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S&B cold air intake

PresFinch2

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Just got off the phone with S&B and it seems like a new CAI will be on the way around mid February. Only $350 compared to Mishimoto or Roush, seems like it’ll be a little better considering that S&B makes pretty good products. Now if it’ll actually make “power” differences is a different story
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Aonarch

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These intakes are pretty much all the time.

You will see minimal, if any gains.

If you want a performance bump and retain the factory warranty, the Ford Performance tune is your best bet.

If you don't care, I like Livernois Motorsports with a downpipe.
 


Grumpaw

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Ranger already comes with a cold air intake....new fancy ones get their air from the same place, the snorkel.
Filter that comes factory holds and traps more "stuff" than any of the ice cream cone shaped filters.
BUT...you can't open your hood and show everyone your "purdy filter and housing," or the fancy "red snorkel".
Just my 2 cents, but I saved $348.98. :clap:
 
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PresFinch2

PresFinch2

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Ranger already comes with a cold air intake....new fancy ones get their air from the same place, the snorkel.
Filter that comes factory holds and traps more "stuff" than any of the ice cream cone shaped filters.
BUT...you can't open your hood and show everyone your "purdy filter and housing," or the fancy "red snorkel".
Just my 2 cents, but I saved $348.98. :clap:
Yeah I don’t think my butt dyno would really tell much of a difference. I’m just curious if installing the ford tune or any tune would actually make something like a CAI actually useful
 

awd.nv

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Ok, I was a good forum member and searched. Has anyone tested this CAI? I have an AEM dry filter in there now but can't help but think the S&B design would actually make a little difference with a tuned truck. Think lowered33 (spell?) showed the Roush one made almost 10rwhp on a stock truck?

"Power" Mods:
Ford tune
Mishi Intercooler and pipes
Downpipe

I wont lie, I think I would be happy if all it did was give me more turbo sounds lol This is cheaper than a RR too :LOL:
 

LB'sTremor

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My logic keeps going to both the S&B and mish design of eliminating the radius's of the factory snorkel (air direct to the filter) gotta be better than anything else out there (even the rousch because it uses the original snorkel) and give at least a minor boost

But that's just me there is a mish listed in the for sale
The Mish is nice, but the S&B is prettier and cheaper and has the removable front panel (which I would think defeats the Cold Air mode but would make more air available)
I would not mind a bit of turbo whistle myself!

LB
 
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DukeCanBuildit

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Ok, I was a good forum member and searched. Has anyone tested this CAI? I have an AEM dry filter in there now but can't help but think the S&B design would actually make a little difference with a tuned truck. Think lowered33 (spell?) showed the Roush one made almost 10rwhp on a stock truck?

"Power" Mods:
Ford tune
Mishi Intercooler and pipes
Downpipe

I wont lie, I think I would be happy if all it did was give me more turbo sounds lol This is cheaper than a RR too :LOL:
My logic keeps going to both the S&B and mish design of eliminating the radius's of the factory snorkel (air direct to the filter) gotta be better than anything else out there (even the rousch because it uses the original snorkel) and give at least a minor boost

But that's just me there is a mish listed in the for sale
The Mish is nice, but the S&B is prettier and cheaper and has the removable front panel (which I would think defeats the Cold Air mode but would make more air available)
I would not mind a bit of turbo whistle myself!

LB
You gotta love the extra sound. My Roush CAI does just that and I agree about the original snorkel so I installed the aFe, which is only slightly better.

That’s interesting to know about the 10 extra horses. I got two different stickers with it so I’m sure it’s pushing 12. :wink:
 

Dereku

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These name brand intakes all do something but its typically the midrange bump that we all like. As far as max power, you would be lucky to gain 2hp. But you might gain 10hp at 3k rpm. But that is where the butt dyno feels the difference.
 

awd.nv

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Yeah I think we all feel the torque with the 2.3L especially.

The S&B CAI does seem to have a literal straight shot to the filter which is what I like most. What I don't like about the lower OEM filter box is that it has a small opening. It literally looks like a smaller diameter than the piping going into the throttle body so it makes sense it could technically starve the engine at higher RPM. I never really cared till recently having had the mods done.

I do have the AFE scoop and the Velossa big mouth scoop (in grill one), I know some claimed to get MPG gains with them but I never did.
 

Dereku

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Yeah I think we all feel the torque with the 2.3L especially.

The S&B CAI does seem to have a literal straight shot to the filter which is what I like most. What I don't like about the lower OEM filter box is that it has a small opening. It literally looks like a smaller diameter than the piping going into the throttle body so it makes sense it could technically starve the engine at higher RPM. I never really cared till recently having had the mods done.

I do have the AFE scoop and the Velossa big mouth scoop (in grill one), I know some claimed to get MPG gains with them but I never did.
Do you have a drop in filter too? I dont think my mpg actually went up but it requires less effort to keep my average up. I dont have to hyper mile to maintain over 23 mpg average.
 

Nomad

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All,

I’m going to do my best to summarize what I’ve learned on this forum as well as tinkering with a former car of mine (2004 Cobra Mustang). With that in mind, please take everything I say with a grain of salt, as I am merely trying to pay it forward.

First and foremost, with any of these modifications, what are your goals for the truck? Performance (HP/TQ)? Sound (Whoosh/Turbo Blow Off)? Efficiency (MPG/Filtering ability)? Looks (Wow factor)? The general “want” to spend money (most of us on this forum can appreciate this one)? Other?

Next, things to consider:

The Basics: Stock vs. Aftermarket

FeatureStock IntakeAftermarket CAI
Power GainBaseline+5ish to +7ish HP (Standalone)
SoundQuietLouder Turbo Spool/BOV
FilterPaper (Throw away)Reusable (Washable/Cleanable)
Filtration EfficiencyHighest (99%+)High (Less than 99%)
MPG (Fuel Economy)Baseline+/- 1 MPG (Habit Dependent)
ThrottleStandardSharper


Supplemental Information:

New vs. Used: The Smart Money
  • New ($340 – $550): Comes with a warranty and every single bolt. Best for those who want "peace of mind."
  • Used ($150 – $275): Best value (depending). Since it’s plastic/metal piping, used is potentially just as good as new. (Note: If buying used, budget $50 for a brand-new filter so you start fresh.)
The "Stacking" Effect: Unlocking 50+ HP
  • A CAI is only a "stage 1" mod. To get the most out of your money, you need to address the other bottlenecks in the 2.3L engine (to include but not limited to):
  • CAI + Exhaust: Lets the engine breathe in and out.
  • Charge Pipes: Improved airflow, increased durability, and better boost pressure resistance over the stock pipes
  • Ported/Aftermarket Throttle Body: Widens the "mouth" of the engine to increase air velocity and remove the final intake restriction.
  • The Tune (Vital): This is the "brain." A tune tells the truck how to actually use the extra air.
  • Standalone Gain: ~8 HP; Stacked Gain (Intake + Exhaust + Tune): +50 to +80 HP
Filtration Reality: What You Need to Know

When you increase airflow, the "holes" in the filter media are generally larger. While “reputable” brands (S&B, K&N, AFE, etc.) maintain high standards, there is a slight trade-off (generally speaking):
  • Stock Paper: Offers the best protection against the finest dust particles. Best for those in extremely dusty/desert environments.
  • Aftermarket "Oiled" Gauze: Offers the best flow (arguably). The oil "tacks" onto dirt particles. If over-oiled, it can sometimes foul sensors; if under-oiled, filtration drops.
  • Aftermarket "Dry" Synthetic: The best middle ground (again, arguably). No oil to worry about, easier to clean, and usually has better filtration efficiency than oiled filters.
Rule of Thumb: Stick to factory setup vs aftermarket for dusty environments (or longevity of the vehicle) as less than optimal filtration that can lead to "dusting" the turbocharger blades over time (wear/breakdown).


Disclaimer: (my “get out jail free” card) Please note that this post is meant to merely capture the core concepts of upgrading your Ranger's intake/CAI system. It is not meant to be all-encompassing, nor does it take every single facet, variable, or mechanical nuance into account. Every build and driving environment is unique, so always do your own research before turning wrenches!


Hope this helps,
NOMAD
 
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awd.nv

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Do you have a drop in filter too? I dont think my mpg actually went up but it requires less effort to keep my average up. I dont have to hyper mile to maintain over 23 mpg average.
Yeah I have tried the K&N, AEM dry (in now) and WIX oem filter. Honestly, they all feel the same even with the tune.

I know our motors are torque biased, the top end got a lot better with the tune but just looking at the restriction of the Inlet into the lower air box has me curious if the S&B or similar really (mishi?) saw decent gains. I also just put 76 91 gas in the truck rather than cheaper Smiths 91. My neighbor was telling me at Smiths he puts 89 because 87 felt funny in his Tundra so I am curious how that will go.

Being responsible unlike my teens, I did cooling first, Mish reported something like 14rwhp/14rwtq with their intercooler and pipes (did the rad too). Motor was all stock besides those scoops at that point, even wix filter, throttle response got maybe a little better but nothing crazy.

The downpipe was next and wow that surprised me. Turbo spooled way better even though stock tune. Then the tune which really fixed the lazy top end.

At this point, just trying to set expectations for the S&B as I will probably eventually order it. Computer sales have been kinda meh this year so I am being conservative on play spending.....my kids hockey ain't cheap lol

Other funny observation was how temp controlled the truck is that a massive radiator like the Mishi one didnt really change temps a whole lot. The one area I see the biggest temp drop is when going downhill towing, temps will hit 170F in the summer before the thermostat closes but regular driving will hang out around 200-210F in the summer 100F days. Wish an electric fan was an easy mod.
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