Transmission Issues

[airline tech]

Shouldn’t matter what speed your fan is turning if the fan is balanced! Yours doesn’t sound like it was balanced!
Hope you get your transmission issues solved, it is frustrating.

It might have thrown the weight off of the squirrel cage - they are just clipped on the blades

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[SFB]

It might have thrown the weight off of the squirrel cage - they are just clipped on the blades

If it was put on at all! I thought it was an issue from the beginning

 

[JHC14]

I was going to say - the manual says to replace at 100k - I did mine about 40k and they were already looking a bit tired. I can only imagine what 100k plugs would look like.

This is what 105,000 mile plugs look like. The very back one, #4 I guess, is the one with the rust around it.

 

[RedlandRanger]

This is what 105,000 mile plugs look like. The very back one, #4 I guess, is the one with the rust around it.

I'm glad you were able to get #4 out without too much trouble - those do look very tired.

 

[SFB]

This is what 105,000 mile plugs look like. The very back one, #4 I guess, is the one with the rust around it.

Need to show the electrodes, can only see the one, I’m sure the rest are similar. That’s a mighty big gap! I’m at 65k maybe I should take a look

 

[TJC]

Today, with 20750 miles on the clock I completed almost all my maintenance on the Ranger.

Changed:

- Both Differentials oil. Used Redline 75-90 synthetic. Front was clear but had fine metal on the magnet. The rear diff was black and had a lot more metal dust on the magnet, No big chunks in either.

- Transfer case oil. Easy to do. (Thanks Ford) My 2 post lift really helps when you closing in on 70. the Mercon LV OIl was black, but had a tinge or red still. Saw fine metal particulates on the fluid. Used Redline D6 ATF.

- Changed Engine Oil and filter - Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. OIl was dirty. Changed it at 4800 miles. Going longer than 5K miles between changes I think may be a recipe for disaster.

- Added an additional 8 oz of LubeGard Platinum to the transmission. There is now 18 oz in it. Had a slight hard shift in 4th. i really can't complain as it is only slightly more noticeable than all the other gears, but much smoother than my 2005 Ranger. Still I wanted it to be more in line with the other 9 gears.

- Lubed my Tom Woods Driveshaft slip joint. Very easy. About a month ago I purchased a battery operated electric grease gun for $99 from Harbor Freight (with battery and Charger). Then added a LockNLube coupler that adjusts to fit any size grease fitting. Tried it out today with my Type 1 Grease. Pulled the trigger, it whirred and within 30 seconds I saw a tad bit of grease easing out the scrub seal on the yoke! Nice!

Went for a test spin of about 20 miles. 4th is now as smooth as the other gears, and the slightly annoying bump when I come to stop is gone.

Spark plugs are next. Got a set if Iridiums going in soon.

I've got a 1500 mile trip coming up, but wife is still gun shy of the Ranger. Worries about it stranding us half way. Still have time to see if the transmission fix holds up. I am gaining more confidence each day.

 

[Reaper_Less]

I’m also curious about the 22206 number and wondering if that is the transmission production date ( June 20 2022)? On my new transmission it’s 24156 ( June 15 2024?). The six digit number could be a serial number? Also on my tag there is the extra “ss” next to the “awp” . The 24156 and 132315 also show up on the sol strategy/sol body id tag which is on the opposite side of the transmission. It would be nice to have an explanation of all the data on the tags.

So in another chat, we believe the numbers point to Julian Date. So 2 digit year, 3 digit day (365). So 22206 is July 25, 2022. And 24156 is June 4, 2024.

 

[maxbottomtime]

Alright I’m resurrecting this. Had similar cold start issues on and off, bought the ESP. 6 hours into a 13 hour road trip I got the wrench and check engine light. Transmission seemingly slipping, goes to limp mode, harsh shift map.

Dealer said there was “nothing wrong with it - no codes”

Check engine light and wrench lit up still… I told them I pulled battery terminal to try and clear to see if it was an electrical gremlin that would sort itself.

I guess the warranty person is out until Monday. 6 hours later and I get a ride the hour to the nearest open enterprise, included with base care but apparently I’ll be begging to get reimbursed. Onward with the remaining 7 hours of driving (after driving the hour back from enterprise to load my things).

I am hoping they can get it fixed under my ESP before I am driving back through the first week of Jan.

car is at 72K miles, but harsh shifting, lost “reverse” on cold starts have been symptoms since 20-30K miles.

I’m hoping they take care of me and don’t try to blame something unrelated to deny the claim.

 

[SFB]

Alright I’m resurrecting this. Had similar cold start issues on and off, bought the ESP. 6 hours into a 13 hour road trip I got the wrench and check engine light. Transmission seemingly slipping, goes to limp mode, harsh shift map.

Dealer said there was “nothing wrong with it - no codes”

Check engine light and wrench lit up still… I told them I pulled battery terminal to try and clear to see if it was an electrical gremlin that would sort itself.

I guess the warranty person is out until Monday. 6 hours later and I get a ride the hour to the nearest open enterprise, included with base care but apparently I’ll be begging to get reimbursed. Onward with the remaining 7 hours of driving (after driving the hour back from enterprise to load my things).

I am hoping they can get it fixed under my ESP before I am driving back through the first week of Jan.

car is at 72K miles, but harsh shifting, lost “reverse” on cold starts have been symptoms since 20-30K miles.

I’m hoping they take care of me and don’t try to blame something unrelated to deny the claim.

I have a harsh, with sometimes acting if in neutral, its not its just won't go into 2nd when cold. Once it warms up all is good! 82k miles. I also have ESP till next September 2026. Problem for me is if you take it in and it doesn't do it for the dealer then it's a 240 dollar diagnostic charge. So I'm waiting for consistence before I take it in. There is one work around, Sport mode, when cold I use sport mode and manually shift to 2nd to start off in, you can tell too if it would have been a problem morning, very hard manually shifting to second. Once warm all good...Ugh, PIA for sure... My dealer is pretty good to honor ESP, have had to use it, so far, only once, had thermostat replaced, was sticking open. Good luck

 

[TJC]

I have a harsh, with sometimes acting if in neutral, its not its just won't go into 2nd when cold. Once it warms up all is good! 82k miles. I also have ESP till next September 2026. Problem for me is if you take it in and it doesn't do it for the dealer then it's a 240 dollar diagnostic charge. So I'm waiting for consistence before I take it in. There is one work around, Sport mode, when cold I use sport mode and manually shift to 2nd to start off in, you can tell too if it would have been a problem morning, very hard manually shifting to second. Once warm all good...Ugh, PIA for sure... My dealer is pretty good to honor ESP, have had to use it, so far, only once, had thermostat replaced, was sticking open. Good luck

Sounds like valve body solenoid sticking. Have you ever changed the fluid?

 

[SFB]

Sounds like valve body solenoid sticking. Have you ever changed the fluid?

Yes, around 50K

 

[Realtruck]

This is what 105,000 mile plugs look like. The very back one, #4 I guess, is the one with the rust around it.

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