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I would disconnect the lower air to air (intercooler) pipe and check for moisture. If any amount is found I would dry and probably clean the dpfe and related paths/plumbing. Sounds like it could be a fogging/misting issue disrupting correct sensor data. I would also want to be absolutely sure...

It would be nice to see some pictures of what actually failed in the rear axle and how many parts are salvagable. Was it low on oil ?

My battery is 66 months old and still at excellent rating. SOC is set at 95% and BMS connected (for discharge protection). About every three months I fully charge with a smart charger (ctek) for a couple of days.

Slip yokes and splines have been running on nlgi#2 since their invention without adherent problems. Given the location and slope of a TW shaft in the ranger, heat is probably the biggest concern with #1 grease thinning and running. I would shorten the maintenance interval substantially with #1...

This, https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-nlgi-2-100-synthetic-polymeric-truck-chassis-and-equipment-grease-gptr2/

Here is some pics. The valve fits like it was meant to be there. The dial I installed with a fender washer and put it in where the 12v socket was on my Lightforce aux switch bezel. The hardest part was fishing the wires thru and you barely lose any coolant, as this is the high point in the system.

Yes, the shut off tap keeps the dash and cabin cooler all summer and doesn't tax the ac system so much(probably saving more fuel than the ASS). Keeping it partially closed in the winter keeps from overheating the box and really reduces the hot plastics/drying caulking smell which really annoys...

I used the same parts as Vegas Ranger.

A custom shaft like TW's in Canada would cost around $1150 including tax. The TW shaft is a bargain for what you get with his shipping deal if you live in the USA.

I had a local driveline shop build it .

$35000.. Batteries not included. Some assembly required.

update. Heater has worked better than factory system all winter. I recomend this repair for those trucks out of warranty. Zip tying the heat door to fully open and pulling the ac clutch relay works well. The fully adjustable heat valve works excellent to control cab temperature and there is no...

Update. After a summer and winter with this shaft I can say that critical speed failure has not occurred. I have reached speeds of 140km/hr and constantly cruised at at 125 km/hr for periods exceding 1/2 hr. This shaft is smaller than a Tom Woods shaft with 3.5" .083 tube and 1330 ujoints. I...

I ran these arms for a while and reverted back to stock arms as I don't have enough lift to warant using them and keep my alignment where I want it. RC arms work best at 3 1/4 to 3 3/4 inch lift, but you need a diff drop and your steering /lower ball joints aren't running at a good angle for...

Just drill them out like the instructions state. The removal of material is minimal to clear the threads for the stronger balljoint. The taper doesn't lose any strength and you can still revert to the foctory arms without any problems or loss. You need 3 inchs of lift minimum to use the RC arms...

I repaired mine with a coolant flow control valve, a couple of zip ties and removal of the ac relay for the winter months. I have the single zone no sync dash and the heater works awesome and does what I want and not what the stupid computer thinks should be happening. Best part is no hot...

What climate control system do you have ? what size screen ?

I'm more concerned with the full heat damaging other components over the course of time. I bet the big screens will have early failures because of this.

No more take off shudder. I had to use the original flanges as Ford has them on back order ( I waited 4 months then they cancelled the order). I see Tom woods no longer has 5g shafts on his site as they cant get flanges either.