What oil will you be running after your 1st oil change?

[Amsoil guy]

Any insight appreciated.

My info is from the Technical Dept at Amsoil who know the formulations . For questions such as these.

J

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[HenryMac]

Only have 540km on the Ranger. After the break in I will be putting AMSOIL Signature Series and an Amsoil filter.

Amsoil’s 5W30 Signature Series has 1300 ppm of Calcium and 1000 ppm of Magneseum to meet Fords Specs for the LSPI Motors.. It’s a requirement from Ford in order to be able to recommend an oil to make sure the right protection is there and warranty approved.
J

Got any independent testing results that back that up?

The PQIA data shows 3,619 ppm Calcium and 19 ppm Magnesium.

 

[Desertranger19]

I am just going to throw in my 2 cents... I have worked at a Ford service dept for over 20 years and still do to this day. I work with Field service engineers directly alot of times with troubled vehicles that our dealer has issues with. When we have to call engineering and our own Extended service plan, they ask for maintenance records for any kind of engine repairs that exceed 1200 bucks. When alot of DIY oil change receipts cant be obtain from the customer, Ford can deny the claim. Its always nice having a ford dealership keep the records for you and there is never any issues with any kind of engine or trans replacements. Is Motorcraft synthetic blend the best oil out there? Im sure it isnt, but a 5k mile interval is more then adequate to keep our Ecoboost engines running great. My dad has over 250k miles in his engine and religiously changes his oil at 5k. I had to replace a phaser about a month ago for a slight phaser knock and popped the valve cover off, and we was very surprised how clean the underside of it looked. and we use nothing but Motorcraft, just saying. but to each his own.

 

[Dmax]

I am just going to through in my 2 cents... I have worked at a Ford service dept for over 20 years and still do to this day. I work with Field service engineers directly alot of times with troubled vehicles that our dealer has issues with. When we have to call engineering and our own Extended service plan, they ask for maintenance records for any kind of engine repairs that exceed 1200 bucks. When alot of DIY oil change receipts cant be obtain from the customer, Ford can deny the claim. Its always nice having a ford dealership keep the records for you and there is never any issues with any kind of engine or trans replacements. Is Motorcraft synthetic blend the best oil out there? Im sure it isnt, but a 5k mile interval is more then adequate to keep our Ecoboost engines running great. My dad has over 250k miles in his engine and religiously changes his oil at 5k. I had to replace a phaser about a month ago for a slight phaser knock and popped the valve cover off, and we was very surprised how clean the underside of it looked. and we use nothing but Motorcraft, just saying. but to each his own.

Good insight. What does a diy oil changed need to do to make sure he doesn’t get denied. I have a journal with date and mikes I have receipt of oils/filters I have bought in bulk. Anything else?

 

[Desertranger19]

Good insight. What does a diy oil changed need to do to make sure he doesn’t get denied. I have a journal with date and mikes I have receipt of oils/filters I have bought in bulk. Anything else?

hand written logs wont help unless they are just more of a date and time of what was done. Receipts with parts and oil quantity and amounts are though. say like they will sometimes verify if say the truck takes an FL-910, and you have a Fram X filter that its the equivalent to use. or if only 4 quarts of oil bought and the vehicle takes 6, well they might say you left it low on oil to begin with. BUT, receipts of oil and filters are good no matter what brand, just make sure you have mileage written down and the receipt should have the time stamp.

 

[Dmax]

hand written logs wont help unless they are just more of a date and time of what was done. Receipts with parts and oil quantity and amounts are though. say like they will sometimes verify if say the truck takes an FL-910, and you have a Fram X filter that its the equivalent to use. or if only 4 quarts of oil bought and the vehicle takes 6, well they might say you left it low on oil to begin with. BUT, receipts of oil and filters are good no matter what brand, just make sure you have mileage written down and the receipt should have the time stamp.

I bought in bulk with oil and filter. Wrote down mileage, date, amount used, and kinds of oil/filter. What else ???

 

[GTGallop]

My truck came with 2 years of free oil changes and tire rotations from Peoria Ford. Since I do both on the 5k intervals, that's where I'm going. I assume they use MotorCraft oil.

However........ After that, I'll probably go back to Valvoline Synthetic.

I use to be a Mobil 1 guy from way back in the 70's - even in the lawn mower. Mobil 1 was a far superior oil back then. But in the 80's when Castrol started offering a Synthetic, they changed the entire oil market.

Up to then, there was no legal criteria to meet "synthetic" standards. And your Synthetic oil is still Dino-Juice. It's just way better refined. Mobil 1 and a handfull of others were Group IV PAOI. Which is just a level of refinement. Castrol started marketing their oil as a Syn but it was only Group III PAOI - slightly less refined. The others sued Castrol because it wasn't "synthetic enough."

Eventually Castrol won because "Synthetic" is just a marketing term used for higher levels of refined oil but there was no industry standard benchmark. So the industry adopted Group III PAOI as their benchmark for Synthetic and Mobil 1 and the rest started making a less refined product.

But - Competition now required them to differentiate their products from each other so they started adding in different stuff like surfactants and dispersants and Zinc and Molybdenum and other things like that. Turns out the difference to oil performance between Group III and Group IV PAOI was negligible and the additive packages made a bigger difference.

The net net was we came out of the 80's with MUCH improved oil, but Castrol has always left a funk in my mouth because they got us there by playing dirty pool in how they marketed their product to customers.

So over the years I've run:
Mobil 1
Castrol
Penzoil
Amsoil
Valvoline

All synthetic...
I've also tried a handful of oil additives like Lucas and some stuff with PTFE in it. Basically all of the additives turned out to be snake oil. Nothing I'll be using again.

I've settled on Valvoline for now. I like it.
I add in about a cup of Automatic Trans Fluid when my oild change hits 4500 miles and then on the way to the oil change I'll add a little Seafoam to the oil as it's heating up. The idea is tha the detergent in the ATF (plain old red stuff) cleans out the engine and the Seafoam thins the oil a little to flush out the crevices. Maybe it's a bad idea and I'm certainly open to hearing reasons I should / not continue doing it.

 

[meistreguy]

My truck came with 2 years of free oil changes and tire rotations from Peoria Ford. Since I do both on the 5k intervals, that's where I'm going. I assume they use MotorCraft oil.

However........ After that, I'll probably go back to Valvoline Synthetic.

I use to be a Mobil 1 guy from way back in the 70's - even in the lawn mower. Mobil 1 was a far superior oil back then. But in the 80's when Castrol started offering a Synthetic, they changed the entire oil market.

Up to then, there was no legal criteria to meet "synthetic" standards. And your Synthetic oil is still Dino-Juice. It's just way better refined. Mobil 1 and a handfull of others were Group IV PAOI. Which is just a level of refinement. Castrol started marketing their oil as a Syn but it was only Group III PAOI - slightly less refined. The others sued Castrol because it wasn't "synthetic enough."

Eventually Castrol won because "Synthetic" is just a marketing term used for higher levels of refined oil but there was no industry standard benchmark. So the industry adopted Group III PAOI as their benchmark for Synthetic and Mobil 1 and the rest started making a less refined product.

But - Competition now required them to differentiate their products from each other so they started adding in different stuff like surfactants and dispersants and Zinc and Molybdenum and other things like that. Turns out the difference to oil performance between Group III and Group IV PAOI was negligible and the additive packages made a bigger difference.

The net net was we came out of the 80's with MUCH improved oil, but Castrol has always left a funk in my mouth because they got us there by playing dirty pool in how they marketed their product to customers.

So over the years I've run:
Mobil 1
Castrol
Penzoil
Amsoil
Valvoline

All synthetic...
I've also tried a handful of oil additives like Lucas and some stuff with PTFE in it. Basically all of the additives turned out to be snake oil. Nothing I'll be using again.

I've settled on Valvoline for now. I like it.
I add in about a cup of Automatic Trans Fluid when my oild change hits 4500 miles and then on the way to the oil change I'll add a little Seafoam to the oil as it's heating up. The idea is tha the detergent in the ATF (plain old red stuff) cleans out the engine and the Seafoam thins the oil a little to flush out the crevices. Maybe it's a bad idea and I'm certainly open to hearing reasons I should / not continue doing it.

Don't laugh but I will be using Super Tech full synthetic with the Motorcraft oil filter every 7,500 miles.

 

[GTGallop]

Don't laugh but I will be using Super Tech full synthetic with the Motorcraft oil filter every 7,500 miles.

Why would I laugh at that? Virtually all of the Syn's out there today far exceed the need our engines place on them. Run what makes you happy!

 

[Nolan Johnson]

What about the Valvoline Modern Engine Oil? Anyone running that? Seems like a perfect fit for the ranger as it is made for GDI/turbo engines. I'm in no way an oil expert so would like to know what everyone else thinks.

https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/modern-engine-full-synthetic-motor-oil

 

[HenryMac]

What about the Valvoline Modern Engine Oil? Anyone running that? Seems like a perfect fit for the ranger as it is made for GDI/turbo engines. I'm in no way an oil expert so would like to know what everyone else thinks.

https://www.valvoline.com/our-products/motor-oil/modern-engine-full-synthetic-motor-oil

It's a SN Plus Motor Oil. That means it's a good choice. But without test data results there really is no way to know if it is better than any other SN Plus motor oil.

If you knew :

• Calcium ppm,
• Sodium ppm,
• Viscosity @ 100 C (ASTM D445),
• Cold Cranking Viscosity (ASTM 5293),
• Volatility mass % loss, 1 hr, @ 250ºC (ASTM D5800), and
• Phosphorus ppm

then you could actually compare Valvoline with it's competitors. Until then... ?

These manufacturer's are tight lipped about test data. Some sites such as THE PETROLEUM QUALITY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA publishes test data... but their site doesn't list data for this oil.

 

[Rp930]

I like Valvoline. I might look into it. Thanks.

 

[VAMike]

I add in about a cup of Automatic Trans Fluid when my oild change hits 4500 miles and then on the way to the oil change I'll add a little Seafoam to the oil as it's heating up. The idea is tha the detergent in the ATF (plain old red stuff) cleans out the engine and the Seafoam thins the oil a little to flush out the crevices. Maybe it's a bad idea and I'm certainly open to hearing reasons I should / not continue doing it.

 

[Rp930]

No reason to do it. No reason to risk it.

 

[HenryMac]

I add in about a cup of Automatic Trans Fluid when my oild change hits 4500 miles and then on the way to the oil change I'll add a little Seafoam to the oil as it's heating up. The idea is tha the detergent in the ATF (plain old red stuff) cleans out the engine and the Seafoam thins the oil a little to flush out the crevices. Maybe it's a bad idea and I'm certainly open to hearing reasons I should / not continue doing it.

You must be an older guy... or have been hanging with older guys. This is the stuff my Grandpa used to do with his Model T Fords and other old antique cars. On those cars, that didn't have oil filters or PCV systems or the types of piston rings in use today, there are some good reasons to use those methods...

That's not the case with your new Ranger.

The biggest reason you should not continue is located on Page 259 of your owners manual.

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