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Maximizing Battery Life

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TJC

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I'm skeptical that it's desulfation, my understanding is that works on pulses of current to break the crytals, I suspect what you are seeing is the charging system going into saturation mode , high voltage at 14.5 but very low amperage because the battery is fully charged and the accessory draw is relatively low. With colder temps a bit more power is required to maintain the charge, so although volts maybe slightly lower amperage is higher, to understand if this correct you would need to monitor the current in the circuit or get your hands on documentation. All of this possible with modern power regulation systems.
I am also skeptical that the high voltage is due to desulfating taking place. It is more likely that internal resistance is the problem, or the battery age data in concert with the battery's Internal resistance.

The BatteryMinder uses high frequency pulses, not high voltage or current per se. The BatteryMinder actually varies the frequencies to ensure sulfur crystals of varying sizes are all broken up. Think the soprano hitting those high notes to break the champagne glass. I have not checked for a while, but when I did several years ago, most desulfators used only a single frequency.

The only reason the BatteryMinder comes on at 13.5V is to insure it does not discharge the battery below the voltage where sulfation begins, ~ 12.65V. I have recently read from a single source (not VDC) that the desulfator stays active until the battery voltage drops below 13V. I have not verified this yet.

I'd put the battery on a quality desulfator for a month or so whenever the truck is not in use. If it is sulfated, it is going to take at least that long to fully recover it. Keep it on until you see a plateau in CCA rating.

My old old battery is on a BM 2amp float charger with a desulfator running nonstop. I thought it had topped out 2 weeks ago at about 75% SOH, but I checked it a few days ago and it was at 706 CCA(up from the mid to upper 670- 680 CCA range IIRC - I know it was not near 690CCA ).

The battery is rated at 725 CCA. So it is still becoming healthier. You just have to be patient. It took time to build up and it takes time to break it down.

My 2020 Ranger battery now rates well over 1000 CCA when rested just using the onboard desulfator when driving the truck. It only gets out 2-3 times a week for 20 - 40 miles at a time. I am seeing 13.5V-13.8V, usually 13.6V-13.7V now (The BMS sensor disconnected since I installed the onboard desulfator). It never hits 14 since the weather warmed up. That's float charge territory. My 2005 Ranger's battery rates over 1100 CCA and that truck is driven less than the 2020 Ranger, usually once, sometimes twice a week for 40 miles. It has been on the onboard desulfator since it was installed, and I broke it in by charging / desulfating it for a week when I first installed it. Whenever it was not in use it was on the desulfator.

Now I simply drive them. Out sight out of mind. Once I get them healthy, I check the battery condition at each oil change.

Neither truck now requires auxiliary periodic charging.
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got3fords

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My old old battery is on a BM 2amp float charger with a desulfator running nonstop. I thought it had topped out 2 weeks ago at about 75% SOH, but I checked it a few days ago and it was at 706 CCA(up from the mid to upper 670- 680 CCA range IIRC - I know it was not near 690CCA ).
How do modern battery testers test CCA's? It's not like the old carbon pile load testers is it?
 

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How do modern battery testers test CCA's? It's not like the old carbon pile load testers is it?
From Battery University Website:

Mechanics prefer small sizes and device manufactures have developed handheld testers, which induce a momentary high-current pulse that corresponds to the entered CCA value. Ohm’s law calculates the internal resistance on hand of the induced voltage drop, and the device provides a CCA-equivalent reading. This test method is fast and convenient, but it does not estimate capacity.

The AC conductance method reads CCA by injecting a single frequency of 80–90 hertz to the battery. These non-invasive units are small and stay cool during the test, but the battery should have a SoC of 70 percent and higher. As with other resistance-based test methods, AC conductance cannot read capacity.
 
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TJC

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They do not load the battery. Personally, I think loading the battery to test it is unhealthy for the battery. It is very easy to drain it too low. No need to stress it when you can use an electronic tester to test the resistance. With a load test, no matter what the result, you are going to end up having to recharge the battery to get it back to optimal condition.

Years ago I tested a battery with my old electronic tester, and then followed up with my carbon pile load tester. The results were nearly identical. After the carbon pile load test I had to recharged the battery. This isn't necessary with the electronic versions.

I am not sure of the magic involved, but I did test the accuracy, and i am satisfied. Test for yourself, just be sure to use the electronic tester first to get accurate results. There is no way to get accurate results if you use the old carbon pile load tester first due to the large battery drain involved.
 

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Just a quick test this AM on Battery
Health - 93% - 771 CCA
Charge - 98% -12.59 Volts
Internal R - 3.21 M/Ohms
Rated - 800 CCA

So, compared to last test in January, I am about the same.
Took delivery of truck 7 months ago, so battery is still new and 5,000 miles.
 


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From Battery University Website:

Mechanics prefer small sizes and device manufactures have developed handheld testers, which induce a momentary high-current pulse that corresponds to the entered CCA value. Ohm’s law calculates the internal resistance on hand of the induced voltage drop, and the device provides a CCA-equivalent reading. This test method is fast and convenient, but it does not estimate capacity.

The AC conductance method reads CCA by injecting a single frequency of 80–90 hertz to the battery. These non-invasive units are small and stay cool during the test, but the battery should have a SoC of 70 percent and higher. As with other resistance-based test methods, AC conductance cannot read capacity.
Wow, that helps a lot. I wonder which method most modern hand-helds use, like TopDon BT100 or BT300.
 
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The little HF Viking tester requires you enter the manufacturers CCA rating to determine the CCA, so I surmise it uses momentary high current method.
 

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Conductance Method

Battery Test Result Apr 23.webp
 
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TJC

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Here are my present Battery results from today

2005 Ranger
2005 Ranger Battery Report.jpg


2020 Ranger Battery Report
2020 Ranger Battery Report.jpg

Interesting how the numbers change 12 hours later. I also raised the hood the night before and left it up to keep me from energizing the AMP Powersteps and cabin features on the next reading, which are going to cause an immediate load on the battery ad very well may change the results.

So...
SOC rose from 73% to 88%
CCA dropped from 943 to 912 (still very very good!)
Voltage rose from 12.44V to 12.53V
Internal Resistance rose from 3.18 mOhm to 3.28 mOhm

Remember, the initial reading required me to open the door to open the hood, and this activated the steps and powered up all the cabin "features", and maybe the fuel pump. It makes a difference.
2020 Ranger Battery Report- 12 hours later .jpg
 
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got3fords

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Here are my present Battery results from today

2005 Ranger
2005 Ranger Battery Report.jpg


2020 Ranger Battery Report
2020 Ranger Battery Report.jpg
Curious, you mounted the '05 Ranger deslufator up in the brake lines?
 
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TJC

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Curious, you mounted the '05 Ranger deslufator up in the brake lines?
Right on top of the antilock brake unit. It has felt on the bottom and does not move. So yes I mounted below the brake lines. Been there for years and years.
 

got3fords

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Right on top of the antilock brake unit. It has felt on the bottom and does not move. So yes I mounted below the brake lines. Been there for years and years.
Ok, just confused it with your R5G mounting, which sounded similar.
 
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Similar but different. I want it away from heat and weather, easily accessible, but not needing to be removed when battery replacement is required.
 

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So I had to make another trek to Folsom (150 miles) and it was in the upper 50's-60's on the way up. My voltage stayed between 14.5 and 14.6 all the way up. Once I got here and the temps went into the 70's and I was driving around town it was anywhere between 14.3 at initial start up and 14.0. Mostly around 14.0 and 14.1. My CCA this morning with the temp at 50 degrees was 711.

Curiously, auto stop/start has not been working while up there. Charging power (my USB conversion) stays on for 20-30 minutes at least though.

I've yet to do the desulfating with the NOCO 5. Seems I'll need a good 4 hours and the battery disconnected to use that repair mode.

@TJC I reread the entire thread and it reminded me that you have this device installed. I'm now tempted to get one of those and just install it in the truck.
 
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So I had to make another trek to Folsom (150 miles) and it was in the upper 50's-60's on the way up. My voltage stayed between 14.5 and 14.6 all the way up. Once I got here and the temps went into the 70's and I was driving around town it was anywhere between 14.3 at initial start up and 14.0. Mostly around 14.0 and 14.1. My CCA this morning with the temp at 50 degrees was 711.

Curiously, auto stop/start has not been working while up there. Charging power (my USB conversion) stays on for 20-30 minutes at least though.

I've yet to do the desulfating with the NOCO 5. Seems I'll need a good 4 hours and the battery disconnected to use that repair mode.

@TJC I reread the entire thread and it reminded me that you have this device installed. I'm now tempted to get one of those and just install it in the truck.
I have not disconnected my battery to charge or desulfate it. I worry a little about losing engine, transmission, and radio settings.

Depending on the level of sulfation, it may take 2 weeks or more to desulfate a battery. I doubt 4 hours will do very much. Maybe the Nico does a better job than my BatteryMinder.

I have had very good luck with the three I have been using on my autos.
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