082
 

Yinzcity

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Hope I don't have to end up dealing with this in my 2019.

Fun story, my previous daily was a 15 GTI which developed a slight rattle when switching vent locations just after the warranty period. Took till 50k before the little plastic gears in the motor that switched between the vents gave up the ghost and it was permanently stuck on defrost/dash vent. I lived with it till 70k and bit the bullet and replaced it myself. $35 part, 2 days to take the whole dash apart just to get to the thing. Also made by Valeo I believe.
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