What are you guys towing?

[Grumpaw]

Finally warm enough to get some work/maintaince done...
Spent the morning un-winterizing our rig. Checking all the systems, ect.
First trip of 2024 coming up soon....YEA !!!

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[ctechbob]

Finally warm enough to get some work/maintaince done...
Spent the morning un-winterizing our rig. Checking all the systems, ect.
First trip of 2024 coming up soon....YEA !!!

Same here. Been doing RV things all weekend. We've been de-winterized for a while now, but I pulled everything out of the passthroughs this morning, removed a few things we thought we would but never used, gave it a wash and a coat of wax, and here in a little bit going to tear into the under-bed storage and sort that out.

Ohh and I went with the work-wife to pick up her 'new to them' camper. Bit bigger than ours, but she's got more truck too. Have to go over this week and set up her E2 hitch when it gets here.

 

[dtech]

Finally warm enough to get some work/maintaince done...
Spent the morning un-winterizing our rig. Checking all the systems, ect.
First trip of 2024 coming up soon....YEA !!!

Grumpaw - pic of my trailer, UVW is 4162 , I think tongue weight is 450 , after 4 trips towing with the Ranger I'm not thrilled with how it tows and eats gas, but I've never towed anything over 2,500 lbs in the past. One thing that happens is the up and down motion transmitted to the Ranger when going over undulating pavement - IIRC you mention installing some air suspension components on the Ranger - what are they are what was the cost, I assume these would help with the up and down rocking.
the other thing I'm looking into is what a neighbor of mine did recently, he tows a 6k travel trailer and recently picked up a yukon denali with the 6.2l V8 and says it tows great and gets 13 to 14 mpg, he replaced an older F150 .
Probably look at a used yukon if I go that route as wife needs a new car, I'd keep the Ranger as I,m happy with it with the exception of towing performance. I do have an E2 wdh but have towed with and without it and it doesn't make a big difference.
In a way a big change for me as prior to buying the NOBO I was even considering an EV to replace the wife's aging Hyundai Sante Fe, now contemplating buying a big gas guzzling V8, might also take a look at a Ford Expedition, I think they still make them.
On the NOBO users site there are a good number of users that say the NOBO tows nicely compared to other trailers they've owned.
what would be nice if I could retrofit the Ranger with Ford's backup trailer SW, I have to park the NOBO in a narrow spot and I'm not great at doing that and the wife is pretty lame when it comes to helping out.

 

[Grumpaw]

Grumpaw - pic of my trailer, UVW is 4162 , I think tongue weight is 450 , after 4 trips towing with the Ranger I'm not thrilled with how it tows and eats gas, but I've never towed anything over 2,500 lbs in the past. One thing that happens is the up and down motion transmitted to the Ranger when going over undulating pavement - IIRC you mention installing some air suspension components on the Ranger - what are they are what was the cost, I assume these would help with the up and down rocking.
the other thing I'm looking into is what a neighbor of mine did recently, he tows a 6k travel trailer and recently picked up a yukon denali with the 6.2l V8 and says it tows great and gets 13 to 14 mpg, he replaced an older F150 .
Probably look at a used yukon if I go that route as wife needs a new car, I'd keep the Ranger as I,m happy with it with the exception of towing performance. I do have an E2 wdh but have towed with and without it and it doesn't make a big difference.
In a way a big change for me as prior to buying the NOBO I was even considering an EV to replace the wife's aging Hyundai Sante Fe, now contemplating buying a big gas guzzling V8, might also take a look at a Ford Expedition, I think they still make them.
On the NOBO users site there are a good number of users that say the NOBO tows nicely compared to other trailers they've owned.
what would be nice if I could retrofit the Ranger with Ford's backup trailer SW, I have to park the NOBO in a narrow spot and I'm not great at doing that and the wife is pretty lame when it comes to helping out.

MPG while towing is lousy, it is what it is and there is nothing you can do to increase it. AT 60-65 you'll be getting around 10-12, a few mpg better at lower speed. I've been rv'ing for over 50 years, and the first thing any rv'er will tell you is if your worried about mpg, get rid of it and stay at Motel 6.
As far as the porpoising....thats the soft suspension on the Ranger, especially the rear. A set of good rear shocks, along with an air bag set up or what I have, a Roadmaster Active Suspension set up will take care of it
One thing that contributes to the up n down is the fact that your trailer is a single axle with what looks like a long front area in front of the axle. As you go over the undulating road surface, the front of the trailer is also going up and down, transmitting the movement to the truck.....that's where stiffening up the rear truck suspension will help.
I don't know how your hitch is set up, but the way it 's set up also contributes to the movement.
If your running a WD hitch, what are the bars rated at, is trailer a bit nose down when hooked up ???

 

[Stevedbvik1]

MPG while towing is lousy, it is what it is and there is nothing you can do to increase it. AT 60-65 you'll be getting around 10-12, a few mpg better at lower speed. I've been rv'ing for over 50 years, and the first thing any rv'er will tell you is if your worried about mpg, get rid of it and stay at Motel 6.
As far as the porpoising....thats the soft suspension on the Ranger, especially the rear. A set of good rear shocks, along with an air bag set up or what I have, a Roadmaster Active Suspension set up will take care of it
One thing that contributes to the up n down is the fact that your trailer is a single axle with what looks like a long front area in front of the axle. As you go over the undulating road surface, the front of the trailer is also going up and down, transmitting the movement to the truck.....that's where stiffening up the rear truck suspension will help.
I don't know how your hitch is set up, but the way it 's set up also contributes to the movement.
If your running a WD hitch, what are the bars rated at, is trailer a bit nose down when hooked up ???

We noticed a huge difference in ride going from a single axle 4500 lb Surveyor to a tandem axle 6000 lb Gulfstream. Tandem axle is so much more stable. Not a huge difference in mpg either. We have a Tremor so I think the rear suspension is a little bit better than a non Tremor.

 

[Grumpaw]

Let me also add, if your weights are from the manufacturers specs, the weights, especially the tongue weight, is without the battery and propane tanks. Trailers are usually shipped without them, and are added at the dealer.
You need to consider an extra 100 lbs to the tongue weight (around 40 lbs for the battery and 60 lbs for two filled propane tanks. Then there is the weight you have added for any loaded items forward of the axle....it all adds to the tongue weight.
If that 450 was spec weight, you might be closer to 600 lbs tongue weight.
So, depending on what your hitch set up is rated for, that might be a factor. A trailer with that heavy of a tongue weight requires a weight dist, hitch set up. You definitely should not be towing that kind of tongue weight without a WD hitch.

 

[dtech]

MPG while towing is lousy, it is what it is and there is nothing you can do to increase it. AT 60-65 you'll be getting around 10-12, a few mpg better at lower speed. I've been rv'ing for over 50 years, and the first thing any rv'er will tell you is if your worried about mpg, get rid of it and stay at Motel 6.
As far as the porpoising....thats the soft suspension on the Ranger, especially the rear. A set of good rear shocks, along with an air bag set up or what I have, a Roadmaster Active Suspension set up will take care of it
One thing that contributes to the up n down is the fact that your trailer is a single axle with what looks like a long front area in front of the axle. As you go over the undulating road surface, the front of the trailer is also going up and down, transmitting the movement to the truck.....that's where stiffening up the rear truck suspension will help.
I don't know how your hitch is set up, but the way it 's set up also contributes to the movement.
If your running a WD hitch, what are the bars rated at, is trailer a bit nose down when hooked up ???

Trailer is down slightly at the front, WDH is rated at 600 lbs tongue, 6,000 trailer weight, I've not loaded it much - min fresh water and then mostly clothes and some food. . The porpoising only occurs at lower speeds but it gets one's attention. The Ranger tows ok, but I do know from friends who tow horse trailers that they experience several miles uptick in mps when they switched from the smaller displacement GM V8 to the 6.2l , so engine size does matter. I know some on here will staunchly defend the tow capabilities of the Ranger but a good many on RV forums started out with minimal tow vehicles and end up switching to V8s or diesels. The single axle trailer was an informed decision, it's an independent suspension and folks on the NOBO site who have towed both double axle and now single axle say the single axle NOBOs don't lessen the experience by any noticeable amount. I'll look into the rear suspension. I can certainly live with the Ranger as my tow vehicle, just investigating ways to improve and other options. Those Yukon Denalis are pretty nice but also $$$$ .

 

[dtech]

Let me also add, if your weights are from the manufacturers specs, the weights, especially the tongue weight, is without the battery and propane tanks. Trailers are usually shipped without them, and are added at the dealer.
You need to consider an extra 100 lbs to the tongue weight (around 40 lbs for the battery and 60 lbs for two filled propane tanks. Then there is the weight you have added for any loaded items forward of the axle....it all adds to the tongue weight.
If that 450 was spec weight, you might be closer to 600 lbs tongue weight.
So, depending on what your hitch set up is rated for, that might be a factor. A trailer with that heavy of a tongue weight requires a weight dist, hitch set up. You definitely should not be towing that kind of tongue weight without a WD hitch.

The NOBO is made by Forest River who does claim that the tongue weight includes propane tanks (empty I believe ) and the battery. Model of E2 hitch was recommended by E2 , they felt their 8k lbs rated unit would be too stiff. On the NOBO forums a few folks had a tongue weight scale and reported the tongue weight under 500lbs .

 

[Grumpaw]

Trailer is down slightly at the front, WDH is rated at 600 lbs tongue, 6,000 trailer weight, I've not loaded it much - min fresh water and then mostly clothes and some food. . The porpoising only occurs at lower speeds but it gets one's attention. The Ranger tows ok, but I do know from friends who tow horse trailers that they experience several miles uptick in mps when they switched from the smaller displacement GM V8 to the 6.2l , so engine size does matter. I know some on here will staunchly defend the tow capabilities of the Ranger but a good many on RV forums started out with minimal tow vehicles and end up switching to V8s or diesels. The single axle trailer was an informed decision, it's an independent suspension and folks on the NOBO site who have towed both double axle and now single axle say the single axle NOBOs don't lessen the experience by any noticeable amount. I'll look into the rear suspension. I can certainly live with the Ranger as my tow vehicle, just investigating ways to improve and other options. Those Yukon Denalis are pretty nice but also $$$$ .

The Ranger, depending on the size of the trailer AND the experience of the rv'er is what makes the truck an adequate tow vehicle. By no means is it the best....an F-150 would do a better job.
The choice is based on the owners needs. In my case, the truck MUST fit in my garage, and only the Ranger is a fit. If my garage were bigger, than I probably would be driving an F-150 scab. If we had chosen to go with a bigger trailer, than an F-150 would be needed.
our rig, towed by the Ranger, does just fine, but I will admit, it is on the border of being to heavy....not there, but close, and thats where my experience comes in....I'm very comfortable towing it.
I believe your Ranger/trailer set up is fine....but many of us have experienced, needs to be "tweaked" to get it right. A good set of rear shocks and an air bag or Roadmaster set up will run $600-$800 bucks....lot's cheaper than another vehicle.

 

[dtech]

The Ranger, depending on the size of the trailer AND the experience of the rv'er is what makes the truck an adequate tow vehicle. By no means is it the best....an F-150 would do a better job.
The choice is based on the owners needs. In my case, the truck MUST fit in my garage, and only the Ranger is a fit. If my garage were bigger, than I probably would be driving an F-150 scab. If we had chosen to go with a bigger trailer, than an F-150 would be needed.
our rig, towed by the Ranger, does just fine, but I will admit, it is on the border of being to heavy....not there, but close, and thats where my experience comes in....I'm very comfortable towing it.
I believe your Ranger/trailer set up is fine....but many of us have experienced, needs to be "tweaked" to get it right. A good set of rear shocks and an air bag or Roadmaster set up will run $600-$800 bucks....lot's cheaper than another vehicle.

thanks - good info . wouldn't be considering a V8 engine vehicle except need to replace wife's Hyundai Sante Fe 2.0T , I've been driving 4 cylinder turbos since the 80s so know their attributes well. But also acknowledge those old school larger displacement push rod V8s still excel at some things, GM in a particular has done a good job modernizing their V8 engines. I have the luxury of large 3 car garage with one slot being around 40' deep , the other 2 slots can accommodate full sized pickups. I did hit over 13 mpg towing the ranger back from a trip to AZ , mostly stayed off the interstates and kept speed below 60 mph. I'm good with that but when it drops to 10 mpg get a little bit disgruntled. On that trip to AZ on the outbound leg I drove i-70 and maybe i-15 thru Utah, a good deal of up and downs in elevation and some higher winds, was going 65 mph and getting 10 mpg. Halfway thru decided to remove the tow bars to see what difference that made and detected a bit of additional sway bit not a whole lot - my opinion would be that the Ranger tows reasonably well without the wdh. But I've not loaded the trailer up with a whole lot of additional weight.

 

[Grumpaw]

We have been out thru Az, Utah, New Mex, Col, Wy, Mont, and yes, all you can expect at 65 mph is around 10-12 mpg, depending on wind and elevation. Just put it in tow mode and don't worry about mpg. I know it's a hard pill to swallow, but even going to a bigger truck will not get you much more.
Been out there in motor homes, larger trailers and trucks, and it will all average about the same.
When you consider the money difference between 10 and 15 mpg over a 1000 mile trip, it's really not that much.....100 gallons at 10 mpg vs 70 gallons at 15 mpg.....maybe $120 difference....not enough to cancel a trip over and less than a hotel room for a night.
Additionally, we have 2 dogs that go with us every trip. If we didn't have an RV, and stayed at hotel/motels every night, we couldn't take them with us, have to board them, and that is easily $100-$120 per day for 2 dogs.

 

[ctechbob]

You can't fight physics. It is always going to take a certain amount of fuel to drag a payload at a certain speed and distance. Powertrains these days are getting to the point where they are almost equal in regards to efficiency, especially with 8-10 speed gearboxes.

A V8 isn't a miracle pill, any modern V8 towing a like load at a like speed is most likely also going to get about 10mpg.

--Edit--

Another thing working against the Nobo is that they are on that upgraded suspension, which puts them higher into the airstream, more wind resistance, more power to tow, more fuel used.

 

[Big Blue]

Back to one of your first questions (concerns) the porpoising. I agree with @Grumpaw stiffing up the back suspension will help. Also, possibly try adjusting the tension on your hitch bars. This will change the stiffness between the truck and the trailer. As I am sure Grumpaw will agree getting your hitch setup just right can be a little trial and error.

One other thing I have found, is some concrete paved highways will be especially nasty. They get something I have heard called potato chiping. Maybe it is a mid-west thing, our winters. They get a cupping to the pavement blocks and set up a vibration that will drive you nuts. Nothing you can do will stop it.

 

[ctechbob]

I agree with @Big Blue and @Grumpaw, check the hitch setup.

The E2's require tension to be on them in order for the anti-sway to work. they rely on the friction of the spring bars on the L brackets. You didn't put any lube on there did you?

Make sure that you are transferring at least 1/2 of the weight back onto the front of the truck with the bars, and certainly don't rely on the shop that sold it to you to set it up. They are 'guessing' 100% of the time they put these things on. It is worth t to go back through the manual step by step, with a fully loaded trailer/vehicle (Loaded as you would normally travel) and change the washers/brackets until you get it right on the money.

 

[dtech]

The E2's require tension to be on them in order for the anti-sway to work. they rely on the friction of the spring bars on the L brackets. You didn't put any lube on there did you?

Make sure that you are transferring at least 1/2 of the weight back onto the front of the truck with the bars, and certainly don't rely on the shop that sold it to you to set it up. They are 'guessing' 100% of the time they put these things on. It is worth t to go back through the manual step by step, with a fully loaded trailer/vehicle (Loaded as you would normally travel) and change the washers/brackets until you get it right on the money.
[/QUOTE]
The spring bars have plenty of tension, almost too difficult to load onto the
L brackets, I set this up myself and followed the measuring of the Ranger front end height so the wdh does transfer weight forward. I think if someone drove my setup they'd likely say it's fine, the nobo does stand 10' high, 10' 6" at the ac, so yes high but not like some of those 11' rigs. I bought it for both use in rv sites and backcountry use, the independent suspension makes a big difference in handling uneven surfaces without stressing the trailer frame. Now I will disagree on boosted 4 cylinder vs na v8 as it pertains to towing, many vehicles only use a fraction of their power at cruising speeds but towing changes that equation and a 4 cyl is going to be running boost which generally negatively impacts fuel efficiency whereas a larger displacement v8 essentially stays in an efficient rpm range without relying on boost, when using tow mode on the Ranger I'm in 7th 8th and 9th gears a whole lot and those higher rpms and need for boost impacts mpg. It may not be much of an mpg gain but it also means less strain on the drivetrain. in talking with people that tow with v8 or diesels the fuel milage drops while towing but not to the 50% decrease of the Ranger. In my subdivision every home has rv parking and well over half of the homes have RVs so I get to talk to a lot of owners , some have mammoth RVs and they get around the same mpg as the Ranger.

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