Search results

2.3% at 6,000 miles would not concern me.

Small claims court seems to be a good option at this point.

Boy do I wish I had this truck in my shop. This set of codes looks very interesting. I have Forscan but I never really use it, all my troubleshooting is done with IDS/FDRS. If I had it in my shop, I would erase the codes (after noting them) and do a key-off-engine-off test. Hopefully Forscan has...

With those codes I would be running the harness visually and by feel everywhere that engine R+R would require disconnecting or mving aside a harness. Don't forget the bellhousing area, that's a favorite place for a butcher to sandwich wires on installation.

Once a year I take the shield off the top of the radiator and clean the leaves and junk between the condensor and the radiator. I use a shop vac with a length of skinny (5/8"?) tubing duct taped to the hose to suck out all the crap in there. If you look in the front of the grill it will look...

If you look in the service manual under 'Reference Values', the normal LTFT is a whopping -20 to +20%. STFT are -10 to +10%. What is the symptom they are trying to fix? Is it poor mileage? If the truck is NOT throwing a check engine light, what is the chief complaint?

Do you have repair orders you could attach?

The drain plugs for the trucks in NA have one-time-use crush washers. No sealer is used. My wife's Escape uses sealer on the PTU (basically a transfer case) so maybe Australia uses the same set up?

Ah, I see that now.

Well he says he is getting a CEL. Now there are no codes? Are there no codes because they were erased?

What is the actual P-code it is throwing?

You don't have an aluminum magnet?

If you want to do it right, yes. You're living in the rust belt, just like me. Those rotors are going to be shot.

It looks like the Tremor has removeable LBJ's but the other 4X4's don't, the whole control arm has to be replaced.

Alldata says they are serviceable without replacing the arm. I'm not at work so I can't look at the factory manual.

Or turn a $60 job into a $2,000 job.

I change a lot of seat covers on fire trucks, I used to use hog rings but removing them is a pain. Finally I started using zip-ties, specifically black Lawson heavy duty ones. Never had one fail and subsequent seat pad and cover replacement are much easier.

I don't get it.

I've got a cracked right side, I'd be interested in fit + finish on these aftermarket ones. If they look exactly the same and the BLIS module bolts in and is still watertight I'd be down to buy one.

Last one I found was on a 23 F-250, same deal as yours. Very difficult to locate. What I ended up using was a coworker with a wide open garden hose on the outside and me on my back on the inside with a thermal imager. I finally found a grommet with a bad seal on the firewall. Leaks are a bee-atch.