Issues with morimoto xb headlights

[jdjeff]

Not to hijack, but has anyone experienced a flaky startup sequence on the XB's? I run my lights in auto on my '21 Ranger XLT Sport.. So when I turn the truck on, it's in auto. Here's the issue:

When my dash light sensor sees 'dark' like in my garage, the startup sequence only works on the left side. When my dash light sensor sees daylight, the startup sequence works properly on both lights. Other than that, they work great. When I call Morimoto they say "Just send them back". It took me and my buddy 5 hours to rip that front end apart and I'm not doing that again. Just checking in to see if anyone knows a fix for this issue.

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[airline tech]

Not to hijack, but has anyone experienced a flaky startup sequence on the XB's? I run my lights in auto on my '21 Ranger XLT Sport.. So when I turn the truck on, it's in auto. Here's the issue:

When my dash light sensor sees 'dark' like in my garage, the startup sequence only works on the left side. When my dash light sensor sees daylight, the startup sequence works properly on both lights. Other than that, they work great. When I call Morimoto they say, "Just send them back". It took me and my buddy 5 hours to rip that front end apart and I'm not doing that again. Just checking in to see if anyone knows a fix for this issue.

Since you have had issues since install as I suspect the Start-Up (Sequence) itself is triggered by that (Tapped) source and it is a shared source for power (Internally wired) inside the headlight.
I have always been highly curious (Exactly) which OE wire they are tapping. I am assuming it's the DRL Wire (Pin # 6)

With this being a shared circuit - I wonder if (you actually are getting power @ both of the DRL harness connectors (Both LH & RH) The Tapped Power (Source)
This TEST check is important as it MAY be possible that the RH side is not getting power on that connector.

That Start-Up sequence is looking for a power input and in (Auto) and (Dark) I am thinking that the RH Light is not seeing a (Voltage) input to trigger the Start-Up Sequence from the (Headlamps) on circuit (Auto-Trigger) as this is internally wired - so it's only seeing the initial Headlamps (On) and not a DRL (On) command trigger.

So, with your issue, I suspect the RH (added tapped) harness is actually not feeding any power to the light assembly and the only DRL power that it is seeing is the BCM power for the DRL circuit.

NOTE: Since I cannot see (EXACTLY) what wire they are tapping, I can only ASSUME it's the DRL wire and with that I can ASSUME that DRL tap is the trigger for the (Start-Up) sequence.

A test would be - Unplug the connector (Tapped) power from the Left Headlight and see if the Start-Up sequence stops on that light assembly.

While disconnected - Check that wire for (Power) with Engine Running and then (Repeat the same for the (Right side).
If both sides have power on the connectors, then the issue may lie with the RH Light Assembly itself.

You can also run a (Power) test on the OE Harness, just for curiosity on when that OE Pin #6 gets power - set it up for DRL to be on (is there power on Pin#6)? now go to your IPC menu and select the DRL (On) as I believe you have it (Off) - results change?
They may not (differ) due to the current (As-Built) settings and power on Pin#6 may be turned off and it is only using Pin#2 (The Low-Beam) power circuit as the DRL Power.

Note: See how the DRL circuit is Double Powered - By Pin #2 and Pin #6, this is the main reason I was pushing the Forscan Changes, as the OE (Halo's) do not have a Pin#6 on the headlamp assemblies - The DRL circuit is powered off of the Low Beam circuit.
The Factory LED assemblies - Only Power off of Pin #6 for DRL, so if no changes are made then the DRL will still get power, but it is a shared power source with the Low Beams

So, when Aftermarkets come in with tapped power source the way I see it is its still being double powered from 2 sources (Tapped & BCM) power.

So yes, the light works and from what you have said the DRL works, but I think it's not getting that secondary (Power) source tap, be it the wire to it or the light itself.

Ref: Headlight Connector

Using this as a guide - match up the OE Harness connector to the (Motto) Connector and from the (Moto) connector do these (Continuity) checks
Since I cannot see where they are tapping that (Tapped Source) we can find it by:

In (Ohms) scale: (Meter)
Pos Lead: To the Tapped (Extra) single wire from the back side of the LH Headlight
Neg: Lead: To each of the 8 Wires in the connector (assuming they matched OE) wiring.
and note which wire gives you continuity (Should be Pin #6) buy may also be (Pin #2) either only one of them or both.
Also - On this connector check for continuity between (Pins 2 & 8) and (Pins 6 & 4)

This will show the results that you should see on the RH Light assembly, so repeat the same for the RH light assembly and note any different (continuity) readings

These tests will confirm if you have a bad light assembly (or more specific) not wired correctly internally. I am more concerned about (Pin #6 to the Tapped Pigtail) that is hanging out of the back of the headlight assemblies (if the LH side has continuity and the RH side does not) then it's not wired correctly (internally) and this is why the Start-Up sequence will not work (Auto-Dark)

 

[OFC Ranger]

Seems like Morimoto needs to get with their Chinese suppliers and up their spec work game.

I mean after all these are top shelf, premium headlights right?

 

[Rp930]

Not sure how they stay in business. The catch can hose failures, headlights that don’t work,…

 

[jdjeff]

Since you have had issues since install as I suspect the Start-Up (Sequence) itself is triggered by that (Tapped) source and it is a shared source for power (Internally wired) inside the headlight.
I have always been highly curious (Exactly) which OE wire they are tapping. I am assuming it's the DRL Wire (Pin # 6)

With this being a shared circuit - I wonder if (you actually are getting power @ both of the DRL harness connectors (Both LH & RH) The Tapped Power (Source)
This TEST check is important as it MAY be possible that the RH side is not getting power on that connector.

That Start-Up sequence is looking for a power input and in (Auto) and (Dark) I am thinking that the RH Light is not seeing a (Voltage) input to trigger the Start-Up Sequence from the (Headlamps) on circuit (Auto-Trigger) as this is internally wired - so it's only seeing the initial Headlamps (On) and not a DRL (On) command trigger.

So, with your issue, I suspect the RH (added tapped) harness is actually not feeding any power to the light assembly and the only DRL power that it is seeing is the BCM power for the DRL circuit.

NOTE: Since I cannot see (EXACTLY) what wire they are tapping, I can only ASSUME it's the DRL wire and with that I can ASSUME that DRL tap is the trigger for the (Start-Up) sequence.

A test would be - Unplug the connector (Tapped) power from the Left Headlight and see if the Start-Up sequence stops on that light assembly.

While disconnected - Check that wire for (Power) with Engine Running and then (Repeat the same for the (Right side).
If both sides have power on the connectors, then the issue may lie with the RH Light Assembly itself.

You can also run a (Power) test on the OE Harness, just for curiosity on when that OE Pin #6 gets power - set it up for DRL to be on (is there power on Pin#6)? now go to your IPC menu and select the DRL (On) as I believe you have it (Off) - results change?
They may not (differ) due to the current (As-Built) settings and power on Pin#6 may be turned off and it is only using Pin#2 (The Low-Beam) power circuit as the DRL Power.

Note: See how the DRL circuit is Double Powered - By Pin #2 and Pin #6, this is the main reason I was pushing the Forscan Changes, as the OE (Halo's) do not have a Pin#6 on the headlamp assemblies - The DRL circuit is powered off of the Low Beam circuit.
The Factory LED assemblies - Only Power off of Pin #6 for DRL, so if no changes are made then the DRL will still get power, but it is a shared power source with the Low Beams

So, when Aftermarkets come in with tapped power source the way I see it is its still being double powered from 2 sources (Tapped & BCM) power.

So yes, the light works and from what you have said the DRL works, but I think it's not getting that secondary (Power) source tap, be it the wire to it or the light itself.

Ref: Headlight Connector

Using this as a guide - match up the OE Harness connector to the (Motto) Connector and from the (Moto) connector do these (Continuity) checks
Since I cannot see where they are tapping that (Tapped Source) we can find it by:

In (Ohms) scale: (Meter)
Pos Lead: To the Tapped (Extra) single wire from the back side of the LH Headlight
Neg: Lead: To each of the 8 Wires in the connector (assuming they matched OE) wiring.
and note which wire gives you continuity (Should be Pin #6) buy may also be (Pin #2) either only one of them or both.
Also - On this connector check for continuity between (Pins 2 & 8) and (Pins 6 & 4)

This will show the results that you should see on the RH Light assembly, so repeat the same for the RH light assembly and note any different (continuity) readings

These tests will confirm if you have a bad light assembly (or more specific) not wired correctly internally. I am more concerned about (Pin #6 to the Tapped Pigtail) that is hanging out of the back of the headlight assemblies (if the LH side has continuity and the RH side does not) then it's not wired correctly (internally) and this is why the Start-Up sequence will not work (Auto-Dark)

Ok..thanks for that great response. I did not mention that Dark/Auto will sometimes work properly. And sometimes it doesn't work at all. My first issues were with the DRL. But between the fuse tap and the dash settings, I got those working. I tried setting the lights to Larioat using Foorscan and that where they are set now. What I do notice is that there is a slight delay with the DRL's when turning the key in Day/Auto. There is enough going on to call these lights 'buggy'. I'll read through your post and see if I come up with anything. But these days it's cold as hell so I'm not sure when I can get to it. On the other hand my buddy has a heated garage so maybe it will be sooner than later. Thanks for the detailed troubleshooting guide, I appreciate it!

 

[jdjeff]

Since you have had issues since install as I suspect the Start-Up (Sequence) itself is triggered by that (Tapped) source and it is a shared source for power (Internally wired) inside the headlight.
I have always been highly curious (Exactly) which OE wire they are tapping. I am assuming it's the DRL Wire (Pin # 6)

With this being a shared circuit - I wonder if (you actually are getting power @ both of the DRL harness connectors (Both LH & RH) The Tapped Power (Source)
This TEST check is important as it MAY be possible that the RH side is not getting power on that connector.

That Start-Up sequence is looking for a power input and in (Auto) and (Dark) I am thinking that the RH Light is not seeing a (Voltage) input to trigger the Start-Up Sequence from the (Headlamps) on circuit (Auto-Trigger) as this is internally wired - so it's only seeing the initial Headlamps (On) and not a DRL (On) command trigger.

So, with your issue, I suspect the RH (added tapped) harness is actually not feeding any power to the light assembly and the only DRL power that it is seeing is the BCM power for the DRL circuit.

NOTE: Since I cannot see (EXACTLY) what wire they are tapping, I can only ASSUME it's the DRL wire and with that I can ASSUME that DRL tap is the trigger for the (Start-Up) sequence.

A test would be - Unplug the connector (Tapped) power from the Left Headlight and see if the Start-Up sequence stops on that light assembly.

While disconnected - Check that wire for (Power) with Engine Running and then (Repeat the same for the (Right side).
If both sides have power on the connectors, then the issue may lie with the RH Light Assembly itself.

You can also run a (Power) test on the OE Harness, just for curiosity on when that OE Pin #6 gets power - set it up for DRL to be on (is there power on Pin#6)? now go to your IPC menu and select the DRL (On) as I believe you have it (Off) - results change?
They may not (differ) due to the current (As-Built) settings and power on Pin#6 may be turned off and it is only using Pin#2 (The Low-Beam) power circuit as the DRL Power.

Note: See how the DRL circuit is Double Powered - By Pin #2 and Pin #6, this is the main reason I was pushing the Forscan Changes, as the OE (Halo's) do not have a Pin#6 on the headlamp assemblies - The DRL circuit is powered off of the Low Beam circuit.
The Factory LED assemblies - Only Power off of Pin #6 for DRL, so if no changes are made then the DRL will still get power, but it is a shared power source with the Low Beams

So, when Aftermarkets come in with tapped power source the way I see it is its still being double powered from 2 sources (Tapped & BCM) power.

So yes, the light works and from what you have said the DRL works, but I think it's not getting that secondary (Power) source tap, be it the wire to it or the light itself.

Ref: Headlight Connector

Using this as a guide - match up the OE Harness connector to the (Motto) Connector and from the (Moto) connector do these (Continuity) checks
Since I cannot see where they are tapping that (Tapped Source) we can find it by:

In (Ohms) scale: (Meter)
Pos Lead: To the Tapped (Extra) single wire from the back side of the LH Headlight
Neg: Lead: To each of the 8 Wires in the connector (assuming they matched OE) wiring.
and note which wire gives you continuity (Should be Pin #6) buy may also be (Pin #2) either only one of them or both.
Also - On this connector check for continuity between (Pins 2 & 8) and (Pins 6 & 4)

This will show the results that you should see on the RH Light assembly, so repeat the same for the RH light assembly and note any different (continuity) readings

These tests will confirm if you have a bad light assembly (or more specific) not wired correctly internally. I am more concerned about (Pin #6 to the Tapped Pigtail) that is hanging out of the back of the headlight assemblies (if the LH side has continuity and the RH side does not) then it's not wired correctly (internally) and this is why the Start-Up sequence will not work (Auto-Dark)

Let me ask you this. I haven't tried all the steps you outlined but I've also been thinking...if I disconnect the fuse tap wire then select DRL in my dash settings, will the startup sequence be disabled? And will DRLs still work properly? I'm thinking of just disabling startup sequence since everything else is working correctly.

 

[bmidd]

Not sure how they stay in business. The catch can hose failures, headlights that don’t work,…

Wasn't aware Morimoto made catch cans.

 

[airline tech]

Let me ask you this. I haven't tried all the steps you outlined but I've also been thinking...if I disconnect the fuse tap wire then select DRL in my dash settings, will the startup sequence be disabled? And will DRLs still work properly? I'm thinking of just disabling startup sequence since everything else is working correctly.

I am starting a thread - Ref Below, but I need detailed info on them, which I do not have

(1) Aftermarket Headlights - Wiring & Issues (Group Help) | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

 

[Lsteele87]

Did you ever get this resolved? I recently purchased a 2021 Ranger with factory LEDs, installed the Morimoto XB headlights, and I am having the identical symptom. I had a couple of friends offer a suggestion, but I was curious what happened on your end.

Man I would kill to find a set of OEM LED headlights that I could stomach purchasing to replace my morimoto's because just like in this post I have had nothing but issues and I am on warranty number three and if you have ever installed them which I'm sure you have you know that means I have taken apart my front end way too many times lol

 

[YouStayClassy]

Man I would kill to find a set of OEM LED headlights that I could stomach purchasing to replace my morimoto's because just like in this post I have had nothing but issues and I am on warranty number three and if you have ever installed them which I'm sure you have you know that means I have taken apart my front end way too many times lol

I feel you at times! One day they work and the next they don’t. Morimoto wanted me to uninstall and ship them back. It won’t resolve the issue so I’ve just learned to live with it. They don’t malfunction all of the time, and I’m tired of fussing with Forscan.

 

[Lsteele87]

I feel you at times! One day they work and the next they don’t. Morimoto wanted me to uninstall and ship them back. It won’t resolve the issue so I’ve just learned to live with it. They don’t malfunction all of the time, and I’m tired of fussing with Forscan.

Currently my DRLS are bright as the sun but my turn signals don't work at all and that's a non starter, i sourced a few used but unbroken tabbed OEM lights from ebay so I'm going to pull them out replace them with OEM and most likely Morimoto or headlight revolution will give me store credit i doubt they will refund the money but that's ok i have a 14 f150 that could use a set of XBs and the f150 community has had 0 problems with morimotos so i feel confident on that one. Seems like the rangers are the only ones.

 

[Lsteele87]

I am starting a thread - Ref Below, but I need detailed info on them, which I do not have

(1) Aftermarket Headlights - Wiring & Issues (Group Help) | 2019+ Ford Ranger and Raptor Forum (5th Generation) - Ranger5G.com

@airline tech I remember you saying you put in OEM LED assemblies finally, I just got mine installed they are OEM LED also and mine is a Lariat that had them deleted due to shortages, what options in forescan did you have to change to get them to work correctly, currently i enabled them and have them set for Low beam and dedicated DRL config and the DRL lamp circuit usage is set to Fixed DRL and Postion.

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