10R80 transmission poll.

[TJC]

I don’t know how but I’m at 149,000 and not the first even hint of a transmission issue. Just last week had the first “broke fix“ issue, rear drive shaft center bearing.

Good Fortune to You!

Primarily highway miles? Drive a tad aggressive?

I babied mine and had transmission issues reach full flower in 12K miles.

Sponsored

 

[Frenchy]

I don’t know how but I’m at 149,000 and not the first even hint of a transmission issue. Just last week had the first “broke fix“ issue, rear drive shaft center bearing.

Do you realize them how much you just jinxed yourself?!

 

[Stevedbvik1]

Do you realize them how much you just jinxed yourself?!

The first rule of 10R80 success club is you do not talk about 10R80 success club

 

[woodworker]

Good Fortune to You!

Primarily highway miles? Drive a tad aggressive?

I babied mine and had transmission issues reach full flower in 12K miles.

Very sorry to hear you are having troubles and I completely understand. I bought the prettiest Cobalt Blue fully loaded four wheel drive V6 five speed Tacoma in 1995 and it was a rolling POS from the day I drove it off the lot and I eventually took a $4000 loss a year or so later to get rid of that garbage and never sat in a Toyota again.
ANYWAY, to answer your questions;
Probably 70/30 highway/local miles If I had to give numbers.
I don’t drive like a NASCAR driver but I will hammer it occasionally. I always shift into neutral as soon as I start it up for several minutes before I pull out of the driveway. Not sure that makes any difference but it makes me feel better.
I had a transmission flush done at 90,000 and am going to have just fluid and filter here in about a month at 150,000 along with all underneath fluids.
Sixty plus years in maintenance on anything from cars to shipboard propulsion equipment to 2400 MW nuclear reactors has taught me that PM is very important but should not be overdone either. The truck has had every single maintenance recommended by Ford and it goes in every 5000 miles for whatever it needs.
Never had any real weight on the truck itself but I do pull my Kubota 2620 backhoe two or three times a year. It turns five years old next week and I cannot say one bad word about the truck.
Hope this answers your questions and again sorry about your troubles.

 

[Dr. Zaius]

The first rule of 10R80 success club is you do not talk about 10R80 success club

I didn't know there was such a club.

I'm a member of the "Got a Rebuilt 10R80 Club"

 

[woodworker]

Do you realize them how much you just jinxed yourself?!

EVERY SINGLE TIME…..
I had just said that about three weeks ago and the next day, the driveshaft center bearing started grinding. Oh well……

 

[woodworker]

I didn't know there was such a club.

I'm a member of the "Got a Rebuilt 10R80 Club"

How is it holding up after the rebuild?
Who did the work, Ford or other?
Was that warranty or wallet work?
I’m trying to prepare my budget for the inevitable……. Thanks

 

[Dr. Zaius]

How is it holding up after the rebuild?
Who did the work, Ford or other?
Was that warranty or wallet work?
I’m trying to prepare my budget for the inevitable……. Thanks

Rebuilt by the dealer under my Ford extended warranty.

My cost was the $50 deductible.

Total bill was $7k+ but that also included replacing the HVAC plenum that had warped.

It has a couple thousand miles on it now, and while it shifts MUCH better, it still gets the occasional "I don't know what I'm doing" shift strategy.

I had taken my truck in multiple times for both the transmission shifting issues and the HVAC freezing me while roasting my wife, only to be repeatedly told No Problem Found.

When I last dropped it off, I had already determined that it was going to be the LAST time I dropped it off. If it had come back with another No Problem Found it would have turned into No Ranger Found in my possession.

I'm very glad that they finally resolved my main complaints with the truck, but it took WAY too many trips to the dealer to get Ford to fix these very well known and documented issues..

 

[Motorpsychology]

the 10R80 is the most manually operated automatic since the postwar Chrysler Fluid Drive, which had a foot-operated hydraulic clutch instead of a torque converter. I don't think it should be babied, nor abused.
I say manually operated because its stock software is designed for fuel economy and not necessarily longevity. My truck is garage kept most of the time and is boringly bone stock. I have been following this thread for all 8 pages and thought about how I drive and maintain my 4/21-built Ranger, empty or loaded:

• "It's the same tranny that's in the F-150." Same design, many common parts, but F's 10R80s don't fail nearly as often as ours.
• In any weather, i start it first, then put on my seatbelt and release the handbrake. That 10 second warmup is probably more beneficial to my head than the truck, but that's what I do.
• Parked outdoors, I always app start it and let it run for 5+ minutes whenever it's below freezing. Every time. Goes back to when I was a kid and my dad would always let the '51 Buick Super run to warm up the Dynaflow. Otherwise it wouldn't go more than about 10mph for the first several blocks.
• In stop n go traffic, I put it in Tow/Haul mode if I'm hitting a lot of stop signs and lights, and speeds are 25-40mph. My gut feeling is that the software keeping the rpms just above idle and shifting up or down 2 or more gears at a time is hard on the whole drivetrain. T/H also deactivates the A.S.S.
• Hilly driving with 4-8%+(there is an 1/8mi 11% river valley near me) grades I use T/H for the same reasons as above, and also downshifting is better on grades.

I changed transmission fluid at 84Kmi/135Kkm, just because the hairs on the back of my neck (only place I still have hair) stand up thinking about 150Kmi old fluid. I haven't used Sport Mode since shortly after I bought the truck new, I found T/H simpler to use.

 

[woodworker]

Rebuilt by the dealer under my Ford extended warranty.

My cost was the $50 deductible.

Total bill was $7k+ but that also included replacing the HVAC plenum that had warped.

It has a couple thousand miles on it now, and while it shifts MUCH better, it still gets the occasional "I don't know what I'm doing" shift strategy.

I had taken my truck in multiple times for both the transmission shifting issues and the HVAC freezing me while roasting my wife, only to be repeatedly told No Problem Found.

When I last dropped it off, I had already determined that it was going to be the LAST time I dropped it off. If it had come back with another No Problem Found it would have turned into No Ranger Found in my possession.

I'm very glad that they finally resolved my main complaints with the truck, but it took WAY too many trips to the dealer to get Ford to fix these very well known and documented issues..

Thanks.. I wondered what the chances were of them getting it right and not causing more problems than I went in with.
That’s the way it was with that Toyota. I was ready to burn it.
On a positive note, I had a Ranger company truck pull in behind me one evening at 7-11 and it was making a funky rattle like the AC compressor was about to exit the under hood status and fall out onto the oil soaked concrete. I told the guy sounds like something is coming apart under the bonnet. He said the truck turned 300,000 and I can’t kill it. I felt pretty good after hearing that.

 

[woodworker]

the 10R80 is the most manually operated automatic since the postwar Chrysler Fluid Drive, which had a foot-operated hydraulic clutch instead of a torque converter. I don't think it should be babied, nor abused.
I say manually operated because its stock software is designed for fuel economy and not necessarily longevity. My truck is garage kept most of the time and is boringly bone stock. I have been following this thread for all 8 pages and thought about how I drive and maintain my 4/21-built Ranger, empty or loaded:

• "It's the same tranny that's in the F-150." Same design, many common parts, but F's 10R80s don't fail nearly as often as ours.
• In any weather, i start it first, then put on my seatbelt and release the handbrake. That 10 second warmup is probably more beneficial to my head than the truck, but that's what I do.
• Parked outdoors, I always app start it and let it run for 5+ minutes whenever it's below freezing. Every time. Goes back to when I was a kid and my dad would always let the '51 Buick Super run to warm up the Dynaflow. Otherwise it wouldn't go more than about 10mph for the first several blocks.
• In stop n go traffic, I put it in Tow/Haul mode if I'm hitting a lot of stop signs and lights, and speeds are 25-40mph. My gut feeling is that the software keeping the rpms just above idle and shifting up or down 2 or more gears at a time is hard on the whole drivetrain. T/H also deactivates the A.S.S.
• Hilly driving with 4-8%+(there is an 1/8mi 11% river valley near me) grades I use T/H for the same reasons as above, and also downshifting is better on grades.

I changed transmission fluid at 84Kmi/135Kkm, just because the hairs on the back of my neck (only place I still have hair) stand up thinking about 150Kmi old fluid. I haven't used Sport Mode since shortly after I bought the truck new, I found T/H simpler to use.

I agree with the economy crap, they don’t want that engine to rev or work.
I grew up a MOPAR fan, was always and still am a big fan of the old 727 slushbucket when a gear box was not an option. But the 727 like me is an antique but also like me, it was simple minded and it worked.
my Ranger is also boringly bone stock with exception of leveling kit and Bilstein coil overs.

 

[Chris M]

I didn't know there was such a club.

I'm a member of the "Got a Rebuilt 10R80 Club"

Me too.

 

[Racket]

Nate says transmission manufacturers just lie to you..

 

[Frenchy]

the 10R80 is the most manually operated automatic since the postwar Chrysler Fluid Drive, which had a foot-operated hydraulic clutch instead of a torque converter. I don't think it should be babied, nor abused.
I say manually operated because its stock software is designed for fuel economy and not necessarily longevity. My truck is garage kept most of the time and is boringly bone stock. I have been following this thread for all 8 pages and thought about how I drive and maintain my 4/21-built Ranger, empty or loaded:

• "It's the same tranny that's in the F-150." Same design, many common parts, but F's 10R80s don't fail nearly as often as ours.
• In any weather, i start it first, then put on my seatbelt and release the handbrake. That 10 second warmup is probably more beneficial to my head than the truck, but that's what I do.
• Parked outdoors, I always app start it and let it run for 5+ minutes whenever it's below freezing. Every time. Goes back to when I was a kid and my dad would always let the '51 Buick Super run to warm up the Dynaflow. Otherwise it wouldn't go more than about 10mph for the first several blocks.
• In stop n go traffic, I put it in Tow/Haul mode if I'm hitting a lot of stop signs and lights, and speeds are 25-40mph. My gut feeling is that the software keeping the rpms just above idle and shifting up or down 2 or more gears at a time is hard on the whole drivetrain. T/H also deactivates the A.S.S.
• Hilly driving with 4-8%+(there is an 1/8mi 11% river valley near me) grades I use T/H for the same reasons as above, and also downshifting is better on grades.

I changed transmission fluid at 84Kmi/135Kkm, just because the hairs on the back of my neck (only place I still have hair) stand up thinking about 150Kmi old fluid. I haven't used Sport Mode since shortly after I bought the truck new, I found T/H simpler to use.

Hate to break your little heart, but the 10R80 doesn't come close to Manual Shift Control on an Automatic. Now the POS Automatic that was in the Fuckus(Focus) and what is in the Smart For Two are Manual Transmissions that are controlled by a computer and are absolute trash. Drove a Smart For Two once and the thing granny shifted so hard that I almost thought I was going to hit the dash with my face......

 

[ctechbob]

• "It's the same tranny that's in the F-150." Same design, many common parts, but F's 10R80s don't fail nearly as often as ours.

Ohh but they do. F150's are no better off than the Rangers.

And the Ranger 10R80 is the same unit as the F150 unit, however the Ranger units have one fewer clutch disk in a few of the assemblies. (Don't remember which ones)

Sponsored