Cold Air Intake Comparisons?

DROZ23

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https://fb.watch/qgA78zfnBl/ and they can really bugger up your MAPT
Hmm. the oil is the problem. It is likely damaged filter or the more is better approach with the oil application. That is the worst thing you could do. I ran a K&N for 200k miles on my old Ranger. Fine. I didn't cleaning it for 30K miles once. I lived in the desert too. Fine. New cars I would be more cautions bc they have tighter tolerance's. K&N has one of the worst filtration reports of any filter.
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Loweredon33s

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Hmm. the oil is the problem. It is likely damaged filter or the more is better approach with the oil application. That is the worst thing you could do. I ran a K&N for 200k miles on my old Ranger. Fine. I didn't cleaning it for 30K miles once. I lived in the desert too. Fine. New cars I would be more cautions bc they have tighter tolerance's. K&N has one of the worst filtration reports of any filter.
Oil? What is oil doing?
 

Loweredon33s

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Wrong post location. It was for a different person. a video of a dirty MAF from a K&N. sorry.
Rangers do not have MAF sensors. This was my point earlier about that video being completely irrelevant.
 

DROZ23

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Rangers do not have MAF sensors. This was my point earlier about that video being completely irrelevant.
word. didn't see that part. there some kind of sensor. probably intake psi on the tube.
 


Loweredon33s

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word. didn't see that part. there some kind of sensor. probably intake psi on the tube.
Temperature sensor.

This is the problem with videos like these, people jump to conclusions about problems that do not exist for other platforms.

Just because it’s a problem on a naturally aspirated Hemi v8 with a MAF sensor doesn’t mean it’s even a factor in a Ranger with a speed density/load based engine management.

This is the same reason people get all mad about how air intake’s don’t work (because they don’t on certain vehicles with certain engine management)

Or how Cold air is king and intake heat will kill power (it definitely does on N/A engines and some poorly intercooled turbo systems)

Or how a blow off valve can cause your engine to run richer than with a diverter valve (it definitely will on certain types of engine management)

All are
common misunderstandings about how one engine operating system and design functions vs another one.

I’m not going off on you, I’m just laying down a bunch of examples to point out why “one size never fits all” when it comes to vehicle performance every platform has different strengths and weaknesses because of design.

These guys who keep saying that the stock air box is superior are only guessing from their own experience or from what others tell them, at higher power levels and demands a 2”x 2” hole in a cold box won’t provide nearly as much potential as a much bigger hole in a possibly warmer box, or with no box at all.
Just like air filter oil won’t do anything to a MAF sensor that none of us even have in the first place.
 

LawnMM

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Temperature sensor.

This is the problem with videos like these, people jump to conclusions about problems that do not exist for other platforms.

Just because it’s a problem on a naturally aspirated Hemi v8 with a MAF sensor doesn’t mean it’s even a factor in a Ranger with a speed density/load based engine management.

This is the same reason people get all mad about how air intake’s don’t work (because they don’t on certain vehicles with certain engine management)

Or how Cold air is king and intake heat will kill power (it definitely does on N/A engines and some poorly intercooled turbo systems)

Or how a blow off valve can cause your engine to run richer than with a diverter valve (it definitely will on certain types of engine management)

All are
common misunderstandings about how one engine operating system and design functions vs another one.

I’m not going off on you, I’m just laying down a bunch of examples to point out why “one size never fits all” when it comes to vehicle performance every platform has different strengths and weaknesses because of design.

These guys who keep saying that the stock air box is superior are only guessing from their own experience or from what others tell them, at higher power levels and demands a 2”x 2” hole in a cold box won’t provide nearly as much potential as a much bigger hole in a possibly warmer box, or with no box at all.
Just like air filter oil won’t do anything to a MAF sensor that none of us even have in the first place.
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DROZ23

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Temperature sensor.

This is the problem with videos like these, people jump to conclusions about problems that do not exist for other platforms.

Just because it’s a problem on a naturally aspirated Hemi v8 with a MAF sensor doesn’t mean it’s even a factor in a Ranger with a speed density/load based engine management.

This is the same reason people get all mad about how air intake’s don’t work (because they don’t on certain vehicles with certain engine management)

Or how Cold air is king and intake heat will kill power (it definitely does on N/A engines and some poorly intercooled turbo systems)

Or how a blow off valve can cause your engine to run richer than with a diverter valve (it definitely will on certain types of engine management)

All are
common misunderstandings about how one engine operating system and design functions vs another one.

I’m not going off on you, I’m just laying down a bunch of examples to point out why “one size never fits all” when it comes to vehicle performance every platform has different strengths and weaknesses because of design.

These guys who keep saying that the stock air box is superior are only guessing from their own experience or from what others tell them, at higher power levels and demands a 2”x 2” hole in a cold box won’t provide nearly as much potential as a much bigger hole in a possibly warmer box, or with no box at all.
Just like air filter oil won’t do anything to a MAF sensor that none of us even have in the first place.
Temp Sensor. I thought that would be further back. Good to know.

That is the Rabbit hole we go down and is the grey area companies use to shill their gear. They don't always overtly lie to people, they use omissions to get you to think that something they sell will help you. Do I need a $450 Mishimoto intake to run a Ford Performance tune. Uuuuuh no! not really, but it could help a LITTLE.

I get it man. There is sparse information to confirm, at what point, a engine could really use what upgrade. Some are obvious and most are not.

That is how you get "the oils and dirt destroyed my MAF and all that is going into the intake stories" well yeah, you have a low filtration system on a stock filter design. If you used a OEM filter that is doubled in surface area, you would get more flow potential and max filtration unlike a K&N in factory form.
 

Loweredon33s

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Temp Sensor. I thought that would be further back. Good to know.

That is the Rabbit hole we go down and is the grey area companies use to shill their gear. They don't always overtly lie to people, they use omissions to get you to think that something they sell will help you. Do I need a $450 Mishimoto intake to run a Ford Performance tune. Uuuuuh no! not really, but it could help a LITTLE.

I get it man. There is sparse information to confirm, at what point, a engine could really use what upgrade. Some are obvious and most are not.

That is how you get "the oils and dirt destroyed my MAF and all that is going into the intake stories" well yeah, you have a low filtration system on a stock filter design. If you used a OEM filter that is doubled in surface area, you would get more flow potential and max filtration unlike a K&N in factory form.
To get technical there is an IAT1 (intake temperature before the turbo) and then IAT2 (cold side of the intercooler) it is a dual sensor that reads pressure as well as temperature. After that there is another one of those in the intake manifold. Generally speaking with or without a tune most intakes add about 8-15hp, as the modifications increase and tuning becomes more aggressive then the intake design becomes more important in order to support the power.
 

DROZ23

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To get technical there is an IAT1 (intake temperature before the turbo) and then IAT2 (cold side of the intercooler) it is a dual sensor that reads pressure as well as temperature. After that there is another one of those in the intake manifold. Generally speaking with or without a tune most intakes add about 8-15hp, as the modifications increase and tuning becomes more aggressive then the intake design becomes more important in order to support the power.
I have a obd ii BT with some software to monitor the air. I only ever get one of the reading and I am almost certain it is before Turbo. Just ran a test with the Intake Sealed off and with it open, both cold start at idle, and warm start at idle, and at speed.

With intake Lid Sealed
Ambient between 46 and 48 F. Closed temps read 55-59F at speeds between 45-65mph. idle was 64-66F engine was only running 10 mins for the idle test.

Open intake (Lid off)
Ambient between 44-46F. Open intake temps read 55-57F at speed 40-75mph. Idle was 86-91 before driving and with the warm motor start(had driving for 30 min straight). Temps after driving, then to idle( Like stop light) around 64-70.


Not a perfect test but it was not as dramatic as I thought. today is cool air temp 46F. First thought is summer driving might be better sealed, if just running around town at lower speeds. However on the Highways I don't see much advantage of a Closed Intake. If it can performs like a true CAI and create induction pressure I see some benefit. Maybe. the turbo is going to pull air regardless. Short of that, OPEN or CLOSED doesn't seem to matter as you mentioned.

I got some more tests do for fun but I am pretty confident from what I read and tested. On to Intercoolers now. I expect some really benefits over the stock design.
 

Loweredon33s

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I have a obd ii BT with some software to monitor the air. I only ever get one of the reading and I am almost certain it is before Turbo. Just ran a test with the Intake Sealed off and with it open, both cold start at idle, and warm start at idle, and at speed.

With intake Lid Sealed
Ambient between 46 and 48 F. Closed temps read 55-59F at speeds between 45-65mph. idle was 64-66F engine was only running 10 mins for the idle test.

Open intake (Lid off)
Ambient between 44-46F. Open intake temps read 55-57F at speed 40-75mph. Idle was 86-91 before driving and with the warm motor start(had driving for 30 min straight). Temps after driving, then to idle( Like stop light) around 64-70.


Not a perfect test but it was not as dramatic as I thought. today is cool air temp 46F. First thought is summer driving might be better sealed, if just running around town at lower speeds. However on the Highways I don't see much advantage of a Closed Intake. If it can performs like a true CAI and create induction pressure I see some benefit. Maybe. the turbo is going to pull air regardless. Short of that, OPEN or CLOSED doesn't seem to matter as you mentioned.

I got some more tests do for fun but I am pretty confident from what I read and tested. On to Intercoolers now. I expect some really benefits over the stock design.
I’m the day I built the whale dick intake I threw my Injen back on to drive home on. I didn’t install the heat shield and wound up stuck in heavy traffic on an almost 100 degree day. Watching the iat I saw Intake temperatures near 150 plus. Guess what, it definitely affected power and response… in traffic… once moving it was totally fine. I don’t recommend no heat shield at all because it is just plain stupid but…. An open intake is not a big deal especially with a decent heat shield installed.
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