Anyone running +35 offset wheels with 285s? 275s?

[Superdannyboy]

Superdannyboy, curious to why you where thinking of running the +35 offset wheels? I know the Baja kits says run a 4.75 backspacing but has any actually tried to put a high offset rim on with the Baja kits.

To me, I think the +35 offset should work. You have a longer lower control arm and longer upper arm. The uca and spindle are being pushed out the same, along with the brakes, rotors and all that. it’s not like the uca is protruding further than the spindle, or designed differently.
Have you tried mounting your stock wheels to the front to see if there is any clearance issues?

I’m running a 17x8.5 wheel +35 offset with 255/80/17. I get that the 285 is 30mm wider or a little more than half an inch either side but I think if I had the Baja kits LT kit the wheels and tires should still clear everything.

Sorry to hijack the thread with my Baja inspired dreams when most people here want to keep crash bars lol.

I would like to run 39's or 40's but the wheel would need to get pushed forward more so 37's are the sweet spot but I won't really know.unless I throw some different sizes on there and cycle it.

My concern is when I turn my wheel from lock to lock. At full lock with 0 offset and 33's it looks like I could only clear 35's without cutting off the pinch welds and a little bit of the fiberglass at the bottom. For 37's I need to cut the pinch welds and the glass and I was hoping that a more positive offset wouldn't swing my wheel out as far at full lock in order to not have to cut anything.

I haven't tried mounting my stock wheels. I think the concern is at full droop that the upper control arm doesn't hit the wheel.

I'll be designing and fabricating my own control arms and possible spindle so I do need to learn this and I'm curious.

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[gryder]

I'm running the same size tire on factory wheels, 2" lift.

Did the offset change put you into the crashbars? Just curious, I'd like to push the wheels out a bit, but also want to keep the bars.

Hey D Fresh, i installed the front BDS crash bars before I got the tires put on just to be safe. I think the tires still might clear with the factory crash bars installed. I only added the front and left the rear stock. I unbolted the rear and pushed them back. Here are some pics.

Rear full lock

front full lock.

It’s hard to tell but there is more room then what the picture shows. I also kept the little plastic front splash guards or whatever they’re called. Took the truck on some trails, no issues yet.

 

[gryder]

Sorry to hijack the thread with my Baja inspired dreams when most people here want to keep crash bars lol.

I would like to run 39's or 40's but the wheel would need to get pushed forward more so 37's are the sweet spot but I won't really know.unless I throw some different sizes on there and cycle it.

My concern is when I turn my wheel from lock to lock. At full lock with 0 offset and 33's it looks like I could only clear 35's without cutting off the pinch welds and a little bit of the fiberglass at the bottom. For 37's I need to cut the pinch welds and the glass and I was hoping that a more positive offset wouldn't swing my wheel out as far at full lock in order to not have to cut anything.

I haven't tried mounting my stock wheels. I think the concern is at full droop that the upper control arm doesn't hit the wheel.

I'll be designing and fabricating my own control arms and possible spindle so I do need to learn this and I'm curious.

Hey superdannyboy, I see what your trying to accomplish. With bigger tires no matter what offset you run, the factory frame and wheel housing are going to be your biggest challenges. You already have the larger fender flares to accommodate larger tires but like you said, you’ll have to worry about the frame at full turn in, left and right and the glass itself.

Also, the aftermarket controls arms your running are limited to the factory spindle. A new design of both would be really cool to see and allow both more droop and clearance from the wheel hitting the uca.

mounting your stock wheels will give you a better picture of how much offset you can run, + or -. You already have 0. +55 is probable way to high but then you can start gauging what you might be able to run. Maybe a 35 or 25 offset might work.

 

[D Fresh]

Hey D Fresh, i installed the front BDS crash bars before I got the tires put on just to be safe. I think the tires still might clear with the factory crash bars installed. I only added the front and left the rear stock. I unbolted the rear and pushed them back. Here are some pics.

Rear full lock

front full lock.

It’s hard to tell but there is more room then what the picture shows. I also keep the little plastic front splash guards or whatever there called. Took the truck on some trails, no issues yet.

Looks tight, but if the splash guards (spats?) aren't rubbing, the factory bars might clear.

Are those the AlphaEquipt?

Have you got any shots from the front to show how they fill the fenders?

 

[gryder]

Yes they are Alphaequipt.

 

[gwhalin]

I am running 285/70/17 on 8.5” and +35 wheels (Method 705s). I have no level (stock Tremor so their is a bit of a lift) but I did replace both the front and rear crash bars with ReadyLift bars (left the plastic waffle). No rubbing issues with my setup though I have only done a small amount of off-road driving with these so far.

 

[Utah_Bound]

I am trying to decide between a +35 and a +20. Both are 17x8. My tire choice is a 33x10.5R17. I will be using the ReadyLift bars with a OME standard lift. Any input would be helpful for an ideal fitment. I've used the tire size calculator and the backspace calculator to get an idea of where it will sit, but I still can't imagine it in my head. I don't want too much poke, but I am ok with some, if that makes sense. Thanks!

 

[NvrFinished]

I am trying to decide between a +35 and a +20. Both are 17x8. My tire choice is a 33x10.5R17. I will be using the ReadyLift bars with a OME standard lift. Any input would be helpful for an ideal fitment. I've used the tire size calculator and the backspace calculator to get an idea of where it will sit, but I still can't imagine it in my head. I don't want too much poke, but I am ok with some, if that makes sense. Thanks!

This thread here has that same size tire with +18 offset wheels.

 

[Utah_Bound]

This thread here has that same size tire with +18 offset wheels.

I saw that thread but unfortunately they are running a 17x8.5 wheel, The half inch isn't much but changes back spacing.

 

[Toytec]

I saw that thread but unfortunately they are running a 17x8.5 wheel, The half inch isn't much but changes back spacing.

Here's what +30 looks like on a 17x8 32"x10.5

 

[Mighty Little Blue]

Fitment issues? Will they clear the crash bars?

I have Method 316 wheels 18 x 9 5.75 backspacing or +19mm offset with KO2 285/65/18 tires using BDS front and rear crash bars, Fox 2.5 Coilovers set to approx 2.5 lift no rubbing. Only issue was the remote reservoir for the shock rubbing on the drivers side because the lower radiator hose would not let me move it over far enough. Adjusted the shape of the mounting bracket to get it to fit.

 

[IcemanSTX]

Here's what +30 looks like on a 17x8 32"x10.5

Looks great!

 

[IcemanSTX]

I have Method 316 wheels 18 x 9 5.75 backspacing or +19mm offset with KO2 285/65/18 tires using BDS front and rear crash bars, Fox 2.5 Coilovers set to approx 2.5 lift no rubbing. Only issue was the remote reservoir for the shock rubbing on the drivers side because the lower radiator hose would not let me move it over far enough. Adjusted the shape of the mounting bracket to get it to fit.

Looking good!

 

[Arsenal741]

Something that seems to be missing in most of these discussions is that worst case for rubbing would likely be full shock compression with high steering angle input. The closer a rim is to the +55mm stock offset, the less likelyhood of rubbing, regardless of level kit or lift, as the lower positive offset (and potential negative offset) pushes the wheel further away from the kingpin axis, meaning the wheel sweeps a larger arch with steering input.

 

[Bobber]

Does anyone know if you can fit 285/60r18 on stock wheels (OEM 265/60r18) without mods?

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