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EGR DPFE Sensor Assembly Replacement Write-Up (LB5Z-9J433-B)

ChiefQM

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I like that answer. The clamps around the hoses that connect to the EGR are reusable? Thanks in advance...Jim
They are if you don't mess them up when you remove the hoses from the sensor. I just used small band clamps.
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RangerBill

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They are if you don't mess them up when you remove the hoses from the sensor. I just used small band clamps.
The clamps to the sensor are not reusable but must be cut off the hoses.
 

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You can buy the whole sensor “assembly” with new hoses already attached…much easier…highly recommended.
 

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Question for those who have replaced there's. I got one from RockAuto without the hose's. So is there enough wiggle room by taking the sensor off to make cutting or removing the factory clamp's easier. Not sure when I will get around to changing it. Thanks in advance.
 

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Question for those who have replaced there's. I got one from RockAuto without the hose's. So is there enough wiggle room by taking the sensor off to make cutting or removing the factory clamp's easier. Not sure when I will get around to changing it. Thanks in advance.
I removed the hose with the sensor as a unit, then used a small flat blade screwdriver wedged into the raised slot to pop the old clamp off the hose.

Took just a minute of two. No need to cut them off.

Be sure to note which hose goes where and that the dots on the hose face forward (the same direction as the side if the sensor with the writing scratched off).

Be sure to align your new clamps to make installation and removal easy next time around.
 


ChiefQM

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Question for those who have replaced there's. I got one from RockAuto without the hose's. So is there enough wiggle room by taking the sensor off to make cutting or removing the factory clamp's easier. Not sure when I will get around to changing it. Thanks in advance.
What I did after I changed the second one was to fashion a cannula out of a tube and duct tape and attach it to my shop vac hose. I put the cannula inside the hoses that lead down to the exhaust and sucked out any remaining moisture. My vehicle was driven in high humidity environments the entire five years I had it, it can't hurt.
 

Redwinemaker

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I’m the original owner of a 2019 XLT FX4 with 65,000 miles. It’s bone stock except for an MBRP exhaust. It’s never had a ‘tune’; I don’t tow with it and a lot of the mileage is highway. At @ 60,000 miles, it started to exhibit issues I thought were transmission-only related: Shifts were hard/‘clunky’, with ‘bucking’ especially in the higher gears (7-10); it also tried to shift at relatively slow speeds, in "Drive" & would then ‘hunt’ back & forth continuously. I’d eventually lock those gears out, or shift ‘manually’ in Sport mode. Had some minor RPM surging when shifting into 4th, but never any slipping in any gear.

One other odd thing: A very slight hesitation when accelerating off-idle. (That should’ve been the clue…)

I’ve never had an OBD code for anything.

I did my own tranny drain/fill & filter change. The fluid was coffee-colored with some metal on the magnet; fortunately, at least, it did not smell ‘burned’. The filter was extremely dirty. I let it drip overnight and recovered almost 9 quarts of ATF.

I also ‘reprogrammed’ the throttle position sensor… of course, this didn’t solve anything.

Finally… I swapped out the DPFE sensor with an aftermarket assembly (EZROAD) through Amazon.

That
When I gave up on Ford solving my bucking problem at low speeds, my salvation came when I saw a post about replacing the EGR DPFE valve. Part number KA1A-5L200-A was in stock at my local dealer (not the selling dealer) for $18 and change. I bought a foot of fuel injection-strength hose and four hose clamps. I changed it myself, pretty much following the procedure listed here, except that I used the old mounting bracket. Total cost about $28. This was 13 months ago and the truck has run perfect ever since.
Yeah, same here, it boggles my mind how the Dealer could not diagnose this properly, I did it with a $30 code reader and ordered the part. Maybe they should get on these blogs?
 

gannbino2001

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Thanks for this write-up! I did this about 2 years ago but had forgotten that they key is to remove the top tube first. Also, I bought an angled spring clip tool which helped tremendously! Why in the world this sensor goes bad this frequently is beyond me to understand. Our '21 Explorer Limited with essentially the same power train has never had this issue and we have 50k miles on it.
What type and where did you get your angled spring clip tool? I need this before changing mine. Thanks for the help.
 

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I grabbed one off of Amazon.
You might regret getting it off there.The parts that are sold on Amazon are counterfeit a lot of the time. Google search problems with car parts bought off Amazon. Electronic parts that aren't up to spec.can lead you down a rabbit hole later .
 

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You might regret getting it off there.The parts that are sold on Amazon are counterfeit a lot of the time. Google search problems with car parts bought off Amazon. Electronic parts that aren't up to spec.can lead you down a rabbit hole later .
I think he was referring to the tool not the sensor.
 

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Nick, it is visible under the larger hose, just to the left (in the photo) of the brake booster. Single nut over the bolt, rectangular body, connector with the lock piece behind it, and the two hoses under it.

IMG_2043a.webp
Is there @ny sort of code reset or is it pretty much just plug and play reset?
 

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What was the code you had?
and
What was the DPFE sensor reading (Live Data)?

or was this a blindly changed shot gunned part?

Generally, the associated codes for the DPFE - P139A - P139B - P139C and P0401 - P0402 will clear on their own after 3 drive cycles with EGR events - (light will go out) and 40 warm up cycles to fully clear from history.

I am about 90% complete on my EGR System operation guide - so posting soon.
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