Switch to activate perimeter alarm if Tailgate is opened

[airline tech]

If the Ford alarm is essentially an alarm system there is likely a ground sensing trigger circuit that can be accessed. @airline tech provided some nice details of the inside tailgate lever mechanism and though the CAD design comment may have been something of a joke it's where a bracket to hold a switch inside the tailgate and a contact point would go. Then a lead to interface with the alarm trigger. If the alarm sounds when the door handles are 'checked' when armed it would be easy to chase down. We've already seen that the Ford pass reports alarm events, I haven't looked to see if it does push notifications as well? That should avoid the 'hood ajar' warning of tapping into the hood trigger when driving with tailgate open.

The Factory Alarm uses the Door Ajar circuit, so the Door or Hood has to be opened to trigger.
I tested mine when I first got the truck.

Lock the truck with window down, take keys away from truck and wait (20 seconds or longer - preferably over a minute.
Reach in and using interior handle, open the door - after a 12-second delay the alarm will sound.

Alternate Way:
Lock the doors, take FOB / Keys away from the truck, wait 20 seconds to 1 minute.
And use the Key Blade (ONLY) to unlock the door, FOB not near the truck.
From the exterior handle - open the door - after a 12-second delay the Alarm will sound.

Alternate Way - Lariat (Passive Entry)
Lock the doors and use the (Key Blade) to unlock the door.
If you have the Lariat with the (Passive Entry) grab the exterior handle on the outside of the handle and pull it to open the door - After a 12-Second delay the Alarm will sound.
Basically, you do not want the (Handle) to sense your hand behind the handle (generating- the electronic unlock)

So, a handle check will not set off the alarm, it takes the door or hood to be opened (Door Ajar) to trigger the alarm.

What Bsthroop did was extend the Hood Ajar (Hood Opened) circuit back to the Tailgate.

What we need to do - To get a Handle Check on the Tailgate, tied in, is to find a spot on the latch / handle mechanism to mount a (Proximity Sensor) that will detect movement.

The CAD design comment was a driving force in our new option (Dipstick) aka Fitzstick

It will serve the same function as the external (Microswitch) that Bsthrrop has installed, only moving and modifying his solution some.
This is where we will need to open up the cover and look at the mechanics inner workings of the handle and latches.
Compare Locked - Operation to Unlocked Operation of the handle.
What exactly does not move when locked and what moves?

So, when locked - place a proximity sensor on any part of the mechanism that moves (Handle Check)

The Hurdles to Overcome:

The alarm activates with a 12-Second delay.
So, a quick handle check (MAY NOT) trigger the alarm, as it would be a brief pull and release hey its locked.----Get the screwdriver.

1. Find a spot for mounting a Proximity Sensor - Handle Movement (When - Locked)
Once a spot is found, that will work, find a way to mount in possibly (3D Printed) mounting block for the sensor.

2. Check operation for the input trigger, will a momentary handle check on the Tailgate, actually trigger the alarm (Less than 12-seconds) OR does it have to see a constant (Proximity Away) for 12-Seconds then trigger the alarm. (This is the main factor for proper operation)
Sure, you can hold the handle out for 12-seconds and the alarm will trigger, but that is not going to help in resolving this issue.

3. Wiring is simple, the Hood Ajar Switch is just 2-wires, Power & Ground
The Hood Ajar Switch is a (NC) Normally Closed switch, so when the hood is opened the Ground is broken, which triggers the IPC message and if armed the Alarm.
It uses body ground, and its power source comes from the BCM.

So, for a wire run, it will only need (1) wire to tap into the Hood Ajar switch and (1) wire to a body ground anywhere along the frame.
I am sure this is how @ Bsthroop wired his setup.

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[kendive]

They aren't stealing the gate, rather the valuable black market LED tail light assemblies.

They still have to open the gate and get in the bed of the truck to get to that...

 

[airline tech]

They still have to open the gate and get in the bed of the truck to get to that...

True , that’s the issue, even when locked , a screwdriver and 30 seconds to 1 minute, they have the tailgate opened.
A cordless drill and a nut driver bit and 30 seconds to 1 minute more both taillight assemblies are out and wiring is cut with dykes if they are nice they will only disconnect the connectors saving the wire harness without damage.

 

[Scottlane1171]

Saw another feed about this where a guy put a 1/4” steel plate on the inside with epoxy to at least make it tougher to get in.

 

[Jhbryaniv]

The Factory Alarm uses the Door Ajar circuit, so the Door or Hood has to be opened to trigger.
I tested mine when I first got the truck.

Lock the truck with window down, take keys away from truck and wait (20 seconds or longer - preferably over a minute.
Reach in and using interior handle, open the door - after a 12-second delay the alarm will sound.

Alternate Way:
Lock the doors, take FOB / Keys away from the truck, wait 20 seconds to 1 minute.
And use the Key Blade (ONLY) to unlock the door, FOB not near the truck.
From the exterior handle - open the door - after a 12-second delay the Alarm will sound.

Alternate Way - Lariat (Passive Entry)
Lock the doors and use the (Key Blade) to unlock the door.
If you have the Lariat with the (Passive Entry) grab the exterior handle on the outside of the handle and pull it to open the door - After a 12-Second delay the Alarm will sound.
Basically, you do not want the (Handle) to sense your hand behind the handle (generating- the electronic unlock)

So, a handle check will not set off the alarm, it takes the door or hood to be opened (Door Ajar) to trigger the alarm.

What Bsthroop did was extend the Hood Ajar (Hood Opened) circuit back to the Tailgate.

What we need to do - To get a Handle Check on the Tailgate, tied in, is to find a spot on the latch / handle mechanism to mount a (Proximity Sensor) that will detect movement.

The CAD design comment was a driving force in our new option (Dipstick) aka Fitzstick

It will serve the same function as the external (Microswitch) that Bsthrrop has installed, only moving and modifying his solution some.
This is where we will need to open up the cover and look at the mechanics inner workings of the handle and latches.
Compare Locked - Operation to Unlocked Operation of the handle.
What exactly does not move when locked and what moves?

So, when locked - place a proximity sensor on any part of the mechanism that moves (Handle Check)

The Hurdles to Overcome:

The alarm activates with a 12-Second delay.
So, a quick handle check (MAY NOT) trigger the alarm, as it would be a brief pull and release hey its locked.----Get the screwdriver.

1. Find a spot for mounting a Proximity Sensor - Handle Movement (When - Locked)
Once a spot is found, that will work, find a way to mount in possibly (3D Printed) mounting block for the sensor.

2. Check operation for the input trigger, will a momentary handle check on the Tailgate, actually trigger the alarm (Less than 12-seconds) OR does it have to see a constant (Proximity Away) for 12-Seconds then trigger the alarm. (This is the main factor for proper operation)
Sure, you can hold the handle out for 12-seconds and the alarm will trigger, but that is not going to help in resolving this issue.

3. Wiring is simple, the Hood Ajar Switch is just 2-wires, Power & Ground
The Hood Ajar Switch is a (NC) Normally Closed switch, so when the hood is opened the Ground is broken, which triggers the IPC message and if armed the Alarm.
It uses body ground, and its power source comes from the BCM.

So, for a wire run, it will only need (1) wire to tap into the Hood Ajar switch and (1) wire to a body ground anywhere along the frame.
I am sure this is how @ Bsthroop wired his setup.

What about a magnetic Reed switch in the cable to open the tailgate?

ATTACH a magnet to the cable, and the magnetic Reed switch to a solid place. When tailgate is opened it could trigger the same signal as good open and sound alarm, but when left open to carry large loads it wouldn't sound...

Normally closed Reed switch that would work in a rugged environment can't be that expensive... And it could be hidden fairly easily in the tailgate itself...

Is the cable for tailgate release braided/twisted or solid?

 

[Jhbryaniv]

But it would be momentarily - almost would need a latching circuit in line with the Reed switch to latch open so the system doesn't register the hood closed again...

 

[Scottlane1171]

What about a magnetic Reed switch in the cable to open the tailgate?

ATTACH a magnet to the cable, and the magnetic Reed switch to a solid place. When tailgate is opened it could trigger the same signal as good open and sound alarm, but when left open to carry large loads it wouldn't sound...

Normally closed Reed switch that would work in a rugged environment can't be that expensive... And it could be hidden fairly easily in the tailgate itself...

Is the cable for tailgate release braided/twisted or solid?

It is a solid piece

 

[airline tech]

If I get time soon, I plan on doing a simple test with the Hood Ajar.
Open the Hood, physically move the latch to close. thus, simulating the hood closed

Then Arm the Alarm System - Physically open the latch briefly then close it.
and see if I can get an Alarm trigger.
If so then this will translate to the Tailgate Handle (Brief Handle - Pull & Release)

If this test is successful, then we are down to finding a mounting point for a Proximity Sensor / Reed Switch that will see handle movement when locked.

If we place the sensor / switch on any part that moves (in the Un-Locked) position, they have already punched through the tailgate to bypass the lock to actuate the rotating part of the mechanism to pull the rods that connect to the tailgate latches on the sides of the tailgate.

So, in order for this to be a working deterrent we need it to pick up handle movement when in a locked position. This will help protect the tailgate from damage and the contents in the bed and the taillight assemblies.
If it is placed in any other position, it is only going to trigger after they have bypassed the lock and go to actually open it. So, this will help (deterrent) in protecting the contents of the bed and the taillights but will not protect the tailgate from damage.
This type of sensor / switch will just be a Tailgate Ajar alarm trigger.

This is going on the idea that a thief will 100% check the tailgate handle before proceeding in the extra step of punching through with a screwdriver.
What we want to happen (if a thief) pulls the handle when it is locked, is the alarm to sound and they move on and not proceed any further.
So, it boils down to testing the trigger timing from the Hood Ajar circuit.

I see neighbors all the time posting RING video of thieves checking car doors, pulling the handle looking for an easy target (Access), I am quite sure with every taillight stolen this was their FIRST step.

So, need to open the panel to investigate what moves in this part when the tailgate is locked.
The diagrams from the manual are not much in detail on that question.

Here is a Install Video for Tailgate Storage Box:
Scroll to approx 6:30 in the video it shows the actuation of the tailgate release mechanism but note this is (unlocked) operation.
Just to give a general idea of how it operates.

USA Ranger Tailgate Storage Install Video (youtube.com)

 

[WOADKIL]

Just an idea: Remove the external tailgate latch and replace with a nice solidly secured decorative plate. Attach a solenoid to the tailgate latch mechanism, just like the old school low riders had to open the doors when they shaved the door handle off? A switch on the dash unlocks/unlatches the tailgate.

Enjoy!

 

[airline tech]

Just an idea: Remove the external tailgate latch and replace with a nice solidly secured decorative plate. Attach a solenoid to the tailgate latch mechanism, just like the old school low riders had to open the doors when they shaved the door handle off? A switch on the dash unlocks/unlatches the tailgate.

Enjoy!

So, a (Rotating Arm) solenoid to unlatch it from the lock (hooks) X2 - Unlock
and
A plunger solenoid to push the tailgate open far enough for it to freefall down or at least far enough away from the latches.
And positive feature for the tailgate damper some of us already have installed.
Might have to add a weight in the top half of the gate to give it some momentum downwards.
Delete the handle and rods - Hmm

 

[Danager]

The Factory Alarm uses the Door Ajar circuit, so the Door or Hood has to be opened to trigger.
I tested mine when I first got the truck.

Lock the truck with window down, take keys away from truck and wait (20 seconds or longer - preferably over a minute.
Reach in and using interior handle, open the door - after a 12-second delay the alarm will sound.

Alternate Way:
Lock the doors, take FOB / Keys away from the truck, wait 20 seconds to 1 minute.
And use the Key Blade (ONLY) to unlock the door, FOB not near the truck.
From the exterior handle - open the door - after a 12-second delay the Alarm will sound.

Alternate Way - Lariat (Passive Entry)
Lock the doors and use the (Key Blade) to unlock the door.
If you have the Lariat with the (Passive Entry) grab the exterior handle on the outside of the handle and pull it to open the door - After a 12-Second delay the Alarm will sound.
Basically, you do not want the (Handle) to sense your hand behind the handle (generating- the electronic unlock)

So, a handle check will not set off the alarm, it takes the door or hood to be opened (Door Ajar) to trigger the alarm.

What Bsthroop did was extend the Hood Ajar (Hood Opened) circuit back to the Tailgate.

What we need to do - To get a Handle Check on the Tailgate, tied in, is to find a spot on the latch / handle mechanism to mount a (Proximity Sensor) that will detect movement.

The CAD design comment was a driving force in our new option (Dipstick) aka Fitzstick

It will serve the same function as the external (Microswitch) that Bsthrrop has installed, only moving and modifying his solution some.
This is where we will need to open up the cover and look at the mechanics inner workings of the handle and latches.
Compare Locked - Operation to Unlocked Operation of the handle.
What exactly does not move when locked and what moves?

So, when locked - place a proximity sensor on any part of the mechanism that moves (Handle Check)

The Hurdles to Overcome:

The alarm activates with a 12-Second delay.
So, a quick handle check (MAY NOT) trigger the alarm, as it would be a brief pull and release hey its locked.----Get the screwdriver.

1. Find a spot for mounting a Proximity Sensor - Handle Movement (When - Locked)
Once a spot is found, that will work, find a way to mount in possibly (3D Printed) mounting block for the sensor.

2. Check operation for the input trigger, will a momentary handle check on the Tailgate, actually trigger the alarm (Less than 12-seconds) OR does it have to see a constant (Proximity Away) for 12-Seconds then trigger the alarm. (This is the main factor for proper operation)
Sure, you can hold the handle out for 12-seconds and the alarm will trigger, but that is not going to help in resolving this issue.

3. Wiring is simple, the Hood Ajar Switch is just 2-wires, Power & Ground
The Hood Ajar Switch is a (NC) Normally Closed switch, so when the hood is opened the Ground is broken, which triggers the IPC message and if armed the Alarm.
It uses body ground, and its power source comes from the BCM.

So, for a wire run, it will only need (1) wire to tap into the Hood Ajar switch and (1) wire to a body ground anywhere along the frame.
I am sure this is how @ Bsthroop wired his setup.

One issue here:

“3. Wiring is simple, the Hood Ajar Switch is just 2-wires, Power & Ground
The Hood Ajar Switch is a (NC) Normally Closed switch, so when the hood is opened the Ground is broken, which triggers the IPC message and if armed the Alarm.
It uses body ground, and its power source comes from the BCM.

So, for a wire run, it will only need (1) wire to tap into the Hood Ajar switch and (1) wire to a body ground anywhere along the frame.
I am sure this is how @ Bsthroop wired his setup”

If it is a NC system, and you are tapping into it, you need the new switch to create a loop. Running two wires will be necessary.
The rationale for this being:
The hood switch will continue to send a ground if it remains closed.


Having installed somewhere in the thousands of security or remote starter systems over the duration of my career, I have added my share of sensors and solenoids.
I believe a mag switch is the best option. For this. A good one is relatively inexpensive. Finding one that is rated for AND can stand up to the elements yet small enough is the trick.

I would avoid the popper installation. It takes a lot of force to open the latches. When installing aftermarket systems, you are left with few good options to connect to. The mechanical interface you create is nothing compared to what the OE will do. A failed door popper is less of an issue because you have door #2. If your tailgate popper fails, you have to get into the bed and then inside the tailgate.
The popper is possible. Probably relatively easy. I would caution against the reliability.

 

[kendive]

True , that’s the issue, even when locked , a screwdriver and 30 seconds to 1 minute, they have the tailgate opened.
A cordless drill and a nut driver bit and 30 seconds to 1 minute more both taillight assemblies are out and wiring is cut with dykes if they are nice they will only disconnect the connectors saving the wire harness without damage.

Wow that's crazy. I have a tri fold tonneau cover on so they would have to bust that open and I always park in the garage.

I know this was an issue with the F150's also...

Good luck out there.

 

[got3fords]

They still have to open the gate and get in the bed of the truck to get to that...

I know, but kendive asked how they were "steeling the gate".

 

[airline tech]

I played with it some today, opened the hood and manually set the latch back to closed.
Locked & Armed the Alarm
Popped the Latch and Alarm Immediately triggered, reset the latch and it did not silent.

Also, tried leaving driver's window down, hood closed - Locked and Armed the Alarm
Reached in and pulled the Hood Release - Alarm Immediately Triggered, reset hood to lock and it did not silent.

Also, tried leaving driver's window down, Locked and Armed the Alarm
Reached in and opened door with interior handle, Chime sounds on IPC, getting louder and faster for 12-seconds then Alarm Triggered, closing the door did not silence.

So, this confirms that a Tailgate Handle sensor (for movement) will work in triggering the Alarm.

I also looked at the Hood Latch (Switch) verified it is a microswitch. just like Bsthroop installed on the tailgate.
It is a NO - Normally Open Switch

I also opened the tailgate and took a quick video of operation.

Sequence

1st - Is Tailgate Handle in Locked Position (Movement)
2nd - Is hitting the Unlock button on the FOB, note the actuator arm that swings out to allow full movement. This is the arm that gets moved with a screwdriver to unlock the tailgate.
3rd - Is Tailgate Handle in Unlocked Position (Movement)

So possible placement for a Prox Sensor / Mag Switch / Reed Switch will be on the arm with the white label on it or the leg off the back of the handle that is actuating it.

I am thinking the best solution is to mount a block on the back side of the panel (Cover) and mount the wired side of the switch, so it lines up with the top of the lever (labeled) and have the other half of the switch mounted on the lever.

I have done some research and the F-150 use to have a Tailgate Ajar switch in this handle assembly, but due to common issues with false indications they removed it.
But with the little research I have done, it appears that this was a separate indication generated to the IPC from the BCM.
The F-150 BCM, however was still programed for it, just the wiring and switch was removed.

So, with that said, there may be a possibility. we may have an open port on the BCM to tap into the circuit and find the right HEX Code to change to activate it.
It all depends on the internal microcontroller that controls the Door Ajar circuit, is there an active pin that connects internally to one of (4) Micro's as they are separated out for the Doors and Hood.
It's a LONG shot here but a possibility.

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