SSM 49264 - Climate Control Temperature Will Not Adjust With Clicking/Snapping Noise From The Dash

[diesel924]

The other noteworthy "time bomb" albeit an inexpensive fix should one be a DIY is the EGR system failures, either a bad design or cheap component, a bit of both IMO. In the US market Ford is only required to warrant the EGR system for 24mo/24k miles, so you can read on this site how many owners have experienced problems. This after I recollect Ford touting some yrs back their new and improved EGR design, maybe the design has been improved but seems reliability took a step backwards.

But Ford certainly isn't alone in saddling the customer with costs associated with faulty designs, hence in the US the proliferation of class action law suits.

Where are you getting the idea that the EGR system is only warrantied for 24/24K? That's not even as long as the bumper to bumper warranty. My wife's 2020 Escape lost it's EGR cooler at 50,000 miles and it was warrantied without question.

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[Muffin1]

Where are you getting the idea that the EGR system is only warrantied for 24/24K? That's not even as long as the bumper to bumper warranty. My wife's 2020 Escape lost it's EGR cooler at 50,000 miles and it was warrantied without question.

It shows it here as not listed under the '8 year' so from what i'm reading it falls under the '24'
With your wifes car could there have been a recall or customer satisfaction campaign??
BTW i looked up for 2019 MY that's what i have, maybe Ford changed it for '20 MY.

The warranty coverage period for: • The emissions defects warranty coverage period for passenger cars and light duty trucks (applies to vehicles up to 8,500 pound GVWR) is as follows: — 8 years or 80,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for catalytic converters, electronic emissions control unit, and onboard emissions diagnostic devices, including the Battery Energy Control Module (BECM). — 2 years or 24,000 miles (whichever occurs first) for all other covered parts. (Note: Ford’s 3-year, 36,000-mile bumper-to-bumper coverage, as described above, surpasses this mandatory federal coverage.) • Heavy duty vehicles (applies to trucks over 8,500 pounds GVWR up to 19,500 pounds GVWR)

 

[Devil6]

The other noteworthy "time bomb" albeit an inexpensive fix should one be a DIY is the EGR system failures, either a bad design or cheap component, a bit of both IMO. In the US market Ford is only required to warrant the EGR system for 24mo/24k miles, so you can read on this site how many owners have experienced problems. This after I recollect Ford touting some yrs back their new and improved EGR design, maybe the design has been improved but seems reliability took a step backwards.

But Ford certainly isn't alone in saddling the customer with costs associated with faulty designs, hence in the US the proliferation of class action law suits.

I learned that this “modern” engine had an EGR after the purchase. Pretty disappointing.

The rear sliding window is another one if the locking clip breaks.

I guess the only thing left to learn is that there is a rear mounted timing belt with an internal water pump. I can only hope. At least I didn’t get taken for chrome cladding.

When researching this or newer Rangers (or any vehicle really) it would have been helpful if any of the media would have pointed out anything that an owner should know about the the vehicle like the EGR or the fact that Ford installed a bad component in earlier Rangers and is abandoning owners.

 

[TJMarchand]

After thousands of miles with this problem and dropping my truck off 5+ times, 2 a/c recharges, one actuator replacement the dealer finally will replace the HVAC box for a total of $1800 in September. Going to call Ford corporate again and ask if they can help me price wise since I'm out of warranty and have been having this issue for over a year.

 

[Devil6]

Every time a Land Rover, Range Rover, Jaguar, Lancia, or Fiat goes by with the windows up, I get a little bit more upset at Ford.

 

[MarkR]

Add me to the list.

 

[MarkR]

thanks to dmeyer302 I Used his video and removed the actuator. Replaced with a new one. I’ll sell it before I pay over a grand for Ford to remove the dash. It’s been a good truck but this major problem has me thinking about moving on

 

[Racket]

Add me to the list.

Here's a bump. Some time this week my 2019 decided the driver's side shall not receive AC.

41K miles.... but I bought the ESP prior to the factory warranty running out. Coming from industries that sold ESPs as a revenue item and being a pro-consumer sales rep when suggesting them (or not) I feel like I saw this coming after considering the complexity of this truck.

Whether the transmission or LED headlights or any other number of components crap out it just paid for itself.

 

[Swede726]

I just bought a 2020 Supercrew Sport with 20k on it with an 11-2019 build date and this heater box issue has me worried. The truck is Ford Gold CPO for 1 year.

How can I get it to fail under warranty? If I cycle the flaps on the heater box constantly all winter do you think it will fail? What's the average miles these fail?

 

[Frenchy]

If it hasn't filled already it will be at random. It may be in a year and maybe in 3 years it may be in 20 mi it may be 20,000 mi. I know in my 2019 it happened right about 34,000 mi and I still had it under warranty thanks to time.

 

[VegasP11]

Here's a bump. Some time this week my 2019 decided the driver's side shall not receive AC.

41K miles.... but I bought the ESP prior to the factory warranty running out. Coming from industries that sold ESPs as a revenue item and being a pro-consumer sales rep when suggesting them (or not) I feel like I saw this coming after considering the complexity of this truck.

Whether the transmission or LED headlights or any other number of components crap out it just paid for itself.

This just happened to me last week. Not looking forward to this repair bill.

 

[Racket]

I just bought a 2020 Supercrew Sport with 20k on it with an 11-2019 build date and this heater box issue has me worried. The truck is Ford Gold CPO for 1 year.

How can I get it to fail under warranty? If I cycle the flaps on the heater box constantly all winter do you think it will fail? What's the average miles these fail?

I'd suggest getting the extended service. You're on the threshold of it being available (while under the OEM warranty).

 

[Swede726]

I'd suggest getting the extended service. You're on the threshold of it being available (while under the OEM warranty).

I contacted one of the online ford dealers recommended here that sells the warranties for a good price. They told me I couldn't add it since I currently have a Ford Gold CPO warranty that expires May 2024. So is it possible when that expires? That gold cpo also extended the factory power train warranty for 7 years 100k. I wonder if that's the issue.

 

[Racket]

I contacted one of the online ford dealers recommended here that sells the warranties for a good price. They told me I couldn't add it since I currently have a Ford Gold CPO warranty that expires May 2024. So is it possible when that expires? That gold cpo also extended the factory power train warranty for 7 years 100k. I wonder if that's the issue.

I'm guessing you spoke to Granger Ford and you aren't in California? Zach@granger is pretty knowledgeable and they've sold a lot of Ford ESPs to forum members - including me. I don't know what the requirements are or if you are part of a different warranty system.
http://www.grangerfordextendedwarranty.com/

 

[quangdog]

So this has now happened on my truck. Just over 41k miles on it, and just past 41 months of ownership, so I don't believe I can even purchase an extended warranty / service plan in the first place... but even if I could, I'm still not sure I would. The video back on like page 6 of this thread looks like a great first step - even if it's a band-aid... swapping out that blend door actuator once a year at $60/part I'll still save money (even if I keep the truck 10 more years) over trying to buy a warranty or paying out of pocket to have the entire box replaced with dash removal etc.

I'm frustrated about this - I really don't want to have the dash out at all because it's a near guarantee that things will rattle afterwards... stuff will get broken, things will not be re-installed exactly as they were, etc. I'm not afraid to do the whole dash-out job myself, but I'm going to try swapping just the actuator first.

For anyone who has swapped the actuator: how much time did that buy? Have you had to replace it again?

And for anyone looking for part numbers: AB3Z19E616B is the actuator that controls the hot/cold blend on the driver side.

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