Aftermarket Headlights - Wiring & Issues (Group Help)

[Big Blue]

I also watched the (Headlight Revolution) video
The Start-Up Sequence is this:
DRL - Lit Bright
Headlight Trigger -(Turn ON)- (OB to IB) in 3 phases in Dim
Headlights Pulse - (IB to OB) in 3-Phases to Bright
Headlights Pulse - (OB to IB) in 3 -Phases to Dim
Headlight Trigger -(IB to OB) in 3-Phases to Off

So be it (HIDDEN) or (BLOCKED) when the Headlights are commanded on by BCM we need to find a alternate solution to getting the (DRL-Bright) to activate the Start-Up sequence before the BCM takes control.
This is my reasoning of moving when the (DRL-Power) comes in as a possible solution to the issue.
This theory can only be tested by (adding) a relay into the circuit and letting Park Lamp Power do it.
So YES, the DRL input - must be powered to begin (start) the sequence, if we let the (Park Lamp) input be the trigger it just (MAY) start the sequence up and the end result will (END) with the headlight's on in (DARK)
as for your testing this far has been using (Park Lamps) gets the (Start-Up) sequence to work, but if you go to (Headlamp) position or (Auto) position in the dark, the BCM has already powered the Headlights.

By using the (Park Lamps) Powering as the trigger, may let the (Start-Up) sequence happen before the BCM can take control and turn on the lights.
It is a BATTLE of which RELAY wins the RACE to power the headlight.
Bug's Bunny (The BCM) is winning the race, and we need to slow him down and introduce the (Tortoise) short cut in powering the lights first.

Again, this is all THEORY BASED, but if I had these lights, I would try everything possible to fix the issue, being that this issue is discovered (AFTER) the Time-Consuming install of them.
With Morimoto NOT PROVIDING support for this issue it takes some deep thought on how to fix the issue that they are ignoring and just say (send us the Headlights) for replacement.
I am a Troubleshooter by Trade and this issue can be fixed I believe it's just going to take some time to find the correct way to cure it (By Trial & Error)

You have provided me with some valuable info, and I am looking at this issue from a (power supply) aspect as it is looking like the (As-Built) BCM changes will not provide the power I am looking to have and when it comes in.
I am looking at (alternatives) to changing when & how that power is applied from the actual wiring harness as a possible solution.
Will it make any difference? IDK, but it would be worth a try, no harm to the lights just a small investment in a (relay) and (some wire) and about 30-Minutes to wire it up and mount the relay.

But with Relay (In-Hand) before I would actually Wire-Tap wire #5, I would Back-Probe) the connector first and tap power from that, then proceed with testing to outcome on (Back-Probing) both sides Left & Right to see if there is any time delay (In that circuit) which side will provide the result I want (if it matters) the best.
If successful then do the actual Wire Tap of Pin #5

OK, my testing was done with the parking lights as only one criteria. I tested the lights with the only power to them being the tapped power. The headlight unplugged from the truck harness plug. The fuse tap was the touched to the positive battery post. Got the startup sequence and bright DRL bars. Got same results with harness replugged and headlight switch in off position parking lights were timed out from opening door. If the door was opened to activate the parking lights, the DRL bars dimmed until they timed out and then brightened. This is why I believe the only affect of having power to the parking pin is to put the DRL bars in the dim mode by powering them by the parking lead instead of the tapped power. This is because they come on dim without the tapped power connected, as do the turn signals with sequential working if the jumper is connected.

Sponsored

 

[airline tech]

OK, if I read you right you are letting the parking lights control a always on power source. Am I correct?

If so, you are going to get a startup sequence anytime the parking lights activate. This will be when you lock/unlock the doors or open any door, just turn on the parking lights on. This thing likes to turn the parking lights on for everything. Not the way I want my headlights to work! I don't want to have to have to add any components and do any extra wiring to make this work, a simple Forscan changes maybe.

As I said before, I really don't have a problem with how they work now, except for the startup issues in dark mode. The DRLs being dim during the day is not and issue to me. It was my choice because I wanted the taillights on with the DRLs.

Yes, this is the way I see it - If we use the (Park Lamp) circuit the same way as it is (Fuse Tapped)

Now- When the (Run/Start) Relay closes - It Powers (Fuse #19) - when Fuse #19 is powered you have power feeding the lights.
When the truck is shut off the (Run/Start) relay opens thus dropping power from Fuse #19

Purposed Movement - The BCM is a (Always) Hot circuit that uses (Headlight) switch position to provide a (Ground) for each switch position.
So constant power feed to the switch (for each switch position - separate circuits)
when the switch position changes (a ground) is provided for the current path, and this closes the (Internal) BCM Relay to allow (Fused) power out to the lights. (Internally this is Pin #87) if we were to view this as a physical relay
So, the BCM (Itself) is a Lighting Relay for each circuit, when the power from the Headlamp Switch has a (Ground) - Each Circuit - this completes the power path and closes the (Relay)-- Power Feed is now allowed (Output) to each light circuit
Note the circuits (Outputs) are on 2 Separate Fuses and is divided up by (Side) Left & Right

So internally the BCM has the ability to (power) the Park Lamp Circuit regardless of switch position for the (Feedback) power pulse, if the switch is not in Headlight or Park position when that BCM power supplied pulse ends - power is removed from the circuit.

There are other factors that can (Trigger) a Power Pulse on the (Park-lamp) circuit and they are (Remote Start) - This can be changed with Forscan (To turn that -OFF)
Park-Lights commanded on (during a remote start)
The other is (Door Ajar & Door Locking Feedback) - The Park Lights momentarily trigger on and flash (This can also be (Turned Off)
And I believe the (Alarm) will trigger the Park-Lights to Flash I do not recall if Park Lamps are included with the Headlights for the (Alarm Trigger)

So yes, with my possible solution anytime the (Park-Lights) are triggered ON by any source or input - The Start-Up Sequence in theory will Trigger, but the unknown is will it complete or will it just start & end the process, as any of the other inputs will be a brief (On) and then (Off) trigger.
Vs
When the Headlights are (ON) Parking Lights are also (ON) so a permanent power source vs the momentary power source of the (Door Lock / Ajar) feedback.
This would be the same if you take the (Tapped Power) touch it to the battery and the sequence starts and then you pull that power off of the battery in (MID) sequence or at the beginning of the sequence (start)
How far will it get - in that sequence? IDK, possibly you would not even see it except for the Park Light as it would be brief. I am just noting that the added relay will close, and power will be applied to (Start-The Sequence)

Let's look at the Headlamp Switch
In (OFF) no power from the circuits can reach (Ground)
in (Auto) the BCM can supply automatically (each circuit) capability to reach Ground
Note the (Fuses) in the RH Corner, those fuses are on the (output) supply of the Headlamp Switch circuit. (Auto-Mode) is driven by the (Sun load) sensor inputs (Bottom Right)
So, in (AUTO) the BCM has control of the lighting circuit and what circuit has a ground all dependent on (Day / Night) and Can Data (Input) of Gear Position for DRL Control.

Then tie in the (Assessory) Relay that can shut-off power to the (Switch) The 10-Minute Relay when it sees (Engine-Off) and the lights are still on.

This is precisely the Point of Power input where the BCM is powering the Headlights (ON) before the (Run/Start) Relay closes and sends power out of Fuse #19.
In (Auto) the power is being supplied before that relay closes, thus (Hiding) or (Blocking) the start-up sequence from happening.
My theory is - to take that (Tapped) power and move it to when (Auto) position closes the relay here in this diagram the (Timing) will equal out as (Auto) not only provides the Ground Path for Headlights but also Park lights.

Note: There is NOT a dedicated DRL position in the Switch, this is all done behind the scenes from Can Bus (Data) and (Sun load Sensor) resistance feedback to the BCM and this only occurs with this switch in (Auto) unless you set it to Canada settings that will adjust the settings to occur in (All Switch Positions) except (Headlamp)
Its specifically this control (Gear Position) input to the BCM that changes and powers the DRL output to (ON) when the gear is moved out of park.
The problem is - I am looking for a way to get that (Power Output) for DRL to include Park and not create issues for all other modules that rely on that specific data transmission, such as (Rear Camera) needing to see (Reverse) before it switches the Video Feed (ON) as an example.
That input (Gear Position) for when its sending data - I am out of park - Enable the DRL circuit is what I am trying to locate a work around for - Let it enable, even in park.
As that is the PRESISE circuit that is triggering the Start-Up sequence.

So, I am thinking that is not an option I am going to find, I am taking a different route and switching the power (input) to trigger the (Start-Up) sequence instead and since the BCM is winning the race for power, why not try and see if we can use that (win) and tap into the source that is providing the initial power supply.
This way power is coming in at the same time

 

[airline tech]

OK, my testing was done with the parking lights as only one criteria. I tested the lights with the only power to them being the tapped power. The headlight unplugged from the truck harness plug. The fuse tap was the touched to the positive battery post. Got the startup sequence and bright DRL bars. Got same results with harness replugged and headlight switch in off position parking lights were timed out from opening door. If the door was opened to activate the parking lights, the DRL bars dimmed until they timed out and then brightened. This is why I believe the only affect of having power to the parking pin is to put the DRL bars in the dim mode by powering them by the parking lead instead of the tapped power. This is because they come on dim without the tapped power connected, as do the turn signals with sequential working if the jumper is connected.

Yes, this is what I am talking about- If we use that (Park Light) power to trigger a relay that will close when (Park Light) power is applied it's going to operate the exact same as (Current) wired, it's the same power being suppled but at a different time and that is the precise moment the Park Lights are powered.
It should operate the exact same as the (Fuse #19) tapped power source but will be timed differently as the Fuse #19 power is reaching the light (AFTER) the BCM has powered the Headlights & Park Lights.
By moving the Tapped Power to trigger (on) at the same time the BCM powers the Park lights is what I am trying to convey, will hopefully cure the issue and the only way to do that is add a relay into the circuit that instead of (Run/Start) relay delay in sending power out of Fuse #19 and the BCM already having power output on the circuit , let's move the Power Output to different location and that is going to be (utilizing) the BCM's power feed for the Park Lights instead.
A Better Timed - Output that should allow the Start-Up sequence to (Start) before the Headlights turn on.

 

[airline tech]

A better explanation:

Currently - You have Fuse #19 that is providing switched power (via the Run/Start) relay
Fuse #19 power relies on the (Run/Start) Relay to be closed before power becomes available.
During a Start-Event - you have multiple relays that are being cycled and the BCM power is also being cycled and the various Can-Bus data transmissions occurring.

The BCM - Internal control is faster (By Milliseconds) in getting power out to the Headlights and at the same time (Includes) Park Lights

If we take that (BCM) control of (Power Output) and (Wire Tap) the power from the Park Light circuit (This is Pin #5) power and use it for a (Input) source for a relay (shown below)
Then anytime power is applied to Pin #5 will create a current flow across the Relay Coil.
This being Pin #86 flowing to Ground Pin #85
You will have (Constant) Battery Tapped Power at Pin #30 awaiting a path to flow to ground.
When power is flowing (From Pin #86 to Pin #85) across the relay coil this creates a magnetic field - thus pulling the (Relay-Contact) point over and allowing power to flow from the battery.
Pin #30 to Pin #87 and out to the (DRL Harness) - This being the required signal (Power) input to command the (Start- Up) sequence

So, my theory is if we time the power input to be equal vs mismatched, will provide a better operation of the Start-Up Sequence.

Bear in mind that the DRL Power will only be applied when the Park Lamp circuit is powered.

In (Daylight) the Park Lamps will not be powered until (You come out of Park) and with (the Forscan Setting - Include Park Lights) as DRL's then the Park-Lights will trigger power on (as DRL's) this providing the necessary power to trigger the (Start-Up) sequence.
So, NOTE this is not going to occur just by starting the engine via KEY as it does currently.

In Remote Start - The Park-Lamp Circuit is Powered - So a normal Start-Up Sequence with the Transmision in (Park)

In (Night/Dark) - the Park Lights will be commanded on along with the Headlights, this is the choke point of the (Timing)
and hopefully by moving the (power input - relay controlled) via the Park Lights will cure the issue of the (Strat-Up) sequence.
So, when the Park Lights are triggered (ON) the (HOPEFULL) outcome will be that the Start-Up sequence will start and end its process before the Headlights are commanded on by the BCM. I truly suspect that this will happen.

The Drawbacks - As Mentioned Above:

The (Door Lock) Feedback is only on the (Turn-Signal) Circuit - So Pin #7

The (Door-Unlock) and (Door AJAR) feedback uses both the (Turn Signal) circuit - Momentary Flash (Seconds)
and the (Park Lamp) circuit
The Park Lamp circuit in this case includes the Puddle Lamps & Cargo Lamps
Anytime a (Door Unlock) request or a door is opened the Park-Lamp circuit Powers for 25- Seconds as long as the door is not held open - they will cycle (OFF)
I would have to check to be sure, but I think you could turn that (OFF) if you wanted to.
As the (Door Unlock) or (Door-AJAR) signal will be on long enough that the Start-Up sequence will trigger and complete. (Just as it does - in the Remote Start) scenario except the Park Lights will shut off (in 25-Seconds)

So yes, tapping at this point does bring in a drawback, but it will allow the Start-Up feature to hopefully function as it was marketed for (Hey, look at what these Headlights can do) Gimmick to get you to buy them.

I truly wish I had a (ALL YOU GOTTTA DO, IS) solution for this, but at this point, this is the only work around I see for it as being a POSSIBLE solution.
I hope I am conveying my approach to this resolution effectively in clear upstanding of what I suspect is causing the issue.
This issue is not just on the Ranger it's across all Makes and Models to some degree and it's all tied to the term (PLUG AND PLAY) which is not always the case in the real world when the Vehicle System control takes over, this being the BCM.

At least with a (FORD) and (FORSCAN) we have the ability to Re-Program the BCM functionality.
You have to give a huge amount of credit to FORD to allow it, as they could easily lock it up and the only way to access it would be by a (Licensed Ford Software) that would make doing any changes whatsoever very expensive.
I am truly amazed on how cheap (Forscan) is, yes it sucks for using it as a (Live Data) T-Shoot tool but as a Code Reader (Great) and as a (Programming - Through Port) its priceless
This software for its price is remarkable for what it can do.
So, I use Forscan solely for the (Programming) feature and my Scan Tools for T-Shooting
My only complaint with using Forscan is the short Teather of the OBD-Link EX and then the OBD-Link (MX) not playing nice in connecting to Forscan (I have found that if the Sync) Bluetooth is ON the OBD-Link (MX) does not like any other Bluetooth enabled receiver to be (ON) or it will not connect - I think because it is the closest proximity to the dongle.
But anyway - I got off track for this issue but related.

Hope this diagram helps in understanding of how to (Wire Tap) the power off of the park Lamp circuit as a (Relay) control for the (DRL-Output) feed.

 

[airline tech]

Basically, the bottom line is this - at this point for the Morimoto's and that Start-Up Sequence
It is programmed to (ONLY) trigger with a DRL (Input) pulse.
If that was (NOT) a requirement then you could simply (wire Tap) Pin #6 on the Harness and get it wired the same as (Factory LED's) are that have Pin #6 in the Headlight Side of the connection.
Make the (changes) in Forscan and you are good to go, and you have a (cheaper) option of LED assembly's vs the Factory LED's with an added special function of the (Sequential Turns)
Which I like (that function BTW)
But that (Requirement) for the Start-Up Sequence to function, it takes DRL Power (which is Pin#6) to Trigger it (Into Action)
Now if I can find a way - via BCM programming for that (Power on Pin #6) to come on (Other Than) (Day & Out of Park) then it would be a simple wiretap Pin #6 & Forscan change.

 

[Big Blue]

Yes, this is what I am talking about- If we use that (Park Light) power to trigger a relay that will close when (Park Light) power is applied it's going to operate the exact same as (Current) wired, it's the same power being suppled but at a different time and that is the precise moment the Park Lights are powered.
It should operate the exact same as the (Fuse #19) tapped power source but will be timed differently as the Fuse #19 power is reaching the light (AFTER) the BCM has powered the Headlights & Park Lights.
By moving the Tapped Power to trigger (on) at the same time the BCM powers the Park lights is what I am trying to convey, will hopefully cure the issue and the only way to do that is add a relay into the circuit that instead of (Run/Start) relay delay in sending power out of Fuse #19 and the BCM already having power output on the circuit , let's move the Power Output to different location and that is going to be (utilizing) the BCM's power feed for the Park Lights instead.
A Better Timed - Output that should allow the Start-Up sequence to (Start) before the Headlights turn on.

NO, this will not work the same as currently wired. It will trigger a headlight startup sequence any time you unlock the truck or open a door. Currently anytime you do these operations trigger the parking lights on for a timed period, not just a quick flash. It gives a quick flash of the amber turn signal and turns on the parking lights. Again when you stop the truck, you open the door to get out, it again triggers the parking lights for a timed period. You will be continuously triggering the startup sequence. That is why the parking lights do not trigger it now. They only adjust the brightness of the DRL bars.

The current setup works just fine. The only issue is an intermittent timing issue because of the gyrations the BCM Goes through when the truck is started with the headlight switch in Auto and it being dark out.

This has been an interesting troubleshooting discussion. It has kept my engineering mind busy for a while. But I have come to the conclusion that this is not something that is going to be solved without hacking up the trucks or the lights wiring, or compromising some other function of the truck. Something I am not prepared to do. I will check back once in a while and see if any progress has been made.

 

[airline tech]

NO, this will not work the same as currently wired. It will trigger a headlight startup sequence any time you unlock the truck or open a door. Currently anytime you do these operations trigger the parking lights on for a timed period, not just a quick flash. It gives a quick flash of the amber turn signal and turns on the parking lights. Again when you stop the truck, you open the door to get out, it again triggers the parking lights for a timed period. You will be continuously triggering the startup sequence. That is why the parking lights do not trigger it now. They only adjust the brightness of the DRL bars.

The current setup works just fine. The only issue is an intermittent timing issue because of the gyrations the BCM Goes through when the truck is started with the headlight switch in Auto and it being dark out.

This has been an interesting troubleshooting discussion. It has kept my engineering mind busy for a while. But I have come to the conclusion that this is not something that is going to be solved without hacking up the trucks or the lights wiring, or compromising some other function of the truck. Something I am not prepared to do. I will check back once in a while and see if any progress has been made.

Ok, I have a question:
With the Fuse Tap disconnected, you lose the Headlight DRL - Bright & Start-Up Sequence
Park Light - and ALL other functions work on the Headlight? CORRECT
With it disconnected do you still have (Park Lights-Dim or Bright) and Fog Lights as set for your DRL's? Do they still operate as DRL's? or is that function lost completely?

 

[Big Blue]

Ok, I have a question:

With the Fuse Tap disconnected, you lose the Headlight DRL - Bright & Start-Up Sequence
Park Light - and ALL other functions work on the Headlight? CORRECT

YES

With it disconnected do you still have (Park Lights-Dim or Bright) and Fog Lights as set for your DRL's? Do they still operate as DRL's? or is that function lost completely?

YES, parking lights and fogs are still on as part of DRLs. The DRLs are on dim. The only function that appears lost is the DRLs on bright without the Headlights or parking lights on. So by disconnecting the tapped power and making the Forscan change to include Parking Lights with DRLs and changing the DRLs to Fogs or possibly the 0 - Not Defined selection, the only thing you loose is the startup sequence and the DRLs bright while the shifter is in park. This may be a solution for @jdjeff as long as he doesn't care about having the DRLs on bright in the daytime and he could leave the IPC menu item for DRLs checked. I may just do this with mine as the only time mine are on bright now is between starting and taking it out of park.

 

[airline tech]

I am posting this for now but spent some time with the Truck & Forscan and have more to follow.

The settings required to swap from Halogens to LEDs (Factory) As-Builts
to match the Factory Settings.
Most of these settings can be found in the Easy Menus

DRL DTC Inhibit LF & RF DRL & Position Lights
726-24-01 - 0000-00C0-D0E2 (Halo)
726-24-01 - 0000-0000-D022 (LED) -xxxx-xx0x-xxxx
0=Normal - All (4) Lights
C=Inhibit (Inhibits only the DRL) Lights-Position Lights Normal

Frequency Select
726-26-02 - 0000-0002-0057 (Halo)
726-26-02 - 0000-0001-0056 (LED) xxxx-xxx1-xxxx
0-Type (0) LED - 1=Type 1 (LED) 2-Type 2 (Halo) 3= Type 3
Moves the DRL from Low Beam to (Dedicated DRL Circuit)
This automatically changes 726-50-01 to (108E) 10 = Dedicated DRL
When (Dedicated DRL) is selected it Powers Pin #6 at the Headlight assembly

VRMS Target Select Configure
726-29-01 - 0000-0000-0259 (Halo)
726-29-01 0000-0000-0158 (LED) xxxx-xxxx-x1xx
0= Type (0) LED - 1=Type 1 (LED) 2=Type 2 (Halo) 3= Type 3
This ties to 726-26-02 (Power Output) and they need to match
Note: This does not auto-change when the above 726-26-02 is changed

DRL Lamp Mask Configure
726-45-01 0A01-0200-0080 (Halo)
726-45-01 0A01-1000-008E (LED) xxxx-10xx-xxxx
01=DRL (Disable) -02=Low Beams - 04=Front Fogs - 08=Front Turns 10-Dedicated DRL 20=Hi Beams
40=Low Beams +Dedicated DRL 7F= (All of the above options)
This allows + additional DRL options (if desired) if none leave this as (10)

DRL Lamp Configure
726-50-01 0280 (Halo)
726-50-01 108E (LED) - 10xx
01=DRL Disabled 02=DRL Low Beams 04=DRL Front Fogs 08=DRL Front Turn Lamps 10=Dedicated DRL 20-DRL Hi Beams
40=DRL Low Beams +Dedicated DRL
This ties to (what is the main DRL Circuit and this also applies Power to (Pin#6) Dedicated DRL Circuit (10)

LF & RF DRL Circuit Configure
726-61-02 - 1600-0000-01A7 (Halo)
726-61-02 - 1601-0100-01A9 (LED) - xxx1-x1xx-xxxx
0=Not Used 1=Used
This setting changes between (Halo & LED) as the DRL has been moved

END OF REQUIRED SETTINGS

Extras: (Optional Additions) for Lighting Settings

FOGs on Turns
726-26-01 - 0100-0003-0058 - xxxx-x1xx-xxxx
0=Disable 1= Enable
This allows the FOG's to be cornering lights on turns

DRL Include Park Lamps
726-26-02 - 0000-0002-0057 - x1xx-xxxx-xxxx
0=Disabled 1=Enabled
This will allow (Side Marker & Taillamps & License Plate Lights) On with the DRL's

DRL (Switchback) w/Turn Signals
726-26-02 - 0000-0002-0057 - xxx1-xxxx-xxxx
0=Disabled 1=Enabled

Front Fog's with High Beams (Bambi Mode)
726-27-01 - 0100-0001-0057
0=Allow 1=Inhibit

DRL With Fog's
726-71-01 - 0064-0A00-000D - xxxx-xxxx-x0xx
0=Allow 1= Inhibit


Canada (Lighting Settings) - Noted Differences Between the US & Canada Version for DRL Lighting
As I was curious and also T-Shooting on how to get the DRL's on (Always) and what Ford did for
the Canada Law Change in Sept 2021.

Canada BCM Changes:

Feature Configure DRL by Auto Lamp Person 1-4
726-16-02 - 0202-0202-024F (Canada-LED) x2x2-x2x2-xxxx
726-16-02 - 0101-0101-014A (US Version)
0=Disabled - 1=Enabled - 2=Inoperative
This Disables the IPC (Selection) Input from the IPC Menu

Feature Configure DRL by Auto Lamps Vehicle
726-16-02 - 0202-0202-024F (Canada -LED) xxxx-xxxx-x2xx
726-16-02 - 0101-0101-014A (US Version)
0=Disabled - 1=Enabled - 2=Inoperative
This Disables the IPC (Selection) Input from the IPC Menu Note: When you DE-SELECT the DRL Lighting in the IPC Menu this changes to (1) from (0) Enable to Disable Canada (Removes) This Input and the Menu as well.

Feature List to BCM (DRL) by Auto Lamp Initial Value
726-21-01 - 1401-0001-0267 -(Canada-LED) -xxxx-xxxx-x2xx
726-21-01 - 1401-0001-0166 (US Version)
0-Disabled - 1=Enabled -2=Inoperative
This Disables the IPC (Selection) Input from the IPC Menu & This sets the (Default) value
for the above - (726-16-02)

DRL DTC Inhibit LF & RF DRL
726-24-01 - 0000-0000-D022 - (Canada -LED)- xxxx-xxCx-xxxx
726-24-01 - 0000-00C0-D0E2 - (US Version (Halo)
726-24-01 - 0000-0000-D022 - (US Version - LED)
0=Normal C=Inhibit
So, this stays the same if you have LEDs

DRL Include Park Lamps
726-26-02 - 0100-0001-0057 - (Canada -LED) - x1xx-xxxx-xxxx
726-26-02 - 0000-0002-0057 - (US Version (Halo)
726-26-02 - 0000-0002-0057 - (US Version (LED)
0=Disabled 1=Enabled
So, Canada (REQUIRES) this addition

VRMS Target Configure
726-29-01 - 0000-0000-0158 (Canada -LED) - xxxx-xxxx-x1xx
726-29-01 - 0000-0000-0259 (US Version - Halo)
726-29-01 - 0000-0000-0158 (US Version (LED)
0= Type (0) LED - 1=Type 1 (LED) 2=Type 2 (Halo) 3= Type 3
So, this stays the same if you have LEDs

DRL Options
726-45-01 - OA01-1000-008E (Canada -LED) - xxxx-10xx-xxxx
726-45-01 - 0A01-0200-0080 (US Version (Halo)
726-45-01 - 0A01-1000-008E (US Version LED)
So, this stays the same if you have LED's

DRL Lamp Configure
726-50-01 -108E (Canada -LED) - 10xx
726-50-01 -0200 (US Version (Halo)
726-50-01 -108E (US Version LED)
So, this stays the same if you have LEDs

DRL Lamp Circuit Configure
726-61-02 - 1601-0100-01A9 - (Canada -LED) - xxx1-x1xx-xxxx
726-61-02 - 1600-0000-01A7 - (US Version Halo)
726-61-02 - 1601-0100-01A9 - (US Version LED)
So, this stays the same if you have LED's

DRL W/Fog
726-71-01 - 0064-0A00-010E (Canada -LED) xxxx-xxxx-x1xx
726-71-01 - 0064-0A00-000D (US Version Halo)
726-71-01 - 0064-0A00-000D (US Version LED)
0-Allow 1=Inhibit
Canada is set to (Inhibit)

Canada IPC Changes:

DRL Screen (Option) DRL Lighting
720-02-01 - 4DA5-345D-1ECB -(Canada LED)- xxAx-xxxx-xxxx- DRL Screen / xxxx-xx5x-xxxx
720-02-01 - 4DE5-343D-1EEB - (US Version)
E=Enabled A=Disabled -and 3=USA 5=Canada (Country Code)
This disables the IPC Menu selection from the screen from showing. I suspect if you leave this and with the associated (BCM Changes) the selection will be greyed out.


So, all Ford did was Force the (Park Lights) to be included with the DRL lights and eliminated the
(Auto-Switch) function of the DRL's and also eliminated the (user) control to turn them off.


End of Canada Changes

 

[airline tech]

Ok, I played with various settings - (Forscan) & My Factory LED Headlights

I was able to get power output on Pin #6 without the truck requiring it to be in a normal configuration (Auto) & (Out of Park) - Daytime


#1 - DRL Conditions, this setting has been promoted to be if (Canada) set this to Option (B)
and this perception comes from the owner's manual & service manual (verbiage) on operation
A=Configurable (USA) -B=Conventional (Other Countries)
A=DRL active in (Auto) - B=Active in all switch positions
The PROBLEM with Option (B) and I played with multiple other settings to resolve the issue and that is (With the truck-OFF) the DRL's stay lit Bright.
I even tried using the (Current-Canada) settings to disable the (DRL-Auto) from my above post.
But I found that if I use the (IPC-Menu) they could turn off

NOTE: I did not wait for it, but I think that this would time out after (10-Minutes) this would tie in some of the operational issues with the (Timing) of the Start=Up Sequence as this was showing me the (DRL Circuit) has power

I want to also note that - with 5 different Canada (As-Built) compares, all Canadian trucks have this set the same as the (USA) - Option (A),

But these are my results of my operational tests with it set to (Option B) so for now changing this is not advisable.

726-26-01 - xxxx-xxxx-x1xx
0=Option (A) Switch in (Auto) 1=Option (B) Any switch position

Daylight:
DRL Bright: (Park) & all switch positions (Off in Off)
DRL Bright: (N) & all switch positions (Off in Off)
IPC (Menu) allows you to turn them (OFF)

Nighttime:
DRL DIM (Park) & all switch positions (Off in Off)
DRL DIM (N) & all switch positions (Off in Off)
IPC (Menu) do not allow you to turn them off

Easy Menu:

So, this setting is a (BUST) for what I am looking for, due to (1) still dim at (Nighttime) & the Power issue with the truck off. Leave this as - Option (A)

So, I was curious on how the truck would operate by (setting) the As-Builts just like the Canada Trucks.

Here are those results:
The Lights operate the exact same as the (USA) Version, the only exception is they take away any and all user (Control) for the DRL Lighting setting in the IPC Menu
So, this is also a (BUST) for what I am looking for.


Then I tried this (Setting) and various configurations with all the other DRL Options, adding Park Lights and Fogs etc.

DRL- Only: is what the factory is set at, and this will only put power on Pin#6 when in DRL (Mode) so Daylight and Auto and (Out of Park)

DRL and Position: Provided the Results Below
Daylight:
DRL OFF: (Park and Switch-Auto)
DRL Bright: (Park and Switch Headlamp & Park) (Off in Off)
DRL Bright: (N) & all switch positions (Off in Off)

Nighttime:
DRL Bright: (Park) and all switch positions (Off in Off)
DRL Bright: (N) & all switch positions (Off in Off)

I wanted to confirm via Meter - What circuit was actually powered when I was visually seeing (BRIGHT) DRL's
I confirmed that anytime the DRL is BRIGHT - Pin #6 is providing the Power
I went a step further with this and (ADDED) Include Park Lamps (DRL's) and found that with that setting - it will also supply power on Pin #5 as well as Pin #6 when it is in DRL Mode (Daytime) and (Nighttime) as they are commanded on with the Headlights.

I played with some other settings (outside) of the easy menus for (Fixed) Bright & (Fixed) Dim percentages to see if it was possible to (Lower) the brightness of the DRL - This was a (BUST)
at least with the current setting (DRL & Position)


I have found that it is confusing somewhat - when they use (Park & Position) nomenclature in various settings as they can be adjusting the same lighting source.

Example: Include (Park Lamps) as DRL's - well this incorporates both the Rear Tail Park (Position) lamps as well as the Front Side Marker (Position) and the Headlamp (Park & Position) Light.

Then you get to this setting as (Park) is not in the settings (Only Position)

But anyway - I have found what I was looking for and that was a way to (Power) Pin #6 in more configurations than the Factory Setting.

Note: The Door Ajar & Door Lock circuit - triggers the DRL Lighting in (BRIGHT)

I have determined that this setting allows (DRL) Power when its normally only (Park Lamp) power and it (Combines) the 2 circuits together as far as Power Output, so basically then same thing I was thinking with the addition of a relay, except this can be achieved via the (BCM-Programming) - COOL

Fixed DRL & Position - Setting provided the exact same results and I did not try the Stop & Turn for this test.


Now this test was done with Factory LED's, I am not sure how the Aftermarkets will (Operate)


Repost for Quick-Ref

DRL and Position: Provided the Results Below
Daylight:
DRL OFF: (Park and Switch-Auto)
DRL Bright: (Park and Switch Headlamp & Park) (Off in Off)
DRL Bright: (N) & all switch positions (Off in Off)

Nighttime:
DRL Bright: (Park) and all switch positions (Off in Off)
DRL Bright: (N) & all switch positions (Off in Off)


Again: IDK, it's a possibility it may work, but the DRL's would be locked in Bright with one exception (Daylight & Park & Auto)

It MAY be worth a try and temporarily remove the Fused Power & Wire Tap off Pin #6 just to see if the Morimoto's will Function any differently with this setting change (SET)
and also, just try the Wire Tap) with only the Factory LED Changes

With a (Back-Probe) jumper should take 5-Minutes to test it.

But I have exhausted all ideas for solutions and spent a few hours Both In & Out of the garage to find a As-Built setting that would help - well I found it, but it's a give & take solution.

DRL: Will always be BRIGHT - At least for the Factory LED's, The Morimoto's appeared to Dim Internally (Control) - IDK this requires a hands-on test with this setting.

DRL: Still triggers on (BRIGHT) when the Door is Opened or Door Lock Circuit is triggered, again this is with the Factory LED's, The Morimoto's MAY react differently, mainly dependent on the internal function of the Morimoto's.
As I have confirmed with this Setting (DRL & Position) as well as (Fixed DRL & Position)
Both Park Light Circuit (Pin#5) and DRL Circuit (Pin#6) pulse cycle power when either of the above occurs.
Vs only Park Lamp (Pin#5) circuit if set at factory settings.

The only (Feedback) setting I can find for the Door Locks is disable the Horn Feedback when the FOB is Double Pressed, I do not see one for the Lighting except (Police / Dark) Mode which will turn them off.

I have completed the research and found a solution to getting the (Start-Up) Sequence to work normally, but it (MAY) come with an unwanted feature and that is triggering with the Door Lock / Door Ajar circuit as well,
If you can live with that (Great) if not, then the Police/Dark Mode may stop that extra (Unwanted) drawback of this setting.

The only (TRUE) way to fix the issue is (Re-Wire) the Headlight Internals so that the (Start-Up) sequence will ONLY Trigger when the (Headlights) are triggered (ON) vs a outside input of DRL, even if you wire it to trigger off of (Park-Lights) it's still going to trigger the (Start-Up) sequence when a Door Is opened etc.
Then the (Start-Up) would never trigger unless the (Headlights) were commanded on, which is really how they should be wired. (the outside) trigger is what is causing the issues.

Since I do not have the Morimoto's, someone needs to make an ATTEMPT with Wiretapping (Pin#6) and see if it cures the issue for the Start-Up sequence as we have yet to actually CONFIRM the (Timing) of power input is causing it and see if the DRL will Dim down when other lighting is (on) with it.
Plus, also note - how the (Start-Up) Sequence reacts to Door Ajar / Door Lock inputs on the circuit.

We will NEVER know until somebody tries it.

 

[Big Blue]

Ok, I played with various settings - (Forscan) & My Factory LED Headlights


I have completed the research and found a solution to getting the (Start-Up) Sequence to work normally, but it (MAY) come with an unwanted feature and that is triggering with the Door Lock / Door Ajar circuit as well,
If you can live with that (Great) if not, then the Police/Dark Mode may stop that extra (Unwanted) drawback of this setting.

The only (TRUE) way to fix the issue is (Re-Wire) the Headlight Internals so that the (Start-Up) sequence will ONLY Trigger when the (Headlights) are triggered (ON) vs a outside input of DRL, even if you wire it to trigger off of (Park-Lights) it's still going to trigger the (Start-Up) sequence when a Door Is opened etc.
Then the (Start-Up) would never trigger unless the (Headlights) were commanded on, which is really how they should be wired. (the outside) trigger is what is causing the issues.

Since I do not have the Morimoto's, someone needs to make an ATTEMPT with Wiretapping (Pin#6) and see if it cures the issue for the Start-Up sequence as we have yet to actually CONFIRM the (Timing) of power input is causing it and see if the DRL will Dim down when other lighting is (on) with it.
Plus, also note - how the (Start-Up) Sequence reacts to Door Ajar / Door Lock inputs on the circuit.

We will NEVER know until somebody tries it.

From the testing I have done with my OLM lights, and the Morimoto's may vary. The startup sequence is triggered by the power coming on from the tapped source. This power also completely powers the startup sequence through completion and powers the DRLs on (bright). I believe this is the only think the tapped power is used for as the headlights work completely normal (headlights, park and turn) with out it. The startup sequence is apparently blocked or disabled by power being applied to the low beam circuit. Not sure if the sequence also block s the headlight power until it completes. This may explain the reason for only getting the sequence on one side. kind of a who gets there first thing, when starting the truck in dark mode. The only affect of power to the parking circuit is to block tapped power to the DRL and power it as a parking light (dim). This is normal as the DRLs are dim when the headlights are on with the parking/tail lights.

As I have explained before, I run my parking lights with my DRLs for personal safety reasons. So, my DRLs are always on dim, This along with also running my fogs as my DRLs gives me plenty of light up from at all times.

@airline tech has done some fabulous troubleshooting and investigation, as he always does.
I have read through and even printed off, for future reference, his latest posts. I understand most of them, and plan to investigate some of his Canadian changes for possible use.

I do not believe that any combination of Forscan changes or wire tapping is going to make the OLM/Morimoto lights work like the OEM LED lights. The issue is the built-in wiring and control logic of the aftermarket lights relating to the startup sequence.

 

[airline tech]

Just to Highlight: (Power) Supply

"From the testing I have done with my OLM lights, and the Morimoto's may vary. The startup sequence is triggered by the power coming on from the tapped source. This power also completely powers the startup sequence through completion and powers the DRLs on (bright)."


With Factory LED - You Have (Pin#6) on the Headlight Side of the connector
Pin#6 = DRL Power
Note: For a Halogen to Factory LED swap - It requires Forscan to get the BCM to open Pin#6 as a power source to truly get the full proper operation of the DRL Light output.
Due to the FACT that the Halogens are wired the same way as the Morimoto's. No Pin#6.

With the Morimoto's not having Pin#6, they had 2 options.
A. Force the buyer to use Forscan and alter how the power is applied, the same as you are required for the Halogen to Factory LED swap. (Using an incorporated Pin #6)
B. Use a Tapped source for power to supplement the Power from Pin #6 and remove Pin #6

The Morimoto's use Option (B)

Issues with Option (B)

You have taken away the (BCM-Control) of the power output of Pin #6

The requirement of Tapped Pin #6 - Power to trigger the (Start-Up) sequence plays havoc with the (Start-Up) sequence trigger when the Headlights are commended on by the BCM.
This is something that was (OVERLOOKED) when they tested the lights on a bench and not thinking about the BCM wanting to power up the headlights as well at (Night)
So, a secondary power source attempting to do the same thing, Power up the Headlights.
So, the (Start-Up) sequence is either Blocked or Hidden when this Double Power Source is applied.

The MAIN reason I am pushing for a (Wiretap) of Pin #6 is it will allow the BCM to take full control of the Power Output of Pin#6
1. The Lights would operate the exact same as the Factory LED's (IF) that (Start-Up) sequence was not a factor.
2. So, I was attempting to find a way with using (Wiretapped) power from Pin#6 to obtain the same lighting operation but better results (Timing) for the (Start-Up) sequence

This proves challenging and this challenge only relates to the (Start-Up) sequence as all other lighting will operate normally and that challenge is how to program the BCM to operate the DRL Power (Output of Pin #6) to get the Morimoto's to command the (Start-Up) sequence every time the truck is started. The same (Intention) that Morimoto had when they designed the lights.

With the BCM and Factory LED settings - The only time Pin #6 Powers is when it's in (DRL Mode)
So, this means that the Morimoto's (Wiretapped to Pin #6) would only power the DRL & the (Start-Up) sequence - Day - (Auto) & (Out of Gear)
This is why I was looking for ways to get (DRL Power- Pin #6) to be produced by the BCM outside of those settings.
Which I was able to accomplish - partially and some possible draw backs
So, it's not a WIN, but it is possible solution to cure the (Start-Up) sequence functionality at (Night) but in order to get that function you have lost the (Day) start up sequence until you come out of gear.
So, it flips the issue to Day vs Night - Well that's a partial win, as now the BCM will hopefully allow the Start-Up sequence at (Night) since it's in full control of the lighting.
In (Day) the (Start-Up) will function normally, it just will not trigger until you meet the (BCM) control of the DRL Lighting in (Auto) and/or you physically move the Headlight switch out of (Auto) position.

And then add in that with the (above) BCM setting change, this also powers up pin #6 when the door ajar / door lock circuit is triggered,
Depending on how the Morimoto's react to that scenario, this setting may also trigger that start-up sequence as well.
More than likely - IT WILL
so that creates another - Work Around

And that is set up Police Mode, which I have, and this adds an IPC Menu (Selectable) option to turn (OFF) all exterior lighting feedback when the truck if (OFF)
1. So, a fix for the (Unwanted) - (Start-Up) sequence trigger, but you have lost all exterior lighting feedback (Lights Flashing) for (Entry-Exit) & (Door Lock/Unlock)
This can easily be set (On or Off) in the IPC Menu

Note: I forgot to test this out - when I had the BCM (Setting) changed to:
DRL and Position to ensure its operation was the same (No Lighting-Feedback)



So, all the Fused Tapped Power from Fuse #19 is doing is replacing the power output from the BCM for DRL Power (Pin #6)
1. The Morimoto's make this power (Full-Time) and that full time power when in (Dark) to be used to also trigger a (Start-Up) sequence when the BCM is also trying to do the same (Issue)
2. I was thinking that by swapping that (Tapped) source to (Wiretapped) then it would let the (Start-Up) sequence be better controlled which if (CONFIRMED) it is a (Timing Issue) then yes this would cure the (Start-Up) sequence issue.
3. The Challange is - Getting the BCM to produce power output on Pin #6, when you want it there.

No matter how you have it set up -to get Power on Pin #6 or Fuse Tapped Power to Pin #6 wiring circuit on the Morimoto's, they appear that they will never fully function properly as they were intended -due to how the (Start-Up) sequence is triggered.
They need opened up - or a closer inspection of the wire harness and determine which wire (Internally) coming off of that (Tapped-Power) feeds over to the (Relay) that triggers the Start-Up sequence.

Thats all the (Start-Up) sequence needs to see - (A Power Source) being applied to that relay to get it to trigger.
The Morimoto's use (Pin #6)
That needs (MOVED) to Pin #2 - Let Pin #2 (Low Beam) power be the trigger vs Pin #6 and all the issues are resolved.
That is (IF) it is wired the way I think it is.

If I had a Morimoto on a bench in front of me, I could easily test this out and move that power input requirement.
I have the necessary tool to do this easily: My Power Probe, I can hit any circuit with it and power the circuit without the need for jumper wires.

The only drawback of moving this is: The Start-Up sequence will only trigger when the Low Beams are commanded (ON) which for me would be a better operational function vs having it trigger with the DRL circuit which is not really a drawback.

The (Unknown) will moving the trigger over - still allow the (Start-Up) sequence or will it still command them on and skip the sequence.
It all depends on how they have it wired (Internally) as an option is to by-pass the relay all together and have it so when power comes in on Pin #2, it goes directly to the module that is producing the sequence (Phased-Sequence)

Basically, get this to work in a real-world environment and take it a step further than the Morimoto engineers did - fix their oversite. But in order to perform this easily the light needs to be on a bench and tested before its installed.

If I had one in front of me, I could correct this issue and rewire that input, since that is not the case then I have to attempt to find alternate solutions for this to work properly, and those alienate solutions come with only (Partially) working the way it was intended, and it also induces (Unwanted) triggers.
So, the only true way to fix that (Start-Up) sequence is to rewire the light assembly and internal trigger (Input) for it.
1. This VOIDS the Warranty
2. You have to Remove the Light Assemblies

So, you are stuck in a (LOOP) and will never have full proper operation of the Start-Up sequence
until we can determine how its wired internally and see if that trigger wire can be accessed from outside the light assembly and done (On-Vehicle) and can this be done without wire damage (Cutting) and can this be done with a simple (Re-Pinning) of a connector and how easily can the internal wiring be accessed - The Module Mounting & Wire Grommet -How much access will it allow with the lights installed?

Basically, I need to know where the (Tapped) DRL feeds to: What Relay?
That Relay is what is receiving the (Start-Up) command sequence
Remove that input to the relay and wire the Low Beam (Pin #2) instead to replace that input trigger.
or
Wire Pin #2 directly to the (Start-Up) sequence control module that the other side of the relay is going to.

Because all that relay is doing (Internally) is using the (Tapped) Power source to apply power to the Headlight circuit via that relay and when that relay closes (Internally) the headlight is using the (Tapped) power source to apply power to the (Start-Up) module which then is programmed to use the (Tapped) power source to cycle power across the Headlight Circuits, and it appears that it cycles both (Low & High Beam) circuits using that (Tapped) power.
If the BCM is already applying power to the circuit (In-Dark) then the (Start-Up) sequence is either HIDDEN or BLOCKED from occurring as there is already power on the circuit.

So, if we actually rewire the Headlight to pick up the trigger to command the (Start-Up) module action, then I suspect it MAY allow the sequence to complete (First)
That would be the only way to truly fix the issue, The BCM will still see power output and not throw any codes, the only thing is the Headlight (Output) will be delayed until the Start-Up sequence completes.
Again, this will VOID the Warranty and Requires Possible cutting of wires - IDK it all depends on how easy or hard the Morimoto's wire harness make it.

 

[Big Blue]

OK, sitting here and reading @airline tech last few posts I came to a new conclusion. The Morimoto and my OLMs are working exactly as designed. The light startup sequence was never intended to happen when the headlights were powered on. The fact that we get one at all when we start the truck with with the switch in Auto and the truck in dark mode, IS the glitch. It is due to the trucks BCM timing of turning the two (left and right) headlight circuits. One side (I believe the left) is just enough slower to occasionally trip the startup sequence and locks out the headlight until completed. This doesn't happen any other time this is the only time the headlights are commanded on during startup.

If people don't use the Auto switch position, everything works fine. The sequence will have plenty of time to complete before the headlights are turned on. Or, if the person turns on the headlights before starting they have plenty of time to block the sequence.

As far as making Forscan changes to make them work like the OEM LED lights, not going to happen. That would require firmware edits to the BCM software to control the lights differently, again not going to happen.

The second thought of rewiring the inputs to the headlights also will not solve this issue especially using the headlight power. You would never get a startup sequence as power to that circuit is what blocks the sequence. Any other feed will also likely give undesirable results ( trying to do a startup sequence at undesirable times. And good luck getting a set of lights to play without coughing up $1500 for a set. I'm pretty sure Morimoto has no intrest in this issue. especially since the 5G rangers are out of production and any solution would require major changes and costs.

So the choices are.
1: live with the random sequences when starting in Auto/dark mode.

2: Do as I have currently and disconnect the tapped power, leave the DRLs checked in the IPC menu. Use Forscan to move Your DRLs to something other than low beams and include your parking lights with the DRLs. This will eliminate the startup sequence completely as well as having the DRL bars on Bright during the daytime. They will work similar to Canada except they will only be one when out of park and the will be one in Dim because the parking/tail lights will be on.

 

[jdjeff]

I made a post back on page 3 that said this:

I tested this as you requested and a little bit more:

Ok...with no key in the ignition and the switch in auto, I changed the switch from auto to headlights. The lights came on with no startup. When I turn the key to start the truck, there is no change to the lights.

The second thing I tried was to get in the truck with the light switch to off. Upon turning the key to start the truck, I get the startup sequence on both headlights every time. Also, drivers side light bar is off and passenger side is on. Still in the off position only the lightbar remains on the passenger side. If I continue and start the truck, passenger side light bar goes out and the two lightbars come on, with driver's side coming on first for a split second followed by the passenger side. It really get convoluted trying to run back and forth door open door closed I really can't tell what all the interlocks might be. But this behavior was pretty consistent.

After thinking about this for a little bit, it occurred to me that this seems like the same problem in reverse from starting in auto.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you said just now in your most recent post. Have you been able to repeat this behavior. What I think you are saying is that the startup seq never works when powering up the lights. But it does work when turning the key with lights in the off postion. However, the light bars are acting goofy with my current configuration. I'm just a little confused.

 

[airline tech]

I made a post back on page 3 that said this:

I tested this as you requested and a little bit more:

Ok...with no key in the ignition and the switch in auto, I changed the switch from auto to headlights. The lights came on with no startup. When I turn the key to start the truck, there is no change to the lights.

The second thing I tried was to get in the truck with the light switch to off. Upon turning the key to start the truck, I get the startup sequence on both headlights every time. Also, drivers side light bar is off and passenger side is on. Still in the off position only the lightbar remains on the passenger side. If I continue and start the truck, passenger side light bar goes out and the two lightbars come on, with driver's side coming on first for a split second followed by the passenger side. It really get convoluted trying to run back and forth door open door closed I really can't tell what all the interlocks might be. But this behavior was pretty consistent.

After thinking about this for a little bit, it occurred to me that this seems like the same problem in reverse from starting in auto.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you said just now in your most recent post. Have you been able to repeat this behavior. What I think you are saying is that the startup seq never works when powering up the lights. But it does work when turning the key with lights in the off postion. However, the light bars are acting goofy with my current configuration. I'm just a little confused.

In your above findings and scenarios, the bottom line is the (Start-Up) relays are being forced out of sequence and its due to the BCM and (2) separate power sources from the BCM
Fuse #62 - Powers all LH Lighting
Fuse #67 - Powers all RH Lighting

Fuse #67 - incorporates the BCM (PCM-Wake & On-Demand Batt Save) circuits
With the (Switch-In Off) and a factory wiring setup there should be no power on the headlights, but since there is tapped power the RH side is getting powered and since the Full Ignition start has not been completed, power output to the (Headlight-Switch-ALL Circuits) has not been established (The Bat Save feature is still holding on the LH side of the lighting) as it is looking for (ISP-R) Ignition Switch Position - Run - via the Can Bus Data. (Inside the BCM)

The above is part of the problem

The bottom line is - The Tapped power source is not playing nice with the BCM, and it throws the Start-Up sequence out of sync in certain scenarios - (Meaning the Headlight) Relays that receive that power (input) to get the sequence started.

The second part of the problem is that the intended startup sequence is set to command a triggered sequence on the headlights at all times when power is introduced- works flawlessly until the BCM already has them commanded on.

I strongly feel that if we could move that programmed trigger from the DRL to strictly (ONLY) when the headlights are commanded on will cure the start-up sequence issues but if you were to hit a long tunnel while driving (The Headlights would go through the startup sequence) before coming on.
It's a simple matter of rewiring the headlight and the power input trigger on the module for it to work.
1. Problem - This will VOID the warranty on the headlights
2. Doable but need to have light on a bench and opened up to determine what wire needs repined.

Or
Make the Forscan changes I have highlighted and Wie-Tap pin #6, this comes with drawbacks though, Opposite the disconnect of the DRL Harness, the DRL will be forced to always Bight and if you do not want the (Door Lock - Door Ajar) feedback to trigger the startup sequence then you will also have to add the (Police/Dark Car) mode and have it enabled as well.

So, we have found a few options for the Morimoto's, and it depends on what do you want to gain or lose. What option serves yours needs best?

one other option would be - Locate the wire that feeds the startup module and simply De-Pin it.
Wire-Tap Pin#6 power and set up Forscan as if these were Lariat LED assemblies
Make any changes you want - (+ Park Lights or +Foglight's) and they will function normally just without the fancy startup sequence. The DRL (Bright) will power just like the Factory LEDs operate.

By De-Pinning you are not Voiding the warranty as you are not damaging any wiring, just simply Re-Pin it back before sending them off for any warranty claim.

So, if we take what @Big Blue has done and dive a bit deeper into the headlight, we can eliminate the startup sequence (The BIG ISSUE HERE) but still have a functioning (Bright-DRL) light output.

But in order to do it, I would need to get one opened up and decipher which wire needs (De-Pinned) to eliminate the sequence or (Moved) to keep the sequence but trigger with a different input (Most Likely) the Headlight Power itself.
TBH - I vote for eliminating the sequence altogether at this point unless I can get it to work properly with only a headlight input trigger - and have it work flawlessly as it does just by tapping in the DRL power from the battery source. -That is the (Unknown)

So, IF I had a Morimoto headlight on a bench, I could determine what needs done, but I cannot do it without physically having one in my hands due to the fact that I cannot locate any documents on how they are wired internally.

Sponsored