What oil will you be running after your 1st oil change?

[RedlandRanger]

Agree.. FRAM is trash, they have a great marketing campaign/budget. I also like WIX, NAPA silver/gold, M1, hastings if you can find them are still a solid choice.

I'm pretty sure the Napa filters are rebranded Wix filters. I really like the Wix filters - they just FEEL substantial. I may end up getting a motorcraft filter for my first change. I will definitely be keeping receipts for the oil changes just in case any warranty issues come up.

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[Rp930]

I like Wix also but the new synthetic Mobil 1 filter is getting my attention. Might try it.

 

[Geoff]

Amsoil Filters are excellent (as is their oil). Filters to 20 microns.

 

[jsphlynch]

Whatever you do don't buy a crappy Fram filter - at least not the orange ones - they are garbage now. It is one reason I started using Wix filters exclusively. There is a Youtube video of a guy disassembling various oil filters to see the differences. It is very enlightening.

My Dad has always called Frams the "Orange Cans of Death". I used to think he was just being dramatic, but then he started cutting open filters (even asking friends to give him their used oil filters of various brands!) to compare them. Like you said, it's very enlightening, and I haven't used a Fram since.

I'm pretty sure the Napa filters are rebranded Wix filters.

Last time I bought Wix filters, they were actually stamped with the NAPA "silver" designation.

 

[Rod f.]

Just food for thought: Have your oil tested. It's a great way to judge how much life is left in the oil.

I figured my 2.7 F-150's suggestion of 10K oil changes was a bit long, so I've been getting the oil tested. Turns out that around 4k - 6k miles, there enough fuel dilution from the direct-inject engine that the oil is not viscous enough to protect the way it should.

I agree - there are lots of great oils, but be careful, that's only part of the equation.

great thread!

(PS Don't trust the onboard life calculator. it has NOTHING to do with sensing/testing your oil. It takes into account how you drive and makes an estimate)

 

[I_smell_like_diesel]

I'm running Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5w30 and Motorcraft Filters. Rotella Gas Truck 5w30 oil falls under the Ford spec for our engines. Motorcraft filters are cheap, very good quality, and undisputably warranty friendly.

 

[fusseli]

Anybody going to try 0w30, per the owner's manual? Curiously, I don't see it on Motorcraft's website. Also curiously, there are full-synthetic Motorcraft option for 5w30 along with a 5w40 HDEO.

https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/chemicals-and-lubricants/motor-oils.html

I got addicted to tracking the Blackstone UOA oil tests on my Jeep and will be doing the same on the Ranger. I got higher than usual wear metals (iron & copper) on one oil change interval that I could almost pinpoint to an exact day, involving mountain passes and prolonged high rpm. The science and the stats are compelling. As a DIYer it couldn't hurt to have enhanced records for a warranty battle, either.

 

[t4thfavor]

Anybody going to try 0w30, per the owner's manual? Curiously, I don't see it on Motorcraft's website. Also curiously, there are full-synthetic Motorcraft option for 5w30 along with a 5w40 HDEO.

https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/chemicals-and-lubricants/motor-oils.html

hell no.

 

[CoastieN70]

Anybody going to try 0w30, per the owner's manual? Curiously, I don't see it on Motorcraft's website. Also curiously, there are full-synthetic Motorcraft option for 5w30 along with a 5w40 HDEO.

https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/chemicals-and-lubricants/motor-oils.html

I got addicted to tracking the Blackstone UOA oil tests on my Jeep and will be doing the same on the Ranger. I got higher than usual wear metals (iron & copper) on one oil change interval that I could almost pinpoint to an exact day, involving mountain passes and prolonged high rpm. The science and the stats are compelling. As a DIYer it couldn't hurt to have enhanced records for a warranty battle, either.

Oil analysis is a double edge sword. One high reading does not make for a definitive indicator but a progressive trend may be a good indication of an impending bearing failure. I have use Oil analysis for years on aircraft engines but I truly feel that unless you are hard core racing it can be a waste of money for your daily driver and weekend trail hog.

As to 0W30 full synthetic oil, it works great in Northern climates where hot weather (triple digit temps) is not prevalent but cold snowy winters are. In Northern climates it can be comfortably run year round. Living South of the Mason/Dixon Line means I will pass but if I lived in say Buffalo, NY I'd run it year round...

 

[Floyd]

Anybody going to try 0w30, per the owner's manual? Curiously, I don't see it on Motorcraft's website. Also curiously, there are full-synthetic Motorcraft option for 5w30 along with a 5w40 HDEO.

https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/chemicals-and-lubricants/motor-oils.html

I got addicted to tracking the Blackstone UOA oil tests on my Jeep and will be doing the same on the Ranger. I got higher than usual wear metals (iron & copper) on one oil change interval that I could almost pinpoint to an exact day, involving mountain passes and prolonged high rpm. The science and the stats are compelling. As a DIYer it couldn't hurt to have enhanced records for a warranty battle, either.

My truck sez 5W30 on the filler cap.
How does the cost of oil testing compare to the price of an oil change?

 

[Floyd]

Just food for thought: Have your oil tested. It's a great way to judge how much life is left in the oil.

I figured my 2.7 F-150's suggestion of 10K oil changes was a bit long, so I've been getting the oil tested. Turns out that around 4k - 6k miles, there enough fuel dilution from the direct-inject engine that the oil is not viscous enough to protect the way it should.

I agree - there are lots of great oils, but be careful, that's only part of the equation.

great thread!

(PS Don't trust the onboard life calculator. it has NOTHING to do with sensing/testing your oil. It takes into account how you drive and makes an estimate)

Fuel dilution is much more a function of very short trips than it is of fuel management.
2000 - 2mile trips would produce a lot of dilution compared to 2 -1000mile trips.
Engines which reach full operating temperature and maintain it, don't generally accumulate fuel in the crankcase. It takes about 20 minutes reach full operating temperature.
Same is true of water, which is the greater threat, I have seen in-plant trucks rust out steel oil pans from the inside from more than a quart of water accumulation between service intervals.

I will be changing my oil at 5000 mile intervals at least.
As you have said and shown... 10000 miles is a bit scary for my taste.

 

[fusseli]

My truck sez 5W30 on the filler cap.
How does the cost of oil testing compare to the price of an oil change?

Yeah owner's manual says 0w30 can be used for climates that break -20F.

Oil test cost $20-30, but if you're a nerd like me the data is worth it.

 

[jsphlynch]

Anybody going to try 0w30, per the owner's manual? Curiously, I don't see it on Motorcraft's website. Also curiously, there are full-synthetic Motorcraft option for 5w30 along with a 5w40 HDEO.

https://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/our-products/chemicals-and-lubricants/motor-oils.html

I got addicted to tracking the Blackstone UOA oil tests on my Jeep and will be doing the same on the Ranger. I got higher than usual wear metals (iron & copper) on one oil change interval that I could almost pinpoint to an exact day, involving mountain passes and prolonged high rpm. The science and the stats are compelling. As a DIYer it couldn't hurt to have enhanced records for a warranty battle, either.

Would you be so kind as to post your UOAs on this site?

 

[fusseli]

Would you be so kind as to post your UOAs on this site?

Of course! I just don't have any for the Ranger yet because I just got it. Check back this time next year

 

[fusseli]

Think of it this way, if you DIY you can get the best oil, best filter, and a UOA for less cost than a synthetic oil change just about anywhere.

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