2019 Ford Ranger Lariat - New Battery Experience

[Trash Panda]

The recent ice/cold in North Alabama finally took its toll on my battery and I ended up replacing it tonight at the dealership.

Monday morning when I sat in my truck I noticed my nav screen displaying a "System Off to Save Battery, Please turn ignition off or start engine" message. I have never experienced this message before so I figured a battery replacement might be due soon. I continued to receive this message every time I sat in the truck and leaving work this afternoon the automatic lock on my passenger door did not unlock when I tried to open the door...

Took it right to the dealership and the techs and I tested my battery/alternator. Instantly their battery tester lit up red and displayed the battery bad message. The OEM lariat battery is rated for 800CCA and the tester registered close to 500CCA so that confirmed my suspicion. Testing the alternator we registered a 14.98 - 15.00 V on the terminals and we concluded this was rather high. The technician mentioned maybe I have a bad alternator, but I had another hypothesis. My hypothesis is that our battery management system was overcompensating for the bad battery and that was the likely cause of the high voltage reading. For now my hypothesis looks to be correct; after replacement it registered a nominal 14.30V reading.

My Ranger is a 06/19 build date so I think almost 5 years out of the OEM AGM battery is nothing to scoff at...We replaced it with a Motorcraft BAGM94RH7800 AGM battery with a 36mo warranty.

Lessons Learned:

1. Ensure the technician actually plugs up the front connector (grey) back to the positive terminal box or else you will get a power steering dash light ?
2. Ensure the technician remembers to reset your automatic windows or else you will be stuck back in the dark ages where you have to hold the button for it to roll up or down all the way (Going back to the dealership tomorrow to get them to reset that free of charge)
3. Pay attention to any weird warning messages, it prevented me from being dead in the water this go around. ?

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[Trash Panda]

EDIT: Resetting your automatic window is actually easy..

Hold the button all the way down until your window is all the way down for a few seconds, release, hold button down again for several seconds and release.
Hold the button all the way up until your window is all the way up for a few seconds, release, hold button up again for several seconds and release.

Auto driver's side window should function properly again.

 

[SpB]

I took my 2019 XLT into the dealer for an oil change yesterday and they advised that the battery failed the testing. This'll be the third battery for this truck with 29,500 miles (the dealer's service advisor said that perhaps I don't drive it often enough to keep it charged up adequately).

I'd like to save $100 and get a battery from Costco and replace it myself. I just want to confirm that once the new battery is installed that the only systems that will need to be "reset" are the BMS and the windows as described above...?

I don't have any scanning devices to reset anything, so I plan to do the BMS reset via the headlight/brake pedal technique, and I'll do the windows as described above.

Am I missing anything else that might need to be done?

Thanks for any helpful responses.

 

[Bsthroop]

I took my 2019 XLT into the dealer for an oil change yesterday and they advised that the battery failed the testing. This'll be the third battery for this truck with 29,500 miles (the dealer's service advisor said that perhaps I don't drive it often enough to keep it charged up adequately).

I'd like to save $100 and get a battery from Costco and replace it myself. I just want to confirm that once the new battery is installed that the only systems that will need to be "reset" are the BMS and the windows as described above...?

I don't have any scanning devices to reset anything, so I plan to do the BMS reset via the headlight/brake pedal technique, and I'll do the windows as described above.

Am I missing anything else that might need to be done?

Thanks for any helpful responses.

Yes those should be the only resets needed

 

[Ext1809]

The recent ice/cold in North Alabama finally took its toll on my battery and I ended up replacing it tonight at the dealership.

Monday morning when I sat in my truck I noticed my nav screen displaying a "System Off to Save Battery, Please turn ignition off or start engine" message. I have never experienced this message before so I figured a battery replacement might be due soon. I continued to receive this message every time I sat in the truck and leaving work this afternoon the automatic lock on my passenger door did not unlock when I tried to open the door...

Took it right to the dealership and the techs and I tested my battery/alternator. Instantly their battery tester lit up red and displayed the battery bad message. The OEM lariat battery is rated for 800CCA and the tester registered close to 500CCA so that confirmed my suspicion. Testing the alternator we registered a 14.98 - 15.00 V on the terminals and we concluded this was rather high. The technician mentioned maybe I have a bad alternator, but I had another hypothesis. My hypothesis is that our battery management system was overcompensating for the bad battery and that was the likely cause of the high voltage reading. For now my hypothesis looks to be correct; after replacement it registered a nominal 14.30V reading.

My Ranger is a 06/19 build date so I think almost 5 years out of the OEM AGM battery is nothing to scoff at...We replaced it with a Motorcraft BAGM94RH7800 AGM battery with a 36mo warranty.

Lessons Learned:

1. Ensure the technician actually plugs up the front connector (grey) back to the positive terminal box or else you will get a power steering dash light ?
2. Ensure the technician remembers to reset your automatic windows or else you will be stuck back in the dark ages where you have to hold the button for it to roll up or down all the way (Going back to the dealership tomorrow to get them to reset that free of charge)
3. Pay attention to any weird warning messages, it prevented me from being dead in the water this go around. ?

My battery ended up having a dead cell and my altenator was over compensating as well. I changed out my battery and my altenator works within range now. I just need to reset my driver door locks and I will be good.

 

[alcohenusa]

I took my 2019 XLT into the dealer for an oil change yesterday and they advised that the battery failed the testing. This'll be the third battery for this truck with 29,500 miles (the dealer's service advisor said that perhaps I don't drive it often enough to keep it charged up adequately).

I'd like to save $100 and get a battery from Costco and replace it myself. I just want to confirm that once the new battery is installed that the only systems that will need to be "reset" are the BMS and the windows as described above...?

I don't have any scanning devices to reset anything, so I plan to do the BMS reset via the headlight/brake pedal technique, and I'll do the windows as described above.

Am I missing anything else that might need to be done?

Thanks for any helpful responses.

Be aware that Costco changed their warranty last year. It’s no longer free replacement during the warranty period. Pro-rated only beginning day one. I got one from Walmart last month with a 4 year free replacement.

 

[Trash Panda]

My battery ended up having a dead cell and my altenator was over compensating as well. I changed out my battery and my altenator works within range now. I just need to reset my driver door locks and I will be good.

Good to know someone else had the same symptom.

When they started throwing around the new alternator word I was like hold up guys, let’s not get ahead of ourselves. ?

 

[Ranger Lariat]

The technician mentioned maybe I have a bad alternator, but I had another hypothesis. My hypothesis is that our battery management system was overcompensating for the bad battery and that was the likely cause of the high voltage reading. For now my hypothesis looks to be correct; after replacement it registered a nominal 14.30V reading.

Lessons Learned:

1. Ensure the technician actually plugs up the front connector (grey) back to the positive terminal box or else you will get a power steering dash light ?
2. Ensure the technician remembers to reset your automatic windows or else you will be stuck back in the dark ages where you have to hold the button for it to roll up or down all the way (Going back to the dealership tomorrow to get them to reset that free of charge)
3. Pay attention to any weird warning messages, it prevented me from being dead in the water this go around. ?

Don't you just love it when you / we / me know more then "certified" technicians? And I'm not just talking this issue or even Ford. I've been "smarter" than trained(?) professionals (automotive / factory dealer) more times that I want to even count on Toyota, Mazda, Honda, Isuzu... the brands I own / have owned.

"maybe you have a bad alternator, because my test gear tells me so, and I blindly follow what it says, so.... we should replace your alternator $$$$$$$$$$$"

 

[TomSim]

I took my 2019 XLT into the dealer for an oil change yesterday and they advised that the battery failed the testing. This'll be the third battery for this truck with 29,500 miles (the dealer's service advisor said that perhaps I don't drive it often enough to keep it charged up adequately).

I'd like to save $100 and get a battery from Costco and replace it myself. I just want to confirm that once the new battery is installed that the only systems that will need to be "reset" are the BMS and the windows as described above...?

I don't have any scanning devices to reset anything, so I plan to do the BMS reset via the headlight/brake pedal technique, and I'll do the windows as described above.

Am I missing anything else that might need to be done?

Thanks for any helpful responses.

hm, sounds to me like the dealer has been ripping you off for a number of years, my 2019 does short trips in Ontario and i'm still using the original battery

 

[TomSim]

Don't you just love it when you / we / me know more then "certified" technicians? And I'm not just talking this issue or even Ford. I've been "smarter" than trained(?) professionals (automotive / factory dealer) more times that I want to even count on Toyota, Mazda, Honda, Isuzu... the brands I own / have owned.

"maybe you have a bad alternator, because my test gear tells me so, and I blindly follow what it says, so.... we should replace your alternator $$$$$$$$$$$"

plugs up the the front connector??what does that mean???

 

[Ext1809]

Good to know someone else had the same symptom.

When they started throwing around the new alternator word I was like hold up guys, let’s not get ahead of ourselves. ?

As I am hearing a new term…. “the parts cannon”. That’s great if you are the dealership but I am not as fortunate as they are.

 

[Trash Panda]

Don't you just love it when you / we / me know more then "certified" technicians? And I'm not just talking this issue or even Ford. I've been "smarter" than trained(?) professionals (automotive / factory dealer) more times that I want to even count on Toyota, Mazda, Honda, Isuzu... the brands I own / have owned.

"maybe you have a bad alternator, because my test gear tells me so, and I blindly follow what it says, so.... we should replace your alternator $$$$$$$$$$$"

I am a Quality Engineer in the electronics industry so I always look at electrical issues with an open eye. At least let’s test it before jumping to any conclusions.

That is something I would have engineered into our BMS system, if the battery is starting to go bad or a cell is bad have the alternator compensate for it to prevent you from being stranded on the side of the road. Who cares if it’s overcharging the battery, the battery is dead anyways. If that is indeed how our system works then Ford Engineers were looking out for us in this case. ?

 

[Trash Panda]

plugs up the the front connector??what does that mean???

This connector, did not know the correct term. ?

 

[SpB]

hm, sounds to me like the dealer has been ripping you off for a number of years, my 2019 does short trips in Ontario and i'm still using the original battery

I wouldn't say that they're ripping me off - they replaced the original battery under warranty at no cost, and now they say this second battery is failing, but it's been over two years since they've installed it, so it is not covered under any warranty...

I'm no fan of dealers and their service departments - I'd much rather go to a local shop, but this particular dealer has not been horrible to work with... And I figure while it is still under the 5-year warranty I'll go to them for any issues that might come up.

 

[5thranger]

The recent ice/cold in North Alabama finally took its toll on my battery and I ended up replacing it tonight at the dealership.

Monday morning when I sat in my truck I noticed my nav screen displaying a "System Off to Save Battery, Please turn ignition off or start engine" message. I have never experienced this message before so I figured a battery replacement might be due soon. I continued to receive this message every time I sat in the truck and leaving work this afternoon the automatic lock on my passenger door did not unlock when I tried to open the door...

Took it right to the dealership and the techs and I tested my battery/alternator. Instantly their battery tester lit up red and displayed the battery bad message. The OEM lariat battery is rated for 800CCA and the tester registered close to 500CCA so that confirmed my suspicion. Testing the alternator we registered a 14.98 - 15.00 V on the terminals and we concluded this was rather high. The technician mentioned maybe I have a bad alternator, but I had another hypothesis. My hypothesis is that our battery management system was overcompensating for the bad battery and that was the likely cause of the high voltage reading. For now my hypothesis looks to be correct; after replacement it registered a nominal 14.30V reading.

My Ranger is a 06/19 build date so I think almost 5 years out of the OEM AGM battery is nothing to scoff at...We replaced it with a Motorcraft BAGM94RH7800 AGM battery with a 36mo warranty.

Lessons Learned:

1. Ensure the technician actually plugs up the front connector (grey) back to the positive terminal box or else you will get a power steering dash light ?
2. Ensure the technician remembers to reset your automatic windows or else you will be stuck back in the dark ages where you have to hold the button for it to roll up or down all the way (Going back to the dealership tomorrow to get them to reset that free of charge)
3. Pay attention to any weird warning messages, it prevented me from being dead in the water this go around. ?

My hypothesis is that you are more mechanically inclined than the dealership technician.

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